Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Hey Kdog,

Yeah, doesn't look like your settings are off at all, but the hall angle at 300degrees could be a problem. Sounds like you may have sorted it now anyway.

I've found the best hall angle is either 60 or 180 degrees. You can adjust this by playing with the phase wire order and re-doing auto-detect.

Cheers
 
A guy in russia board even mentioned that a hall offset of 0° would works best.
This setting is determined in autodetect and depends on the phase and hall combo.
Normally one would imagine that it should not have any influence on the system, but it seems that it does.

I have a strange problem with "jerky power control" if the controller tries to maintain a set speed limit.
In detail:
A speed limit of 70kmh was set in normal or boost mode (while speed at full throttle would be 90kmh on the flat).
If i ride WOT, the controller will limit the speed to 70 kmh, but the power is alternating huge. If feels like the controller applies 0,5sec full throttle and 0,5sec no throttle, so the bike is always massive accelerating and deaccelerating.
The higher the load on the motor the better it gets. The worst it becomes when riding down a hill with very low load on the motor. than it alternates crazy!

If i do the speed limitation by myself with partial throttle by hand, there is no such jerky alternation. I am able to hold the speed smoothly.

What can be the problem?

A similar issue i noticed is the lower the battery voltage becomes, the harder it gets to maintain a given speed.
For instance at 25% soc i even cannot control the speed by hand anymore beaucause of massive power alternation / jerky throttle control. It doesn't matter if i manually would like to hold speed at 60, 50kmh or 40kmh. No chance to maintain a smooth speed.
There is no sag to low voltage or another problem with the battery. It maybe is close before "vsoftlimit" but nothing else.

Any ideas?
 
Maddin
Under traction settings there is a spd smooth setting. It changes how abruptly the controller responds to a set sp limit. Try lowering the value.
 
kdog said:
Maddin
Under traction settings there is a spd smooth setting. It changes how abruptly the controller responds to a set sp limit. Try lowering the value.

I have played with this setting felt a 100 times, from lowest to highest and almost everyting else between, but it doesn't solve the problem.
Yes, things change a little bit and around 20000 it seems to be best, but there is still a huge alternation in power and jerky throttle responds, especially at lower battery voltage.

I also played with "pwm rise lim" which i changed from 80 to 60 so far, but i could not notice a change (aside from a bit less aggressive acceleration).
 
madin88 said:
A guy in russia board even mentioned that a hall offset of 0° would works best.
This setting is determined in autodetect and depends on the phase and hall combo.
Normally one would imagine that it should not have any influence on the system, but it seems that it does.

I have a strange problem with "jerky power control" if the controller tries to maintain a set speed limit.
In detail:
A speed limit of 70kmh was set in normal or boost mode (while speed at full throttle would be 90kmh on the flat).
If i ride WOT, the controller will limit the speed to 70 kmh, but the power is alternating huge. If feels like the controller applies 0,5sec full throttle and 0,5sec no throttle, so the bike is always massive accelerating and deaccelerating.
The higher the load on the motor the better it gets. The worst it becomes when riding down a hill with very low load on the motor. than it alternates crazy!

If i do the speed limitation by myself with partial throttle by hand, there is no such jerky alternation. I am able to hold the speed smoothly.

What can be the problem?

A similar issue i noticed is the lower the battery voltage becomes, the harder it gets to maintain a given speed.
For instance at 25% soc i even cannot control the speed by hand anymore beaucause of massive power alternation / jerky throttle control. It doesn't matter if i manually would like to hold speed at 60, 50kmh or 40kmh. No chance to maintain a smooth speed.
There is no sag to low voltage or another problem with the battery. It maybe is close before "vsoftlimit" but nothing else.

Any ideas?

I had a similar problem when I had high PWR and OVS 5 at the same time. After I reduced PWR to +0.87 it is much more smoother when I reach my speed limit 75 km/h.
 
icherouveim said:
I had a similar problem when I had high PWR and OVS 5 at the same time. After I reduced PWR to +0.87 it is much more smoother when I reach my speed limit 75 km/h.
If i reduce PWR timing one step, the motor will overheat very quick under load.
At the moment i have set this to 0,88 and one step lower would be 0,71.
I will try it out and see what happens with the speed.

thanks!

bigbore said:
Madin88 did you check the throttle linear? Are you using a potentiometer or a hall throttle?

I have a 5k pot throttle together with a hall based e-brake.
What does throttle linear do?
In "throttle limit" screen the small bar on the bottom shows no signs of unwanted movement - at least if the bike stands still.

hmm, i think i will hook up a DMM to the throttle signal so that i can see if everything is OK with it if the issue crops up.
I read about the "resistor mod" when using pot throttles, but i never had a problem so far without it.
 
madin88 said:
I have a 5k pot throttle together with a hall based e-brake.
hi madin88. i'd like to know more about that system of yours... maybe not in this thread, as it would be out of the subject, but feel free to answer in any convenient way !! Thanks in advance
 
does anyone have any advice to help get the down button on the screen working again? moisture may have entered during a sponge bath!?!?

