Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Just a tip when gluing your battery together, you want to leave the hot glue out of one of the holes at the center of the pack to place in a temperature probe at the very center of the pack. It was ridiculous that Max-E didn't include a battery temperature probe into their controller, especially for added safety while charging. You will probably want to do this to know what your battery temps are as my pack gets really hot during my long rides.

When speaking about controller wattage, the one thing I didn't like when going to the Max-E is that they limit the phase amps. Even if I turn up the amps / wattage on my controller, it will still have limited phase amps and lack the low speed power. I always wanted to upgrade my controller to the unlocked firmware but I wasn't sure if they updated this firmware and how it would work. My old Lyen 18fet controller had what seemed like unlimited phase amps and the acceleration from stop was more powerful and the bike was more like a dirt bike.

The reason I limited my controller wattage to 8KW, was mostly that I know myself and I know that with more power I was more likely to get hurt because I'm always pushing my bike to the limits. SO I decided that it was my best interest to just limit the power at 8KW as this is still a lot of power.

I really ride my bike aggressively and use it like a dirt bike, I know that more power may just allow me to take a fall at a higher speed than I would have if I kept my wattage lower. Getting injured is really a bad thing, especially if you damage soft tissues like ligaments and tendons, could be an injury that can last a lifetime. I always increased the power of my e-bikes slowly up from my first 1500 watts to now 8KW.

If you guys rode with me and saw how fast I ride both on the street and off-road, you would realize that it is a smart thing for me to limit my power. I like the feeling of speed so I'm always at full throttle. This is why I limit myself to 8KW, as I don't want to get injured.

Basically I can't trust myself with higher power like 12KW, so I put limits on myself.

For battery health the best thing I found is making sure the pack is secure in the bike. This is why the Q76R is such a great frame because the frame is so tiny and the side covers help squeeze the pack securely inside the frame.

Using proper closed cell foam, and squeezing the pack with the side covers, will stop any movement of the pack inside the frame. This should eliminate most battery issues you will have.

The last time I removed my pack, it will still held in securely by the closed cell foam with the side covers off to where I had to push hard to push the pack out of the frame. The foam hasn't shrunk down yet and caused the pack to become loose inside the frame.

It's a good idea install a probe in the center of the battery. I will do it.
Coincidentally I have a voltmeter that have a probe that measures up to 250C ° (the voltmeter has a range of -40C to 1000C °).
The wire measures one meter, I'll put it in the center of my lipo to see what temperature can to reach.
I will pull the probe cable through the hole that has the Q76r just below the steering tube.
For see values, I just have to stop me, to connect the wires to voltmeter and look the temperature. Also,, I could temporarily set the voltmeter below the ignition key, so you could see the temperature at accurate instant.


I respect your way of thinking, I would have to lower the power of the Boost mode and be more responsible.
8Kw is a good point.
Likewise, each one will experiment with different Kw to limit the ebike to their liking.
The most important thing is to go safe, although sometimes it is quite enjoyable doing a little crazy.

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT:
You also have to be extremely careful with the issue of the pulls on the throttle cable, as this can mean that any cable of the 3 (positive, negative and signal) that goes to the hall sensor is cut.
It has already happened to me 2 times and not long ago, the first time in the Qulbix, and the second time in a folding Bfold3 (Bafang of 48v500w + ku123 that electrified almost 4 years ago).
In the best case, (if only the positive cable is disconnected) the accelerator stops working. This happened to me with the bfold3.
And in the worst case (if only the negative is disconnected) the ebike It does not stop accelerating to the maximum and the only thing you think of the scare is to turn off the key (bad, better press the regenerative brake, or have brakes with signal cut) and in doing so you have to let go of a hand, you can imagine.
All this in Normal mode after doing a skid at the end of a descent.
I do not want to imagine if this happens in Boost mode, suddenly activating 13Kw of power in full skid and you stay with WTF face in an instant before the accident.

Check and secure your throttle cable! , glued the part of wire inside del accelerator to plastic if necessary, the hall sensors are very small, and their eyelashes are broken by looking at them.
THIS THEME IS VERY IMPORTANT AND DANGEROUS, and sorry for screaming, but it is for you to see it more.

