Salvaged EV cells index: Leaf, Volt, Tesla, Zero, etc

Problem with cell 11 reading high.
Got it under control with a larger awg cable between #10 and #11.
Still get 15mv drop. And that's @ 6a. May have to make a huge bussbar or look for another solution.
Balance leads connected from both packs.
Could that be it?
All leads are 630ma fused. So wire 10+ and 11- have less resistance with parallel fuses.

MVC-001F.JPGMVC-004F.JPG

ps.
Picture is with a small jumper connecting packs. #11 read .5v high with that in place.
 
Few can argue that the best cells for DIY ebike batteries are from salvaged EVs.
I ride on 11S Nissan Leaf battery from 2016 Nissan Leaf -
LiMnO4 41Ah rated cells.
Many here don't know that:
Nissan switched from 31Ah into 41Ah cells , 2-cell modules to 4-cell modules in 2016.
I bought from Hybridauto centre website , cells from written-off 2016 Leaf, millage unknown, where it was driven unknown /maybe in Arizona heat???/
I would love to buy brand new cells or even new Leaf pack but it is not possible unless you manager at Nissan dealership.
own dealership?? You cannot exchange battery from written off Leaf for new one in legal way.
you cannot buy LG Chem pouches whatever capacity also ,
if you know how tell me.
you cannot buy SAFT cells also , they want to design pack for me , means $$$.
any ideas how to get brand new EV cells?
 
again
problem with used EV packs /bolt, volt, Leaf , etc./ that you do not know history of EV , millage cannot be verified if car cannot be turned on.
I am thinking about buying almost new smashed Leaf or Volt.
Easy for you in USA , 90% OF them are in USA , few only in Canada.
travelling thousends of kms to check out crashed car ???
 
miro13car said:
any ideas how to get brand new EV cells?
Click to expand...
If you mean EV-type cells, large capacity single cells, you can get them from EIG for at least two or three chemistries, but they wont be cheap, and youll probably have to buy a pallet full or more.

A123 cells can be had from A123 (I think thru their Stortronics site).

I dont know if any other manufacturers sell their cells outside of OEM channels.
 
you see by EV cells I mean
cells used in currently manufactured EV.
Before picking particular cell for their packs Chevy, Nissan, etc. /or contractor for them/ did extensive research/tests
As far as I know EIG cells are not used in any mass produced EV.
 
There are hybrid cars that have a mode where they are running with the gasoline auxiliary engine on. However, when they come to a stop-light, the engine is turned off during the wait. When the light turns green, the engine is rapidly re-started.

...The 5Ah LTO prismatic pouch cell, EIG Model T005, is the first of a family of LTO cells designed specifically for markets ranging from the growing 12V and 48V stop-start micro-hybrid vehicle market...
Click to expand...

https://www.electricvehiclesresearch.com/articles/5306/lithium-ion-battery-cell-for-stop-start-micro-hybrid-vehicles
 
Anyone know how to decode/identify the model year of a Leaf battery module? I bought one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Leaf-Generation-2-Battery-Module-Lithium-Ion-0-5-kWh-500-watt-4-cells/112896857363 and trying to figure out what year/chemistry it has. Definitely a 2013+ battery, listed as 500WH so 65AH, part number printed on it is 295B9-3NK0A, and the data matrix shows "295B93NK0A0JU412CH04128030NCPCBAC60111NCPCBAC60155NCPCBAC60094NCPCBAC60097".

hJkTFw1.jpg


I also bought 9.8kWH of these batteries: https://www.ebay.com/itm/800-Watt-Solar-EV-scooter-backup-battery-pack-8-Cells-Lithium-ion/112897325279 which appear to be from a Hyundai or Kia plug-in hybrid, rated at 68kW discharge for the full pack (or 5.6kW per 8s module), haven't done much testing on it yet other than a quick look over. Plan to install the full 12 modules in my Nissan Leaf as a range extender battery.
 
jkenny23.
this is 4-cell 31Ah/cell Leaf module so must be prior 2016 .
In 2016 Nissan introduced 8-cell 41Ah/cell modules in Leaf battery.
Also would love to decode those numbers
 
There is a model of Fiat that uses 5S sub-packs that are about the size of a normal 12V car starter battery. I am waiting for a response from the original poster for exact dimensions, and also the model name.

5S nominal is 3.6V X 5S = 18.0V

If fully-charged to my recommended 4.1V, then 5S X 4.1V = 20.5V


 
Apparently the Fiat 500e battery modules also come in a 6s size.
I see quite a few of these things driving around, so the supply should be good.