I have taken the screen apart but i cant actually get to the buttons contacts for a clean. Ive given the plastic ribbon thing a clean that looks like it comes from that area. but still the button has no effect.

cheers
 
Hello folks. Got problem with speed limitation. I have miniE and when accelerating it gives me 4kW in boost mode but as soon as I achieve 50km/h power drops to 2-2,5 kW :/ I have set my Skph value to 100km/h but still cannot go faster than 50km/h :( Any thoughts?
 
Montage.pl said:
Hello folks. Got problem with speed limitation. I have miniE and when accelerating it gives me 4kW in boost mode but as soon as I achieve 50km/h power drops to 2-2,5 kW :/ I have set my Skph value to 100km/h but still cannot go faster than 50km/h :( Any thoughts?

go into TRACTION CONTROL and set the value for SMOOTH - as high as you can.... acceleration will improve and so will top speed. Also set the OVS timing to at least 3 or 4.
 
Lash said:
does anyone have any advice to help get the down button on the screen working again? moisture may have entered during a sponge bath!?!?

I have taken the screen apart but i cant actually get to the buttons contacts for a clean. Ive given the plastic ribbon thing a clean that looks like it comes from that area. but still the button has no effect.

cheers

The screen with buttons are actually just a plastic self adhesive screen that's glued to the rest of the screen housing.
I have fixed a screen with the same symptoms as you experience once by replacing the plastic screen that has the buttons integrated in it.
Contact adaptto on shop@adaptto.ru and they will (hopefully) be able so send you a replacement for around 20€ pluss shipping.
Took a few weeks to get it + slow answers from Adaptto...

I thought I had a picture of the inside of the damaged screen but I can't find it at the moment. PM me if you really need it and I'll see if I can't produce another pic.

Good luck :D
 
Hey guys

any one can help me with that please

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=58190&p=1392088#p1392088

Thanks So Much !

Luc
 
Hey guys

patient Adaptto E max
Charge settings
max current power suplly 30 A
charge current 5 A

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HCPh1w8urw[/youtube]

screen shows power suplly current 1, 2 or 0.8 A at the same time meter on power suplly shows 20 a at 54 V --- thats 1000 W

also in the screen I can see charge battery current more then in the settings

there is no way I can set up this look like this thing is charging it own way

controller is warm and give me also strange buzzing voice and is turing on and off every 10 sec while charge




check video please

Thanks for the help !

Luc
 
lukas999 said:
Hey guys

patient Adaptto E max
Charge settings
max current power suplly 30 A
charge current 5 A

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HCPh1w8urw[/youtube]

screen shows power suplly current 1, 2 or 0.8 A at the same time meter on power suplly shows 20 a at 54 V --- thats 1000 W

also in the screen I can see charge battery current more then in the settings

there is no way I can set up this look like this thing is charging it own way

controller is warm and give me also strange buzzing voice and is turing on and off every 10 sec while charge




check video please

Thanks for the help !

Luc


now showing me power suplly current 866 amps!
the same buzzing voice and turing on and off

holy crap guys
that thing just came back from the repair yesterday
 
lukas999 said:
check video please

Thanks for the help !

Luc

did you notice the temperature bar on the right side on the screen? If the wrong internal thermistor is set (KTY83 or KTY84 in calibration menu) it looks like this, but i don't know if this would solve your problem or not.
 
madin88 said:
lukas999 said:
check video please

Thanks for the help !

Luc

did you notice the temperature bar on the right side on the screen? If the wrong internal thermistor is set (KTY83 or KTY84 in calibration menu) it looks like this, but i don't know if this would solve your problem or not.

That is the issue I've faced it too. Change the thermistor setting and it should work normally
 
Willow said:
madin88 said:
lukas999 said:
check video please

Thanks for the help !

Luc

did you notice the temperature bar on the right side on the screen? If the wrong internal thermistor is set (KTY83 or KTY84 in calibration menu) it looks like this, but i don't know if this would solve your problem or not.

That is the issue I've faced it too. Change the thermistor setting and it should work normally

guys I have this set up at kty 84 like before

there is no problem with temperature but with other things

I had this controller working for 25 days on kty 84 setting and all was good!
after that protection mode kicked in and I sent to adaptto for repair
after few weeks they send me back and tell me that they replace mosfet and replace firmware
I recieved controller yesterday and connected today

( I can see rear wheel was spinning a bit when I turn off ignition key after connecting everything today)

but that dosent matter

e max is down again!

no live on the screen at all
 
zlagger said:

Anyone know the name or where to buy this throttle connector that comes with the Adappto controllers? I had it saved but somehow lost it!

