But I gotta ask: Is there no advantage to getting your arse lower?
From looking, it looks like you'd be pretty much wrapped around the thing to ride it, but to this casual observer that seat position look very high. There must surely be some benefit to getting the major weight component that is your own body as low as possible?
Of course, getting the rear tail lower will also bring a benefit!
Last year I run a 160/60-17 tire and this year I want to test the little Hoosier tire and therefore I can’t lift it more down. But I also used the standard lowering links with 3 different positions in the lowest position.
For next year I will change back to chain drive and standard rim and then I will create my own link to lower the rear tail.
Took part last weekend on an energy exhibition with my motorcycle and my ex e-bicycle.
Had a lot of good conversations. People who are interested in my work and want to have my help by their projects.
Saw a lot of lucky faces by sitting down on the vehicle´s for taking a picture.
Get also some negative critic regarding do not fit to registration in GER or using LiPo batteries.
But at the end this event made a lot of fun for me and I got no a short introducing to be an exhibition presenter .
Well I drove to the exhibition by motorcycle and my brother took the bike.
hehe, nice one! Exhibition in winter with snow, the stand is outside and the ice cream trailer idles around aside. Wrong continent
Incredible work you're doing!
I had fun, of course!
It took place at Hirschaid (near to Bamberg, Bavaria, Germany). It was a little exhibition... only 2000 visitors at two days but that was absolutely ok!
I made now some short test runs @ 650A and it feels much better than before regarding the acceleration.
I think I will go now directly to 800ARMS .
Good of you to attend such an exhibition. I bet your bike drew some attention 8)
If you go higher on amps and will seriously go drag racing you might want to read Cowardlyduck's work with fans inside a hub motor for cooling. The burst you will put in won't be cooled instantly but it can help greatly between runs to cool the motor back down. Here is his thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=56965&start=450
And I still think that if you want to further improve acceleration you should consider to add a motor on top of your swing arm just in front of the tire with chain drive to your hub motor.
And I still think that if you want to further improve acceleration you should consider to add a motor on top of your swing arm just in front of the tire with chain drive to your hub motor.
There is so much space that even the large hubmotor would fit on the swingarm behind the damper.
Than doubling the volts (or up to max RPM the motor can take) and a 1:2 reduction! I think it could do a wheelie than 8)
Well it´s 144V version motor. So actually there is no controller on the market that can handle this high voltage, except Emsiso H300 (400V, 450A) and Unitek 700/400 controller. But The phase current with 400A are to weak and also the price with 5k€ is very high!
I tested now 650A:
https://youtu.be/TzGoCUG-H8o
But only on real short distance!
For weekend I will go to 800A and check out for one run!
BTW: I found out now that the motor is not good for drag racing cause of too high Kv (12,08).
It should be lower or I should have to divide the windings but with 7T I will have one left!
BTW: I found out now that the motor is not good for drag racing cause of too high Kv (12,08).
It should be lower or I should have to divide the windings but with 7T I will have one left!
In autumn I will change to chain drive!
Your Kv is too low, not too high, but that's only because of a lack of controller options to high enough voltage. Of course with a higher Kv, which can then handle proportionally more amps, high enough current controllers become hard to find. If I recall correctly the tooth count on those motors are ok to wind as 6 phase, or the other alternative is to do split windings. Either option requires 2 controllers, which is easier to find and more economical with 2 controllers to sum to the current you want.
The current now seems to be enough:
https://youtu.be/LDEAdqyNhtA
I changed now to max phase currents and got the wheel spinning by full acceleration.
Normally I should lower the wheel base distance but then I will got some problems with tire-rear tail distance.
I made also a short introduction to my motorcycle:
https://youtu.be/3oYI6uO11dk
Now I installed also a bicycle lamp called Supernova to be able to take part during night runs at some events where lightning system is required. Hopefully they accepted an bicycle lamp at a motorcycle.
So it´s battery type (model: Airstream II) and I can quickly remove it.
I changed also the cam position to the upper fork bridge side and therefore I can also record the GPS speed value in parallel!
Nice runs!! So glad it's making torque now at real phase currents.
Your rear tire is only spinning because it's way over pressure. Your Kv being high is how to do it right and have epic pull all the way down the track if you can just feed it the phase current it needs to make the torque.
To function the tire needs to be so low air pressure it deforms the carcass heavily and wads up a big flapping mess of slipping tire under your wheel. It is for this capability to wrinkle up and deform in a big flat patch against the ground that you use the Hoosier tire you've got.
In addition to Luke's remarks: with very low air pressure the radius from the axle to the ground (contact patch tire/ground) will be smaller resulting in a little lower gearing at take off. As soon as the speed goes up the tire will "grow" to its maximum diameter and so to the highest "gearing". It's only a few percent but everything counts in (drag)racing! :wink:
I know but thanks for your feedbacks.
On combustion bike I put rear tire pressure only to 0,6 bar (normal 2,8 bar/35PSI).
But as I said before the Hoosier tire I used is a car front drag tire with only 2,8 kg of weight (6lbs).
The tire itself has a very thin running surface and the side walls of it are more thin.
Inside the video clip from Luke you can see that most of the rear tires are screwed.
As Frank Papp, from Hoosier/Continental, told me that this tire is absolutely not foreseen to use it as rear tire on motorcycle rim I believe him (but it fits perfectly)!
Therefore it will have not the performance as you can see inside the video!
As you can also see inside my video when I am running early in the morning, the rear wheel slipped because of the under ground (dust surface). On air plane landing field he did not slip!
But the landing field surface in Bamberg is special one (transverse rib over the whole distance to avoid water puddle) which will be not the same as in Eisenach @ German Race Wars or in Alkersleben @ Speeddays King of Germany!
So I will see/ feel the difference there.
If it´s starts spinning I will lower the pressure for sure but not too much!
The drag strip is so sticky you might not have any issues at all even at 25-30psi.
I personally ran my slicks at 6-8psi and they would sometimes bog my clutch drop from 9500rpm on a 2.4liter running a +175hp shot of nitrous at lunch with an 1800lbs FWD car.
With rear drive and that tire on a drag strip at the right pressure you can definitely find traction.
Well not all drag strips are sticky here in GER!
We do not have special drag racing tracks here.
The big event´s who have enough money prepare the track to get it sticky.
The tracks here are normaly airplane fields or race parks like Nürburgring or Hockenheim!
But at this big event´s I did not take part.
There are driving bigger cars and motorcycles with much more power than my XX kW vehicle and I am only at the beginning and probably in two or three years I will reach my personal limited kW class and will be able to run at such tracks. Give me a little bit of time to save money and fulfill my dream step by step!
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