jonnydrive said:
Thats exactly what fixed gears means, so you do indeed have fixed gears on your bike. :/
new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
- Thread starter emaayan
- Start date
Thats exactly what fixed gears means, so you do indeed have fixed gears on your bike. :/
jonnydrive
100 W
Tommm said:
just the chainrings
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Thanks for data on DT
Chalo,
What do you mean by 'fixed gears" as Amberwolf says a welded freehub to hold the cassette is having fixed gears? Would having no fixed gears in the drivetrain be a continuous transmission?
DingusMcGee said:
I think by fixed he meant as a fixie bike, that always spins the pedals when in motion, and you slow down by putting force on them the opposite direction(as the pedal comes up from the rear).
It appears this is not the case as the chainring can spin independently from the pedals.
I'm curious for the coaxial bike(mine is in customs) this could mean you could possibly have regen while still having access to a selection of gears.
You mentioned the two chainring mounting positions on the motor work differently. If the inner one with the pedals can freewheel while the motor is engaged, if the outer one could be made to always be connected to the axle shaft, could make regen straightforward as the controllers supports it.
Not sure if there is any more freewheels in the gearbox to complicate it.
Chalo
100 TW
DingusMcGee said:
I meant that when the wheel is moving, it carries the chain. Yes, it's different than a traditional fixed gear bike in that it doesn't carry the pedals along and you can't force power in reverse. But whatever drag there is in the chain and front overrunning clutch will tend to pull the derailleur cage forward and slacken the top run of the chain. I know my BBS02 would be impossible to live with in such an arrangement, because the chainring's drag is greater than the derailleur's ability to hold tension in the chain.
If the front freeewheel is totally free running, then the system could potentially work pretty well, like Shimano's Positron/Front Freewheel system from around 1980, which was the first commercially widespread index shifting regime. But the chain tension applied by the derailleur must be able to completely overcome any tendency by the chainring to resist being rotated.
For what it's worth, Positron/FF had a rear gear cluster that didn't ratchet freely, but did have a stiff one-way clutch that would allow it to release if something got stuck in the chain. Johnnydrive doesn't have that, so he needs to take special care not to let anything (like pants for instance) get caught up in a chain that won't stop until the bike stops. Even just a caught shoelace has been enough to throw fixed gear riders down in the street.
jonnydrive
100 W
Chalo said:
Exactly, this is the point.
The DingusMcGee build do not have the derailleur cage but a chain tensioner and it works. Are so different a rear derailleur and a chain tensioner? Could be a modded derailleur put enough force to oppose the dragging force?
During my first tests I was suffering chain stuck (very bed situation, you need to stop the bike immediately to avoid the derailleur breaking), I found two solution to limit the phenomenon:
- providing a better guide for the chainring by building a simple aluminium chain inner (in the following pictures, it is installed on the right side of the smallest chainring @22t)
- mounting a rude chain guide on the upper side of the chain for keep in position the chain also during the slacken
In the next first test-ride only the chain bouncing problem was happened
Attachments
DingusMcGee
10 kW
My chain tensioners work quie well as they at most have to take up the chain slack of < one link. A long swing arm derailleur like the SRAM EX1 running an 11-48T cassette and a 32-44T front chain ring set may need to take up (48 - 11) + (44-32) = 49 or 24.5 links to range through all the gears. This calculation assumes the chain covers 1/2 the chain rings.
DingusMcGee
10 kW
I suppose that there is a way to hook up regen on the coaxial but there is not a lot of room.
But regen? A fuking nuisance when you brake going around a corner. If you want to reduce your green foot print move to a smaller house or get rid of your car (if applicable).
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Tommm,
I am running Shimano Deore XT MB 8000 on the Elite Coax. No overheating problems yet.
I am running Shimano Deore XT MB 8000 on the Elite Coax. No overheating problems yet.
jonnydrive
100 W
Tommm said:
Yes but only with 32t / 42t chainring,actually I am using 22t / 40t.
