E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hello

I have a question for anyone that has stripped successfully a b52. I have a 2015 b52 that i want the frame to be repainted due to damage. I m in the process of taking it apart so i would like to ask in order to avoid any damage. Below are my questions for which i would appreciate your replies:

a. How to i safely(without damaging) remove the cycle analyst from the frame (please check the photo)
b. How to i remove the spring from dmm rear shock (the spring only)
c. Is removing the front fork(888) straight forward as it looks or is there any trick i should be careful of.
d. Do i remove the the gear shifting cables , from the hand shifter to pass them through the frame? or do i remove them from the gearbox?. Is there something i should be careful of ?

Many thanks
 

Attachments

  • image4.jpeg
    image4.jpeg
    36.9 KB · Views: 2,566
  • image2.jpeg
    image2.jpeg
    27.3 KB · Views: 2,566
  • image3.jpeg
    image3.jpeg
    44.1 KB · Views: 2,566
  • image1.jpeg
    image1.jpeg
    27.1 KB · Views: 2,566
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
I keep hearing about a new Bomber battery, but I can't find any information about it. What's the scoop?
Click to expand...
22s (92 volts HOC) and 24Ah with a 100amp capable BMS. The scoop is more volts and less volt sag equals more go fast :D
Click to expand...

Hi folks,
Rix, is the chemistry still LiFePo4 or Li-ion as I understand the Fighter now is?
Cheers,
Clinton
 
Athaneco said:
Hello

I have a question for anyone that has stripped successfully a b52. I have a 2015 b52 that i want the frame to be repainted due to damage. I m in the process of taking it apart so i would like to ask in order to avoid any damage. Below are my questions for which i would appreciate your replies:

a. How to i safely(without damaging) remove the cycle analyst from the frame (please check the photo)

b. How to i remove the spring from dmm rear shock (the spring only)

c. Is removing the front fork(888) straight forward as it looks or is there any trick i should be careful of.
d. Do i remove the the gear shifting cables , from the hand shifter to pass them through the frame? or do i remove them from the gearbox?. Is there something i should be careful of ?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

a.probably same as CA attachment method?...bloody strong double sided tape...be carefull!!

b. undo spring preload collet...compress spring using spring compressor or very strong friend...slide off slotted collet.

c. same as a bicycle...undo headtube retaining screw...loosen and remove stem...loosen and remove top triple clamp...slide fork out bottom being careful not to lose ball bearings/races..use soft dolly to hammer out bearing cups pressed into frame...I recall mine were a tight fit and took some caution but firm hitting.

d. shift cables on a drum assembly that screws [three screws] to the side of the gearbox [either first or ninth gear when removing?]...avoid removing cables from the shift drum and I also don't suggest you pull apart the gearbox beyond removing the shift drum...very easy to make a mistake and messy to get right again particularly if one is not mechanically minded/skilled!

Cheers
 
Thanks CJonaBttlrckt.
Only tricky part as you mentioned was to remove the CA .With a little assistance of a blow dryer it came off. But double sided sticker was destroyed completely. Not much harm caused though. I guess they are supposed to be one use.
Regarding the gear shift, yes i removed the shift drum from the vbox and passed it through the hole of the frame, that was designed just enough to pass through.
After i stripped the bike to its bare frame, i think stealth did a very good job on this and maybe that explains why it still is (several years already) one of the best bikes in this category. The frame is just right, with no extra weight/excess material used/with all screws easily accessible/safety in mind/ i think even if a 1 or 2 frame screws would fail simultaneously , the bike wouldn't break apart .
 

Attachments

  • frame stealth.jpg
    frame stealth.jpg
    173.6 KB · Views: 2,519
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
I keep hearing about a new Bomber battery, but I can't find any information about it. What's the scoop?
Click to expand...
22s (92 volts HOC) and 24Ah with a 100amp capable BMS. The scoop is more volts and less volt sag equals more go fast :D
Click to expand...

Hi folks,
Rix, is the chemistry still LiFePo4 or Li-ion as I understand the Fighter now is?
Cheers,
Clinton
Click to expand...

