New Kelly pseudo FOC controller series

Hi everyone.

I would like to know what is the microcontroller used on this FOC Kelly motor controllers. I implemented OpenSource firmware for a electric unicycle commercial board, implemented FOC with SVM as this Kelly controllers does... I am looking for controller that is capable of FOC and with a well known microcontroller like an ARM STM32. Can someone please take pictures to the details of the board and show the microcontroller reference??
 
wonder always where you guys buyed your controllers?!
if from kelly why you ask not the source of the controller?

iam sure you get better answers because if kelly changes firmware or hardware in the acutal series your answer from here may not be actual as you need.
 
Merlin said:
if from kelly why you ask not the source of the controller?
iam sure you get better answers because if kelly changes firmware or hardware in the acutal series your answer from here may not be actual as you need.
Click to expand...
IMO things don't work like that - they will not change the products, instead they may created a new products. But I will ask them anyway.
 
Merlin said:
wonder always where you guys buyed your controllers?!
if from kelly why you ask not the source of the controller?

iam sure you get better answers because if kelly changes firmware or hardware in the acutal series your answer from here may not be actual as you need.
Click to expand...
Got the answer from Kelly that was expected:

NO.We only provide the existing parameters for customers to adjust in the user program.
But customers can not debug the source code or their own firmware.

Thanks,
Fany
 
I've been looking at the KSL-H controllers, I am wondering if anyone else has used them before? Specifically, the KLS8430H. It seems to have all the features I want in a controller.

casainho said:
Hi everyone.

I would like to know what is the microcontroller used on this FOC Kelly motor controllers. I implemented OpenSource firmware for a electric unicycle commercial board, implemented FOC with SVM as this Kelly controllers does... I am looking for controller that is capable of FOC and with a well known microcontroller like an ARM STM32. Can someone please take pictures to the details of the board and show the microcontroller reference??
Click to expand...

I was looking at another controller that exists, the Mobipus, and I stumbled upon the owner (or someone related to the company) looking for developers that know STM32s. So, the Mobipus controllers might use an STM32. You should ask them.
 
atarijedi said:
I was looking at another controller that exists, the Mobipus, and I stumbled upon the owner (or someone related to the company) looking for developers that know STM32s. So, the Mobipus controllers might use an STM32. You should ask them.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Meanwhile, I found, bought and programmed one EBike controller that uses STM32FEBKC6T6 and does FOC, the same microcontroller used on hoverboards: https://opensourceebikefirmware.bitbucket.io/Motor_controllers--Lishui_motor_controllers--LSW-675.html
 
hi,

i have some questions to the KLS 8080IPS Controller + ME1302 Motor:

what should i do when the identification angle is finished (still showes me 170 in user programm) but the motor does not turn correct. struggles to run...

someone else here where the controller puts out at pin 8 (meter) constant 12V while the motor is turning?
and my temp sensor at my ME1302 showes me values between 30 and 246 when the motor is turning in user programm.
when the motor is steady the values are steady too.

next strange thing: the motor gets very hot (when he was still running) in ca. 3-4km it gets over 130°... despite water cooling
 
What thoughts are there over why to choose the isolated and non isolated controllers.

You can get a kls8080i
http://kellycontroller.com/brushless-kls8080i-controllers-c-105_108.html

or the kls8080h
http://kellycontroller.com/brushless-kls-8080h-controllers-c-105_123.html

The former uses 12V to be switched on, where the later uses battery voltage.

I'm thinking myself to go with the later, though it means I'll be using up to 96V going through the ignition and kill switch rather than 12V.
 
Scottydog said:
I'm thinking myself to go with the later, though it means I'll be using up to 96V going through the ignition and kill switch rather than 12V.
Click to expand...

That is a major reason for selecting the isolated controller. Finding a small switch rated for 96v is difficult, 12v switches won't last and they may not turn off after quite a short number of uses. Also having 96v wiring exposed to the extremities of the bike and and user operated controls is not particularly safe.
 
SplinterOz said:
Also having 96v wiring exposed to the extremities of the bike and and user operated controls is not particularly safe.
Click to expand...
Especially if you're ever riding in the rain.

Not quite so bad in a completely dry environment, but still a risk. (wire abrasion, etc)


That said, you can still use the higher-voltage unit and low-votlage controls, by using relays to operate it. (whcih is probably waht it does internally)
 
Thanks guys, so that was my concern. Would the switch hold up over time and is there a safety risk. My electrician mate says go with the isolated type as the contactor won't draw that much to be concerned about. I guess as pointed out could use relays and switch the DC/DC convertor to then turn on the rest of the system.
 
I am having trouble getting my kelly KLS7230S set up with my QS205. They are both new, direct from QS.
So far I have set up all the wiring, as described in their manual. Connected it to an android phone to run the auto identification
I am not able to get past the Auto identfication. by changing to the described parameters and changing the angle from 85->170. Then, powering down and then powering back up.
I had a green light, motor rotated only slightly, in both directions. (not all the way around)
I did that a few times, but kept getting the same result. Then I got a Hall Sensor Error. Then a Motor Temp Sensor error. Then a hall sensor error again. BUT still no results. I am really excited to get this thing running but need a little help. Can anyone help??
 
