New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Maybe there are different stock chainrings. I can fit a piece of 1/8" steel between the chain and motor but I cannot get a 3/16" piece to fit between them. The space between the side of the 8 spd chain and the motor on mine cannot be any larger than 4mm.
 
Ugh. We did about 40 miles over the last 3 days and today the torque sensor is crapping out on us. It is only kicking in occasionally and only under full power pedaling, but the throttle is working fine. Anyone have this happen?

Well I unplugged the battery and plugged it back in and it seems to be working again, at least in the backyard. Maybe it was just a glitch.
 
How bad is the chain alignment with a stock tsdz2? My bike is 8-speed. Will that make a lot of noise? Is 11-28 rear too small to climb steep hills efficiently?
 
Factory front chainring is 42t which is higher speed and lower torque. With a 28t rear thats a ratio of 1.5 which is not ideal for hills. You can easily converr to an sram nx 11 speed as the cassette fits on an 8 speed hub. You can get a 11-42 or 11-50 ratio with the NX and sunrace cassette. The NX isnt terribly expensive. Sunrace also makes an 8 speed wide ratio 11-40 cassette if u wanted to keep it all under $50. Just get a drop link to move ur derrauilleur down.
 
ebikeman123 said:
How bad is the chain alignment with a stock tsdz2? My bike is 8-speed. Will that make a lot of noise? Is 11-28 rear too small to climb steep hills efficiently?

Ours lined up pretty well, I have a similar 8 speed gearing as you (11-32). The chainlink appears to line up with 5th or 6th gear on our plus sized boost framing bike. We have a small battery (2ah) so I am unsure of the power for climbing hills. With 27.5 plus tires and the 42 chainring we run 8-10mph in first gear up inclines. The motor is a bit weak climbing hills but I think my battery is the culprit.

If I were to start over I would go with the newer motor with the 52v controller. I would also either step down to 36t chainring and/or upgrade the rear cassette to the sunrace 8spd 11-40. It depends on how fast you pedal on the flats. I only use my motor to help with the inclines as my battery does not last very long.

It is very quiet, it just makes a light whine noise.

Here is a link to a website that will calc all your gear speeds:

http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed
 
John and Cecil said:
Maybe there are different stock chainrings.

I didn't yet realize, but my bikes have 1/8" chain.
The TSDZ2 chainring is most probably designed for 3/32" chain.
 
John and Cecil said:
Ugh. We did about 40 miles over the last 3 days and today the torque sensor is crapping out on us. It is only kicking in occasionally and only under full power pedaling, but the throttle is working fine. Anyone have this happen? :?:
Switch it off then on again and don’t touch anything, especially the pedals, for 10 seconds or so. The controller software initialises the torque sensor every time it’s switched on.
 
James Broadhurst said:
John and Cecil said:
Ugh. We did about 40 miles over the last 3 days and today the torque sensor is crapping out on us. It is only kicking in occasionally and only under full power pedaling, but the throttle is working fine. Anyone have this happen? :?:
Switch it off then on again and don’t touch anything, especially the pedals, for 10 seconds or so. The controller software initialises the torque sensor every time it’s switched on.

Yes thank you. I disconnected the battery and waited a few seconds and reconnected it and it was working again :)
 
Ali Express has a sale on the stock chainrings. I am thinking about trying the 34t chainring (under $15 shipped) and swapping out my 11-32 8spd rear to a 11-40 8spd rear. The problem that I see is a 34t chainring cannot be offset and my chainline will be adversely effected. Right now my chainline lines up with 5th gear, but with this modification my chainline will probably line up with 6th gear or possibly between 6th and 7th. Do you guys think this will be a problem?

I did the calcs and at 90 cadence I will go from 29mph top speed to 24mph in 8th, and 1st goes from 10 to 6.5mph. That means 35% more power for climbing hills and I am really not going over 25mph on the flats anyway. I think I can keep my stock chain intact too since I will be going up an extra 8 teeth on the rear and dropping 8 teeth on the chainring. But the chain line might be a problem since it can no longer be offset with that few teeth on the chainring.
 
pliebenberg said:
The 52 volt version works just fine with a fully charged 52v battery, at least mine did.