Maderensto, I did have a couple of throttles break on me and stop working, but I never knew they could break and go full throttle. Would be interesting because I do not have an on/off switch and I can't even unplug my battery easily. Actually, maybe I did have a throttle go full acceleration on me when the throttle connector adaptto used broke and caused me to do a wheelie at low speeds but it only did it for a second.

I do have regen and I guess I could always hit that. What I would then do is try and put my controller in ECO mode which I usually do when I stop my bike for a long time as I have that set to almost zero amps.

I think if you have a throttle that breaks while you are far away from home there is a way you could setup your controller to accelerate. If you go into adaptto throttle calibration and raise or lower the bar graph, you can actually set it so that you get a little bit of acceleration to help you ride back home. If your motor hall sensors break you can set your controller to either sensorless or sqwave, forgot which one and actually ride back home with broken halls.

Madernesto, I guess you have no choice but to use that volt meter to read the temperature. I used something similar also when I first built my pack, I didn't ride with it on I just hooked it up to my wire at different times during my ride. The temperature rises slowly so you don't need to leave the volt meter on your bike, you can just keep it in your pocket or backpack and check the temps every 20 minutes.

Now I used one of these as I have 12 volts DC/DC converter on my bike to power my fan and lights and my temp gauge is always on and mounted on my handlebar. Adaptto really should have put in a temp gauge sensor for the battery, not sure why they didn't. This would allow better safety during charging to shut pack off if you over charge and also to shut the bike down if your battery temps are too high. It could also allow us to read the battery temps from the display.

I get my battery temps as high as 50C sometimes on really hot days.Takes forever to cool down as the battery is mostly encased in foam, no thermal transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3A2SS0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just some pics of my bike. I must say that I can't remember the last time I had to service anything on my bike. I believe I drove the whole riding season last year and so far this year without needing to repair a single thing on my bike. In the past on my raptor 165 build I was repairing stuff at least every week it seemed.

My goal in building the Q76R was making it completely maintenance free so that basically I don't have to constantly be repairing things on it. I think I met that goal, and this is with constant 2 hour rides where I do a lot of off-roading and jumps. My high speed fan cooled motor also is holding up without any issues, even with all the electronics required to run it and running it for sometimes 2 hours at a time at very high RPM, I'm basically feeding it 12 volts and 6 amps.

The only thing I do with my bike is I usually quickly check some bolts before any long rides, usually the swingarm bolts and the axle nuts as they do loosen. Since I use nord-lock washers on them they very rarely loosen but since I'm off-roading and riding over fallen trees and making hard hits it is possible for these to loosen up and they need to be checked. Ever few rides I also check my fork bolts and side cover bolts. Most bicycle manufactures recommend checking all the bolts before each ride.

I've got rid of the pedals and this was really the best thing since going with a motorcycle seat. Footpegs are by far superior to pedals from everything like handling the bike, having much greater ground clearance, and also with taking stress off your knees. You can really land high jumps and its not painful with footpegs. Also from doing constant sitting and standing on the bike this would aggrivate my right knee with pedals, this doesn't aggrivate my right knee anymore with the footpegs. While I don't have issues with my knees in general, I always had what seemed to be a weaker right knee since I was a child and the pedals definitely aggravated it.

I also run an SJ4000 cam as a dash cam on the rear of my bike. When I turn on my DC/DC converter it starts up and records. I still plan on adding an action dash cam to the front of my bike as I have the 12 volts wires there to power it. This way I'll have front and rear recording during my whole rides. This is very important to have this as its cheap insurance if you get hurt. Since all it takes to turn it and and record is a push of a button as it records over itself when the memory card is full, it really makes sense just to have cameras on your bike.

Another great thing on my bike is I"m running Duro Razorback 26x3.00 on the front. They are such fat tires and very robust, almost the perfect ebike tire by far and I've done a lot of research into bicycle tires. These have the harder tread compound. These things are simply awesome tires as I've put thousands of miles on them and they don't wear out. I do a lot of street riding and they hold up extremely well, the knobs on them wear very slowly on the concrete.

Its too bad these tires are hard to find and I believe they don't make them anymore. They also offer a softer compound razorback so you would need to avoid those. The softer compound is called Recoil 47a soft compound, it will say this on the sidewall, and I own one of these tires and it is a much softer tire, almost feels a bit like a folding tire its so soft. While I didn't ride it I would have to assume that it will wear much quicker than the normal razorback compound which is very stiff. If you can't find the normal compound then you may still want to give the 47a a try to see how long they last.

