new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
DAND214
10 MW
Come on Slacker, he's trying. I don't worry about his spell as much as his need for speed?
LC, are you sure you want a weak motor. I assume it's a frt.
I know the guy but can't vouch for him. That will be a much simpler setup.
Dan
LC, are you sure you want a weak motor. I assume it's a frt.
I know the guy but can't vouch for him. That will be a much simpler setup.
Dan
wturber
1 MW
slacker said:
This is an electric vehicle discussion site, not an English studies site. If the meaning gets communicated, then good enuf in my book.
For instance, I wouldn't normally pay any attention or bother to comment on the fact that your second sentence is a sentence fragment and not a proper sentence. Who cares? Your meaning is clear.
latecurtis
100 MW
No. I defintally do not want a weak motor. My definition of a weak motor is anything under 500 watts. This motor is 500 watts @ 36 volts.
500W / 36V = 13.9W per volt (13.888888) At 41V Fully charged - 2V sag = 40 * 13.9 = 556W At 35V or cuttoff voltage when the packs shut doen I will still be working with 486W. Most of the time when downtown I recharge and will be way above 500W to go uphill.
The only thing I am NOT sure about is, it is a geared hub motor. I assume that means I should be able to shift to a lower gear or gears when going up hills. If this is true then it should climb hills like an 800W hub motor which is NOT geared. Am I correct on this assumption ? downshifting for going up hills would be like icing on a perfectlly baked cake.
I will still order the motor if not as I have perfect pedal gears. I asked the kid today about that and was told "they shift like butter"
Anyway please let me know If I can shift gears with the geared hub motor. This will be my main ride as the hub motor is very small and low profile and I can adjust the seat for pedaling. It also has a front and rear light.
Thanks.LC out.
PS.
http://prntscr.com/il6f64
Plastic ? HELL NO. That is a deal breaker. Also you cant shift gears. Shifting gears though is not a deal breaker but Plastic sure is.
https://www.electricbike.com/bmc-hub-motor-review/
OK after reading that I am confused. It looks like that motor is using plastic gears also. Will plastic actually hold up ? I really do plan on pedaling up hills and am not looking for speed in this build. Also that article confirmed what I thought about zero drag with a geared vs direct drive. That is what I am looking for with a bike I will actually be pedaling. Please let me know because tommorow I will be making a decision. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnGABQ0dBqo
long video. I had to skip forwards to watch half of it but found out a lot. my only question is what was that fancy tool he used to take it apart. I never saw anything like that. I will need to watch a few more videos I think.
I have no problem with wear and tear if I can get 3 years out of it and fix it myself for less than $100 it will be worth being able to pedal with no drag.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. brakes, finally 
I tried brakes off a mountain bike but again I was close and then failed miserably. I have been working on that bike for over 10 hours and finally managed to hook them up with a short brake cable. i am calling it a thumb brake but it is functional. Not perfect but will work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oavm49dBnVg&feature=youtu.be
That video was about 2 hours ago. Mabye a little more. It failed. I am not mechanically inclined. I am sure you have all figured that out.
However I am a Taurus. I really don't believe in all that astrology stuff but have been told Taurus people are stubbern and growing up with a few of them I tend to agree.
Brakes are the hardest thing to do on a bike. However gears and chains are not easy at all either. I can't believe plastic gears can last that long. I need to watch more videos. It did not actually show him taking it out but only watched 1/2 of it.
I have taken apart unite motors at least 4 different times and managed to put them back togeather. I used thread and gorilla tape to tie back the magnets so I could get it back togeather. I am either luckey or mechanically inclined in that area. Therefore from what I saw on these geared hub motors I have a bit of confidence that if I watch it done I can rebuild those easilly. That long video showed his gears were not worn. The guy is obviouslly old school and looks like a wounded vet so people like that are usually honest and do not lie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoQ4GidQP-k
I am calling my next build easy street. I will order the motor kit today. I have learned a lot. I will master brakes. I am thinking of ordering brand new brakes for a lot of my bikes and installing them. I believe my major shortcoming could be dealing with old parts. The biggest problem seems to be frayed brake cables worn levers and missing hardware.
My main issue with pedal chains is I absolutlly do not want to move the wheel as lining up a motor sprocket with a wheel sprocket and getting the chain tight can be 3 and 4 hour long wrestling matches. It is ri·dic·u·lous. I am google words i cant spell. :lol: copy paste.
My Vocabulary is better than my spelling. I like learning new words but not trying to spell them. Using a chain tensioner will alow me to keep it tight and from falling off. I need to order at least two or three of those. It is why the pedal chain I had on the Currie when I got the 1 HP motor on there fell off soon after the rebuild. I could not get it tight without messing up the motor / wheel sprocket a·lign·ment.
I need to clean and re·or·gan·ize my e bike workshop. Probably after ordering my freeewheel zero drag geared hub motor. I said it did not have to shift as it was not important. Zero drag is more efficient than a mid drive I believe. Mabye not on really steep hills but a chain or hub motor has drag and more weight so only a small lightweight high powered chain drive RC motor with complicated gear reduction could out perform a geared hub motor. The zero drag makes pedaling actually worthwhile as there is not 30% or more of your pedal energey wasted due to drag.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51fEVCGILcc&feature=youtu.be
Most of my bikes are 26" mountain. I think that will be my first belt drive mabye. The Haro V3 is destined for Hubzilla. The Cromotor.
However that bike in the video above would work well with a 24V 500 watt Unite motor@36V and 1HP. I can steal it from the back of my dual motor bike. I can replace it with a 36V 800W motor like is what is on the front of the 24V dual motor bike. Then I can run two 48V cheap Chinese controllers for 2 killowatts and 40 mph on the 20" dual motor bike. Thanks.
LC out.
