24F Silent Controller 20kw 100-150v iOS/Android- $299>

Am I right to understand that this 24f controller can handle up to 150v before burning up? What is the largest battery someone has run on one of these to date? I’m trying to build two touring tadpole trikes. Looking at qs205 motors, these controllers, and want to research battery options a little better before pulling the trigger.
 
I have a new stock of 24Fs customized to handle up to 150v. What this means it that the power stage of the controllers is upgraded with 150v rated mosfets and capacitors. There are also adjustments in the control circuits to allow this voltage to run.

I have a few customers that ran up to 147v on these (35s packs fully charged).

I have personally run QS205 and 273 motors + 24Fs combos successfully for thousands of miles.

Ebuilt said:
Am I right to understand that this 24f controller can handle up to 150v before burning up? What is the largest battery someone has run on one of these to date? I’m trying to build two touring tadpole trikes. Looking at qs205 motors, these controllers, and want to research battery options a little better before pulling the trigger.
 
Do you have an open source info of how to wire in Domino throttles to your controllers? My half twist throttle works just fine with your controller, but the Domino has two extra wires than what comes out of the controller. Also, whats this about wiring resistors or pots into the throttle? If you can post a picture here for me and anyone else who might have this question, would be great!
 
There is no secret about it. Two green wires are for built-in micro switch that Domino has. That's where that click comes from when you fully release the throttle. In most cases, you just don't connect them to anything although I've seen people wiring them to ebrake. So, fully releasing the throttle cuts the power for sure or regen kicks in if enabled.

In regards to the voltage mapping, the basic idea is to shift the output voltage on a resistive throttle like Domino or Magura from 0-5v to something like 1-3.6v as this is what the controller expects. This eliminates the dead band at the low and high ends of the throttle.

The starting threshold on the controller is actually 1.3v, so the throttle resting voltage of 1-1.2v would be ideal. You can achieve this with a voltage divider. Then you need to drop, the top voltage from 4.7v from the controller output to something like to 3.6-4v. You can do that by adding a diode or a resistor in line with the red/power wire.

The new BT modules, however, do voltage mapping automatically.


Ebuilt said:
Do you have an open source info of how to wire in Domino throttles to your controllers? My half twist throttle works just fine with your controller, but the Domino has two extra wires than what comes out of the controller. Also, whats this about wiring resistors or pots into the throttle? If you can post a picture here for me and anyone else who might have this question, would be great!
 
Q: Will your controllers (with the $20 option of the JST 6pin CA cable) support the Grin Cycle Analyst 3.1p15 feature of proportional regen by ebrake + throttle as you depress the throttle the brake out voltage will decrease down to 0.0V to give maximum regen?
 
Using the same action on the throttle for acceleration and braking is unsafe, so there is no plan to support that.
A separate brake throttle or a hall effect sensor on brake levers are a possibility.

bobmutch said:
Q: Will your controllers (with the $20 option of the JST 6pin CA cable) support the Grin Cycle Analyst 3.1p15 feature of proportional regen by ebrake + throttle as you depress the throttle the brake out voltage will decrease down to 0.0V to give maximum regen?
 
Powervelocity.com said:
Using the same action on the throttle for acceleration and braking is unsafe, so there is no plan to support that.
What is your reasoning behind this statement? Grin seems to have successfully implemented this very feature and I haven't heard of any safety concerns either in theory or practice.
 
Because of increased probability of brake misapplication and unintended acceleration.
People hit accelerator instead of brakes every day even when those are separate pedals. Check this out:
https://business.gasbuddy.com/nhtsa-16000-crashes-annually-are-caused-by-pedal-error/

So imagine what happens if you get rid of the brake pedal and use accelerator for braking but will have to press and hold a button each time when you want to brake.

Brakes are the most important safety feature of a vehicle.
It must be intuitive and easy to engage to be effective, especially, in emergency situations. You have no luxury of thinking twice how to slam on the brakes it should not be a two step process and can't use the same action registered in your muscle memory.

danielrlee said:
Powervelocity.com said:
Using the same action on the throttle for acceleration and braking is unsafe, so there is no plan to support that.
What is your reasoning behind this statement? Grin seems to have successfully implemented this very feature and I haven't heard of any safety concerns either in theory or practice.
 
hi

how do I buy a 20kw controller with shipping to the uk?

thanks
Alan


(p.s. the contact from on your website throws up an error, so does the pay with paypal button)
 
>>>So imagine what happens if you get rid of the brake pedal and use accelerator for braking but will have to press and hold a button each time when you want to brake.
Brakes are the most important safety feature of a vehicle.
It must be intuitive and easy to engage to be effective, especially, in emergency situations. You have no luxury of thinking twice how to slam on the brakes it should not be a two step process and can't use the same action registered in your muscle memory.

I agree 100% sounds right. I had my bike jump out of my hands and launch forward full speed because I stopped to put my chain on and the peddle assist sensor must have got spun. Jumped right out of my hands. Then the controller is in the down tube at the bottom righty the crank unsecured and the battery-in-a-tube is fitted into the down tube but the battery slides out of the tube and down the bike down tube and weights on top of controller.

I was gliding in to my house hit the curb hard, I like to come in fast lol, onto my drive and the bike bolted.

So ya that makes sense about the braking, just something togo wrong and bolt on your, perhaps into traffic lol.

