Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

I seem to do things a bit sporadically - install something, work out what I should do next, realize I don't have a part or tool, wait 2 days, install, repeat.

I know how that feels man. Time isn't unlimited thats for certain.
 
Hello again....
Coming here Again because this frame has once again defeated me. It has seriously been around 7 months since i started working on this bike. This frame seems to be one issue after another. All I keep doing is cleaning up the frame and fixing all the downright crappy craftsmanship of it, from getting the bottom bracket in after multiple hours of battling with the badly tapped and covered in paint bottom bracket threads, to hand sanding the metal of the seatpost tube to get my 31.6mm thompson seatpost in, because there was a whole line of welding on the inside of the seatpost tube???, And then having to crosshatch the inside of the tube because the metal isn't sandblasted or anything, instead it's just shiny metal so the seatpost will slip down and hit the shock when riding (I was using a hope qr seatpost clamp which was closed as tightly as I could possibly get it), to the swingarm that had to be hand sanded to get it onto the bearings on the frame (had to take a whole lot more than just paint off the swingarm to get it on), plus the bottom of my frame and swingarm had scratches all over it out of the box. Mounting my 24 FET power velocity controller onto the frame was annoying also because of the ripples in the metal on the frame as discussed here earlier. The shock mounts were also smaller than 30mm so my custom shock bushing were hard to get in. The headtube of the bike took some very hard hammering to fit my FSA headset, even after it was in the freezer for ~2 days, many of the side panel bolts don't line up so i have to file the holes in the side panels to elongate them so all 7 bolts will go in, The key switch is not straight when in the on position, The seat frame assembly had to be bent out because one of the bolts didn't line up to screw into the main section of the frame. and all this took much longer to fix than it sounds
Seriously what is it with this frame, do FUTR/stealth even check a single thing on it before they send it out, I would contact them about it but from what I have heard/ seen there support is close to zero and there reply's are all very evasive of the issues. What the hell do i do, i have put so many hours into getting this frame to work but still i'm discovering dodgy craftsmanship that im having to spend tonnes of time fixing. For one of the more expensive frames on the market I think it's pretty damn bad, I realise telling you this is quiet pointless as no one here is FUTR support but have you guys had these issues to?, what have you all been doing, Just working around it?
And trust me I really do want this frame to work for me, It has to be one of the best looking frames on the market, But it's just a losing battle

Anyway rant finished, sorry for filling the thread with negativity :| , now onto today's issue, My QS 205 V3's wires are sandwiched between the swingarm and the brake rotor, And badly as well. I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's, have you guys had this issue or were your frames different, and any ideas how i could fix this?. (Thank-you, i hate coming here asking so many questions but there's not really anywhere else)


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I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,

Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.
 

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I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,

Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.

also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
 
That's quite the rant!

I kinda know how you feel, as I had a lot of similar issues with my Fighter when I first got it back in 2011/12. Stealth ended up replacing the whole frame, rear swingarm, seat sub-frame, rear wheel/motor, several batteries (one replacement, 3 repairs), and a bunch of smaller things before everything was finally sorted for me, but the support was pretty good all things considered.
I would contact them and at least try and let them sort it out as they have come through in the past.

I had a similar issue with the wires on my MXUS exiting at a bad angle. Like you, I used a zip tie to keep them away from the disc rotor, but I also used a C washer and a 2mm washer with a notch for the dropout to space the axle shoulder away from the inside of the swingarm so the bend of the wire isn't too extreme. It can make mounting the wheel a little difficult as you need to slightly spread the dropouts, but it does work...at least for the MXUS.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
That's quite the rant!