:lol: :lol: The grey matter in my brain is pumping into overdrive my friends.
i have never gave up on the push trailer idea.
It is NOT a bicycle.
It looks like a tricycle but not with two back wheels. but three wheels perfectlly lined up with lots of flat steel bar connecting it. Question is what is going to be connected to the back of a bicycle.
I will give you all a clue. FX.
It is 9:13 am. 3/1 /18.
I need to test this new build and desperate brake job for credit on another official build by LC on this forum. Also Ronald Mcdonald is on my brain. Also Wall- Mart and money on the card for my first geared freewheel hub motor.
I will post a video soon unless there is a motor/ chain pop / controller / or fatality.
3/1/18
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BOWTjrW7CE&feature=youtu.be
The 500W geared hub motor is ordered. Thanks.
LC out.
I tried brakes off a mountain bike but again I was close and then failed miserably. I have been working on that bike for over 10 hours and finally managed to hook them up with a short brake cable. i am calling it a thumb brake but it is functional. Not perfect but will work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oavm49dBnVg&feature=youtu.be
That video was about 2 hours ago. Mabye a little more. It failed. I am not mechanically inclined. I am sure you have all figured that out.
However I am a Taurus. I really don't believe in all that astrology stuff but have been told Taurus people are stubbern and growing up with a few of them I tend to agree.
Brakes are the hardest thing to do on a bike. However gears and chains are not easy at all either. I can't believe plastic gears can last that long. I need to watch more videos. It did not actually show him taking it out but only watched 1/2 of it.
I have taken apart unite motors at least 4 different times and managed to put them back togeather. I used thread and gorilla tape to tie back the magnets so I could get it back togeather. I am either luckey or mechanically inclined in that area. Therefore from what I saw on these geared hub motors I have a bit of confidence that if I watch it done I can rebuild those easilly. That long video showed his gears were not worn. The guy is obviouslly old school and looks like a wounded vet so people like that are usually honest and do not lie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoQ4GidQP-k
I am calling my next build easy street. I will order the motor kit today. I have learned a lot. I will master brakes. I am thinking of ordering brand new brakes for a lot of my bikes and installing them. I believe my major shortcoming could be dealing with old parts. The biggest problem seems to be frayed brake cables worn levers and missing hardware.
My main issue with pedal chains is I absolutlly do not want to move the wheel as lining up a motor sprocket with a wheel sprocket and getting the chain tight can be 3 and 4 hour long wrestling matches. It is ri·dic·u·lous. I am google words i cant spell. :lol: copy paste.
My Vocabulary is better than my spelling. I like learning new words but not trying to spell them. Using a chain tensioner will alow me to keep it tight and from falling off. I need to order at least two or three of those. It is why the pedal chain I had on the Currie when I got the 1 HP motor on there fell off soon after the rebuild. I could not get it tight without messing up the motor / wheel sprocket a·lign·ment.
I need to clean and re·or·gan·ize my e bike workshop. Probably after ordering my freeewheel zero drag geared hub motor. I said it did not have to shift as it was not important. Zero drag is more efficient than a mid drive I believe. Mabye not on really steep hills but a chain or hub motor has drag and more weight so only a small lightweight high powered chain drive RC motor with complicated gear reduction could out perform a geared hub motor. The zero drag makes pedaling actually worthwhile as there is not 30% or more of your pedal energey wasted due to drag.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51fEVCGILcc&feature=youtu.be
Most of my bikes are 26" mountain. I think that will be my first belt drive mabye. The Haro V3 is destined for Hubzilla. The Cromotor.
However that bike in the video above would work well with a 24V 500 watt Unite motor@36V and 1HP. I can steal it from the back of my dual motor bike. I can replace it with a 36V 800W motor like is what is on the front of the 24V dual motor bike. Then I can run two 48V cheap Chinese controllers for 2 killowatts and 40 mph on the 20" dual motor bike.
Thanks.LC out.
:lol: :lol: The grey matter in my brain is pumping into overdrive my friends.
i have never gave up on the push trailer idea.
It is NOT a bicycle.
It looks like a tricycle but not with two back wheels. but three wheels perfectlly lined up with lots of flat steel bar connecting it. Question is what is going to be connected to the back of a bicycle.
I will give you all a clue. FX.
It is 9:13 am. 3/1 /18.
I need to test this new build and desperate brake job for credit on another official build by LC on this forum. Also Ronald Mcdonald is on my brain. Also Wall- Mart and money on the card for my first geared freewheel hub motor.
I will post a video soon unless there is a motor/ chain pop / controller / or fatality.
3/1/18
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BOWTjrW7CE&feature=youtu.be
The 500W geared hub motor is ordered. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. I can't stop building e bikes 
I remember as a little kid when I built a lot of paper airplains. I remember saying I can't stop building them. :lol: :lol:
The test ride today was succesful. The motor chain is still very tight. The handelbars will need a little more reinforcment. Also the brakes work but there is a lot of room for improvment. I did a video in the parking lot at Wall-Mart but the camera was completly out of focus.
The video I did with the pedal 26" mountain bike was brakes I fixed as the cable was disconnected from the brake lever. I am looking to order the cheapest brand new set that you guys would use if you did not have much money but wanted decent brakes.
I am sure there are a lot of cheap universal brake kits but also willing to bet they are NOT all the same quality. I am NOT looking for cheap junk either. I will be installing or attempting to install brand new brakes on all of my electric bikes.
As far as pedal gears go if anyone has had experience with chain tensioners then please fill me in. I will not be putting deraiulers and pedal gears on all the bikes but would like to for the Schwinn and the Currie. The 20" dual motor bike has the 80T #25 sprocket bolted to the freewheel so any pedal chain is impossible. That is why I want to make that a 40 mph e bike as it will definatlly not be my daily commuter. The rear set up will be with the larger #420 chain like is on the front and 36V 800W Unite motor.