I don't know if I ride hard or there is something wrong in my build....but with this setup during 15 mins of hard-offroad-climb the engine became hot (difficult to keep the hand on):
- Fat Bike rear wheel 26' + 4' of rubber
- KBS72121X set at 50% of max power (presumably 45-55 Amp)
- bike geared front 22t rear 36t
- Engine geared 14t engine 48 crankset
Does something have a similar build?
jonnydrive
100 W
Skaiwerd said:
Thanks Skaiwerd,
it is reassuring to know that I am not the only one experiencing engine heating.
I am going to granny the off road gearing (maybe 40 or 42t).
The Cycone 3k is an amazing piece of hardware, there is no comparison with the cyclone 1680w (I have had a lot of trouble with it) in term of torque and noise. It is a shame that there is not a temperature sensor..
DingusMcGee
10 kW
RETARDED!
Nothing could be much easier, remove 4 bolts on the left side motor cover and glue thermistor to the lamanates.
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Why overheating??
Hard Riding?
Give me a break. This is lame reasoning that does not address the cause of the problem.
Unless ambient temps are over 80F, you are in too high of a gear for the torque required.
Simple solution: Keep motor rpms high...
By using lower gears, dah?
My study was done using the 40 amp controller and my body weight on the ebike... At 60 amp what temp?? the ambient temp would be lower than 80F.
Hard Riding?
Give me a break. This is lame reasoning that does not address the cause of the problem.
Unless ambient temps are over 80F, you are in too high of a gear for the torque required.
Simple solution: Keep motor rpms high...
By using lower gears, dah?
My study was done using the 40 amp controller and my body weight on the ebike... At 60 amp what temp?? the ambient temp would be lower than 80F.
jonnydrive
100 W
DingusMcGee said:
Assuming that I am retarderd, please clearly describe the process to put a temperature sensor on the motor explaining: the procedure, the thermistor and the glue suggested, the best position for the sensor, the cabling and the path to avoid a messy work, maybe with some pics or reference link.
This can be a good contribute to the thread
Couldn’t you affix it to the outside of the motor and make adjustments to compensate? For us non cycle analyst users would there be a way using Adriano or pie to set it up and cut controller power or throttle power? Oh wait there’s this...
Anyone know what the temps would be? A set point as to when to kill the motor before damage happens.
Anyone know what the temps would be? A set point as to when to kill the motor before damage happens.
Attachments
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Code:
Johnnydrive,
DingusMcGee wrote: ↑Thu May 03, 2018 5:30 am
It is a shame that there is not a temperature sensor..
RETARDED!
Nothing could be much easier, remove 4 bolts on the left side motor cover and glue thermistor to the lamanates.
Assuming that I am retarderd, please clearly describe the process to put a temperature sensor on the motor explaining: the procedure, the thermistor and the glue suggested, the best position for the sensor, the cabling and the path to avoid a messy work, maybe with some pics or reference link.Such descriptions as you request have already been posted on this thread by several people. Go Find Use search tool? When searching for "temperature sensor", you will likely pull up your complaint, "It is a shame....". How useful?
Retarded -- meaning -- slowed down
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Skaiwerd,
I have used a fish tank temp controller made by Chinese on eBay -- $12
I have used a fish tank temp controller made by Chinese on eBay -- $12
DingusMcGee said:
Anything on maximum motor temperature? Even a temperature that one would say no motor could survive. What good is a sensor and related electronics if there is nothing to go by? Even a “ I cooked mine at 350 deg c” is something, I’d set mine to 300 degrees centigrade then to start. Yeah that’s hot not real motor termps. Sorry if this is in old posts.
jonnydrive
100 W
Skaiwerd said:
good question,
Kelly KBS-X provides a quite wide range of "overhearing", from the manual:
"(2)Controller Stop Output Temperature
Value range: 60℃~170℃"
on KLS 130°C seems to be the default
"High Temp Cut Out °C: Motor High Temp Cut Out, nominal value 130°C. Range: 60~170"
I know, it is not so helpful.... a plastic gear could sustain 130°C ? for how long?
it will be useful known an overhearing temperature for the cyclone 3k, and also a delta temperature for an external temperature sensor
jonnydrive
100 W
spinningmagnets said:
Here a partial answer to my question from an authoritative source...