I kinda know how you feel, as I had a lot of similar issues with my Fighter when I first got it back in 2011/12. Stealth ended up replacing the whole frame, rear swingarm, seat sub-frame, rear wheel/motor, several batteries (one replacement, 3 repairs), and a bunch of smaller things before everything was finally sorted for me, but the support was pretty good all things considered.
I would contact them and at least try and let them sort it out as they have come through in the past.
Seems like there support was preety good for you. But I'm not sure I'm going to bother contacting them. I've fixed most of the issues at this point and can't be bothered as I'm quiet certain they will at least try to turn me away

Cowardlyduck said:
I had a similar issue with the wires on my MXUS exiting at a bad angle. Like you, I used a zip tie to keep them away from the disc rotor, but I also used a C washer and a 2mm washer with a notch for the dropout to space the axle shoulder away from the inside of the swingarm so the bend of the wire isn't too extreme. It can make mounting the wheel a little difficult as you need to slightly spread the dropouts, but it does work...at least for the MXUS.

Cheers
The C washer solution defiantly seems like the most plausible, I'll have to try that out, thanks for the help. I have heard of C washers before but I never would of remembered or thought about it for this, I'll have to make or find one and give it a go.


efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,

Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.

also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
I Don't think I could get away with grinding down the rotor bolts, but if nothing else works I may give it a go. The axle on my motor can only be rotated so the cables come out the top or bottom of the swing arm unforchantly, and the top of the swing arm has the brake clipper of course. Although I can see this working on a motor that has 4 flat sections in the axle vs the 2 flat sections on my hub. The pan head bolts seem like they could help, I'll look into them. I think my best option is a c washer to stretch the swing arm open more. Maby if I combine that with pan head bolts it may just even work :lol:

Also I want to make it clear when I said the frame had bad craftsmanship the actual steel of the frame is of good quality and the welds all look to be structurally sound. It's just the very messy details and nothing fits together on mine. (also apart from the many scratches that were on mine the paint seems to be a preety high quality automotive like paint)
Anyway thanks everyone for the advice, I'll work on it over the weekend and if I get it working I'll drop back in and leave the results for future reference. Cheers
 
\\ (•◡•) / said:
Cowardlyduck said:
That's quite the rant!

I kinda know how you feel, as I had a lot of similar issues with my Fighter when I first got it back in 2011/12. Stealth ended up replacing the whole frame, rear swingarm, seat sub-frame, rear wheel/motor, several batteries (one replacement, 3 repairs), and a bunch of smaller things before everything was finally sorted for me, but the support was pretty good all things considered.
I would contact them and at least try and let them sort it out as they have come through in the past.
Seems like there support was preety good for you. But I'm not sure I'm going to bother contacting them. I've fixed most of the issues at this point and can't be bothered as I'm quiet certain they will at least try to turn me away

Cowardlyduck said:
I had a similar issue with the wires on my MXUS exiting at a bad angle. Like you, I used a zip tie to keep them away from the disc rotor, but I also used a C washer and a 2mm washer with a notch for the dropout to space the axle shoulder away from the inside of the swingarm so the bend of the wire isn't too extreme. It can make mounting the wheel a little difficult as you need to slightly spread the dropouts, but it does work...at least for the MXUS.

Cheers
The C washer solution defiantly seems like the most plausible, I'll have to try that out, thanks for the help. I have heard of C washers before but I never would of remembered or thought about it for this, I'll have to make or find one and give it a go.


efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,

Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.

also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
I Don't think I could get away with grinding down the rotor bolts, but if nothing else works I may give it a go. The axle on my motor can only be rotated so the cables come out the top or bottom of the swing arm unforchantly, and the top of the swing arm has the brake clipper of course. Although I can see this working on a motor that has 4 flat sections in the axle vs the 2 flat sections on my hub. The pan head bolts seem like they could help, I'll look into them. I think my best option is a c washer to stretch the swing arm open more. Maby if I combine that with pan head bolts it may just even work :lol:

Also I want to make it clear when I said the frame had bad craftsmanship the actual steel of the frame is of good quality and the welds all look to be structurally sound. It's just the very messy details and nothing fits together on mine. (also apart from the many scratches that were on mine the paint seems to be a preety high quality automotive like paint)
Anyway thanks everyone for the advice, I'll work on it over the weekend and if I get it working I'll drop back in and leave the results for future reference. Cheers


https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650&start=225#p1165502
 
\\ (•◡•) / said:
The C washer solution defiantly seems like the most plausible, I'll have to try that out, thanks for the help. I have heard of C washers before but I never would of remembered or thought about it for this, I'll have to make or find one and give it a go.

efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
I would say I would only get around 1 ride before the brake rotor brakes tear and short the wires, I have seen some of you run QS 205's in your Alpha's,

Bigbore ran into the same issue. He ended up countersinking the disk screws and got the clearance that way.

also maybe loosen the axle nuts then rotate the hub motor so that the cable bundle comes out at the pinch bolts where it would have more clearance there.. maybe add some extra C washers or other protection there, and pan head instead of button head rotor bolts..
I Don't think I could get away with grinding down the rotor bolts, but if nothing else works I may give it a go. The axle on my motor can only be rotated so the cables come out the top or bottom of the swing arm unforchantly, and the top of the swing arm has the brake clipper of course. Although I can see this working on a motor that has 4 flat sections in the axle vs the 2 flat sections on my hub. The pan head bolts seem like they could help, I'll look into them. I think my best option is a c washer to stretch the swing arm open more. Maby if I combine that with pan head bolts it may just even work :lol:

Also I want to make it clear when I said the frame had bad craftsmanship the actual steel of the frame is of good quality and the welds all look to be structurally sound. It's just the very messy details and nothing fits together on mine. (also apart from the many scratches that were on mine the paint seems to be a preety high quality automotive like paint)
Anyway thanks everyone for the advice, I'll work on it over the weekend and if I get it working I'll drop back in and leave the results for future reference. Cheers

I think what Rix means is that the bolt holes in the rotor were counter sunk / angle cut a small bit so that the bolt heads would sit more flush with the rotor surface, not the rotor bolts ground down.. in the picture that Rix posted it definitely looks like pan head bolts were used..
 
I think what Rix means is that the bolt holes in the rotor were counter sunk / angle cut a small bit so that the bolt heads would sit more flush with the rotor surface, not the rotor bolts ground down.. in the picture that Rix posted it definitely looks like pan head bolts were used..

That is correct and what I meant to say. Running big motors like the QS205 require this unless its going on a 170mm wide swing arm.
 
Hey \ (•◡•) /
I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.
Having said that, nothing has been a deal breaker for me and the frames Ive dealt with so far (6).
The most time consuming is the bottom bracket fitment if its dirty, has weld slag in there. Some other threads need cleaning out too. Ive had one seat post section needing a bit of filing and a hole elongating to fit. This i presume is because of hand welding / assembly techniques.

Its all part and parcel of DIY building I guess and at the end of the day they are minor tweaks to get a good ebike setup. Heres hoping they are tightening their production methods, and moving more toward laser cut parts or better jigs to keep things square etc.

The other problems like motor wires are all part and parcel of building which i know you get and just want to vent! For me, I tend to play it safe and use parts that are more likely to fit easier first go. I think the award for "making it fit by gosh darn it" has to go to CD for knobby trimming. :shock:

Having said that - im looking into controllers for 2 72v Alpha MXUS 3000w builds. With adaptto out of the equation these days, it seems like powervelocity has a 7kw or 15kw version that is worth considering... (ideally im looking at something that can handle 10kw). Any other recommendations for controllers that are up to date - have regen, compatible with mxus, and are fairly user friendly regarding programming and setup? I like powervelocitys android app - thats cool.

Ideal if they are under active development / enhancement and not a old outdated project?
Ideally price is in line with value offered and anywhere from 200-500 ish...
 
After reading this im wondering has anyone seen the russian version of this frame? Only about $900 shipped on ebay

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/E-bike-Frame-kit-Frame-Steel-for-your-own-Electric-bike-2017-New/232442846339?hash=item361eac5c83:m:mrZPVgFdZPnVLEdo0nC3AtA
 
tolkaNo said:
After reading this im wondering has anyone seen the russian version of this frame? Only about $900 shipped on ebay

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/E-bike-Frame-kit-Frame-Steel-for-your-own-Electric-bike-2017-New/232442846339?hash=item361eac5c83:m:mrZPVgFdZPnVLEdo0nC3AtA

Yes, this version of the frame has been out for a while. I personally don't know of anyone that has built up a bike from it though, so I have no reference point on quality.
 
