New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

eyebyesickle said:
- Grease up that metal gear good - Lucas Red N Tacky 2, or Mobile 28.... you can quiet that metal gear down alot.... Chalo!!! - might tell you what's better - I'm all ears myself.
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I use Lucas Red 'n Tacky #2 in my BBS02 because it's in the grease guns at work, because it's good.

For gears in a sealed housing I would use a moly enriched grease if I had it around. Molybdenum disulfide is a great dry lube and extreme pressure additive, with the disadvantages of being black (so it's harder to tell when it's contaminated) and causing tenacious stains to porous materials. In a closed gearbox, neither of these is a big problem.
 
AWD said:
gggplaya said:
He does consumer reviews of electric bike, from the perspective of an end user which is not an engineer. He reviews it based on the user experience, which is how it should be for 90%+ of people who watch his videos. He also does in a way bring more people in biking with electric bikes, which keeps people healthier and some greener. The others will do their own research, they don't need to watch his videos. I prefer to do much of my own research and even read the tech manual and go over the exploded parts diagrams. But I still enjoy watching his videos to see what else is out there.

When I first started selling electronics (on comission) in college while studying engineering, I learned very quickly to not be too technical and to only give them the relevant information to their user experience. If I tried to get too technical, it was over their heads and they were actually less likely to buy the product because they felt they needed to do more research or just confused altogether. Spending $3k+ on a TV and not being sure of what you want will cause people to sleep on it.

I also don't think he's a factory shill, as you can see he basically bashed a product that was provided for him to demo, the TSDZ2. You can't get any less paid off than that.
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I agree that his shtick is great for holding peoples interest by not getting overly technical but my definition of a bike industry shill is someone that panders to products that advertise with them and or pay their way to events promoting their line and then writing glowing reports. I doubt that Tong Shen sent him that motor direct as they probably don't even know he is alive.
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He was at Electric Bike Outfitters who is trying to sell this kit that he reviewed. If you watch the video, it has their branding all over it, not tongsheng. I don't know if they paid for his trip to their store, but they certainly accomodated him with a demo bike and their kit to review.

At the end of the day, all reviewers of products are like this, unless they're super rich and can afford to buy the products up for review. The stance of most reviewers is to only publish the good reviews, and not publish the bad ones. Instead contacting the company that provided the product and letting them know what changes to make. I've seen several reviewers do this, only to finally publish a review of a revised product that originally had gotten a bad one. If that makes them a shill, then whatever. I watch reviews from several people, then visit the forums to see if people are having issues with the products. I also study the product myself and reach a determination from there. But I certainly don't go around hating on people for taking the time to put out a free review, even if it is biased. Just take it for what it's worth.
 
AWD said:
I doubt that Tong Shen sent him that motor direct as they probably don't even know he is alive.
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You'd be surprised--Fusinmotors sent (unsolicited) Dogman Dan and I kits to review, and that knowing both of us are fairly brutally honest about what's bad and good about things. ;)

Other manufacturers have sent stuff to other people in various countries, that unlike us are known reviewers. Sometimes it's at-cost, sometimes it's free, depends. There's at least a few threads here that are reviews of stuff like that, and probably quite lot of them in total out there on other sites.
 
I am just about to pull the trigger on a TSDZ2 from recycles-ebike. It will be my first build, I'm a total noob. Considering my lack of experience with this, I'm not sure if I should buy the 48v 500w version, or 48v 750w version... the 48v 750w version has free shipping which just about cancels out the price difference. The 750w version comes with a throttle, but I don't plan on using it.

I'm buying the motor to speed up my 40 mile round trip to work.
 
Schalicto said:
I am just about to pull the trigger on a TSDZ2 from recycles-ebike. It will be my first build, I'm a total noob. Considering my lack of experience with this, I'm not sure if I should buy the 48v 500w version, or 48v 750w version... the 48v 750w version has free shipping which just about cancels out the price difference. The 750w version comes with a throttle, but I don't plan on using it.

I'm buying the motor to speed up my 40 mile round trip to work.
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Get the throttle option. You say you won't use it but you will find it handy for launching off the line, or having to push the bike anywhere. Throttles don't preclude good pedaling practice, especially with the TS torque sensing PAS. Much more efficient once you get settled in and a pedal stroke to activate the PAS than throttle anyway. At least that is my experience.