At 48V It will be geared for 40 mph. However am considering a belt drive for the front motor for saftey as a chain can flip the bike if it pops off where if a belt breaks there is less chance of causing such a mishap. I may possibly do a belt on the rear also as I am sick of spoke sprocket kits. I know there are better ways. Also the 500W 24V unite motor would be perfect for my first belt frive for even another build. I will probably do that first so when I do the belt drive for 40 mph I will be able to do a perfect job. Any possible mistakes will be at < 20 instead of > 30 mph.
The Schwinn also will NOT be a daily commuter or the Currie as both motors are noticable. The current build the motor is not as noticable and if the police take it I won't loose much sleep over it. That was the main purpose of the build. The 29" Mongoose will be very low profile with the smaller geared hub motor and constant pedal.
I took off the front basket and added two bolts in the bottom of the handelbars and now there is hardly any movement when pushing forwards. I really need overnight shipping on a good set of brakes on the front.I could not keep the spring on these as it was for a different style of brake. I see my shortcomings with brakes is due to working with missing and worn out parts, no so much mechanical skill. I will need ashort brake line unless I move the shifter up a little. Thanks and please let me know about brake kits and chain tensioners. Thanks.
LC out.
PS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee_1Qv7vB68&feature=youtu.be
I really did not want to take the rear brakes off the Haro V3. It was my last resort however since the Haro will be getting the Cro motor on the back I will need disk brakes. Is it possible to convert ? It already has disk on the front but HubZilla is capable of 60 mph I think so should have disk front and rear. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC out.
I remember as a little kid when I built a lot of paper airplains. I remember saying I can't stop building them. :lol: :lol:
The test ride today was succesful. The motor chain is still very tight. The handelbars will need a little more reinforcment. Also the brakes work but there is a lot of room for improvment. I did a video in the parking lot at Wall-Mart but the camera was completly out of focus.
The video I did with the pedal 26" mountain bike was brakes I fixed as the cable was disconnected from the brake lever. I am looking to order the cheapest brand new set that you guys would use if you did not have much money but wanted decent brakes.
I am sure there are a lot of cheap universal brake kits but also willing to bet they are NOT all the same quality. I am NOT looking for cheap junk either. I will be installing or attempting to install brand new brakes on all of my electric bikes.
As far as pedal gears go if anyone has had experience with chain tensioners then please fill me in. I will not be putting deraiulers and pedal gears on all the bikes but would like to for the Schwinn and the Currie. The 20" dual motor bike has the 80T #25 sprocket bolted to the freewheel so any pedal chain is impossible. That is why I want to make that a 40 mph e bike as it will definatlly not be my daily commuter. The rear set up will be with the larger #420 chain like is on the front and 36V 800W Unite motor.
At 48V It will be geared for 40 mph. However am considering a belt drive for the front motor for saftey as a chain can flip the bike if it pops off where if a belt breaks there is less chance of causing such a mishap. I may possibly do a belt on the rear also as I am sick of spoke sprocket kits. I know there are better ways. Also the 500W 24V unite motor would be perfect for my first belt frive for even another build. I will probably do that first so when I do the belt drive for 40 mph I will be able to do a perfect job. Any possible mistakes will be at < 20 instead of > 30 mph.
The Schwinn also will NOT be a daily commuter or the Currie as both motors are noticable. The current build the motor is not as noticable and if the police take it I won't loose much sleep over it. That was the main purpose of the build. The 29" Mongoose will be very low profile with the smaller geared hub motor and constant pedal.
I took off the front basket and added two bolts in the bottom of the handelbars and now there is hardly any movement when pushing forwards. I really need overnight shipping on a good set of brakes on the front.I could not keep the spring on these as it was for a different style of brake. I see my shortcomings with brakes is due to working with missing and worn out parts, no so much mechanical skill. I will need ashort brake line unless I move the shifter up a little. Thanks and please let me know about brake kits and chain tensioners. Thanks.
LC out.
PS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee_1Qv7vB68&feature=youtu.be
I really did not want to take the rear brakes off the Haro V3. It was my last resort however since the Haro will be getting the Cro motor on the back I will need disk brakes. Is it possible to convert ? It already has disk on the front but HubZilla is capable of 60 mph I think so should have disk front and rear. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The perfect electric bicycle.
My criteria for a perfect build is both working brakes so I can go down Crane st. hill if I choose to do so. So far the Currie and the Schwinn were the only two that I felt comfortable doing that and they both need minor brake adjustments.
The other is of course a working motor which will climb small hills with no problem and is reliable and capable of hauling at least 30 pounds of cargo. I have a back pack for another 30 pounds at least.
The third thing is a pedal chain which does not fall off.
I will need a brake cable and it looks like those things on the top of the frame are used to hold the cable. Not sure if I can order one which will work and it looks like parts are missing so will need a new rear brake and cable. I am sure I can find a lever somewhere.
I remember Doug hooked up a U brake a long time ago and it was posted on this post. He was impressed with them. U brakes are better than what i just hooked up and what I hooked up is better than caliper type brakes which also are more difficult to hook the cable up. However caliper brakes are easier to set the spring. I am still trying to figure out the spring in them.