No, both chemistries are LI Ion based. The Fighter is a 14s 30Ah pack now and not any bigger than the older 16S 18Ah Lifepo4 pack they used to run.
 
Hi

I have a question . I have two b52s one is a late 2015 and one is 2018 model. Since they are 2 i am thinking to set one (the 2015 one) for on road use i.e. to install the crazy bob tyres. Rims on both b52 are the new type. How do the crazy bobs handle off road terrain? Do they pinch flat easily? Reason i ask is that in case i lend my bike to a friend to go a little off road too along with the other b52 , will it be difficult and risky for a pinch flat. I know the duros are duros, havent had a flat tire for a long time even after much offroad abuse
 
It lives again!!!!
after:
1 rebuild of the motor, including rewiring w thicker gauge wire and better connectors, bearings and gaskets...
2 injections of ferro fluid for cooling
1 set of hub sinks
2 times rebuilding of the rear wheel.... one time it went and tacoed itself on the short end of a jump. how did that happen????
2 sets of front forks now marzocchi 888 with different spring and oil
2 rebuilds / revalves of the rear shock
3 different springs for the rear shock
1 new braking system ala saints. a bit of custom work to get everything to play nice..but good god do they rock mighty!!
3 different paint jobs (grey, plum crazy purple, and now line light) some one has a thing for early 70's mopars....
2 seats
1 custom telescoping seat post
1 rebuilding/welding and bracing of the frame
2 rebuilds of the vboxx including new swing arm bearings (its like clockwork orange in there!) actually its not all that bad...
2 different set of grips
2 sets of bars
2 sets of freewheels and a rebuild of one...
1 temp sensor added with temp rollback and cutoff, had to mod/solder the cycle analyst for that one ahh memories....
1 thick tube bicycle on the front and a standard moto in the rear w moto tire on the rear running at 15psi front and rear never had a flat yet...
2 sets of crank arms...
1 new set of pedals saints....

Cane it an maintain it.... ride, break, improve, repeat......If anyone has questions about the vboxx hit me up... its really not bad to take apart..

werd fellas!
 
Checking in, it’s been a while. I am riding sparingly but determined to change that this summer following a hip surgery last year and realizing how much therapy I get from riding Stealth.
I also want to learn more about how my bike works technically. Any advice on good websites / videos to look up regarding electric bike technology and inparticular the Stealth Bomber?
My #366 is still going strong with only just over 500 Miles on it in less than 4 years but I have noticed a drop in power. I guess that’s normal for aging batteries huh.
Incidentally anyone know what is the number of Bombers in circulation these days? Just curious. Cheers, Bex
 
1abv said:
It lives again!!!!
after:
1 rebuild of the motor, including rewiring w thicker gauge wire and better connectors, bearings and gaskets...
2 injections of ferro fluid for cooling
1 set of hub sinks
2 times rebuilding of the rear wheel.... one time it went and tacoed itself on the short end of a jump. how did that happen????
2 sets of front forks now marzocchi 888 with different spring and oil
2 rebuilds / revalves of the rear shock
3 different springs for the rear shock
1 new braking system ala saints. a bit of custom work to get everything to play nice..but good god do they rock mighty!!
3 different paint jobs (grey, plum crazy purple, and now line light) some one has a thing for early 70's mopars....
2 seats
1 custom telescoping seat post
1 rebuilding/welding and bracing of the frame
2 rebuilds of the vboxx including new swing arm bearings (its like clockwork orange in there!) actually its not all that bad...
2 different set of grips
2 sets of bars
2 sets of freewheels and a rebuild of one...
1 temp sensor added with temp rollback and cutoff, had to mod/solder the cycle analyst for that one ahh memories....
1 thick tube bicycle on the front and a standard moto in the rear w moto tire on the rear running at 15psi front and rear never had a flat yet...
2 sets of crank arms...
1 new set of pedals saints....

Cane it an maintain it.... ride, break, improve, repeat......If anyone has questions about the vboxx hit me up... its really not bad to take apart..

werd fellas!
Click to expand...

I have a question regarding the V-boxx: did you get replacements gaskets or other parts to rebuild the V-boxx?
 