It's rated at 750 watts but the most I can pull through the controller was 670W; given the tiny 16 gauge power leads that's about the most to hope for.

Time will tell regarding the Tongsheng's reliability. (I purchased the metal gear; won't put it in until I need to)

I've pulled 780W max so far from my 52V TSDZ2 (I haven't been trying to hit the max). I'd actually rather have a lower power Eco setting so waiting and hoping that the controller settings can be altered as Speed and Tour seem pretty similar in assistance to me. I also purchased the metal gear for that reason but no idea where it is now!
 
John and Cecil said:
Ali Express has a sale on the stock chainrings. I am thinking about trying the 34t chainring (under $15 shipped) and swapping out my 11-32 8spd rear to a 11-40 8spd rear. The problem that I see is a 34t chainring cannot be offset and my chainline will be adversely effected. Right now my chainline lines up with 5th gear, but with this modification my chainline will probably line up with 6th gear or possibly between 6th and 7th. Do you guys think this will be a problem?

I did the calcs and at 90 cadence I will go from 29mph top speed to 24mph in 8th, and 1st goes from 10 to 6.5mph. That means 35% more power for climbing hills and I am really not going over 25mph on the flats anyway. I think I can keep my stock chain intact too since I will be going up an extra 8 teeth on the rear and dropping 8 teeth on the chainring. But the chain line might be a problem since it can no longer be offset with that few teeth on the chainring.
They have a 30t chainring that i would imagine be the same chainline as the factory 42t, which is as close to the clutch housing as possible. https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p66/30T_Narrow%2FWide_Chainring_for_TSDZ2.html
 
gggplaya said:
They have a 30t chainring that i would imagine be the same chainline as the factory 42t, which is as close to the clutch housing as possible. https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p66/30T_Narrow%2FWide_Chainring_for_TSDZ2.html

Ah, I see the measurement discrepancy between our stock chainrings now. My 42t chainring is dish shaped (not flat) and the chain actually passes over the top of the clutch housing. The center line of the teeth on my chainring are just about lined up with the edge of the housing. It would not be possible for a 30t chainring to have the same chain line (due to the smaller diameter) unless the clutch cover were substantially ground down to allow the chain to pass through it.
 
So, Tuesday evening, riding to work, I borked my nylon gear. Wednesday, I was able to replace it with one of the metal gears, and boy did I ruin that nylon sucker. I wouldn't have been comfortable doing it without the videos on https://www.youtube.com/user/jbalatutube channel, so if you're lurking here somewhere, thank you.

I also wanted to thank you guys who took time to answer my questions, this is a really cool group of folks, glad I found my way here.
 
My 48V TSDZ2 will not start with my 52V battery fully charges. It starts at 55.6 or below. I have the nylon gear and have pulled 760 watts on a 10% grade. Nearing 1500 miles on my motor and no problems with my nylon gear. I have an N-360 rear hub and always shift down to start.

Has anyone found or developed a maintenance schedule for these motors? If so I missed it. I'm on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" schedule now.
 
itchyfoot42 said:
My 48V TSDZ2 will not start with my 52V battery fully charges. It starts at 55.6 or below. I have the nylon gear and have pulled 760 watts on a 10% grade. Nearing 1500 miles on my motor and no problems with my nylon gear. I have an N-360 rear hub and always shift down to start.

Has anyone found or developed a maintenance schedule for these motors? If so I missed it. I'm on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" schedule now.

My motor is the same, about 55.6v however today I was able to get it to run with 56.0v. I overcharged my battery a bit tonight so I will give it a try tomorrow just a little above 56v. I think the answer may be to upgrade the controller to the 52v model. I see the 48v ones selling for $40-50 so once they are readily available it should allow the use of fully charged 14s batteries. I really like the power at 55v, and power drops off considerably at 45v.

I mostly run in eco mode and I use the throttle to increase power after I get up to cruising speed. I am hoping this will protect my gear and not stress the motor much as we are pulling a lot of weight (175lbs for me, 25lbs for cecil, and 10lbs for his carrier.