Mini xrd or something like that? I’ve searched on google for everything I could think of and came up empty handed.

Thanks,

Tom
 
litespeed said:
zlagger said:

Anyone know the name or where to buy this throttle connector that comes with the Adappto controllers? I had it saved but somehow lost it!

Mini xrd or something like that? I’ve searched on google for everything I could think of and came up empty handed.

Thanks,

Tom

Allex should be able to tell you if cannot find it in this 200 page thread.
 
madin88 said:
icherouveim said:
I had a similar problem when I had high PWR and OVS 5 at the same time. After I reduced PWR to +0.87 it is much more smoother when I reach my speed limit 75 km/h.
If i reduce PWR timing one step, the motor will overheat very quick under load.
At the moment i have set this to 0,88 and one step lower would be 0,71.
I will try it out and see what happens with the speed.

thanks!

bigbore said:
Madin88 did you check the throttle linear? Are you using a potentiometer or a hall throttle?

I have a 5k pot throttle together with a hall based e-brake.
What does throttle linear do?
In "throttle limit" screen the small bar on the bottom shows no signs of unwanted movement - at least if the bike stands still.

hmm, i think i will hook up a DMM to the throttle signal so that i can see if everything is OK with it if the issue crops up.
I read about the "resistor mod" when using pot throttles, but i never had a problem so far without it.

My last Domino throttle started to behave like the first one that gone bad last year, last Friday while riding I noticed some speed oscillation while cruising around 45Km/h and looking at the throttle limits screen I had the same flickering as I had in this video:
[youtube]qC8rmcrvoLw[/youtube]

A little CRC 5-56 solved the problem so far bat I guess I will start looking for a DIY 5K pot mod for these throttles. :evil:
 
Please keep us informed of your investigation.
I was about to order one of these Domino throttles, but if they don't last, there is no point.
I'm curious to see what kind of pot they use, I hope it's not a trim pot!
 
bigbore said:
My last Domino throttle started to behave like the first one that gone bad last year, last Friday while riding I noticed some speed oscillation while cruising around 45Km/h and looking at the throttle limits screen I had the same flickering as I had in this video:

A little CRC 5-56 solved the problem so far bat I guess I will start looking for a DIY 5K pot mod for these throttles. :evil:

I had a similar problem, but with another 5k thumb throttle. The pot from this throttle died two times within a few month.
But at this thime i have not hooked up a variable (hall based) e-brake. I was using a push button as brake switch.

So i wonder, do you use an e-brake?
-> resistor mod and the necessary minimum current draw on the +5V supply to make it work properly.

I never had problems with the Domino. The pot is quite large and it should be top notch quality (it is also specified to be waterproof).

The problems i have is "PWR_timing" which either makes the motor to run cool and efficient under load (higher timing), but then there will occur problmes with the throttle power pumping (like 0,5sec full power and 0,5sec no power) as described before. I guess this is the so called "run away situation" which should be avoided.

OR

if i set lower PWR_timing the alternation in power is gone (at least 9 times out of 10), but the motor than verheats very quick under load.

I have not hooked up a DMM yet to the throttle signal, but i am quite sure that it works well and the problem lies in the controller brain.
 
madin88 said:
I had a similar problem, but with another 5k thumb throttle. The pot from this throttle died two times within a few month.
But at this thime i have not hooked up a variable (hall based) e-brake. I was using a push button as brake switch.

So i wonder, do you use an e-brake?
-> resistor mod and the necessary minimum current draw on the +5V supply to make it work properly.

I never had problems with the Domino. The pot is quite large and it should be top notch quality (it is also specified to be waterproof).

I have been using a push button as brake switch only without any resistance mod.
It seems to me a kind of mechanical issue, but you could be right. Anyway I have ordered this CTS pot which is the most similar to the original pot I can buy. It needs some mods to fit inside the throttle.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=284TBCF502A26A1
 
bigbore said:
I have been using a push button as brake switch only without any resistance mod.
It seems to me a kind of mechanical issue, but you could be right. Anyway I have ordered this CTS pot which is the most similar to the original pot I can buy. It needs some mods to fit inside the throttle.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=284TBCF502A26A1

Ha!, so it's probably the case that Adaptto destroys 5k pot throttles if they are used without the resistor mod.

It would make sense as the 5k thumb thr i was using was advertised as high quality product (it cost about 45USD), but each of the two died within just a few hours of usage. In thr_calibration screen it was exactly the same issue as in your vid (the bar on the bottom did move back and forth and not smooth anymore).
 
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