For those trying to connect KLS controller via HC-05 or HC-06 BT modules and getting "open flash failed" error:

The BAUD rate of BT module must be set to 19200,1,0 (AT+UART=19200,1,0) .
Default baud rates on these modules are different and will not work out of the box.

My module (HC-05) works fine on 5V and doesn't need any voltage regulation.
 
gba said:
For those trying to connect KLS controller via HC-05 or HC-06 BT modules and getting "open flash failed" error:

The BAUD rate of BT module must be set to 19200,1,0 (AT+UART=19200,1,0) .
Default baud rates on these modules are different and will not work out of the box.

My module (HC-05) works fine on 5V and doesn't need any voltage regulation.
Click to expand...

Do I need an Arduino to program it :?
 
Hi all,

this is a long thread so I appologise if my question has already been covered, but I couldn't find anything via the search feature. I have a bike with a KLS 7230 S controller, and there is one aspect to the throttle response I find a bit puzzling:

When coasting, or riding down hill, with zero throttle input the display reads 0 amps and the bike rolls effortlessly. So far so good. Now if I roll on the throttle gently I first see negative amperage, and the bike slows down noticably, before I get enough throttle on to go into positive apms and accelleration. Sort of like the controller is trying to slow down the bike to match my low throttle input.

Is there any way to prevent the controller from going into regen / negative amps due to throttle input? I have a separate regen lever that I use if I ever want any braking from the motor :)
 
If hte kelly uses a "torque" (current) throttle control, then it might be programmed to use a mode that forces torque to match the throttle position, so that reducing throttle below torque level needed to maintain present speed forces the controller to "negative" torque, slowing the motor down to match what the throttle would put it at at it's present position.

I would guess this could be disabled in the Kelly software, though I don't know what name they would put on it.
 
From what I can tell it seems the Kelly controller uses speed control, in which case there isn't much I can do about this behaviour unless they come out with updated firmware that lets us prevent it from applying negative amps (regen) unless you actually use the regen lever.

I'm guessing they aren't the kind of company that take requests from end users?

Edit: Some more reading about the settings leads me to believe there is an element of torque control here too. Can anyone with more knowledge on this subject tell me if I am entirely wrong here? There are two settings, Torque Speed KP and Torque Speed KI which seem to indicate a degree of direct torque control. I will have a play with them both and see if I can figure out a way to tune out the behaviour I have experienced.
 
If it's using a speed throttle, the same technique applies, of applying a negative torque to the wheel when the throttle demand position is less tahn the actual system output/state.

So if your throttle position is at, say 5% of total usable rotation, and the vehicle is at 20% of it's total speed, then the system will apply negative torque to slow it to match that 5%.

Some controllers will allow you to drop the throttle rapidly (letting go of it, for instance) to zero, and it will not try to slam the speed to zero, but isntead "coast" at the present speed. But when you reengage the throttle after this, the system will immediately apply negative torque due to the lower demand speed, until the throttle is raised to or above the actual system speed.


So it's possible your controller can be programmed to change this behavior.


However, it can actually be useful as a brake, if it has sufficient negative torque capability to rapidly decelerate you. (but it can significantly heat up the motor, controller, and phase wires if this is done repeatedly and harshly in a short time period)
 
If the bike was electric only, with no pedals, it would be rather good and function like engine braking on a motorbike. But as I have pedals, and as such can coast / pedal for decent distances before I want to put the power on again then it would be great to get rid of this "hickup" that occurs before the bike accellerates. I've got a few parameters on the controller to play with but sadly we just got more snow so I won't have a chance to test anything for a while :shock:

Does anyone have experience with this particular controller (KLS 7230 S) and tuning the throttle response?
 
benjamin84 said:
I've got a few parameters on the controller to play with but sadly we just got more snow so I won't have a chance to test anything for a while
Click to expand...
Thankfully for the problem you're having, you don't have to ride to do tests that show whether or not the problem is fixed.

Flip the bike upside down, and run the wheel offground.

Since the throttle is a speed control, and the problem exhibits itself anytime demand is less than actual, just engage the throttle exactly like you do when riding, and you'll be able to see if it's still there after each settings change.

Just be aware that at least some Kellys will brick themselves if the motor is turning when you do any updates/changes/etc from the software. Seems really stupid, but it's been reported as a known issue (and is even in some of the manuals). :(
 
Good plan, can certainly see if I can get rid of the negative amperage after coasting that way. A bit worried about messing too much with the settings without being able to test ride it though, might fix one problem and create another one :p Will have to note down the current settings in any case.

And here I was thinking an e-bike couldn't possibly be more complicated than a motorbike :lol:
 
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