Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

I found my problem a little while ago...
Could someone please point me to the proper hall sensors for a BMC V4 pleeease :) whether or not any generic sensor will work or not is beyond me.
I just know I'll need a new one.

I guess it's time for me to go dig around a bmc thread. On brighter news though I now have front and rear brakes. I'm just waiting on a rear disc brake mount so I can fit the 203mm disc. I'm tempted to ride this beast gutless down my local trail and see how it does but I think I'll hold off for now.
 
JtHaas said:
I found my problem a little while ago...
Could someone please point me to the proper hall sensors for a BMC V4 pleeease :) whether or not any generic sensor will work or not is beyond me.
I just know I'll need a new one.

I guess it's time for me to go dig around a bmc thread. On brighter news though I now have front and rear brakes. I'm just waiting on a rear disc brake mount so I can fit the 203mm disc. I'm tempted to ride this beast gutless down my local trail and see how it does but I think I'll hold off for now.

Build is coming along.
 
My rear suspension has some colour removed (think it calls abraded in english) on left side. I have had a little sound from suspension and after putted a little grease between the piston and coil spring the sound is gone. But this should not happened at all should it? Do I have a bad angle between the frames? I have just mounted everything in the middle, with same spacers on both sides. Should I adjust something? See picture...

4CB49CA6-8927-4375-B51E-3C8B357AAC3F.png
 
Swe said:
My rear suspension has some colour removed (think it calls abraded in english) on left side. I have had a little sound from suspension and after putted a little grease between the piston and coil spring the sound is gone. But this should not happened at all should it? Do I have a bad angle between the frames? I have just mounted everything in the middle, with same spacers on both sides. Should I adjust something? See picture...

4CB49CA6-8927-4375-B51E-3C8B357AAC3F.png

Hey Swe,
Coil Shocks don't usually develop squeaking sounds like air shocks tend to but you can usually get a little clue as to what's going on inside the shock from the sound. Whether it's displaced fluid or it's just coming from the mounting points of the shock.
If it feels fine I wouldn't worry about sounds unless they are excessive. Have someone at a local bike shop tune your rear shock for you. They'll either get it nice and dialed for you or tell you it might need some new O-ring or more fluid. Luckily I hear DNM has good some good customer service so if you feel it's a real problem try contacting them if you're not looking to spend money at the bike shop.
 
I would say the sound was from the coil spring grinding against the piston, since it is silent when I putted a little grease where the piston colour was removed. So no problem with oil but what do I know...?

Am I right I should adjust the angle a couple of mm? Even though you would think it should just be in center everything.
 
make sure you have enough preload on the spring. if the spring is not preloaded it could rattle or contact the shock body.. how much suspension sag are you running?
 
Thanks then that is probably the problem! I have not tested yet, but I see the spring is all the way ”out” so there is no pressure on (no pre-load?). I have earlier only tested turning the little blue one for the piston. Found the manual now and there is a smaller red one also that does sonething...
Yes I am not used to suspension bikes :)
 
yes, you would want to have some static compression of the spring to keep it in place on the shock body.. this is done by rotating the spring and spring collar to achieve some tension on the spring and to adjust suspension sag (suspension compression from rider weight). read the suspension owners manual if you have it or get it from the manufacturer website.. you can also test the suspension hydraulic action and adjustment effects by removing the spring from the shock body and then cycle the shock shaft by hand with the spring removed, you should then be able to feel the damping action and effects of adjustments..

Swe said:
Thanks then that is probably the problem! I have not tested yet, but I see the spring is all the way ”out” so there is no pressure on (no pre-load?). I have earlier only tested turning the little blue one for the piston. Found the manual now and there is a smaller red one also that does sonething...
Yes I am not used to suspension bikes :)
 
So after looking online for a tensioner around the main chainring, it seems I am out of luck, as the biggest ones i can find only go up to about 42t. Most stop at 38t. (I have 48t)

So looks like I have to get a custom-made one, anyone with a CNC router machine? I suspect you could make a fair few and sell them and corner the market (lol)... Surprised I havent found any online. I may request one of these brands to make a bigger one, but that would probably take them a year to do?

This all comes about because of running a 7speed up the back on the mighty 500w mxus geared hub.
Over wild terrain the chain will skip off the chain ring when in the highest or lowest range gears - that creates a slight angle.

Most of you guys are running single speed with a tensioner on the rear (like me on my alpha) so you avoid this prob.

Here is a pic of some of the products i have been looking at online.

tensioner.JPG


chainguide.JPG


If you can magically find a larger one that would be awesome - otherwise can anyone see any problems with these. On the beta id use a bb-mount bracket to match these iscg3 or isc5 holes.
 
Lash said:
So after looking online for a tensioner around the main chainring, it seems I am out of luck, as the biggest ones i can find only go up to about 42t. Most stop at 38t. (I have 48t)

So looks like I have to get a custom-made one, anyone with a CNC router machine? I suspect you could make a fair few and sell them and corner the market (lol)... Surprised I havent found any online. I may request one of these brands to make a bigger one, but that would probably take them a year to do?

This all comes about because of running a 7speed up the back on the mighty 500w mxus geared hub.
Over wild terrain the chain will skip off the chain ring when in the highest or lowest range gears - that creates a slight angle.

Most of you guys are running single speed with a tensioner on the rear (like me on my alpha) so you avoid this prob.

Here is a pic of some of the products i have been looking at online.

tensioner.JPG


chainguide.JPG


If you can magically find a larger one that would be awesome - otherwise can anyone see any problems with these. On the beta id use a bb-mount bracket to match these iscg3 or isc5 holes.

using a clutched rear derailleur and or a narrow wide crank chain ring could also help with chain retention..
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
using a clutched rear derailleur and or a narrow wide crank chain ring could also help with chain retention..