MODULE SPECIFICATIONS
Number of cells 6
Construction 6 in-series
Length/Total Length 11"/12.5"
Width 7"
Height 6"
Weight 28.5 lbs
Output terminal M6 nut
Amp Hour 75
Total Voltage 24vdc @64ah



CELL SPECIFICATIONS
Cell type Laminate type
Cathode material LiMn2O4 with LiNiO2
Anode material Graphite
Rated capacity (0.3C) 64 Ah
Average voltage 3.8 VDC
Maximum Voltage 4.2VDC
Minimum Voltage 3.0VDC
 
Newer may be better. I could just squeeze a little over 60ah out of the ones I tested.
Which is fine, however the seller sold them as 75ah.
Oh, and they were new. Maybe needed cycling to come up. :?
 
Here is an excellent video on removing the Prius hybrid battery. It doesn't just show the Prius battery removal, it is an excellent example of how to script a "how to" video. The actual battery removal is at 11:11 (after removing lots of car-body trim). Individual modules are exposed at 13:40. The number of cells inside each module is dependent on the model year.

Looks like Nickel-Metal-Hydride / NiMH chemistry

http://www.eaa-phev.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Battery_Specs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3RCdrh666w

[youtube]Q3RCdrh666w[/youtube]
 
What a great video instruction on how to safely remove the battery pack out of my neighbors Prius to use on my ebike project... :lol: :wink:
 
Great thread.
The Prius NiMH does have those breathing nipples on the top. I bought a full Prius battery and used it charged at 280 volts or thereabouts. This was in an open boat. Each nipple got a scrap of scotchbrite in it, and I still have of those modules working from 2013.
Leaf battery modules are nice, especially with respect to not requiring any cooling or breathing adaptions. (As I recall, the Chevy volt does need a liquid cooling system incorporated into module use/adaption.) I bought in 2015 a complete Leaf salvage battery; vendor stated 18k miles. In 2018 I sold the last of the modules and they still delivered their considerable watt-hours.
Clearly the best zap for the buck comes from salvaged EV vehicle batteries. Gathering the pertinent data is difficult, but it's the smartest way to go.
 
Yes, I bought 4Kw of Volt cells for a steal. They quickly built a 14s 13Ahr pack that takes my BBS02 750W 16 mi. approx. ( 8.6 to 50%). I've been testing individual cells and getting good consistency: so far out of some 20-25 cells i've tested only three were thrown out due to not bouncing back. I charge at 13amps, put anywhere from 12.7-13.1 Ah in. from 3.245v to 4.145v. Ir is in the 1.5-1.7 milliOhm range consistently. I used a thermocouple to see temp when first charging and discharging, but saw no noticeable temperature rise when discharging or charging at different C rates. The crux when building packs is the one or two lesser capacity cells that stop the discharge when monitoring individual cells in packs. I regularly get 12.5+ Ahr out at my 14s 25amp max discharge throttle only, no petal. Average 20 mph all the way. I balance charge up to 6s/1000w and string the packs to get 14s. Working on the 20S pack for the summer right now, built of the same cells. They were spot on 383g. ea.
 
They pull 13Ah to 3.245v... From 4.15V (MAX), the final LG rated cutoff is 2.800v.... on the LGP1 (yes, first gen) 15Ah rated Cell. I dont fully discharge, and I rate the battery I build, ( not the cell) accordingly. For a MAX charge/discharge on a single cell ( from 4.15v to 2.845v) I can pull 14,000-14,500mAh out easily, but I do not need to when I have a bunch of cells to match. If you regularly drain the cells to the min, you have cells get weaker. "13Ah" is a safe place for me to cut off, and still get mega range. Yes the ebike can pull the power out, but it doesnt know if a cell is empty before the others, causing over-discharge damage. So I call my battery a 13 Ah battery, and never run into that problem. I never run them dry. Lg might have made (manufactured) the cells, and rated them, but I built (manufactured) the battery, and rated it. Here is a NASA PDF that included these cells in a testing comparison. The LG P1 cell in on page 9. https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20110011197.pdf :
48165852_2319311251432524_4603536652990676992_n.jpg

50412324_2384408788256103_8749172089342132224_o.jpg



SO FAR IN THIS FORM FACTOR: I have seen :
LGX P1
LGX P1.5
LGX P1.7 X
LGCHEM 2.5X
 
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