I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.

Stealth could use thicker sheets and build these frame with no visible discrepancies, however, the frames would weight 1.5kg or more. To keep weight down the frames were constructed with thinner sheets of cromo steel and were either double sheeted or had trellises welded in place where structural integrity needed reinforcement. That said, I have not yet experienced a failure with the FUTR frames. Thats saying alot as I did have an issue with my Bomber several years ago which Stealth backed repair under warranty no questions asked.
 
Lash said:
Hey \ (•◡•) /
I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.
Having said that, nothing has been a deal breaker for me and the frames Ive dealt with so far (6).
The most time consuming is the bottom bracket fitment if its dirty, has weld slag in there. Some other threads need cleaning out too. Ive had one seat post section needing a bit of filing and a hole elongating to fit. This i presume is because of hand welding / assembly techniques.

Its all part and parcel of DIY building I guess and at the end of the day they are minor tweaks to get a good ebike setup. Heres hoping they are tightening their production methods, and moving more toward laser cut parts or better jigs to keep things square etc.

The other problems like motor wires are all part and parcel of building which i know you get and just want to vent! For me, I tend to play it safe and use parts that are more likely to fit easier first go. I think the award for "making it fit by gosh darn it" has to go to CD for knobby trimming. :shock:

Having said that - im looking into controllers for 2 72v Alpha MXUS 3000w builds. With adaptto out of the equation these days, it seems like powervelocity has a 7kw or 15kw version that is worth considering... (ideally im looking at something that can handle 10kw). Any other recommendations for controllers that are up to date - have regen, compatible with mxus, and are fairly user friendly regarding programming and setup? I like powervelocitys android app - thats cool.

Ideal if they are under active development / enhancement and not a old outdated project?
Ideally price is in line with value offered and anywhere from 200-500 ish...

Hey Lash, Yea my BB threads were very bad, I ended up carefully using some steel wool to clean off the threads, but even then it was really hard to get the BB to screw in, but It's in now and hopefully It also fixed the threads up.

As for my issues with the hub fitment that's fine and obviously has nothing to do with the frame, but I got some things from bunnings yesterday which can hopefully get it fixed.

Also with the controllers i'm running a 24FET power velocity controller on my bike, It took a bit of work to get it mounted up but it looks great now that it's on, After i've used it a bit i'll report back on how it's going if you'd like, I don't have any pics of it on the bike but here's some photos of the things I did to the controller to get it to fit on the frame, (the plate is 5mm aluminum which mounts the controller to the frame, the plate has now been covered in the same carbon fibre vinyl stealth uses on the side covers of the frame) the last photo is of me painting the controller matt black with high temp paint (https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duram ... k_p1400735) Which can withstand temps of up to 690 celcius :eek: . I did 6 coats on the controller so the paint is on there really good and should easily easily be able to be covered in mud and then washed over and over without ever chipping. Anyway i'll have photos of the controller mounted on the bike and talk more about this when I finish the bike or if someone really wants me to
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Rix said:
I hear you, I think the quality of the FUTRs could be improved so users get a better out of the box experience in putting them together.

Stealth could use thicker sheets and build these frame with no visible discrepancies, however, the frames would weight 1.5kg or more. To keep weight down the frames were constructed with thinner sheets of cromo steel and were either double sheeted or had trellises welded in place where structural integrity needed reinforcement. That said, I have not yet experienced a failure with the FUTR frames. Thats saying alot as I did have an issue with my Bomber several years ago which Stealth backed repair under warranty no questions asked.
I personally can say i'd WAY rather stealth to use thicker sheets of metal that looked better and wouldn't bend so much when being welding, When these bikes built from the alpha frame weigh~60kg anyway I think it could be a good choice from them. Even though I would agree using thicker steel over the struts they have now wouldn't make the frames any stronger. And they already seem indestructable to my eye.