Ok next Q

So what about a bi directional throttle, one way for speed, the other way for brake? or do you think it is better to have a separate throttle on the left handle bar. And I want to set this all up with the CA3 and a PV controller.
 
Bi-directional throttle is different because twist directions for acceleration and braking are different. So, it intuitive.
You still want to have regular brakes for emergency braking, or, even better, tune 95-100% of the braking band to engage hydraulic/mechanical brakes for complete stop.

bobmutch said:
Ok next Q

So what about a bi directional throttle, one way for speed, the other way for brake? or do you think it is better to have a separate throttle on the left handle bar. And I want to set this all up with the CA3 and a PV controller.
 
Q1: bi directional throttle... or do you think it is better to have a separate throttle on the left handle bar?

Q2 And the bi directional throttle will work with AC3 and a PV controller?
 
A bi-directional throttle takes less space and allows you to operate throttle and brakes with a single hand. It's intuitive and mutually exclusive. You can't have both actions (throttle and acceleration engaged at the same time). I have not personally run such throttle, but, theoretically speaking, I think it provides the best experience.

I do have first-hand experience running the secondary throttle for regen. It works pretty well. What is better, I think would be a matter of a taste here.

i haven't seen a lot of bidirectional throttles yet, but all a throttle does is provides some voltage output. The easiest to make it work with most controllers is to have two separate outputs on such throttle. So that it will output near 0V on both outputs, and will change one or the other output voltage, depending which direction you twist it. That will require minimum adjustment to the existing controller logic (or CA for that matter).

bobmutch said:
Q1: bi directional throttle... or do you think it is better to have a separate throttle on the left handle bar?

Q2 And the bi directional throttle will work with AC3 and a PV controller?
 
Hi

is fully variable regen or 2 step switch regen now on stock?

-still waiting for more then xx weeks!

Thanks
 
Does the 24FET have a Voltage Regulator for 12v?

Cheers
 
So I just received my black-anodized 20kW PowerVelocity controller from Vadym. This thing is heavy compared to the cheap Chinese controller that came with my 2000W eScooter/eMoped! One thing that I was not expecting was any ambiguity as to how to wire up the eBrakes to this -- after all, most other controllers are very simple when it comes to the brakes. Not so the PV controller -- there are a total of 7 possible wires that need to be considered (five of them are labeled "EBS", which of course is not documented). I include here a diagram of what I "think" it should be. But then again, who am I to understand the workings of an engineer's mind? :p

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

M

P.S. the blue thing is the Bluetooth adapter.
 
Yes, there is always more than one way to skin a cat depending and what you want to accomplish.

2x EBS- are simply duplicate connections (one for each brake levers). White/Blue is brake signal and black is ground. The brake signal is communicated by asserting the brake signal LOW (shorting the signal to ground).

When you use the controller with the BT module, you want to connect one EBS- to the module and the other to both brake levers (in parallel). What this will do is by engaging the brake levers, the brake event will be communicated to the BT module and, vise versa, the BT can engage brakes when needed.

EBS+ is similar to EBS- in function which means it also communicates brake signal. The difference is that it expects positive input (instead of ground like with EBS-). The positive input makes sense when you want the stop signal to light up when you press the brakes. So, you would parallel the EBS+ with the stop signal light wire and feed 12v to the brake lever switch input, so that when you engage the brakes, both EBS+ and your stop signal light get 12v. That would communicate the brake event to the controller and light up the brake light at the same time.

However, you don't want to feed 12v to the BT module as the input is 5v max allowed. Additional inverting circuit will need to be developed to use EBS+ with the BT and there is no benefit to do it right now. So, I would just recommend you use EBS- together with the BT module as described above or use EBS+ if you needs stop lights, but do not connect it to the module. Those are two options at the moment.



MJSfoto1956 said:
So I just received my black-anodized 20kW PowerVelocity controller from Vadym. This thing is heavy compared to the cheap Chinese controller that came with my 2000W eScooter/eMoped! One thing that I was not expecting was any ambiguity as to how to wire up the eBrakes to this -- after all, most other controllers are very simple when it comes to the brakes. Not so the PV controller -- there are a total of 7 possible wires that need to be considered (five of them are labeled "EBS", which of course is not documented). I include here a diagram of what I "think" it should be. But then again, who am I to understand the workings of an engineer's mind? :p

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

M

P.S. the blue thing is the Bluetooth adapter.
 
Powervelocity.com said:
When you use the controller with the BT module, you want to connect one EBS- to the module and the other to both brake levers (in parallel). What this will do is by engaging the brake levers, the brake event will be communicated to the BT module and, vise versa, the BT can engage brakes when needed.

So if I understand the instructions above correctly, then would you say the following diagram is correct for the EBS- use case?
 

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Actually, please connect only the signal wire to the module as the common ground is already there on the module. That pin is also reserved for something else in the future.

In regard to diodes and connecting to this way to the brake lights, it will not work that way. The brake signal is for signaling only. It's 5v max and very low amps. Lights normally require 12v and at least 1A of current (depending on type of bulbs is used - LED, incandescent. etc)





MJSfoto1956 said:
Powervelocity.com said:
When you use the controller with the BT module, you want to connect one EBS- to the module and the other to both brake levers (in parallel). What this will do is by engaging the brake levers, the brake event will be communicated to the BT module and, vise versa, the BT can engage brakes when needed.

So if I understand the instructions above correctly, then would you say the following diagram is correct for the EBS- use case?
 
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