Rix
100 TW
I seem to do things a bit sporadically - install something, work out what I should do next, realize I don't have a part or tool, wait 2 days, install, repeat.
I know how that feels man. Time isn't unlimited thats for certain.
I seem to do things a bit sporadically - install something, work out what I should do next, realize I don't have a part or tool, wait 2 days, install, repeat.
I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,
I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,
Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.
Seems like there support was preety good for you. But I'm not sure I'm going to bother contacting them. I've fixed most of the issues at this point and can't be bothered as I'm quiet certain they will at least try to turn me awayCowardlyduck said:That's quite the rant!
I kinda know how you feel, as I had a lot of similar issues with my Fighter when I first got it back in 2011/12. Stealth ended up replacing the whole frame, rear swingarm, seat sub-frame, rear wheel/motor, several batteries (one replacement, 3 repairs), and a bunch of smaller things before everything was finally sorted for me, but the support was pretty good all things considered.
I would contact them and at least try and let them sort it out as they have come through in the past.
The C washer solution defiantly seems like the most plausible, I'll have to try that out, thanks for the help. I have heard of C washers before but I never would of remembered or thought about it for this, I'll have to make or find one and give it a go.Cowardlyduck said:I had a similar issue with the wires on my MXUS exiting at a bad angle. Like you, I used a zip tie to keep them away from the disc rotor, but I also used a C washer and a 2mm washer with a notch for the dropout to space the axle shoulder away from the inside of the swingarm so the bend of the wire isn't too extreme. It can make mounting the wheel a little difficult as you need to slightly spread the dropouts, but it does work...at least for the MXUS.
Cheers
I Don't think I could get away with grinding down the rotor bolts, but if nothing else works I may give it a go. The axle on my motor can only be rotated so the cables come out the top or bottom of the swing arm unforchantly, and the top of the swing arm has the brake clipper of course. Although I can see this working on a motor that has 4 flat sections in the axle vs the 2 flat sections on my hub. The pan head bolts seem like they could help, I'll look into them. I think my best option is a c washer to stretch the swing arm open more. Maby if I combine that with pan head bolts it may just even work :lol:efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,
Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.
also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
\\ (•◡•) / said:Seems like there support was preety good for you. But I'm not sure I'm going to bother contacting them. I've fixed most of the issues at this point and can't be bothered as I'm quiet certain they will at least try to turn me awayCowardlyduck said:That's quite the rant!
I kinda know how you feel, as I had a lot of similar issues with my Fighter when I first got it back in 2011/12. Stealth ended up replacing the whole frame, rear swingarm, seat sub-frame, rear wheel/motor, several batteries (one replacement, 3 repairs), and a bunch of smaller things before everything was finally sorted for me, but the support was pretty good all things considered.
I would contact them and at least try and let them sort it out as they have come through in the past.
The C washer solution defiantly seems like the most plausible, I'll have to try that out, thanks for the help. I have heard of C washers before but I never would of remembered or thought about it for this, I'll have to make or find one and give it a go.Cowardlyduck said:I had a similar issue with the wires on my MXUS exiting at a bad angle. Like you, I used a zip tie to keep them away from the disc rotor, but I also used a C washer and a 2mm washer with a notch for the dropout to space the axle shoulder away from the inside of the swingarm so the bend of the wire isn't too extreme. It can make mounting the wheel a little difficult as you need to slightly spread the dropouts, but it does work...at least for the MXUS.
Cheers
I Don't think I could get away with grinding down the rotor bolts, but if nothing else works I may give it a go. The axle on my motor can only be rotated so the cables come out the top or bottom of the swing arm unforchantly, and the top of the swing arm has the brake clipper of course. Although I can see this working on a motor that has 4 flat sections in the axle vs the 2 flat sections on my hub. The pan head bolts seem like they could help, I'll look into them. I think my best option is a c washer to stretch the swing arm open more. Maby if I combine that with pan head bolts it may just even work :lol:efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,
Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.
also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
Also I want to make it clear when I said the frame had bad craftsmanship the actual steel of the frame is of good quality and the welds all look to be structurally sound. It's just the very messy details and nothing fits together on mine. (also apart from the many scratches that were on mine the paint seems to be a preety high quality automotive like paint)
Anyway thanks everyone for the advice, I'll work on it over the weekend and if I get it working I'll drop back in and leave the results for future reference. Cheers
\\ (•◡•) / said:The C washer solution defiantly seems like the most plausible, I'll have to try that out, thanks for the help. I have heard of C washers before but I never would of remembered or thought about it for this, I'll have to make or find one and give it a go.