I found a seller with these a while back and bought out his complete stock of them, so I'm sitting on like 10 of these tires.

I love your qulbix, it looks beautiful with the bike seat and footrests, apart from that, also the all components that you have used fit very well.
I also like those tires, much more than mine.
Save by choosing the one I'm carrying now (€ 40 cost me new)

I also looked a minimum maintenance ( Cheap bikes usually end up breaking with moderately powerful electric kits. Although if you find your faults and you solving them, in the end they do not have to have much maintenance either), and more or less I got it, I should solve a problem with the chain I have, caused by not putting a tensioner, and not put a lever to change gears, just put the rear derailleur, a shimano claris cheap).
Single speed, that's what I had to have put, it would have given me fewer problems.

Today I went out with the bike (113km) and I ran out of battery 7 km from my destination. When doing the maintenance of my lipos, I made a short unintentionally, in a cell when I was loading the individual cells (individuals cells and separate batteries). For that reason when all the cells arrive at 3.75v, the one that suffered the short begins to fall suddenly until it is at the minimum that the Bms put on it. But still it still works in conditions.




I am very married, tomorrow I will answer you as it is due, apart, I have several questions that I have to ask you as well.

What about the ignition key? Honestly is something that should you install, you will would like to have a key on / off by hand. Although perhaps, your adapto max-e did not bring the ignition cables, because you acquired it much earlier than me, when they still did not come as standard.
There is also a thread in the forum that explains how to install it, soldering the cables inside the controller yourself.

I do not think you can change the power mode by pressing the regenerative at the same time. At accelerate an not be changed (even if the Cruise mode is disabled, I do not think you can, you should check it anyway).

One day changing the values of the limits of the accelerator, I already realized that by raising the minimum voltage value, the wheel begins to move. Of course, it would not have occurred to me to use it at that moment.
I usually go prepared in my outings with basic tools. What I did when I broke the acerador with the Q76r was to cut the cable of the accelerator and the cable of the regenerative brake, leaving about 10cm of cable. In short, change one accelerator for the other.
A cutter or small scissors plus insulating tape It will help you out of trouble.
What you also said about the hall sensors, I did not know. If I ever have a problem with them, I will remember your advice.

I'll use the voltmeter's to test the battery that I have now. For the new battery I will buy a new probe, and I will buy the led display that you have shown me, which is small and cheap, I like it.

What about the DC / DC converter? I've been looking at it for some time, but because of my doubts, do not buy any.
How many output amps do you think I should have? I think at least 12A but this data will have to do with the power that lights and devices that connect to the converter need. I've been seeing some models in Mouser, but I have that doubt (I have also seen a cheap Universal Converter on AliExpress for € 10 with shipping.It supplies 12v to 10A although they recommend not to use more than 6A.
Its measurements are 90x50x35mm, and I think it's a good size. Tell me what you think).

I've seen that you has put it under the motorcycle seat, with the new battery I would have a problem, I would have to choose the smallest, and that means less output amps.

For the lights, and cameras, is another DC / DC converter needed from 12v to 1S(3.7v nominal) and 2S-(7.4v nominal)?
Or is it easier to use 12v lights directly?
La roulette that you carry under the camera, it will not be a converter ro reduce voltage less than 12v,
right?

As you say, you have to check all the screws before going out, especially those of the swingarm.
I lost a bolt of the side covers, now I tighten those bolts to the limit and they never get loose. On one side of the frame I can not remove the cap, since the heads of the bolts are too tight, I will need a dremmel to make a groove to fit a screwdriver and loosen them.
I will try to replace them with Allen 4mm, instead of the 3mm that come standard.

Your Battery have a really high resistance. What cells are you using?
And your PWR Timinigs around 2 is also really high. what Motor are you using? (windings, not brand)

Well I think the winding that comes standard (24x5T), the one that Qulbix sold 2 and a half years ago when I did the pre-order.

The PWR timing I always had it at +0.16. (Adaptto in its manual recommends having this value low for fast motors).
A month ago I tested different configurations, and having the PWR timing high, makes my accelerator has an almost uncontrollable acceleration. I'm not sure going this way and I know, but I like the strength it has now.