Then I will need a chain breaker a few master links and a chain tensioner. Then I will have a perfect fully functional electric bicycle. Will any of these links work for parts. I can take more pictures if needed. Thanks and please post when you can.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycle-Chain-Cutter-Splitter-Breaker-Repair-Rivet-Link-Pin-Remover-Tool/132166411896?epid=2097948047&hash=item1ec5bb6678:g:Ju0AAOSwyXNaA~XM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BLACK-Single-Speed-Bike-Bicycle-Chain-Tensioner-AKA-Singleator/222232942396?hash=item33be1d973c:g:tDQAAOSwFdtXw4X
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-Bicycle-Bike-Metal-Chain-Master-Link-Connectors-Repair-Parts-AD/112122835676?epid=1168987426&hash=item1a1b0ab2dc:g:vlAAAOSwux5YTst-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BICYCLE-BIKE-CHAIN-MASTER-CONNECTING-LINK-SET-1-2-x-1-8-or-1-2-X-3-32-new/381376804931?hash=item58cbd43843:g:imQAAOxyYSdTC~TZ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Odyssey-Springfield-U-Brake-Kit-for-BMX-Bike-Hinged-Lever-Pads-Cable-Housing/222660369662?epid=2255354772&hash=item33d7979cfe:m:mJO11ia4J3Wb80sCXsZyuqQ:sc:USPSFirstClass!12303!US!-1
LC out.
My criteria for a perfect build is both working brakes so I can go down Crane st. hill if I choose to do so. So far the Currie and the Schwinn were the only two that I felt comfortable doing that and they both need minor brake adjustments.
The other is of course a working motor which will climb small hills with no problem and is reliable and capable of hauling at least 30 pounds of cargo. I have a back pack for another 30 pounds at least.
The third thing is a pedal chain which does not fall off.
I will need a brake cable and it looks like those things on the top of the frame are used to hold the cable. Not sure if I can order one which will work and it looks like parts are missing so will need a new rear brake and cable. I am sure I can find a lever somewhere.
I remember Doug hooked up a U brake a long time ago and it was posted on this post. He was impressed with them. U brakes are better than what i just hooked up and what I hooked up is better than caliper type brakes which also are more difficult to hook the cable up. However caliper brakes are easier to set the spring. I am still trying to figure out the spring in them.
Then I will need a chain breaker a few master links and a chain tensioner. Then I will have a perfect fully functional electric bicycle. Will any of these links work for parts. I can take more pictures if needed. Thanks and please post when you can.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycle-Chain-Cutter-Splitter-Breaker-Repair-Rivet-Link-Pin-Remover-Tool/132166411896?epid=2097948047&hash=item1ec5bb6678:g:Ju0AAOSwyXNaA~XM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BLACK-Single-Speed-Bike-Bicycle-Chain-Tensioner-AKA-Singleator/222232942396?hash=item33be1d973c:g:tDQAAOSwFdtXw4X
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-Bicycle-Bike-Metal-Chain-Master-Link-Connectors-Repair-Parts-AD/112122835676?epid=1168987426&hash=item1a1b0ab2dc:g:vlAAAOSwux5YTst-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BICYCLE-BIKE-CHAIN-MASTER-CONNECTING-LINK-SET-1-2-x-1-8-or-1-2-X-3-32-new/381376804931?hash=item58cbd43843:g:imQAAOxyYSdTC~TZ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Odyssey-Springfield-U-Brake-Kit-for-BMX-Bike-Hinged-Lever-Pads-Cable-Housing/222660369662?epid=2255354772&hash=item33d7979cfe:m:mJO11ia4J3Wb80sCXsZyuqQ:sc:USPSFirstClass!12303!US!-1
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub motor turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.
You know what's up.
This motor is even smaller than I thought. It is ok though. I will walk up big hills. Only about 2 or 3 blocks on a downtown trip. The cops will not have a clue that is a motor. That was the whole point intended. I got a good deal on the bike and the motor was $150 basically $156 I think total but will say $150.
It was not supposed to be here until the eighth but glad to see it. I was just about to post and gripe about how I wish I had the money to order the parts to finish the latest 20" build. I was actually looking forwards to installing my first pair of U brakes on the back of the 20" build. I already installed the other kind of brakes on the front and was looking forwards also to a chain tensioner to make my life easier when building chain drives.
Basically the 20" build will stay exactly where it was in the last picture until I get the parts. Until then I am installing this motor and riding instead of building. hills with a slight incline I can pedal assist with this. Steeper hills I will walk. I should be able to get to my doctors now and back without my SONA packs shutting down 1/3 of a mile from my house. The zero drag and some pedal power will do the trick. This box is super light so I know just the wheel and motor are not much heavier that just a wheel.
I will post a link when it is togeather. No I probably will not wait for torque arms. Hopefully they are in one of the boxes. I think that if I pedal to 5 or 6 mph then gradually enguage the throttle I should be good. I am running this motor with kid gloves as they say. I wont be using any more motor power than is necessary. I will enguage the throttle with an ultra delicate touch. I will order torque arms but am still riding the bike as soon as the motor is installed.
I will post when it is togeather. Probably in a few hours. It is 7:38 and am on my second cup of coffee. :lol:
It won't be going on the 29" Mongoose. I thought the wheel came with a disk brake option but I was wrong. It is ok though as I have a back up play for that.
You know what's up.
This motor is even smaller than I thought. It is ok though. I will walk up big hills. Only about 2 or 3 blocks on a downtown trip. The cops will not have a clue that is a motor. That was the whole point intended. I got a good deal on the bike and the motor was $150 basically $156 I think total but will say $150.
It was not supposed to be here until the eighth but glad to see it. I was just about to post and gripe about how I wish I had the money to order the parts to finish the latest 20" build. I was actually looking forwards to installing my first pair of U brakes on the back of the 20" build. I already installed the other kind of brakes on the front and was looking forwards also to a chain tensioner to make my life easier when building chain drives.
Basically the 20" build will stay exactly where it was in the last picture until I get the parts. Until then I am installing this motor and riding instead of building. hills with a slight incline I can pedal assist with this. Steeper hills I will walk. I should be able to get to my doctors now and back without my SONA packs shutting down 1/3 of a mile from my house. The zero drag and some pedal power will do the trick. This box is super light so I know just the wheel and motor are not much heavier that just a wheel.
