Kuberg Freerider Extended Swingarm Project

I tried this so called fix today, and it didn't even think about fixing the problems I am having...I have tried messing with a lot of settings and nothing seem to effect or fix the issue.

Was a waste of a weeks time and a few dollars for the diodes, I will be ordering another KBS controller now sadly

Here are the diodes that are typically included with the Kelly controllers. I used three in between my phase hall sensor colors with the cathode towards the motor
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I got rid of the 12vdc going to my halls since that also didn't solve the problem, not sure what Arnold from the KLS post is talking about this solving, but it doesn't help on the LRHDD maybe the LMX motor is not as similar as we thought
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Unfortunately broke down and ordered another Kelly controller to solve my drive issue...$225 shipped! got the KBS this time

Sucks but its needed

also I ordered one of the new topeak front fenders to give it a shot and some hydro line to fix front/rear brakes
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Are these controllers from Eastgem waterproof? I never got an answer on that question.
 
bigpie said:
Are these controllers from Eastgem waterproof? I never got an answer on that question.
Click to expand...

I would try and ask Alex, I think Kelly controllers are sealed very well from factory as is, but there is a optional water proofing treatment that I am not sure if Eastgem opted in for. I have heard of people getting water ingress and damage...but for all we know they have them upside down
 
So the new Kelly KBS series controller came in I ordered the KBS72151E

For some reason I thought it was going to be the same size as the KLS but its smaller and 50a less rated...I was mad at first but then I realized it fit the frame absolutely perfect and I didn't need to modify it at all!
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Doesn't come with the nice wires like the Eastgem controllers but oh well (Kelly switch to 200deg silicon!)
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Had to split the sub frame off again and lift the battery to install the new controller
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About an inch shorter...Whats an inch between friends
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Shot of the serial numbers for reference
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Lengthened the hall wires and added a positive jumper to pin #7 power, I will finish the wiring tomorrow
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Phase wires are short and rigid I will have to put some rubber where the metal frame part is in the way so nothing shorts or wears away
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I'd imagine the power to weight ratio on that bike is pretty high. You have any idea of total weight with batteries and all?
 
Raisedeyebrows said:
I'd imagine the power to weight ratio on that bike is pretty high. You have any idea of total weight with batteries and all?
Click to expand...

Well I was able to take it out for a test ride and it is now performing properly! The weight I am not sure of but the battery alone is 28lbs 18s24ah and the motor is probably 12lbs and controller and wiring another 2lbs plus frame and wheels at maybe 50lbs

I will get a official weight soon, but I am already running into a front suspension issue I think...

Now that I have a full size battery pack and my big self on the bike, the front shock is borderline dangerous/useless

I may need to beef this thing up to a Fast Ace front fork similar to what the Zero uses and then at that point I would need moto wheels.

I have not taken it on the trails yet, but on the tar trying to rip around and toy with the bike is scary with the front fork sag...again this is what I get for cheaping out. Don't get me wrong it is a very nice fork but not for a heavier powerful ebike!
 
you could get the fast ace fork model that's used on the Sur-ron light bee, it's for downhill bikes and would not require a moto front wheel.. just 20mm through axle mtn bike front wheel.. other options would be DNM, RST, etc..
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
you could get the fast ace fork model that's used on the Sur-ron light bee, it's for downhill bikes and would not require a moto front wheel.. just 20mm through axle mtn bike front wheel.. other options would be DNM, RST, etc..
Click to expand...

Do you have a link to where to buy Fast Ace or another brand? Or should I buy them from a member?

I have a DNM and its not good enough for my bike and me weight 300lb combined easy
 
I don't have a link off the top of my head, maybe contact luna cycle, they carry fast ace, rst, and dnm for light bee.. maybe put up a wanted add in the sales forums on here or pop in on the Sur-ron thread where ppl are decided on what fork to run based on riding style and rider weight, etc.. also check, eBay, pinkbike, etc.. these guys might have some good deals, just be sure to tell them what your using it for so that you get something heavy duty : https://recycledmountainracing.com
or maybe you could just source stiffer springs for your DNM?? did you try adding higher pressure to the air chamber and increasing the spring preload??
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
you could get the fast ace fork model that's used on the Sur-ron light bee, it's for downhill bikes and would not require a moto front wheel.. just 20mm through axle mtn bike front wheel.. other options would be DNM, RST, etc..
Click to expand...

Would something like DVO Emerald or similar be an option if $$$ was not an issue? Small KTM WP fork like Motomoto was talking about previously? Seems like fork selection for this type of bike is tricky when a person desires full-on MX level performance, the bikes are in between bicycle and MX bikes in weight so an actual MX fork is heavy but a DH MTB fork is possibly not designed for constant pounding while carrying a 100 lb bike + rider. You seem to have done some homework and thinking on this type of machine, if price was no object and you wanted max performance do you have any suggestions or ideas?