Ahh yes I did read about the narrow-wide chain rings, sounded like a gimmick to me, but maybe there is some truth in there?.. From memory i initially steered from the high end derailers purely on cost, but I think also there weren't any (or many) available for 7 speed.

Looking now though I see this is one from SRAM is about the only option https://www.vitalmtb.com/news/press-release/An-Affordable-7-speed-DH-Drivetrain-SRAM-Launches-GX-DH,1315

Reasonable price too for a neat bit of kit compared to what it could be.

If I got this, id have to run it on my freewheel and not the cassette - hopefully ok. (until my next beta which uses a cassette)...

It also has the trigger shifter which sounds like a 'non-negotiable' to use this derailer. which im sure is on the right hand, which usually interferes with the full twist throttle, so id have to use a different throttle of some sort or god forbid a thumb throttle.

Currently i use a twist shifter on the left hand side -its upside down - but the function is great - and allows me to keep my right hand for throttle(full twist) and braking.

Thanks for your input, I think this will definitely be a big help to the chain drop issues. Another thought i had was to buy one of these simple guides and modify it with a longer piece at the top. some bolt, pop rivvets, a piece of allow, some swearing and i might get something to work. Ok for a one off but not ideal going foward.

and for good measure i emailed a mob called "fifty fifty" petitioning them to make a 48t version of their chain guide! so fingers crossed. hehehe.

Single speed is so much easier!
 
So I was mounting my Adaptto Midi-E today when I noticed something was not quite right.
Either the Adaptto controller is not flat or the bottom of my Alpha frame is not flat:
DSC_0948.jpg


I'm going with the latter, but I'm not too concerned as it's pretty sturdy anyway and once the controller is bolted to the frame it might even add a bit of structural rigidity to it. :lol:

Anyone else come across this?

Cheers
 
when the frames are welded up during manufacture there can be some metal distortion from the high temperature welding.. its normal and shouldn't be any structural problem..
 
Cowardlyduck said:
So I was mounting my Adaptto Midi-E today when I noticed something was not quite right.
Either the Adaptto controller is not flat or the bottom of my Alpha frame is not flat:
DSC_0948.jpg


I'm going with the latter, but I'm not too concerned as it's pretty sturdy anyway and once the controller is bolted to the frame it might even add a bit of structural rigidity to it. :lol:

Anyone else come across this?

Cheers

My Alpha was like that. Didn't affect anything, it rode very rigid. You will notice less flex over your Fighter.
 
yeah it's well documented, and it's not an issue. Also you've only bolted down one end so it'll pull in a bit once you tighten down the other end.
Yours is my own chrome one right ? Ribs along the bottom or not ? From memory the earlier ones had a flat bottom of thicker material but no ribs. In the later ones they used ribs for strength and then thinner bottom sheet, which can actually deform and ripple a bit with the heat. But it's still a better love story than twilight :lol:

My fave alpha shot of late:

alpha1.jpg
 
Good to know there's nothing to worry about, thanks guys!

Yeah, this is your old Chrome Alpha Jay so no ribs, just the thicker plate which is a bit tougher to drill through for mounting holes.

I'm surprised they made them at all without the ribs since both the Fighter and Bomber have had them for years now.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
So I was mounting my Adaptto Midi-E today when I noticed something was not quite right.
Either the Adaptto controller is not flat or the bottom of my Alpha frame is not flat:
DSC_0948.jpg


I'm going with the latter, but I'm not too concerned as it's pretty sturdy anyway and once the controller is bolted to the frame it might even add a bit of structural rigidity to it. :lol:

Anyone else come across this?

Cheers

shoulda gotta qulbix
 
NoFanBoiz said:
Cowardlyduck said:
So I was mounting my Adaptto Midi-E today when I noticed something was not quite right.
Either the Adaptto controller is not flat or the bottom of my Alpha frame is not flat:
DSC_0948.jpg


I'm going with the latter, but I'm not too concerned as it's pretty sturdy anyway and once the controller is bolted to the frame it might even add a bit of structural rigidity to it. :lol:

Anyone else come across this?

Cheers

shoulda gotta qulbix

Yah, nothing against the qulbix, just don't like the lower bottom bracket location.
 
Cricket_Swe said:
My frame is also like that Cowardlyduck
Thanks! Yeah good to know I got nothing to worry about.

I'm going to order an 18" tire to go with my 18" MC rim soon. Probably going to go with the SR241.
Does anyone know if the 3.5"or 4" version will fit comfortably on the rear?
I want something a bit fatter than the 3" Duro's I'm used to from my Fighter.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Cricket_Swe said:
My frame is also like that Cowardlyduck
Thanks! Yeah good to know I got nothing to worry about.

I'm going to order an 18" tire to go with my 18" MC rim soon. Probably going to go with the SR241.
Does anyone know if the 3.5"or 4" version will fit comfortably on the rear?
I want something a bit fatter than the 3" Duro's I'm used to from my Fighter.

Cheers

An 3.00-18 SR241 is 3.4 inches wide on a 18x1.40 rim. There is not much room on either side of the swing arm, I am certain a 3.50-18 SR241 will not fit as its closer to 4" wide and needs a minimum of a 1.6" wide rim. The OD of the tire is much larger than the 3.00-18 tire which moves the widest part of the tire closer to the front of the swingarm where spacing narrows and slants inward. A 3.50" wide tire will probably not fit and there is no way the 4.00-18 tire will fit. I had that tire on my old CRF230F and it was very big tire with and OD of around 26" and weighed a lot.
 
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