My batteries are the multistar of hobiking (2 years of use, with little care, many loads fast, many balances unnecessary, a short in a cell.They do not have many cycles, but time and misuse make invoice.

I thought that a resistance of 70 ohm was more or less well, similarly that data is clearer when given a more aggressive use, and not the one I gave on Saturday, which was in eco mode (if it reaches 5kw was because I put the Boost mode for a moment and gave a little accelerated nothing more).
I usually have from 80 ohm to 90ohm.
I also admit that I have a lot of cable that I could reduce considerably.
It will stay like this, until I change it.
And I have also noticed that the package itself is more swollen than when I mount it, since it is difficult for me to tighten the side bolts, I am looking forward to removing these lipos. One day I will go out burning.

I have my PWR set in the 2.29 with my MXUS Turbo. The acceleration is really powerful at these higher numbers.

Maderensto, why is difficult to tighten the side bolts?

Because my lipo battery pack is a little bloated and instead of occupying 76mm it occupies at least 80mm.
Also I used too much plastic film and electrical tape.
The only good thing is that it does not move.
View attachment 4


I hope you will answer the questions of my previous messages if it is not too much to ask.
When you have time, of course.
So much uncertainty leaves me restless.

The battery I had for the flashlight is broken it , I can not get the battery to charge. It has had to break the charging circuit, since the charger, and also the LEDs, working perfect. So I'm looking forward to your advice on the DC DC Converter.
For repair this battery, iwill have to buy a Pcb 2S plate, 2A I think, I doubt it's 5A.

View attachment 1


Thank you very much.

Bloated lipos? Me I would park that pack for good to prevent fire.

They're just a little swollen, nothing more.
Until I change the battery, I do not think I have fire problems, I doubt it.
I have them quite controlled, that gives me confidence.

Maderensto said:

The battery I had for the flashlight is broken it , I can not get the battery to charge. It has had to break the charging circuit, since the charger, and also the LEDs, working perfect. So I'm looking forward to your advice on the DC DC Converter.
For repair this battery, iwill have to buy a Pcb 2S plate, 2A I think, I doubt it's 5A.

Click to expand...

That could be more than 2 amps, probably not but possibly when using lights on high. Those things are cheap so just order a few of them and try them out.

OK, I will. I will buy 2A, 5A, and 8A, just in case.
Being the cells of about 3200mah 2p, and lasting the battery, at maximum power of light 2 hours and half approximately .
I think 5A would be enough.

Offroader, the DC / DC converter from 72v to 12v that you have, how many amps does it supply?
Then you use another DC / DC converter from 12v to 9v-5v connecting the converter from 72v to 12v, so that this voltage to the lights and sports camera?

Actually I got rid of the 2nd DC/DC converter from 12 to 8 volts. I now run my cooling fan at 12 volts and my LED lights at 12 volts. I did this when I upgraded my 12 volt cooling fan to a 40mm EDF.

Most bike lights will run at 12 volts, even though they are rated at 2s lipo they have dc/dc converters in them that can usually handle the 12 volts.

You really should run your lights from your main battery pack, it is way annoying to have to charge them every ride. You can always get higher quality DC/DC converters and even ones that will do 72 volts to 8 volts.


My DC/DC 72 to 12 converter is really good for a china made one, I run that at 7-8 amps continuous many times. It does get hot so it needs to be outside of the bike, I keep mine under my motorcycle seat. My converter also draws very little parasitic load when not being used, but you should wire in a switch to turn it on and off. You really need two switches, one for a pre-load wired with a resistor because it will spark when you turn it on.

Maderensto said:

Well I think the winding that comes standard (24x5T), the one that Qulbix sold 2 and a half years ago when I did the pre-order.

The PWR timing I always had it at +0.16. (Adaptto in its manual recommends having this value low for fast motors).
A month ago I tested different configurations, and having the PWR timing high, makes my accelerator has an almost uncontrollable acceleration. I'm not sure going this way and I know, but I like the strength it has now.

My batteries are the multistar of hobiking (2 years of use, with little care, many loads fast, many balances unnecessary, a short in a cell.They do not have many cycles, but time and misuse make invoice.