I will post a link when it is togeather. No I probably will not wait for torque arms. Hopefully they are in one of the boxes. I think that if I pedal to 5 or 6 mph then gradually enguage the throttle I should be good. I am running this motor with kid gloves as they say. I wont be using any more motor power than is necessary. I will enguage the throttle with an ultra delicate touch. I will order torque arms but am still riding the bike as soon as the motor is installed.
I will post when it is togeather. Probably in a few hours. It is 7:38 and am on my second cup of coffee. :lol:
It won't be going on the 29" Mongoose. I thought the wheel came with a disk brake option but I was wrong. It is ok though as I have a back up play for that.
DAND214
10 MW
Geared Brushless Hub Motor
Brushless Motor Controller
LED or upgraded LCD controller
Twist or Thumb Throttle
Pedal Assist Sensor
Freewheel (for rear kit)
Two Brake Levers with safety switches, V type and Mechanical Disc brake compatible, will not work on Hydraulic systems.
All purpose lights (includes battery)
Torque arms
Tube liner
Installation hardware and zip ties
No batteries included
Kits doesn't have regen brake option.
Disc brake compatible
PAS/Brake Levers are optional. Kits will operate without them.
You will be able to use your own brakes, cassette, freewheel.
Recommended tire width 1.25-2.25 inches.
Rim width exactly 1"
Hub diameter 14 mm
Rear dropouts 5.5"
Front dropouts 4"
Rear axle length 195mm
Motor Wheel weight 8.4 lb
Water resistant.
Aluminum rims have openings for a schrader type valve.
The way the specs, it is a disc compatible hub and there are torque arms there. You need to move the disc from the bike wheel and install it on the hub.
Dan
Brushless Motor Controller
LED or upgraded LCD controller
Twist or Thumb Throttle
Pedal Assist Sensor
Freewheel (for rear kit)
Two Brake Levers with safety switches, V type and Mechanical Disc brake compatible, will not work on Hydraulic systems.
All purpose lights (includes battery)
Torque arms
Tube liner
Installation hardware and zip ties
No batteries included
Kits doesn't have regen brake option.
Disc brake compatible
PAS/Brake Levers are optional. Kits will operate without them.
You will be able to use your own brakes, cassette, freewheel.
Recommended tire width 1.25-2.25 inches.
Rim width exactly 1"
Hub diameter 14 mm
Rear dropouts 5.5"
Front dropouts 4"
Rear axle length 195mm
Motor Wheel weight 8.4 lb
Water resistant.
Aluminum rims have openings for a schrader type valve.
The way the specs, it is a disc compatible hub and there are torque arms there. You need to move the disc from the bike wheel and install it on the hub.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
OK. I watched a video and feel like an idiot as I was looking for the disk brake to be on it but the video I watch I saw that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a3eGlHAzvY
However if there are torque arms I will install them.
Also the Mongoose 29" wheel looks like it is a wider rim than the 700c hybrid I am going to use.
There is a torque arm there but only one. No way I can think of getting a torque arm on the motor side.
Also there is no arrow like on the 800W hub kit telling me which direction the wheel is spinning. I looked at the Schwinn and the motor wires are coming out the pedal chain side. I hope it is right. I just switched the wheel around. I do not even know if I can make a torque arm with that big white plug in the way. No way one will slide over those wires.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhGswPRYY2w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-ULwccnWH0&feature=youtu.be
No torque arm. Huge lawyers lip.
Thanks.
LC out.
6:49 AM.
I really wanted to ride it today but am tired. My best friends birthday is today and I promised to be downtown around 6 PM. he wanted to get a head start and start sucking beer at noon but I told him I don't get up that early. He is waiting and getting movies at library.
I want to install the controller but never hooked this many wires with the kit Sunder sent and the 20" 800W kit I bought . This is not direct drive though. It says I do not need brake levers to run. Thank the lord for that. I did read the thing Dan posted. I just do not remember little details like the disk brake NOT being on the wheel.
I don't think that wheel would work on the mongoose though as that is a mountain bike and the rim is wider I do believe. I had issues getting on it in lowest seat posistion. I am only 5 feet 8 inches. Nikki the kid who helped me is about 2 inches taller and showed me how to tilt the bike and get on it. I wont be going very fast with this. I will only be going less than 15 mph probably.
The bike I will be taking downtown tommorow though is a different story. I did one test run and a video and made a great brake upgrade since then and made the front end handelbar brace much stronger and tight. The 1,800 watt brushless motor and a 54V 20 AH custom pack will happen. The motor off the front will replace the motor on the back of the dual motor 20" cargo bike. :lol: I will race them against each other. Two 20" bikes one with two brushed motors vs one with a souped up brushless motor.
It looks like the thing on the left has on and off button on the 700c build with the geared motor kit. I never saw that with direct drive kits. I definatlly do not want any pedal assist stuff hooked up. Just what is in the pictures. Hopefully the thing on the left can be the kill switch so I do not have to run more wires. I will need a battery switch in the back though. I am used to kill switch in the front though.
My concern is will it be safe. Also I am concerned about being so high up where my feet can't hit the ground. It is kind of why I am not worried about torque arms as I will always be pedaling with this starting out and will test the sensitivity of the throttle before getting on the bike for sure. Not to mention hitting a broken section of the road scewed up the 1,000 watt motor Sunder sent. I misplaced those spokes Dan sent to try to fix it but will find them. If I hit a pothole with this even more narrow rim I will surely screw this build up also. I will be careful with this. Not going fast. Lots of pedal assist.
It looks like three power settings for the on and off unit on the left and then the thumb throttle on the right. Franklly I am at a loss for words. It is brand new to me as I have never set something up like this. Two days from now if I survive my hangover and intoxicated non sense I will have to mount something on the back rack for the controller and SONA packs. I got that though as custom fabrication and design is what I have been doing.