Edit - I tested it again this morning with the overcharged battery. 57, 56.7, and 56.3v did not work - but 56.0v is working again today. I guess that is my magic number.
 
aja said:
pliebenberg said:
The 52 volt version works just fine with a fully charged 52v battery, at least mine did.

It's rated at 750 watts but the most I can pull through the controller was 670W; given the tiny 16 gauge power leads that's about the most to hope for.

Time will tell regarding the Tongsheng's reliability. (I purchased the metal gear; won't put it in until I need to)

I've pulled 780W max so far from my 52V TSDZ2 (I haven't been trying to hit the max). I'd actually rather have a lower power Eco setting so waiting and hoping that the controller settings can be altered as Speed and Tour seem pretty similar in assistance to me. I also purchased the metal gear for that reason but no idea where it is now!

This mirrors my experience with the 52v. I also would like a bit less on Eco and find the speed and tour to be pretty much indistinguishable so I have just been using Eco. Sounds like there is a chance that there will be an answer soon.
 
Is the difference between the 48V 500W and 52V 750W the controller only? i have the 48V and that would be a cheap upgrade since I already have 52v batteries for a bafang
 
tinasdude said:
Is the difference between the 48V 500W and 52V 750W the controller only? i have the 48V and that would be a cheap upgrade since I already have 52v batteries for a bafang

That is a good question. Both 500 and 750 watt versions use the same motor and also the same controller(per pswpower catalog). It would seem something else would be different, perhaps they are merely flashed with a different firmware. It really sucks how there is so little info out there about the specs. I would love to know the max wattage on the 6v lead for the lights :(
 
John and Cecil said:
That is a good question. Both 500 and 750 watt versions use the same motor and also the same controller(per pswpower catalog). It would seem something else would be different, perhaps they are merely flashed with a different firmware. It really sucks how there is so little info out there about the specs. I would love to know the max wattage on the 6v lead for the lights :(
I would say the firmware have a different max current value setup for each version.That is why having our own OpenSource firmware is powerful -- we can set any value from 0 up to max controller and battery value :)

We just need to look at the controller board and find which mosfet turns on/off the lights, etc.
 
Creep said:
So, Tuesday evening, riding to work, I borked my nylon gear. Wednesday, I was able to replace it with one of the metal gears, and boy did I ruin that nylon sucker.

Can you tell any difference between the nylon and metal? Smoothness maybe? I'm just wondering if there's any downside to the metal. I know I'll need a replacement sooner or later.
 
Sadly PSP won't supply the 52volt boards, I emailed them and they won't sell them at this time.

The sooner we can get a free program to play around with the settings as per the Bafung series, the better it will be for all users.

The only two real problems I have with my unit has been when lending it to a new user, they put their feet on the pedals and then turn it on, they get only very limited motor power and the other has been if the rear spoke magnet get knocked and turns slightly, it becomes too close, the motor seems to go into a weird mode of working and not working and juddering.
 
Waynemarlow said:
...when lending it to a new user, they put their feet on the pedals and then turn it on, they get only very limited motor power...

New users used to non torque sensor equipped e-bikes just get straight on the pedals and don't realise the torque sensor requires a few seconds to calibrate (or don't remember if you've told them). I don't know if the calibration time can be reduced. I also haven't timed the calibration time of e-bikes which have Bosch/Shimano/Brose etc (if there is a calibration time that is), which have torque sensors built in.
 
aja said:
Waynemarlow said:
...when lending it to a new user, they put their feet on the pedals and then turn it on, they get only very limited motor power...

New users used to non torque sensor equipped e-bikes just get straight on the pedals and don't realise the torque sensor requires a few seconds to calibrate (or don't remember if you've told them). I don't know if the calibration time can be reduced. I also haven't timed the calibration time of e-bikes which have Bosch/Shimano/Brose etc (if there is a calibration time that is), which have torque sensors built in.
I would put some warning to user on LCD whole calibration is happening...
 
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