E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hi,

My Stealth fighter arrived yesterday 😁 took it out for my first ride today felt good but seemed to be lacking power on take off almost sluggish up to around 10mph then it seems to pick up pace quickly, is this how they are or do they just take a few cycles of charges to get the best out of them?
I've got it in competition mode on fast start and maximum watts 3700w battery shows 58v.
Also running it free wheel on a the stand it will show 45mph should this be more as there is no resistance?

Any ideas.

Thanks Matt
 
Mattof37 said:
Hi,

My Stealth fighter arrived yesterday 😁 took it out for my first ride today felt good but seemed to be lacking power on take off almost sluggish up to around 10mph then it seems to pick up pace quickly, is this how they are or do they just take a few cycles of charges to get the best out of them?
I've got it in competition mode on fast start and maximum watts 3700w battery shows 58v.
Also running it free wheel on a the stand it will show 45mph should this be more as there is no resistance?

Any ideas.

Thanks Matt

Under the DC1 adjust limits, there should be a option to select yes or no for "soft start" select no. That should wake it up a little.
 
Thanks for the response. Took it for a good ride today everything was great until I was on my way home approximately 30% power remaining so I used the regain button which made a loud thud in the hub now the hub won't spin , if I turn it off the on again it gets to spin thus then Nothing?? Greatful if anyone got any ideas on this ?
 
Mattof37 said:
Thanks for the response. Took it for a good ride today everything was great until I was on my way home approximately 30% power remaining so I used the regain button which made a loud thud in the hub now the hub won't spin , if I turn it off the on again it gets to spin thus then Nothing?? Greatful if anyone got any ideas on this ?

I have no idea.
 
Mattof37 said:
Thanks for the response. Took it for a good ride today everything was great until I was on my way home approximately 30% power remaining so I used the regain button which made a loud thud in the hub now the hub won't spin , if I turn it off the on again it gets to spin thus then Nothing?? Greatful if anyone got any ideas on this ?
Are you saying your rear hub locked up completely and still is mechanically jammed? Or do you mean there is now no power/drive from it?

In any case you should start to pull it apart and get to the bottom of it.

Regen causes reverse torque on the axle, and reverse force on the hub ring magnets. To lock the hub, the magnets might have come loose and jammed against the stator. Motor might be ruined. If it's locked up, then go inside and check it. You need an 8" puller tool. If the axle reverse spun too far in the swingarm then you might have broken some of the wires going through the axle slot. Hub motor testers are very cheap on ebay.

I think regen is a problematic hazard. Reverse torque on the axle causes the axle to come lose unless you have some serious axle clamps. The regen is on/off so you lose control of the rear wheel/end when riding offroad lose stuff. I also find the extra wire is a hazard to catch on tree branches (for me). To top it off, the amount of energy you can regen is not worth it. If you want more range then adjust your riding habits. I never want my axle trying to rotate in the reverse direction so I have one of CD's beaut clamps. My Fighter (with many mods) has been super reliable.

PS. Rix, thanks for the advice on the Shinko SR241 19" rear trials tire. I've used it heaps over lots of sandstone and crap with 6500W peak and it's still looking good. I've killed two Razorback fronts since I put the SR241 on. It's got Tubliss in it. Never had a flat yet using around 15PSI. It also sounds awesome when it breaks traction over rocks under power. It grabs nicely in sand and if I ride gently it's super gentle on the trails. Love it!
 
Rix, thanks for the advice on the Shinko SR241 19" rear trials tire. I've used it heaps over lots of sandstone and crap with 6500W peak and it's still looking good. I've killed two Razorback fronts since I put the SR241 on. It's got Tubliss in it. Never had a flat yet using around 15PSI. It also sounds awesome when it breaks traction over rocks under power. It grabs nicely in sand and if I ride gently it's super gentle on the trails. Love it!

Glad you like it. The SR241 is a great tire, I keep trying other tires and always go back to them. It doesn't matter what size, 17-2.75, 17-3.00, 18-2.75, 18-3.00, and the 19-2.75, they are all the best tires I have ran for combo road and dirt performance on all my ebikes, except the P7, I am staying with MTB wheels and tires on it.

the amount of energy you can regen is not worth it.

Regen is neat for prolonging brake pad life, but thats it. I read a story about a guy that used regen from the top of pikes peak all the way to the bottom, 19 miles I think it was, and he only put 100wh back into the battery, Bottom line is, electric motors don't make good generators, and conversely, alternators don't make good electric motors.
 