Any help with controller hooking up/wiring at this point will be greatly appreciated. Like will I need a fuse and kill switch like in all my other builds ? Or is that thing on the left always in off mode by default ? I use fuses and kill switches for saftey and to keep controller from damage. Will I need it for this ?
Thanks again for keeping this post and great forum alive. I am now going to finish watching the newest episode of the walking dead. I try to live my life at it's fullest. No one is gurenteed another day or minute for that matter. :lol: Thanks.
LC out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a3eGlHAzvY
However if there are torque arms I will install them.
Also the Mongoose 29" wheel looks like it is a wider rim than the 700c hybrid I am going to use.
There is a torque arm there but only one. No way I can think of getting a torque arm on the motor side.
Also there is no arrow like on the 800W hub kit telling me which direction the wheel is spinning. I looked at the Schwinn and the motor wires are coming out the pedal chain side. I hope it is right. I just switched the wheel around. I do not even know if I can make a torque arm with that big white plug in the way. No way one will slide over those wires.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhGswPRYY2w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-ULwccnWH0&feature=youtu.be
No torque arm. Huge lawyers lip.
Thanks.
LC out.
6:49 AM.
I really wanted to ride it today but am tired. My best friends birthday is today and I promised to be downtown around 6 PM. he wanted to get a head start and start sucking beer at noon but I told him I don't get up that early. He is waiting and getting movies at library.
I want to install the controller but never hooked this many wires with the kit Sunder sent and the 20" 800W kit I bought . This is not direct drive though. It says I do not need brake levers to run. Thank the lord for that. I did read the thing Dan posted. I just do not remember little details like the disk brake NOT being on the wheel.
I don't think that wheel would work on the mongoose though as that is a mountain bike and the rim is wider I do believe. I had issues getting on it in lowest seat posistion. I am only 5 feet 8 inches. Nikki the kid who helped me is about 2 inches taller and showed me how to tilt the bike and get on it. I wont be going very fast with this. I will only be going less than 15 mph probably.
The bike I will be taking downtown tommorow though is a different story. I did one test run and a video and made a great brake upgrade since then and made the front end handelbar brace much stronger and tight. The 1,800 watt brushless motor and a 54V 20 AH custom pack will happen. The motor off the front will replace the motor on the back of the dual motor 20" cargo bike. :lol: I will race them against each other. Two 20" bikes one with two brushed motors vs one with a souped up brushless motor.
It looks like the thing on the left has on and off button on the 700c build with the geared motor kit. I never saw that with direct drive kits. I definatlly do not want any pedal assist stuff hooked up. Just what is in the pictures. Hopefully the thing on the left can be the kill switch so I do not have to run more wires. I will need a battery switch in the back though. I am used to kill switch in the front though.
My concern is will it be safe. Also I am concerned about being so high up where my feet can't hit the ground. It is kind of why I am not worried about torque arms as I will always be pedaling with this starting out and will test the sensitivity of the throttle before getting on the bike for sure. Not to mention hitting a broken section of the road scewed up the 1,000 watt motor Sunder sent. I misplaced those spokes Dan sent to try to fix it but will find them. If I hit a pothole with this even more narrow rim I will surely screw this build up also. I will be careful with this. Not going fast. Lots of pedal assist.
It looks like three power settings for the on and off unit on the left and then the thumb throttle on the right. Franklly I am at a loss for words. It is brand new to me as I have never set something up like this. Two days from now if I survive my hangover and intoxicated non sense I will have to mount something on the back rack for the controller and SONA packs. I got that though as custom fabrication and design is what I have been doing.
Any help with controller hooking up/wiring at this point will be greatly appreciated. Like will I need a fuse and kill switch like in all my other builds ? Or is that thing on the left always in off mode by default ? I use fuses and kill switches for saftey and to keep controller from damage. Will I need it for this ?
Thanks again for keeping this post and great forum alive. I am now going to finish watching the newest episode of the walking dead. I try to live my life at it's fullest. No one is gurenteed another day or minute for that matter. :lol: Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Hub Motor Burns. 9:35 AM.
Drunk and hooking up wires. :lol:
I think I got hall sensors hooked up. Not sure. Not really sure what they are. :lol:
Good close up photos. About to see what plugs in. I need the power wires to have bullets and motor wires also.
I can take more photos when I am sober. I guess my next trip downtown tommorow will be the 20" build. I kind of like being able to touch the ground with my feet. I feel more comfortable at high speed with lower riding bicycles. That is why I will be able to work with the 29" bike without the torque arms. I will be very gentile with the throttle and if the low setting thing works it will help. Thanks.
LC out.
Drunk and hooking up wires. :lol:
I think I got hall sensors hooked up.
Not sure. Not really sure what they are. :lol: Good close up photos. About to see what plugs in. I need the power wires to have bullets and motor wires also.
I can take more photos when I am sober. I guess my next trip downtown tommorow will be the 20" build. I kind of like being able to touch the ground with my feet. I feel more comfortable at high speed with lower riding bicycles. That is why I will be able to work with the 29" bike without the torque arms. I will be very gentile with the throttle and if the low setting thing works it will help. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
OK
It looks like the throttle wires which are red , white and black (male) plug into the female plug which is red, green and black.
I will need 8 guage wire (black and red) to go from the battery wires from the controller to a kill switch and a fuse like I do with the rest of my builds.
Not sure if it will work then. Can someone look at this and let me know. There are way too many wires. If you click on the picture it will get larger. There was no wiring diagram with this kit. Also it seems that they got a throttle from somewhere and kind of threw it in with the kit along with a single torque arm. That would explain why the wires from the throttle are red white and black and the plug from the controller is red green and black.
