Cute Q100H Autopsy & Modify 2017

I wouldn't do that.
I added ATF to a Q100 several years ago and without dedicated axle seals, it came right out and rendered my disc brake useless.
I had to take the whole thing apart to clean out the mess.
I don't understand why everyone is so worried about the Q100 "over-heating". On reasonable power, the 201 and 260 variants spin so fast they don't over-heat anything and w/ the 328, what I over-heated was the controller, specifically, I melted the phase connectors.
W/ one of my current bikes, I'm running a 201C on 14S (54.6 V nom.) w/ a 20 Amp 9-FET w/ no heating prob.s and weigh 250 lb.s and live in TUcson. Haven't used it yet in the dead of summer yet, but I'm not worried.
Why "fix" a prob. you haven't experienced yet?
And if it does melt or cook something, that's just the Ebike Gods telling you, you need a bigger motor.

motomech said:

I wouldn't do that.
I added ATF to a Q100 several years ago and without dedicated axle seals, it came right out and rendered my disc brake useless.
I had to take the whole thing apart to clean out the mess.

Click to expand...

First... I'm not using ATF. And second,... I installed axle seals. As expected, I don't have leakage.

motomech said:

Why "fix" a prob. you haven't experienced yet?
And if it does melt or cook something, that's just the Ebike Gods telling you, you need a bigger motor.

Click to expand...

The changes I have made are solely intended to improve efficiency and longevity - Makes no sense to me to install a lower efficient "bigger motor", when this one has been bench tested to 1.4kW... and the stator never reached 75c.... on a steady 75V nominal diet.

Papa said:

I'm not using ATF. And second,... I installed axle seals. As expected, I don't have leakage.

Click to expand...

Maybe I missed it up thread, but what are you using instead of ATF? And are the axle seals really neccesary? If so, can you show a picture or a part number? I'm really interested in your approach and results with these motors.

Q100H

Sorry to raise this thread from the dead!

To access and remove the rotor, when separating the two halves of the stator casing, after removing the drive-side stub-axle and the planet gears, then turning the motor over and removing the the six screws around the edge of the stator casing cover, does anyone remember if you need to remove anything else before you can separate the two halves of the stator casing in order to access and remove the rotor?

Is there anything under the cable-side stub-axle that retains the rotor like a circlip or similar? Or after the screws are removed, is it now just the interference fit of the rotor bearings in the stator-casing that holds the two halves of the stator-casing together?

Do you need a puller to remove the rotor, or can you push out the bearings without one?