Also i'd like to say thanks to everyone who helped out with my motor wire issue, I PIcked up some countersunk bolts yesterday and will countersink my rotor some time soon, I also have a few other ideas to get it working now. So i'll work on that when I get the chance. Also I pulled the motor back apart tonight to take out the spare set of sensor wires, It was a bit hard to get apart since I put high Temp silicone gasket around the edge of the motor side covers when I opened it to fill with ferrofluid. When taking out the spare motor sensor wires they were all connected to3 temp/rpm/whatever else sensors (which all had 3 incoming pins) on one side of the motor, while the backup sensor wires that i'm keeping connects to sensors on the other side of the stator. Although there's one wire connected to the center off all 3 of these sensors, the wire goes into the wire shielding that runs to the other side of the stator where the sensor wires i'm keeping come from, just checking it's obviously not possible this wire from the middle pin of all 3 sensor doesn't connect to the other set of sensor wires? It seems obvious that it couldn't have any use connected to the other set of wires but it runs into the shielding that all of the main sensor wires come out from. And i'm hoping to not have the cut the shielding apart to find out, here's some pictures.
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Thanks for all the help. Hopefully everything should go smooth after I get the motor wire situation sorted.
 
\\ (•◡•) / said:
Thanks for all the help. Hopefully everything should go smooth after I get the motor wire situation sorted.

It just occurred to me, you may have the biggest motor in an Alpha yet. Looking forward to seeing your build complete.
 
Just a heads up for those in Australia especially - these forks could be a good option for your FUTR BETA

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/x-fusion-vengeance-hlr-coil-bicycle-fork-27.5-trav/OT-FK-XF-PP

I just picked up a set, and they look and feel impressive. Light weight, some adjustments and plenty of travel (170mm!)

They have them in white and black - I chose white for my next white beta build.

Reports and reviews are very positive, and the price cant be beat! Check em out. I'm yet to real world test them, but cant see why they wouldnt at least be as good as the DNM.
 
"Also with the controllers i'm running a 24FET power velocity controller on my bike, It took a bit of work to get it mounted up but it looks great now that it's on, After i've used it a bit i'll report back on how it's going if you'd like,"

- Yeah I'd like to see what it looks like on the bike when you can, the dimensions make it quite wide - so i guess that why you narrowed the case and raised it with a bracket....

Be good to see. trying to hone down a controller - just a bit concerned the 24fet might be too big - but if it does the job and then some - im open to being accomodating. Otherwise sabvoton is the other contender right now. but need to do more reading.
 
Lash said:
Just a heads up for those in Australia especially - these forks could be a good option for your FUTR BETA

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/x-fusion-vengeance-hlr-coil-bicycle-fork-27.5-trav/OT-FK-XF-PP

I just picked up a set, and they look and feel impressive. Light weight, some adjustments and plenty of travel (170mm!)
How do they feel impressive ? Compressing by hand?
I hate to break it to you but they won't fit the FUTR frames, the link says they're tapered and you can only fit a straight steerer headset
 
Hyena said:
Lash said:
Just a heads up for those in Australia especially - these forks could be a good option for your FUTR BETA

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/x-fusion-vengeance-hlr-coil-bicycle-fork-27.5-trav/OT-FK-XF-PP

I just picked up a set, and they look and feel impressive. Light weight, some adjustments and plenty of travel (170mm!)
How do they feel impressive ? Compressing by hand?
I hate to break it to you but they won't fit the FUTR frames, the link says they're tapered and you can only fit a straight steerer headset

It looks like there's an option so you can get tapered or straight so the straight steerer tube should fit.
Lash how much mileage have you done with that fork? I'm interested, I've put my alpha on a diet and I am going to lower the ride height which means a new fork will be needed. Any feedback regarding that fork would be useful to me at least. I will post some photos soon of my newly made over alpha just waiting on a few more parts to arrive to finish her off.
 