Maybe Squish Dynamics or that other outfit based near Bend that rebuilds MTB suspensions every day all day long would have some ideas about somehow modifying the Fastace or some other fork to get good small bump and chatter performance and still take monster hits reasonably well?
 
Raisedeyebrows said:
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
you could get the fast ace fork model that's used on the Sur-ron light bee, it's for downhill bikes and would not require a moto front wheel.. just 20mm through axle mtn bike front wheel.. other options would be DNM, RST, etc..
Click to expand...

Would something like DVO Emerald or similar be an option if $$$ was not an issue? Small KTM WP fork like Motomoto was talking about previously? Seems like fork selection for this type of bike is tricky when a person desires full-on MX level performance, the bikes are in between bicycle and MX bikes in weight so an actual MX fork is heavy but a DH MTB fork is possibly not designed for constant pounding while carrying a 100 lb bike + rider. You seem to have done some homework and thinking on this type of machine, if price was no object and you wanted max performance do you have any suggestions or ideas?

Maybe Squish Dynamics or that other outfit based near Bend that rebuilds MTB suspensions every day all day long would have some ideas about somehow modifying the Fastace or some other fork to get good small bump and chatter performance and still take monster hits reasonably well?
Click to expand...

the major suspension manufacturers are starting to come out with ebike specific forks and shocks, so its happening.. fast ace coil spring option would be an improvement over their air sprung model.. and yes a high end fork such as fox or dvo with stiffer springs and custom valving would likely fit the bill nicely.. even a small dirt bike fork would probably be overkill imo, but I would like to see it done and tested anyways.. forum member Emmett on the stealth thread seems to like his dnm fork with custom valving and he has a lot of moto and suspension experience.. go to the stealth website and the forum there to check out his dnm mods..
 
I didn't try adding air yet since I don't recall this problem last year when I had half the battery...I did max the spring adjustment

Where do you put air in the DNM usd-8?
 
FYI im pretty sure I will be rebuilding the rear wheel to 18" moto real soon after all this weight addition too
 
skeetab5780 said:
I didn't try adding air yet since I don't recall this problem last year when I had half the battery...I did max the spring adjustment

Where do you put air in the DNM usd-8?
Click to expand...

under the red cap at the bottom of the damping leg is a Schrader valve to adjust the air chamber.. will probably need pliers to remove the cap, its on really tight.. see if it's mentioned in the suspension fork owners manual or do a search on here of forum member Emmett's suspension tuning and mods in the stealth thread..
 
Here is a quick vid of me testing the controller/motor operation seeing if any error codes occur...everything seems to be working great now. I just got my disc brake lines in the mail so I can fix them once and for all

Little rubber gone on the Maxxis now :)
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Finally got my Hose and barb kit from China! Took like 2 months but its was the right price!

I really couldn't stand how the front hose was too short and the back too long, drove me nuts...
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rerouted the cables the way that made sense and bled the systems...The rear Shimano setup is really easy to bleed but the front Shimano SLX has a mineral oil reservoir and was impossible to get bled...even with the proper Shimano mineral oil bottle and hose. its working but still not fully bled, I must be doing something wrong. Ill watch a youtube vid one of these days!
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Does anyone know how to bleed Shimano SLX brakes? They have a reservoir of mineral oil and there is no screw for a burp funnel, i thought i got the air out but i guess not
 
Got my front brakes bled finally the SLX are no fun to bleed, others are so easy compared to it. Im planning on lowering the bike a bit and going to 18” moto wheel front 17” moto rear. Its just tall and scary with 26”/24” bike wheels. Also i will look into the front fork issue.

Ive been following Sur-ron vids and threads and i have to say the hill climb ability is much better than my first impressions earlier. I would still like to ride the kuberg with one some day to see how they compare. I wont be buying one anytime soon because i got enough on my plate unfortunately.
 
So after adding 24ah of LIPO to the bike, I am now entering the heavy hottie club and I need to embrace it before I kill myself! I decided to switch over to DOT rated moto wheels and gain a few more pounds in exchange for stability and longer life :)

Here is the swap of the front wheel to 18" moto using the Denzel wheels...the 10awg spokes are pretty ridiculous IMO and they aren't necessary but who knows maybe it will make the bike more stable

I need to order spokes to lace the rear hub into the rear wheel so I will need to wait a few on that

From this view it doesn't look like much of a difference, but from the side its crazy
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New wheel is much heavier than the MTB wheel
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Looks a bit better now, ass end still needs to drop a bit, but feels a little better overall
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Did you have to drill the holes bigger on the front hub to fit the thicker spokes
 
Did you have to drill the holes bigger on the front hub to fit the thicker spokes
 
Did you have to drill the holes bigger on the front hub to fit the thicker spokes
 
Did you have to drill the holes bigger on the front hub to fit the thicker spokes
 
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