Thanks for your help guys,

Finally got to solve the problem, after contacting stealth and showing them the bikes diagnostic data they said it was a blown sensor in the hub and I would have to send it off to get repaired. As I started to remove the back wheel I noticed in the large metal connector under the bike that the sleeve had come off one of the small wires inside the connector so I cleaned it out repaired the sleeve and we are now back in action. A few modifications made waterproof tape around the bottom cable's and silicone seal to a few areas hopefully fully water tight now 🤞
Frustrating first few days i.e. pushing it 10 miles home , but had a right good ride approximately 30miles yesterday on some good local track's love the way the fighter handles and attacks the jumps gives plenty confidence.
Will try upload some pics and videos when I learn how to upload them🤣
Thanks for the information guys.
 
Mattof37 said:
As I started to remove the back wheel I noticed in the large metal connector under the bike that the sleeve had come off one of the small wires inside the connector so I cleaned it out repaired the sleeve and we are now back in action.

Great you found the problem! When I first started riding my Fighter a few years back I found that the hall sensors wire plug connector under the frame was a problem point. In fact having any motor phase or halls wires running under the frame is no good because sticks and stones frequently smash into that place a lot when riding off road bush trails. So I replaced the round DIN plug with a tough waterpoof plug (thanks Allex) and I route all my wires above the bottom bracket and along the top of the swingarm. Less failures points and I've never had a problem with controller to hub wires since.

If you seal your hub motor and put oil in it, and use cooling fins around your hub then motor overheating is not problem with high power used a lot, so you can remove the temp sensor wires completely. As a bonus this allows you to use thicker high amp phase wires.
 
Yes I thought that myself cables under the bike will be a problem area , that's a good solution to re-route on top of the swing arm probably be my next job.
As to the regain button I can see your point its just not worth it .
With regards to oil in the hub in the stealth manual is says spray crc 5-56 into the hub but there is no hole I can find to do this????
Sorry for all the questions if you haven't already gathered I'm a new be to electric bikes.

Thanks Matt
 
Mattof37 said:
With regards to oil in the hub in the stealth manual is says spray crc 5-56 into the hub but there is no hole I can find to do this????
Sorry for all the questions if you haven't already gathered I'm a new be to electric bikes.
Questions are fine. Shoot away. There are so many about these bikes.

I sealed my hub motor so I could put 90ml of castor oil in it. Search my old posts since I wrote about it in the past - I think. If you ride rough offroad trails then it's tricky to firmly seal the side covers on. Also you will always get a small seepage of oil getting out between the axle and bearing bore. Just a little. The purpose of the oil is to transfer the heat very fast from the stator to the outer shell. From the shell the heat dissipates out the bolt on radial fin heat sink. I forget the heat-sink brand sorry, but they work great. I prefer castor oil because it is effectively odourless and also easy to wipe away. In comparison ATF stinks and is difficult to clean off anything. It is so good when you can pump a lot of power through a smaller lighter motor and never ever care about overheating. So great when you can ride in mud and wash the bike and that's ok. I've also sealed my controller and frame. For the controller and hub I use oil resistant silicone. For the frame side panels I use normal bathroom/glass silicone sealant. The inside of my controller is smothered in spray oil safe for electronics to reduce corrosion. I like low maintenance on my e-bike.
 
I take it your hub has breath holes in with regards to you saying sealing the hub beforehand? My hub does not have any breath holes in not sure if that is a good thing or not ?
Also spinning the rear wheel unloaded it Maxs out at 74kph (44mph) to be honest on videos I've seen they max out the to the speed limit 95kph unloaded, every setting is to the max output, also riding on a flat surface it struggles to hit 30mph im approximately 13 stone so not overly heavy?
Any ideas on what this could be??