Here's a couple of pics. It's still a work in progress.
So far the changes are: 26x3 Duro tires, In place of the MXUS 3k is a Halo SAS 48 spoke wheel.
Motor is now Bafang bbshd I cut my bb shell down from 100-80mm to make it fit.
Installed a sunrace 11-40 8spd cassette and shimano shifter.
Next jobs will be install the fork and shock from my Trance X1 which will lower the bike approx 50-70mm and make it more nimble in tight tracks.
 

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Wow nice work on getting a BBSHD in there Ian. that will be great to get your thoughts on the ride improvement without the heavy hub.

Yeah Hyena - there is straight steerer option ;) I know straight steerers are hard to come by, so thought i'd let the group know.

I don't have it on a bike yet - only got it the other day, but it looks and feels nice. But to be sure I wont know what its like till i ride it. But going from reviews / research it should be ideal. just waiting on a front hub to turn up to then order spokes to then lace wheels and get a rolling chassis! I'll see if i can get a pic soon of the fork in the frame to get an idea of the angles etc.

In the mean time, you may have seen i did a range test with my "partners beta" the other day. I busted out 70Ks in one ride, incorporating a new MTB bike park that opened in harcourt VIC. It was an epic trip! Did I make It???? ooo watch the video to find out....

[youtube]aKuBIq7og_U[/youtube]



(spoilers - yeah I made it just (gnarly terrain and hills) - absolutely exhausted when i got home (a little concerning so ) - sheesh!
 
Lash said:
Wow nice work on getting a BBSHD in there Ian. that will be great to get your thoughts on the ride improvement without the heavy hub.

Yeah Hyena - there is straight steerer option ;) I know straight steerers are hard to come by, so thought i'd let the group know.

I don't have it on a bike yet - only got it the other day, but it looks and feels nice. But to be sure I wont know what its like till i ride it. But going from reviews / research it should be ideal. just waiting on a front hub to turn up to then order spokes to then lace wheels and get a rolling chassis! I'll see if i can get a pic soon of the fork in the frame to get an idea of the angles etc.

In the mean time, you may have seen i did a range test with my "partners beta" the other day. I busted out 70Ks in one ride, incorporating a new MTB bike park that opened in harcourt VIC. It was an epic trip! Did I make It???? ooo watch the video to find out....

[youtube]aKuBIq7og_U[/youtube]



(spoilers - yeah I made it just (gnarly terrain and hills) - absolutely exhausted when i got home (a little concerning so ) - sheesh!

Looks like an epic ride and your "partners" beta looks like a great bike for that type of riding.
The alpha minus the heavy rear wheel is like a totally different bike now. The rear feels more stable in rough terrain which is more confidence inspiring especially in turns. It is now possible to unweight the rear wheel when approaching an obstacle same as non ebike. An extra bonus is the urt rear suspension design works very well with the bbshd with zero flex under power and also remaining supple under power too.
I'm hoping this bike will become my go to bike more often now with it now being lighter with more range as well.
I will miss the power but the advantages should make it all worth it I hope. I've only had 2 rides so far but I'm happy for now. I really like the 26+ tires as well. I should be able to do some long rides with 30ah 12s multistar lipos on board.
I will be making the battery in 10ah 12s modules and loading 10-20 or 30ah depending on range requirements
 
Two pics of the x-fusion in the beta...
quick measure it looks like from axle to bottom of steerer tube are about same dimensions as usd8... which sounds good to me, maybe not so much if you are looking for a lower ride height.

lashebike-beta-x-fusion1.jpg


lashebikes-xfusion2.jpg


Thanks for the report on the alpha mid drive Ian. I hear what you are saying about getting the rear wheel up. It'd be nice to do that in an alpha as you approach rocks or logs etc. in the 500w beta you can hop a bit to drift over a rock or object. In the park it was balanced nicely in the air too taking on small and medium jumps (with perfect designed downramps too might i add). So I am all for a lighter build being front and centre in the stable... ;)
 
getting so close now....

just handlebars, brakes and final tidy-up required.

IMG_3002.JPG

Allex's battery fitted in perfectly, with enough space for wiring.

IMG_3004.JPG
 
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