New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
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casainho
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The KT LCD3 shows information that original TSDZ2 can't show, like battery voltage, motor usage power, etc. It is also cheaper. Also it is also easy to develop the firmware for it, so it is like a blank sheet of paper that we can program from scratch with our algorithms and showing and have input of information we want.echew said:casainho said:Finally got it!! TSDZ2 motor controller is now sending the motor current to LCD
Have been watching all this with interest and, excuse my ignorance, but what is so good about the LCD you are trying to get to work?
KT LCD3 is also very popular and easily found on every online shop. For instance, PSWPower sells TSDZ2 kits, Bafang kits and KT kits.
Great work, casainho!! 
Congratulations also on being able to hack the TSDZ2 controller code - that is a great step!
Regarding the LCD3 display, the XH18 is actually much more versatile - it is a complete blank slate, no predetermined fields that you have to use. You have a high-res color LCD screen with which you can do anything at all, in choosing what to display and where. You could have 16 assist levels if you wanted (and assuming the controller could handle that). You could have a variety of power, current and battery parameters displayed all at once. In any color you want. Heck you could play space invaders while you ride!
I am bogged down in other stuff and am not able to do much at this stage.
Congratulations also on being able to hack the TSDZ2 controller code - that is a great step!Regarding the LCD3 display, the XH18 is actually much more versatile - it is a complete blank slate, no predetermined fields that you have to use. You have a high-res color LCD screen with which you can do anything at all, in choosing what to display and where. You could have 16 assist levels if you wanted (and assuming the controller could handle that). You could have a variety of power, current and battery parameters displayed all at once. In any color you want. Heck you could play space invaders while you ride!
I am bogged down in other stuff and am not able to do much at this stage.
casainho
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Ideally, I would do for VLCD5, because I prefer the form factor. For instance, someone wrote the XH18 does not fit on some handle bar.jur said:Great work, casainho!!
Regarding the LCD3 display, the XH18 is actually much more versatile - it is a complete blank slate, no predetermined fields that you have to use. You have a high-res color LCD screen with which you can do anything at all, in choosing what to display and where. You could have 16 assist levels if you wanted (and assuming the controller could handle that). You could have a variety of power, current and battery parameters displayed all at once. In any color you want. Heck you could play space invaders while you ride!
I am bogged down in other stuff and am not able to do much at this stage.
Also I don't own a XH18 and so I assume it can't be programmed just like VLCD5!
Also, I am also developing firmware for KT motor controllers and so firmware for KT LCD3 was something I would like to do before and I knew already this LCD can be programmed as it is use just the same microcontroller as TSDZ2 and KT motor controllers, so are just the same cheap tools to program it.
casainho
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Assist level now works. I wanted to show the brake symbol on LCD but turns out that TSDZ2 motor control don't send the brake state to LCD :-( -- yes, I am using brakes and I really can't live with brakes connected.
0 assist level is the same as motor turned off.
NOTE: the values shown on LCD are twice of the real value due to a small mistake I did on the code.
[youtube]lGd828Sk7tk[/youtube]
0 assist level is the same as motor turned off.
NOTE: the values shown on LCD are twice of the real value due to a small mistake I did on the code.
[youtube]lGd828Sk7tk[/youtube]
casainho
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I did some quick tests on an accentuated climb.
Assist level 1: max around 6 amps
Assist level 2: max around 12 amps
Assist level 3: max around 18.4 amps
Assist level 4: max around 18.4 amps
Maybe the difference between 3 and 4 is speed limit and not current limit.
Assist level 1: max around 6 amps
Assist level 2: max around 12 amps
Assist level 3: max around 18.4 amps
Assist level 4: max around 18.4 amps
Maybe the difference between 3 and 4 is speed limit and not current limit.
eyebyesickle
10 kW
casainho said:
Nice,
I think the difference between 3 and 4 is torque sensitivity, where you have to push harder on 3 for the full 18amps, but you don't have to push as hard on assist level 4 for the 18 amps
m3lonbr3ad
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eyebyesickle said:
My experience agrees with this.
jbalat
10 kW
I have the 36v 15A version..
Is it possible to get it to 18 or 20 Amps ?
Can we also increase the cadence or is this a limitation of the windings on the motor ?
Is it possible to get it to 18 or 20 Amps ?