I thought that a resistance of 70 ohm was more or less well, similarly that data is clearer when given a more aggressive use, and not the one I gave on Saturday, which was in eco mode (if it reaches 5kw was because I put the Boost mode for a moment and gave a little accelerated nothing more).
I usually have from 80 ohm to 90ohm.
I also admit that I have a lot of cable that I could reduce considerably.
It will stay like this, until I change it.
And I have also noticed that the package itself is more swollen than when I mount it, since it is difficult for me to tighten the side bolts, I am looking forward to removing these lipos. One day I will go out burning.

Click to expand...

interessting with your and offroaders PWM timing. if i go to 1,5 my motor heats up easy to 150°c in a few hundred meters on a full throttle run.(30x4 Winding)
beside that i dont have more midrange power. so i stay on lazy 0.8 all time.
the biggest "oumph" effect comes with the switch from 20 to 22s....dead stop races arent that good, but in the middle up to 80mph....thats a nice hell ride
even on 50kph, just open throttle and wheelie all day long. if you want you could start a wheelie at 70kph.(no joke will make videos )

the high resistance of your battery or wiring harness will decrease also your battery life and max power
...but when they are 2 years old i would not care that much.
a bit bloated packs arent a problem if your using a bms. i have a bunch of those fat sausages outside laying around since 1,5 years. left them fully charged and the sun burns down every day on it. maybe i have to measure voltage these days

i think you could easy add 2kw of max power with a stronger battery (no matter of lipo or 18650)
MY Voltage drop is only about 5-6v on a fresh charge and wot.

.8 PWM is real low. My bike felt so weak with those low values. I will have to set my PWM lower and see exactly where I get more power with my higher PWM.

I wouldn't be surprised if a higher PWM overheats the hub motor, higher OVS overheats my motor real quickly and with all the extra acceleration a higher PWM gives I could imagine it must cause a lot of heat.

But I have a very effective hub motor cooling solution and this really works to keep my motor cool so I just turn the PWM up without issue.

This makes me wonder that even though I'm only pushing 8KW, I think my bike has so much power. I wonder if a higher PWM gives me much more acceleration than someone running like 14KW of power but with a lower PWM. I'll have to learn what PWM is and if its causing the motor to heat up excessively, wouldn't this mean that more power is going to the motor?

This could be the reason for the discrepancy in how powerful the bike feels when people are using different max KW.

Macribs what controller are you running?

I have slightly fried sabvaton, 2 chiang something and lyen. Those chaing are crap.
Sabvaton was ok but I fried fets and I haven't yet mustard the braveness to try to fix it, even I have seen details report here how to solder and unsolder fets. Lyen is aggressive and violent I like that. The one controller I was eyeballing went OEM all the sudden at left a vacuum, the mobipus. Hoping we will see mobipus returning.

Offroader, thanks for the explanation. Forgive my lack of knowledge, but I still have a doubt.
To the DC DC converter I have to connect 2 switches (of what type?) One to the positive and one to the negative (between the 76v battery and the converter), right?
What resistance should I use, what is the function of this and what should be its correct position?
With this you would solve all my doubts about this topic.

Merlin, each motor is unique, even having the same motor and winding, will never be 100% equal.
From what I have learned, when you select a new PWR timing value, you need to look for the correction angle and the new Ind timing.

Before having this configuration that I have now, I put one that had the PWR timing low (the recommended one), with a high Ind timing, and I got with the raised wheel 123km / hour without OVS. Of course, it warmed up very fast.
Now with my current configuration I have about 70C ° when I use it in Boost aggressively.

With 22S you have to go flying, you need a highway for those speeds!
17 KW !? Incredible

I believe that at 8Kw with the PWR high timing, it delivers more acceleration than at 14Kw with the PWR low.
This value may influence the time it takes the controller to give instant power when accelerating.
As if it were a power regulation or something like that.

In short, carrying an incorrect value softens the acceleration too much, and can also make it uncontrollable.
His thing is to find a midpoint between a good acceleration and a good control of the accelerator without going over the nerve.

Offroader said:

.8 PWM is real low. My bike felt so weak with those low values. I will have to set my PWM lower and see exactly where I get more power with my higher PWM.

Click to expand...