Thanks Matt
 
Mattof37 said:
I take it your hub has breath holes in with regards to you saying sealing the hub beforehand? My hub does not have any breath holes in not sure if that is a good thing or not ?
Also spinning the rear wheel unloaded it Maxs out at 74kph (44mph) to be honest on videos I've seen they max out the to the speed limit 95kph unloaded, every setting is to the max output, also riding on a flat surface it struggles to hit 30mph im approximately 13 stone so not overly heavy?
Any ideas on what this could be??
Yes I added a 1mm breather hole near the chain sprocket. Only needed if you seal the hub.
For oil fill/drain I have a M5 bolt tapped into the right side cover plate, near the magnets. Fiber washer to seal it and bolt short enough so it wont touch the magnets.
74 km/h for unloaded max RPM sounds about right for a stock hut motor. The DC-1 setting won't provide speed/torque above the physical limit. It depends on the motor wind and the voltage.
If you cut the green wire then the DC-1 has no throttle governor control over the main controller. Then the DC-1 is a display only. Limiter settings will do nothing. Also you will get smoother power delivery since the feedback throttling logic is not so great. The main (black external) controller still has a programmed "smooth start" so you don't have to fear max torque at zero RPM.
Your max speed under load depends on your battery health and the amount of load. Assuming tire pressure is adequate and no throttle governing, then I'd be looking into your battery health. Check the voltage sag on the DC-1 display under load at wide open throttle. Those stock LiFePO4 type batteries (if you have one) are very safe but they're not great for energy density, and especially after some serious use or storage in bad conditions (low charge and/or hot air temps).
I'm unsure who is offering good battery solutions nowdays, but I've been using six of these in a 18S2P config (75V) with a Bomber controller and it's awesome. Low cost and stores about 1500 Ah (over 150% range of my original 2014 battery).
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-6s-10000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html
You will also need the wiring loom from ES user CowardlyDuck.
 
Headway was also called deadways, and was popular cellchoice here for about 5 years ago. Were not reliable.
IMHO on a bike you should use something lighter. Lifepo cells are best suited for stationary purposes due to low power density.
But it was a good chem back in the days and perhaps the best 10 years ago when ebikes started to come out to the market.
 
Last Sunday was a sunny day so I took the Bomber for a nice ride on the beach and back home trough the woods.
Here they are building a new extended mouth of the river and in the background you can see the harbor of Livorno.
20180211_144309.jpg
 
Hi,


That sounds like a good idea, so i would need to get a bomber control, new battery and wiring ? Does the dc1 have to be disconnected with all these changes?

1. Does anyone sell the battery back already built the correct size for the fighter.?

2. Where can I source a bomber control?


Thanks Matt
 
bigbore said:
Last Sunday was a sunny day so I took the Bomber for a nice ride on the beach and back home trough the woods.
Here they are building a new extended mouth of the river and in the background you can see the harbor of Livorno.
20180211_144309.jpg

Looks like you had a great ride :mrgreen: , got alot of snow and ice here. How about making a video of a ride around livorno?
 
Mattof37 said:
Hi,


That sounds like a good idea, so i would need to get a bomber control, new battery and wiring ? Does the dc1 have to be disconnected with all these changes?

1. Does anyone sell the battery back already built the correct size for the fighter.?

2. Where can I source a bomber control?


Thanks Matt

If you want to utilize the DC1, then you will have to source your controller through Stealth. Battery options are to have someone like Allex make you one. I know if the cells are staggard, an 18s 7P pack will fit in the Fighter, but there isn't enough room to make it two high. CD build a pack and was creative with his cell arrangement. I think he has the most battery capacity I have seen in a Fighter.
 
Thanks for the reply,

Ok, so if I source the bomber controller from stealth and have the guy you mentioned make me a 72v battery will this still only produce 3700 watt power as that's the max the Dc1 computer will go?
But It would get better range and acceleration?

Please correct me if I'm wrong still trying to find all the information beforehand.

Thanks Matt
 
Dont need to have a bomber controller.
Just get any controller and Cycle analyst and you will have a blast.
Here is one where you can connect your phone to:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75888
On 18 FETs version Battery amps are programmable up to 99A and phase amps up to 370A

Kelly 150 Amps:
https://www.qulbix.com/qulbix-products/diy/controllers

Cellmans 60Amps:
https://em3ev.com/shop/18-fet-irfb4110-infineon-controller/?currency=USD
This is same as a bomber controller.
 
Allex said:
Dont need to have a bomber controller.
Just get any controller and Cycle analyst and you will have a blast.
Here is one where you can connect your phone to:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75888
On 18 FETs version Battery amps are programmable up to 99A and phase amps up to 370A

Kelly 150 Amps:
https://www.qulbix.com/qulbix-products/diy/controllers

Cellmans 60Amps:
https://em3ev.com/shop/18-fet-irfb4110-infineon-controller/?currency=USD
This is same as a bomber controller.

Excellent options if not using the DC1.
 
I anyone running the new rims that come standard on the B-52 now? After the ride in the weekend my rear rim is history and i need a new one. Just not sure if I need to opt for the trials rim they offer given the rocky terrain we ride on, just worried about the extra weight.
 
whitebomber said:
I anyone running the new rims that come standard on the B-52 now? After the ride in the weekend my rear rim is history and i need a new one. Just not sure if I need to opt for the trials rim they offer given the rocky terrain we ride on, just worried about the extra weight.

Opt for the 19MC wheel/rim they offer, you wont regret it.
 
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