48 Volt Rear Hub Build
- Thread starter EbikeAus
- Start date
Ok, I hooked it all up and the back wheel spins. Happy days 
Just have to finalise mounting the battery, controller and some cable management.. then should be golden.
Not sure whether to use the brake disconnects/ levers that came with the kit. Do you guys think this is a necessity?
Just have to finalise mounting the battery, controller and some cable management.. then should be golden.
Not sure whether to use the brake disconnects/ levers that came with the kit. Do you guys think this is a necessity?
wturber
1 MW
EbikeAus said:Ok, I hooked it all up and the back wheel spins. Happy days
Just have to finalise mounting the battery, controller and some cable management.. then should be golden.
Not sure whether to use the brake disconnects/ levers that came with the kit. Do you guys think this is a necessity?
If not the ones included in the kit, then some other scheme/system that cuts the power to the motor when the brakes are applied or your hands aren't on the handlebars etc.
There's a lot of torque from that motor and it can get out of control fast. Especially when you aren't sitting on the bike. Good use habits are probably the most important thing. But it'd be nice to know that grabbing a brake lever will disconnect power.
Hi all,
Have been super busy! Putting our hoise on the market soon and had heaps to do. I have found time to get out for a couple of rides on this build, around 20 kms clocked up so far.
Will post a completed photo soon.
It's running great and the battery is performing very well, have put a couple of small charges on it and all good.
I have a couple more batteries almost ready to build, 14s 5p LG HE2 and 14s 4p 25R more on those later.
One thing that's not great is the brakes. I'm using the levers that came with the kit and it looks like I need new cables with a larger barrel head?
Can anyone confirm this and do the kit levers use an 8mm barrel head?
Have been super busy! Putting our hoise on the market soon and had heaps to do. I have found time to get out for a couple of rides on this build, around 20 kms clocked up so far.
Will post a completed photo soon.
It's running great and the battery is performing very well, have put a couple of small charges on it and all good.
I have a couple more batteries almost ready to build, 14s 5p LG HE2 and 14s 4p 25R more on those later.
One thing that's not great is the brakes. I'm using the levers that came with the kit and it looks like I need new cables with a larger barrel head?
Can anyone confirm this and do the kit levers use an 8mm barrel head?
I just discovered a couple of other features the voilamart hub kit has...by accident :lol:
It's not mentioned in the very minimal manual but if you press and hold the down arrow on the button pad it goes into walk mode, so you can walk beside the bike and it propels itself, another long press to disengage.
Also if you press and hold top button it turns on headlight, if you have one. Yet to test this but I just bought some headlights so I may use it
It's not mentioned in the very minimal manual but if you press and hold the down arrow on the button pad it goes into walk mode, so you can walk beside the bike and it propels itself, another long press to disengage.
Also if you press and hold top button it turns on headlight, if you have one. Yet to test this but I just bought some headlights so I may use it
Went out for a 15km ride this afternoon, bike is going great.
55 km on flat. 40 km up hill without pedaling, so pretty happy with that.
I'm pretty sure i'll need to take the controller out of the bag though as it was almost too hot to touch, which will most likely kill it before too long.
One option I have thought of doing is cutting a vent hole in forward corner of triangle bag and one at other end to get some air flow over the controller. I saw this done somewhere on here but can't find it now.
Where would you mount the controllerif this was your bike?
55 km on flat. 40 km up hill without pedaling, so pretty happy with that.
I'm pretty sure i'll need to take the controller out of the bag though
as it was almost too hot to touch, which will most likely kill it before too long.One option I have thought of doing is cutting a vent hole in forward corner of triangle bag and one at other end to get some air flow over the controller. I saw this done somewhere on here but can't find it now.
Where would you mount the controllerif this was your bike?
torker
100 kW
Looks tight but on the seatpost would make all the cabling nice and short. Might want to build a deflector for the mud/water. Or right in front of the battery bag, nice looking bike btw..
markz
100 TW
How does that front mud guard help out?
I have a full length one thats a tad too narrow and rubs on tire.
I have a full length one thats a tad too narrow and rubs on tire.
I decided the best place for the controller is on the tube under the bag.
I hit it with a couple of coats of flat black. This brings the cables as close to the battery and bag as possible.
Not ideal but at least I won't fry the controller
I might add some silicone to the joints and where the wires come out just in case.
I hit it with a couple of coats of flat black. This brings the cables as close to the battery and bag as possible.
Not ideal but at least I won't fry the controller
I might add some silicone to the joints and where the wires come out just in case.
Philaphlous
1 kW
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2017
- Messages
- 431
How you like the suspension seat post? I haven't ridden my bike enough to test it out.
Lurkin
100 kW
Mudhugger guard would be super nice, but its a pretty expensive option.
A guard on the front wheel is the most effective way to keep water off the controller. Failing that a guard over the controller is an option.
If all else fails, and you are caught out in the rain - pinch a dog poo bag from a dog park + electrical tape = water tight....
A guard on the front wheel is the most effective way to keep water off the controller. Failing that a guard over the controller is an option.
If all else fails, and you are caught out in the rain - pinch a dog poo bag from a dog park + electrical tape = water tight....
Help I need new brakes!
I'm loving this bike but it has one major flaw!
I currently have mechanical discs and they suck. After using hydraulics on my Giant Roam conversion it's hard to be happy with mech discs.
I'm looking at these as a place to start
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F161848243345
I will probably replace the front first and keep the rear as it has the motor cut out switch.
Are there levers I can buy with the switch, I can only find them for bafang?
Or are they easy enough to diy?
Just saw these, has anyone used them?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173129487626
Thanks
I'm loving this bike but it has one major flaw!
I currently have mechanical discs and they suck. After using hydraulics on my Giant Roam conversion it's hard to be happy with mech discs.
I'm looking at these as a place to start
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F161848243345
I will probably replace the front first and keep the rear as it has the motor cut out switch.
Are there levers I can buy with the switch, I can only find them for bafang?
Or are they easy enough to diy?
Just saw these, has anyone used them?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173129487626
Thanks
Chalo
100 TW
Are your mechanical discs generic cheap crap? There are good and horrible mechanical discs just like there are good and horrible hydraulics. (But if you give a hearty tug on the lines of both, you'll find that the mechanical ones work a lot better.)
(Also, you'll find that touching a cable to your brake rotor doesn't harm anything, while touching brake fluid to your rotor makes the brake very lame.).
Anyway, the cable brakes that are worth a damn these days are Avid BB7 and TRP Spyke. I'd try those before going for hydraulic, magnetic, pneumatic, optical, nuclear, or any other needlessly gizmodic brakes.
(Also, you'll find that touching a cable to your brake rotor doesn't harm anything, while touching brake fluid to your rotor makes the brake very lame.).
Anyway, the cable brakes that are worth a damn these days are Avid BB7 and TRP Spyke. I'd try those before going for hydraulic, magnetic, pneumatic, optical, nuclear, or any other needlessly gizmodic brakes.
Chalo said:
Thanks mate
Yes I think they are a pretty basic shimano set.
It does seem to make more sense staying with mech discs, that's what I'll do.
So with the two models you mentioned do you know off hand which will have a thinner calliper body as I'm fairly tight between caliper body and motor?
I'll just order discs and calipers and use the cut off levers that came with the kit for now. Would like some nicer ones at some stage if they can be had.
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