Can we also increase the cadence or is this a limitation of the windings on the motor ?
casainho
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Hi jbalat. Thank you for your videos on youtube about TSDZ2!jbalat said:
So, to resume:
On my EEPROM, I have the following values:
I think it is the 0x11 value, which 0x11 in decinal is 17, so 17 amps. I did read 18 amps but the things are not perfect so some were there may be an offset/error. You can try decrease/increase that 3rd byte on EEPROM and test.
I put the firmware of my 48V and 36V motors (firmware is just equal), eeprom and options bytes files. Just in case we need. You just need to play with the EEPROM file as it is were that option is saved.
Here the firmware files:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TongSheng_TSDZ2_motor_controller_firmware
John and Cecil said:Oh yes I see your problem
Had to use some 3mm spacers on a threaded hub in order to improove the chainline a bit. Will see how long it will take to strip the threads while riding on hills.
casainho
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The nyon blue gear is start to failing, at least I got that sound when my failed. Open the motor and inspect the blue gear and see if you spot the teeth with some different shape.matte2k said:
I moved to metal gear and also installed the brake sensors -- I am very happy now
echew
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Does anyone have a list of suggested 'prerequisites' for fitting the TSDZ2?
I have a 3 week wait until my motor/battery arrives and would like to have everything else ready so I can hit the floor running (cycling).
For example, my own list so far:
How can I calculate the optimum chainring ratio for my bike so that I can order this in advance?
Cheers
Edit: Thanks to the people below - I've added in their suggestions to the list
I have a 3 week wait until my motor/battery arrives and would like to have everything else ready so I can hit the floor running (cycling).
For example, my own list so far:
- Donor bike (with bottom bracket removed - required 8mm tool + external bearing bottom bracket tool for my Shimano hollotech)
- Strong lock (or two)
- Metal gear (optional - to replace weaker blue gear if/when it breaks)
- Wide ratio rear cassette (optional - you could also get a dual 42/52 chainring for the front instead)
- Stronger chain (optional - as the motor puts increased strain on the chain. E.g. KMC X9e)
- Bike trailer (optional)
How can I calculate the optimum chainring ratio for my bike so that I can order this in advance?
Cheers
Edit: Thanks to the people below - I've added in their suggestions to the list
echew
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casainho said:
Cool thanks Casainho, have added that to the list.
What exactly are the brake sensors? My kit from recycles-ebike.com seems to come with some brake levers - is this what you mean?
See kit: http://recycles-ebike.com/tongsheng-tsdz2/95-tongsheng-motor-conversion-ebike-kittorque-sensor-48v-500w-42t-chainwheelwith-thumb-throttlecutoff-brake.html
Speady
10 W
Without knowing anything about your donor bike I recommend:echew said:
-a single right side Bafang crankarm to fix the huge offset
-a dedicated e-bike chain like KMC X9e or similar
-a wide ratio cassette as you will have just a single front chainwheel then
-lots of brake pads and bigger disks as you will ride longer, faster and more often, with a heavier bike
-shrink tube, plastic wrap and zip ties
-if you go for brake switches, get those 2-pin
-a main gear as it will fail sooner or later
Regarding the speed limit you can set MAGNETS 10 in the hidden menue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlMZTA36elQ
John and Cecil
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echew said:
I recently went from a 42t to a 34t chainring. I hated it... Not only was it worse for the chainline, but it made the gears too close together. The only bonus was it was better at climbing steep hills. I have since switched back to the stock 42t offset chainring and in the future I am going to order a wider ratio rear cassette to give some added hill climbing power.
This site is very helpful with calculating gearing:
http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed
Just plug in your tire size and width, chainring size, cassette smallest and largest cog, and cadence to calculate (90 would be top motor speed). I don't know how fast you ride but with Cecil on the back I can only get up to about 25mph even though I have another gear that will go 30mph. Going down hill and pedaling above the 90 cadence I can get that 30mph gear(@90) up to about 45mph. I kind of like the setup we have now (27.5 x 2.8 tires with 42t front and 11-34 rear) only I am going to swap out the rear for an 11-40 for a lower hill climbing gear. After I do 8th gear will be downhill only and 1st will be steep uphill only, and I will mostly use 2-6/7 for flat riding. Considering the power of the motor I find that I like my gears more spread out, and a standard rear cassette with a small chainring caused me to make too many shifts too quickly and I had to rip it off...