Make sure to get the brass gear installed and look around for ideas on how to improve your chainline while installing which can be pretty bad in some situations but fixable nonetheless.

For 40 miles if say you want to average a little better than 20mph. You could get by with a 10 or a bit more Ah battery and charge at work during the day. If you want to go without a charge you need a bigger, heavier and more expensive battery. Chargers are cheapish and don't weigh much. I say this because I did a 40 mile RT commute a lot this past year on a 10.5 Ah battery but faster due to a higher watt hub motor that i prefer for road duty generally. But I did a group road ride the other day here and we averaged like 21mph and my battery was dropping voltage at the end fast. Granted I was on a MTB with 15psi in the tires :twisted:
 
You probably want the 750w version for commuting without sweating. But keep in mind that a 10AH may not provide enough continuous current for 750w. You might want to consider a 13AH battery assuming it's using 2600mah cells with 13 cells in series in 5 parallel groups. A 10AH battery typically has 13 cells in series in 4 parallel groups. Having more groups in parallel will allow for more amperage. Pay attention to the listing and make sure it's rated for at least 20amps continuous.
 
AWD said:
Make sure to get the brass gear installed and look around for ideas on how to improve your chainline while installing which can be pretty bad in some situations but fixable nonetheless.

For 40 miles if say you want to average a little better than 20mph. You could get by with a 10 or a bit more Ah battery and charge at work during the day. If you want to go without a charge you need a bigger, heavier and more expensive battery. Chargers are cheapish and don't weigh much. I say this because I did a 40 mile RT commute a lot this past year on a 10.5 Ah battery but faster due to a higher watt hub motor that i prefer for road duty generally. But I did a group road ride the other day here and we averaged like 21mph and my battery was dropping voltage at the end fast. Granted I was on a MTB with 15psi in the tires :twisted:
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I'm looking at a 48v 20ah rack mounted battery from recycles-ebike. I don't want to worry about range anxiety. I have not looked at the chain line stuff very much, as I said, I'm a noob... I think I have to get my hands on the motor and install it before I really start to understand what that means.

gggplaya said:
You probably want the 750w version for commuting without sweating. But keep in mind that a 10AH may not provide enough continuous current for 750w. You might want to consider a 13AH battery assuming it's using 2600mah cells with 13 cells in series in 5 parallel groups. A 10AH battery typically has 13 cells in series in 4 parallel groups. Having more groups in parallel will allow for more amperage. Pay attention to the listing and make sure it's rated for at least 20amps continuous.
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Thanks guys! I'll get the 750w! Now I am confused about which charger to buy... should I just get a cycle satiator and be done with it?
 
The weight of a 20ah rack battery really messes with the way your bike will handle. A 17.5ah shark would be better mounted to the dt if you have room for it there that is.

Even with the 20 if your are pinning it to work and back you’ll want to top off the charge at work. The Satiator is a great charger for home use but not small. Just get a 2A charger. Compact and light and will easily top the battery off during the work day. And if it’s a half work day the reserve of reserve larger battery will kick in.
 
Bigwheel said:
The weight of a 20ah rack battery really messes with the way your bike will handle. A 17.5ah shark would be better mounted to the dt if you have room for it there that is.

Even with the 20 if your are pinning it to work and back you’ll want to top off the charge at work. The Satiator is a great charger for home use but not small. Just get a 2A charger. Compact and light and will easily top the battery off during the work day. And if it’s a half work day the reserve of reserve larger battery will kick in.
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For a commuter though, handling may not be an issue. You just want to get to work as quick as possible in an economical way without sweating too much. Unless the commute has a lot of windy switchback roads that you want to take advantage of.
 
I have a tdsz2 and want mount it on a full suspended bike..
Can you suggest a way to lock the motor on my frame?
Thanks
 
mariosss said:
I have a tdsz2 and want mount it on a full suspended bike..
Can you suggest a way to lock the motor on my frame?
Thanks
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I was able to make and install a threaded bracket to fasten the motor too, it was a simple L bracket, if you PM I can get a picture.
 