I Don't think I could get away with grinding down the rotor bolts, but if nothing else works I may give it a go. The axle on my motor can only be rotated so the cables come out the top or bottom of the swing arm unforchantly, and the top of the swing arm has the brake clipper of course. Although I can see this working on a motor that has 4 flat sections in the axle vs the 2 flat sections on my hub. The pan head bolts seem like they could help, I'll look into them. I think my best option is a c washer to stretch the swing arm open more. Maby if I combine that with pan head bolts it may just even work :lol:efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,
Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.
also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
Also I want to make it clear when I said the frame had bad craftsmanship the actual steel of the frame is of good quality and the welds all look to be structurally sound. It's just the very messy details and nothing fits together on mine. (also apart from the many scratches that were on mine the paint seems to be a preety high quality automotive like paint)
Anyway thanks everyone for the advice, I'll work on it over the weekend and if I get it working I'll drop back in and leave the results for future reference. Cheers
I think what Rix means is that the bolt holes in the rotor were counter sunk / angle cut a small bit so that the bolt heads would sit more flush with the rotor surface, not the rotor bolts ground down.. in the picture that Rix posted it definitely looks like pan head bolts were used..
tolkaNo said:After reading this im wondering has anyone seen the russian version of this frame? Only about $900 shipped on ebay
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/E-bike-Frame-kit-Frame-Steel-for-your-own-Electric-bike-2017-New/232442846339?hash=item361eac5c83:m:mrZPVgFdZPnVLEdo0nC3AtA
I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.
Lash said:Hey \ (•◡•) /
I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.
Having said that, nothing has been a deal breaker for me and the frames Ive dealt with so far (6).
The most time consuming is the bottom bracket fitment if its dirty, has weld slag in there. Some other threads need cleaning out too. Ive had one seat post section needing a bit of filing and a hole elongating to fit. This i presume is because of hand welding / assembly techniques.
Its all part and parcel of DIY building I guess and at the end of the day they are minor tweaks to get a good ebike setup. Heres hoping they are tightening their production methods, and moving more toward laser cut parts or better jigs to keep things square etc.
The other problems like motor wires are all part and parcel of building which i know you get and just want to vent! For me, I tend to play it safe and use parts that are more likely to fit easier first go. I think the award for "making it fit by gosh darn it" has to go to CD for knobby trimming.
Having said that - im looking into controllers for 2 72v Alpha MXUS 3000w builds. With adaptto out of the equation these days, it seems like powervelocity has a 7kw or 15kw version that is worth considering... (ideally im looking at something that can handle 10kw). Any other recommendations for controllers that are up to date - have regen, compatible with mxus, and are fairly user friendly regarding programming and setup? I like powervelocitys android app - thats cool.
Ideal if they are under active development / enhancement and not a old outdated project?
Ideally price is in line with value offered and anywhere from 200-500 ish...
I personally can say i'd WAY rather stealth to use thicker sheets of metal that looked better and wouldn't bend so much when being welding, When these bikes built from the alpha frame weigh~60kg anyway I think it could be a good choice from them. Even though I would agree using thicker steel over the struts they have now wouldn't make the frames any stronger. And they already seem indestructable to my eye.Rix said:I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.
Stealth could use thicker sheets and build these frame with no visible discrepancies, however, the frames would weight 1.5kg or more. To keep weight down the frames were constructed with thinner sheets of cromo steel and were either double sheeted or had trellises welded in place where structural integrity needed reinforcement. That said, I have not yet experienced a failure with the FUTR frames. Thats saying alot as I did have an issue with my Bomber several years ago which Stealth backed repair under warranty no questions asked.
\\ (•◡•) / said:Thanks for all the help. Hopefully everything should go smooth after I get the motor wire situation sorted.
How do they feel impressive ? Compressing by hand?Lash said:Just a heads up for those in Australia especially - these forks could be a good option for your FUTR BETA
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/x-fusion-vengeance-hlr-coil-bicycle-fork-27.5-trav/OT-FK-XF-PP
I just picked up a set, and they look and feel impressive. Light weight, some adjustments and plenty of travel (170mm!)
Hyena said:How do they feel impressive ? Compressing by hand?Lash said:Just a heads up for those in Australia especially - these forks could be a good option for your FUTR BETA
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/x-fusion-vengeance-hlr-coil-bicycle-fork-27.5-trav/OT-FK-XF-PP
I just picked up a set, and they look and feel impressive. Light weight, some adjustments and plenty of travel (170mm!)
I hate to break it to you but they won't fit the FUTR frames, the link says they're tapered and you can only fit a straight steerer headset
Lash said:Wow nice work on getting a BBSHD in there Ian. that will be great to get your thoughts on the ride improvement without the heavy hub.
Yeah Hyena - there is straight steerer option I know straight steerers are hard to come by, so thought i'd let the group know.
I don't have it on a bike yet - only got it the other day, but it looks and feels nice. But to be sure I wont know what its like till i ride it. But going from reviews / research it should be ideal. just waiting on a front hub to turn up to then order spokes to then lace wheels and get a rolling chassis! I'll see if i can get a pic soon of the fork in the frame to get an idea of the angles etc.
In the mean time, you may have seen i did a range test with my "partners beta" the other day. I busted out 70Ks in one ride, incorporating a new MTB bike park that opened in harcourt VIC. It was an epic trip! Did I make It???? ooo watch the video to find out....
[youtube]aKuBIq7og_U[/youtube]
(spoilers - yeah I made it just (gnarly terrain and hills) - absolutely exhausted when i got home (a little concerning so ) - sheesh!