I have never had to deal w getting new gaskets etc. they are made out of a rubber material that is made to be re-used. and even if it broke I would just chuck some silicone or yamahbond in there and call it a day.

As far as getting internal parts for the vboxx its not easy.. Your best bet is to get them from stealth or find someone w spares. Even then its a pain in the ass...Thankfully the internals of that thing are pretty strong. Interesting note, some of the internal parts are hand stamped with construction dates and initials on them...

If you follow D-logic youtube vid its pretty easy. I did a few mods to what he said, for example I made cardboard "templates" of the side cases, drew w marker all of the locations of the bolts and pushed the actual bolts through the cardboard so I would never loose them or put the wrong bolts in the wrong place.

The most challenging part is the reassembly and making sure the detents on the "clutches" line up with the bearings on the aluminum d shaped rods and the other part is aligning the square ended shifter rod with the shift cable assembly. The clutches have very fine teeth on them as does the shifter rod and can be moved out of place easily.

why are you taking yours apart?
 
I lost 1st, 2nd and 4th gears. I mean when I select these gears nothing happen and the pedals spins forward freely, I guess the clutches do not engages for some reason. I also have a grease leak from the center of the chain spur gear that I fixed with a rubber stopper.

20170610_211843_1.jpg
 
bigbore said:
I lost 1st, 2nd and 4th gears. I mean when I select these gears nothing happen and the pedals spins forward freely, I guess the clutches do not engages for some reason. I also have a grease leak from the center of the chain spur gear that I fixed with a rubber stopper.

20170610_211843_1.jpg
Click to expand...

Martin, aka Dlogic made these repair vids for the Vboxx. They are awesome. You should be able to figure out why 1, 2, and 4 aren't working.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zgog-W3QLVw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2O1F0k3g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pruRTLlFsiA
 
HI, I have some questions about an older Stealth fighter. I am considering buying a Stealth fighter with no battery. I believe it was number 56? Can anyone point me to where I can find the specs for battery compartment size , how many volts the controller can take etc. My plan would be to build my own battery out of 18650's. I have an outboard motor that can handle a 14s battery (58.8v) and I would like to know if this would be a safe voltage for an old fighter.

Thanks
 
heynow9991 said:
HI, I have some questions about an older Stealth fighter. I am considering buying a Stealth fighter with no battery. I believe it was number 56? Can anyone point me to where I can find the specs for battery compartment size , how many volts the controller can take etc. My plan would be to build my own battery out of 18650's. I have an outboard motor that can handle a 14s battery (58.8v) and I would like to know if this would be a safe voltage for an old fighter.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, 58.8 volts is safe for your Fighter. Fighter #56 is going to have the older larger frame. If my memory serves me correctly, that frame may have been designed for the older Headway Cells. I think that bike was manufactured in the later half of 2010 or early 2011. If you don't buy this bike, could you PM me the seller's info? I would consider restoring a classic Fighter.
 
bigbore said:
I lost 1st, 2nd and 4th gears. I mean when I select these gears nothing happen and the pedals spins forward freely, I guess the clutches do not engages for some reason. I also have a grease leak from the center of the chain spur gear that I fixed with a rubber stopper.

20170610_211843_1.jpg
Click to expand...
Bigbore check this diagram out...
27119733507_ddcf078a5f_b.jpg


you may have an issue with center gear on the shaft that your having the leaking issue with. (look at the diagram. the shaft on the top of the diagram) How did the issue happen with the gears spinning? did you hit something? or happen at once? or was it gradual? The leaking has 3 possible spots that I can think of. The gasket under the large chromed bolt in your picture or either of the side cases/bearings where the shaft rests. The shaft is hollow and runs the width of the vboxx.
 
1abv said:
bigbore said:
I lost 1st, 2nd and 4th gears. I mean when I select these gears nothing happen and the pedals spins forward freely, I guess the clutches do not engages for some reason. I also have a grease leak from the center of the chain spur gear that I fixed with a rubber stopper.