For anyone who's used both the Bafang BBS02 and the 750W Tongsheng TSDZ2, can you compare them to each other in terms of overall potency and reliability? I have a BBS02 I'm happy with, and it's been dependable so far, but I'd really like to try a similar system with torque sensing.
 
eyebyesickle said:
Slamming the TSDZ2, oh no no no, this is war! hahahah
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You sir are the best hope for this motor. All eyes are on you. It's great that you take the time to report back and update. I look forward to more.
 
Does the current 36V 250W/350W TSDZ2 still have the 45 volts input voltage upper limit?

Is it possible to lift this maximum input voltage value 5 volts using the ST Electronics programming kit?
If yes, which parameter(s) to change?
 
Just a quick update at the 450km mark.

No issues (crosses fingers, touches skull) with the motor or it's performance (500w version, coupled with a 10A 48v battery). Seems to easily handle 40km round trips set to level 2 'Touring mode', with the occasional temp bump to lvl 3 or 4 if I hit a hill and feel lazy.

I can now sense the 'lurch' when doing a standing takeoff, but it's not egregious. It's almost/is unnoticeable if the bike is already rolling.

Speaking of: used the throttle for the first time today (urgent need to get the bike rolling). Works better than I expected. Nice to have.

Still getting a great workout with my daily commute, but it's taken the edge off (which is a good thing: edges seemingly being where injuries go to settle down and raise a family in my experience).
 
Hey guys if you are getting any slipping when putting a large load on your peddles and it’s not your chain then this should help you replacing the sprag clutch. Enjoy. Mine is back to new again. Loving the TSDZ2
[youtube]u-SY0rGMEMo[/youtube]
 
eyebyesickle said:
- I'm loving the new BLACK 110 BCD Spiders... they actually have a real seal (unlike the ridiculous gasket that pairs with the older silver type), that matches the other side of the motor. Better weatherproofing protection for sure. They also look much nicer with the motor in my opinion. I had to get a bunch to replace the old versions I had around!
IMG_20180216_224236.jpg
IMG_20180216_232321.jpg
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Where do you get the black spider? I can only find one source on eBay and its a bit pricey.
 
Jbalat, Thank you very much for the strip-down videos you have made on the TSDZ2 motor unit.
Not difficult, but it helps so much to know in advance what you will find, what tools are needed, and the sequence of work.
Much appreciated.
Dave
 
I've had my TSDZ2 for about a month now and done only 40 miles. I just noticed that there is a lot of side to side play in the cranks. I've seen a couple of posts saying that some on here have added shims to the crank beatings. Can anyone advise what shim size I need I.e OD and ID. Also I'm thinking about replacing the bearings while I'm there. What size are they ?

Or is it worthwhile contacting PSPOWER for a replacement unit ?

Edit: The play in the bearing is is up and down play, not the crank axle sliding left to right.
 
I have for sale 120mm conversion kit for TSDZ2 if someone is interest. I could not get it to fit for my carbon fiber Canyon Dude.. BBSHD did fit. I hope there will be more torque sensing kits in future.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=93237
 
Hi Guys
I have a unit 36v 15a with throttle that has been running well for this past year. Yesterday when starting it up I got an error code 04. What is that and what do I need to do to correct it?
 
eyebyesickle said:
Some of the new speed sensors with the Y split for the lights, are far more sensitive. If the spoke magnet is too close, it will actually scramble, and read very high. This cause a great deal of confusion for many, including me :oops:
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When it displayed 100km/hr exactly, I knew something was wrong with it. It seems to generate a lot of electrical noise if too close to the magnet and the speed counter only goes up as far 100km/hr ....

I "stood" on one of my main gear covers, ordered a new one, and along came a very sturdy cover with 4 attachment lugs instead of the usual 3. Any idea which motor this fits? I'm not sure what problem TS are trying to cure because the old one seems ok.
 
Schalicto said:
I'm looking at a 48v 20ah rack mounted battery from recycles-ebike.

Thanks guys! I'll get the 750w! Now I am confused about which charger to buy... should I just get a cycle satiator and be done with it?
Click to expand...
I've built a rack mounted 12ah and a down tube mounted 17.5ah (on different bikes), both with gross weight of 3.5kg. The bike with the DT pack had, I would say, better handling and so was the ability to manoeuvre the bike when you're off it.

A 4a charger from AnnPower is a bit pricey but it works. Never used a satiator.
 
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