I am headed downtown with the new 20" build. Can someone let me know if I need to plug anything else in to get this to work or if something is pluged in wrong. I really do not have the money to replace the controller. I will pick up the fuse and 8 guage wire tommorow to finish this project. Thanks.
LC out.
It looks like the throttle wires which are red , white and black (male) plug into the female plug which is red, green and black.
I will need 8 guage wire (black and red) to go from the battery wires from the controller to a kill switch and a fuse like I do with the rest of my builds.
Not sure if it will work then. Can someone look at this and let me know. There are way too many wires. If you click on the picture it will get larger. There was no wiring diagram with this kit. Also it seems that they got a throttle from somewhere and kind of threw it in with the kit along with a single torque arm. That would explain why the wires from the throttle are red white and black and the plug from the controller is red green and black.
I am headed downtown with the new 20" build. Can someone let me know if I need to plug anything else in to get this to work or if something is pluged in wrong. I really do not have the money to replace the controller. I will pick up the fuse and 8 guage wire tommorow to finish this project. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
Made it downtown and back with the little 20" purple bike. Snow was fierce on the way home :lol:
DrkAngel
1 GW
So ... you just threw away the green installation-instruction booklet? ... that has the wire pinout diagram ... ?latecurtis said:
I know, in the past, you most always throw away the instructions ... but, eventually we'd think you'd learn???
marcelo56
10 mW
https://www.ebikeling.com/e-bike-kit-unboxing-and-installation
marcelo56
10 mW
https://www.ebikeling.com/e-bike-kit-unboxing-and-installation#Complete-Cable-Connections
latecurtis
100 MW
There were no instructions in the box. The controller in the video is not the same as the one I have. The wires the throttle plugs in to in the video are red white and black and the only plug my throttle plugs into is red green and black which is for pedal assist in the video.
So basically the only plug my throttle plugs in to is the plug for pedal assist as the red white and black wire coming from my controller is a male plug and so is my throttle wire. However the plug coming from the pedal assist unit is a female red , white and black plug which the red , white wnd red male plug from the controller will plug into so I will need to plug the red , white and black throttle wire has to plug in to the green , black and red female plug coming from the controller which is the pedal assist in the video, Basically if it does not work then I have no clue how to get this running.
Thanks for trying to help but am still not sure what to do here. The motor wires are pluged in as well as the power on off and power level switch on the left handelbar. I do not use the brake levers which come with the kit and do not need any pedal assist wire hooked up. I simply need a thumb throttle and will enguage the thumb throttle awhile I pedal. I sent an e mail to the company and will see if they answer back. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC out.
So basically the only plug my throttle plugs in to is the plug for pedal assist as the red white and black wire coming from my controller is a male plug and so is my throttle wire. However the plug coming from the pedal assist unit is a female red , white and black plug which the red , white wnd red male plug from the controller will plug into so I will need to plug the red , white and black throttle wire has to plug in to the green , black and red female plug coming from the controller which is the pedal assist in the video, Basically if it does not work then I have no clue how to get this running.
Thanks for trying to help but am still not sure what to do here. The motor wires are pluged in as well as the power on off and power level switch on the left handelbar. I do not use the brake levers which come with the kit and do not need any pedal assist wire hooked up. I simply need a thumb throttle and will enguage the thumb throttle awhile I pedal. I sent an e mail to the company and will see if they answer back. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC out.
marcelo56
10 mW
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-48V-Brushless-DC-Motor-Controller-ebike-LCD-LED-ebikeling/272874062884?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao
latecurtis
100 MW
Thanks for posting that but did not see a wiring diagram on the link.
http://prntscr.com/ionsxj
Well I guess it should work then. They should be more specific. However I guess the message says to plug it in. The red ,white and black from the pedal assist is female and the one in the picture is male so that must be for pedal assist. Therefore the red , green and black female plug from the controller must be for the throttle.
The message I got was I am right. It should have been specific and said in your case the green , black and red is your throttle. Or they should have sent a wiring diagram. I am still not sure what the control module is for. If I hook the blue wires up will I still get full power from the control module if I press the highest setting ? I will know something today as the roads are clear enough for me to get the rent money so might have enough left over for the fuse, 8 guage wire and kill switch. I will post if I get it going
If this front geared hub motor is a freewheel motor with zero drag how would a second motor in the rear work. It should not effect pedal but would it be possible to run two motors off a single controller ? The one montecello56 posted is 1200 to 1400 watts.
I will see how this motor works first though. I am a heavy person at 242 lbs. the last time I went to the doctor. The chances are that the gears in the motor are plastic. However I saw a video after two years the guy took it apart and there was no signs of wear on any of the gears. However two motors would be better for up hills and wear and tear would be even less with two motors sharing the load. First though lets get one to work than I will see if I will even need a second. Thanks.
LC out.
http://prntscr.com/ionsxj
Well I guess it should work then. They should be more specific. However I guess the message says to plug it in. The red ,white and black from the pedal assist is female and the one in the picture is male so that must be for pedal assist. Therefore the red , green and black female plug from the controller must be for the throttle.
The message I got was I am right. It should have been specific and said in your case the green , black and red is your throttle. Or they should have sent a wiring diagram. I am still not sure what the control module is for. If I hook the blue wires up will I still get full power from the control module if I press the highest setting ? I will know something today as the roads are clear enough for me to get the rent money so might have enough left over for the fuse, 8 guage wire and kill switch. I will post if I get it going
If this front geared hub motor is a freewheel motor with zero drag how would a second motor in the rear work. It should not effect pedal but would it be possible to run two motors off a single controller ? The one montecello56 posted is 1200 to 1400 watts.