20170610_211843_1.jpg
Click to expand...
Bigbore check this diagram out...
27119733507_ddcf078a5f_b.jpg


you may have an issue with center gear on the shaft that your having the leaking issue with. (look at the diagram. the shaft on the top of the diagram) How did the issue happen with the gears spinning? did you hit something? or happen at once? or was it gradual? The leaking has 3 possible spots that I can think of. The gasket under the large chromed bolt in your picture or either of the side cases/bearings where the shaft rests. The shaft is hollow and runs the width of the vboxx.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice, the issue with the gears happened gradually. It started with 4th gear first than also 1st and 2nd gone bad. Looking at Dlogic's video I guess the clutches do not engages.
 
Yea if it was a sudden thing It could have been a gear but hopefully its just a misalignment issue of the teeth on the clutches which is not that hard to fix.
 
1abv said:
I have never had to deal w getting new gaskets etc. they are made out of a rubber material that is made to be re-used. and even if it broke I would just chuck some silicone or yamahbond in there and call it a day.

As far as getting internal parts for the vboxx its not easy.. Your best bet is to get them from stealth or find someone w spares. Even then its a pain in the ass...Thankfully the internals of that thing are pretty strong. Interesting note, some of the internal parts are hand stamped with construction dates and initials on them...
Click to expand...

But am I wrong or are you the one who needed a new gear?
 
Bexxer said:
Checking in, it’s been a while. I am riding sparingly but determined to change that this summer following a hip surgery last year and realizing how much therapy I get from riding Stealth.
I also want to learn more about how my bike works technically. Any advice on good websites / videos to look up regarding electric bike technology and inparticular the Stealth Bomber?
My #366 is still going strong with only just over 500 Miles on it in less than 4 years but I have noticed a drop in power. I guess that’s normal for aging batteries huh.
Incidentally anyone know what is the number of Bombers in circulation these days? Just curious. Cheers, Bex
Click to expand...

That is normal for a battery to loose performance after 4 years. My Bomber's battery is over 6 years old now, I got the amps turned down to 40 and it sags to 70 volts hot off the charger. Still working though.
 
bigbore said:
1abv said:
I have never had to deal w getting new gaskets etc. they are made out of a rubber material that is made to be re-used. and even if it broke I would just chuck some silicone or yamahbond in there and call it a day.

As far as getting internal parts for the vboxx its not easy.. Your best bet is to get them from stealth or find someone w spares. Even then its a pain in the ass...Thankfully the internals of that thing are pretty strong. Interesting note, some of the internal parts are hand stamped with construction dates and initials on them...
Click to expand...

But am I wrong or are you the one who needed a new gear?
Click to expand...


You are correct sir! so trying to get parts through Suntour was basically getting kicked repeatedly in the junk...painful and useless... Stealth was better, So my situation was a broekn tooth on a gear. initially I got the broken gear tooth welded up and I shaped the tooth back to the point that you couldn't tell it from the non welded. While all of that was going on I was dealing w stealth who in turn was dealing with Suntour. Eventually (months later) I got some parts from stealth because they happen to have a Vboxx kicking around.

How the Vboxx repair is technically supposed to work is you take the vboxx off the bike, send it to stealth who sends it to suntour (in Taiwan) they fix it and send it back to you. P.S. you wont know how much it will cost until they see it. I did not want to send mine overseas so i was just going to fix it myself and I happen to get lucky that stealth had some spare parts kicking around.. I wouldn't count on it though..

In your position I would take it apart, see if it needs anything, if it does get in touch w stealth..
 
brumbrum said:
Anyone know if DNM rear coil springs are the same internal diameter as Cane creek and Fox?
Click to expand...

If your looking for a new spring these guys will make what you need.
http://www.cannonracecraft.com

If u are not in the states I'm sure there is maker around you. I've had them make me 2 Springs already. Great guys to work with
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
enduroebikes.com 2 versions?
Replies
1
Views
90
amberwolf
amberwolf
D
Build a bike to commute not sure what I need.
Replies
13
Views
485
E-HP
E-HP
T
E-bikes are arguably worse than electric cars
2 3 4 5
Replies
111
Views
12,309
calab
C
B
    • Like
Arduino Virtual Flywheel Throttle controller
Replies
10
Views
472
DingusMcGee
D
H
Building not an eBike.
Replies
17
Views
654
heavylift
H
Back
Top