I will see how this motor works first though. I am a heavy person at 242 lbs. the last time I went to the doctor. The chances are that the gears in the motor are plastic. However I saw a video after two years the guy took it apart and there was no signs of wear on any of the gears. However two motors would be better for up hills and wear and tear would be even less with two motors sharing the load. First though lets get one to work than I will see if I will even need a second. Thanks.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Last picture - number 7.latecurtis said:
or
You could do an ES search for "eBikeling Controller Wiring"
latecurtis
100 MW
Thank you DA. I found it. I did not see the little arrow to get to picture #7 before. I also did a google search a couple of times and did not see it.
I just got back and did not cheap out on the wire. I got 8 guage instead of 10 guage. It was only a couple dollars more. Also I got the 5 dollar automotive tago switch instead of the buck fifty AC house switch like I did for the 20" build. Advanced auto was closed that night. The difference is the AC switch is rated for only 15 amps where the DC taggo switch is about 30 amps I think. I wont be going fast or upgrading either bike to 48V so the switches should work fine. Thanks.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Do ES (Endless-sphere) search, upper right corner.latecurtis said:
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Can LC build an e bike without using a milk crate. :lol:
I could not mount the controller in that chopped up milk crate. I just could not do it. It looks so ghetto. It is ok with most of my rides but need something that looks better for this one.
Unfortunatlly I cant seem to figure out anything which would work.
I need the controller and batteries both on the rear rack. Also I ran a bolt thru the seat post so will have no choice but to get used to the height. It should be high enough to pedal but hope I don't fall off it when I am drunk.
But first I need to come up with something that looks good for the battery and controller. That will be a challenge. Thanks.
LC out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6x0kGO8-0xM&feature=youtu.be
http://prntscr.com/iovp51
http://prntscr.com/iovq6s
http://prntscr.com/iovrft
Check out the three screenshots above. Stewerts meatballs with sause is good. It also works perfect to keep the controller safe and dry.
The bag the controller is in came from the 800 watt hub motor kit that was on the 20" DimondBack for about two years and is now on the 24" bike with a 24" wheel on the front. The bag on top with the SONA packs is an old leather pouch I stole from my ol lady. She has been storing it for about 15 years. :lol:
The only thing I am concerned with now is I am 5 foot 8 and even on my tip toes I know my feet won't touch the ground. Also the wheels are really skinny and I live in a city with a million pot holes probably.
I have one question for everyone who has followed my post. Is it even slightly possible that LC has actually built an e bike that any of you would ride ?. All brakes and gears are in 100% working order. This bike is my first professional build. The Blue DimondBack was close to professional but the brakes were not even close to the quality of these. It did have a pedal chain for one gear. :lol: Thanks and if you would ride this bike please let me know.
LC out.
:lol: I could not mount the controller in that chopped up milk crate. I just could not do it. It looks so ghetto. It is ok with most of my rides but need something that looks better for this one.
Unfortunatlly I cant seem to figure out anything which would work.
I need the controller and batteries both on the rear rack. Also I ran a bolt thru the seat post so will have no choice but to get used to the height. It should be high enough to pedal but hope I don't fall off it when I am drunk.
But first I need to come up with something that looks good for the battery and controller. That will be a challenge. Thanks.
LC out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6x0kGO8-0xM&feature=youtu.be
http://prntscr.com/iovp51
http://prntscr.com/iovq6s
http://prntscr.com/iovrft
Check out the three screenshots above. Stewerts meatballs with sause is good. It also works perfect to keep the controller safe and dry.
The bag the controller is in came from the 800 watt hub motor kit that was on the 20" DimondBack for about two years and is now on the 24" bike with a 24" wheel on the front. The bag on top with the SONA packs is an old leather pouch I stole from my ol lady. She has been storing it for about 15 years. :lol:
The only thing I am concerned with now is I am 5 foot 8 and even on my tip toes I know my feet won't touch the ground. Also the wheels are really skinny and I live in a city with a million pot holes probably.
I have one question for everyone who has followed my post. Is it even slightly possible that LC has actually built an e bike that any of you would ride ?. All brakes and gears are in 100% working order. This bike is my first professional build. The Blue DimondBack was close to professional but the brakes were not even close to the quality of these. It did have a pedal chain for one gear. :lol: Thanks and if you would ride this bike please let me know.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. SIX electric bicycles. :lol: :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72-1NSA5nS8&feature=youtu.be
I definatlly went at least two miles and used hardly any electricity. Amazing.
Also this motor is as quiet as a churchmouse. I definatlly won't be putting and metal gears in this motor. The plastic gears are quiet and work fine. I went up the little test hill pedaling all the way up and barley touched the throttle. I am definatlly impressed with the freewheel hub motor. Thanks.
LC out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72-1NSA5nS8&feature=youtu.be
I definatlly went at least two miles and used hardly any electricity. Amazing.
Also this motor is as quiet as a churchmouse. I definatlly won't be putting and metal gears in this motor. The plastic gears are quiet and work fine. I went up the little test hill pedaling all the way up and barley touched the throttle. I am definatlly impressed with the freewheel hub motor. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
DAND214
10 MW
All right! Make sure the nuts are tight but not too tight. Is the fork aluminum or steel? You said it had lips, if so be sure to put washers that fit in side the lips so you can tighten them without breaking the drop out. Steel won't snap Aluminum will.
So how did you Photoshop the pedaling into the movie?:lol: :lol: :lol: Really good job from what I could see in the dark.
Where did they get all that cotton candy in the parking lot :lol: Lucky you didn't get more. We are dried out here.
If you have time watch this.
[youtube]XG9pVz-86EY[/youtube]
You might learn something important.
Dan
So how did you Photoshop the pedaling into the movie?:lol: :lol: :lol: Really good job from what I could see in the dark.
Where did they get all that cotton candy in the parking lot :lol: Lucky you didn't get more. We are dried out here.
If you have time watch this.
[youtube]XG9pVz-86EY[/youtube]
You might learn something important.
Dan
- Status
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