To be exact it is called PWR timing
From what i found out the optimal value depends on a lot of things. I even had to adjust this timing after i upgraded the phase wires on one motor!
So aside from battery voltage, it defintiely depends on the motor inductance and resistance.

To find the optimal value i always ride up a long hill at full throttle (at least you should apply full throttle a few times) and watch the motor temperature. Than i set one value higher or lower and do the same. The lower the increase in heat, the better it is.

Autodetect is anyway only good for getting the right hall / phase combo, and maybe angle_corr. Otherwise it's not much useful..

For my DC/DC converter I use two switches. One for precharge, I believe i use a 300-500OHM resistor. The other is without a resistor for on/off. I found you need to precharge the DC/DC converter or you will wear out your main switch quickly. I use any cheap push button switch since its low amps from my 72 volt wire going to my DC/DC converter.

I'm not sure if I set up my angle correction and Ind timing after changing my PWR, will have to re-check those settings.

Here is a pic of my DC/DC converter under my motorcycle seat.

What you see are two push button switches, one precharge, one on/off.
A 12 volt 3 amp fuse (I believe its 3 amp). This is rated for 12 volts DC but better than nothing as its hard to impossible to find proper 72 volt DC fuses.
I added in a small volt gauge, you can see its reading 12.4 volts. This is on when the power to the DC/DC converter is on. I also thought this will make it a easy way to see if I the DC converter is on or off, but my battery temp gauge up front is what I look at.
Also there is a 12 volt to 5 volt usb adapter rated at 2 amps, this is to power my rear dash cam / action cam.

The 3rd push button switch turns the USB adapter on and off.

I just hot glued all this stuff onto the DC/DC converter. All this stuff is cheap china stuff, so why not add it on.

This DC/DC converter also sends power to the front of my bike for my lights and heated grips during winter time and to my electronic speed controller that powers my hub motor fan.

This 12 volt DC/DC converter still amazes me how it still works. I have already used this on another bike build and have used it for 3 years. I run this thing at really high amps, sometimes over 10 amps for short durations. The thing just doesn't want to break. It is also constantly being vibrated on my bike.

This bad boy right here is the ultimate 72 volt DC/DC converter. I bought this off ebay but never hooked it up since my current cheap china converter still functions and never got around to installing this one.

This thing requires an external heatsink, or you really should mount one.

This is a Vicor and one of the few companies I found that makes a decent 72 volt to 12 volt DC/DC converter.

This thing will work from 55-100 volts. It will output about 17 amps at 12 volts. It has thermal shutdown and lots of good stuff.

I got this to be able to run multiple LED high powered lights, my cooling fan at high wattage, my heated grips during winter, both my front and rear dash cams, without overheating and breaking. I bought it for around $50 bucks on ebay. Will require a heat sink which they sell many types for this size.

Vicor has another version which allows much more voltage adjustment and is smaller, you could go 8 volts to 15 volts, but it has a higher no load draw.

Datasheet:
http://cdn.vicorpower.com/documents/datasheets/ds_vi-200.pdf

Thank you very much for the help. I really appreciate it.
Now I have resolved all my doubts on the subject of DC / DC converters.

I've spent all night watching converters.

$ 50 on ebay? You have triumphed!
In Mouser is for almost € 180.

Chinese DC / DC converter of 10A (6A real) of about € 10 with shipping, like the one you have, is a tempting offer, and the dimensions are not bad.
 
To all this, I have seen the Vicor V72C12T150BN in Mouser.
150W
43v to 110v input
12v to 12.5A output
59, 3g (weighs 3 times less than the VI-241-EU 178g)
Dimensions: 57.9mm x 36.8mm x 12.7mm (occupies less than half of the VI-241-EU).
Price 127€ (Both this and the VI-241-EU seem expensive to me but sometimes you have to pay a bit more for not get out ablaze, it's a saying).

I believe that for the use that I am going to give, 12.5A is fine, apart from the fact that the VI 241-EU is twice as big, And I would not enter in the saddle hollow. In the motorcycle seat there is a lot more space, someday I'll have it...

If I am not mistaken in anything, this model should satisfy my needs, I hope so.

By the way, I have already repaired the flashlight battery.
I went to a battery store in my city and they had the Pcb 2S plates I was looking for.
The seller told me they are from 3A.

The battery lasts about 3 and a half hours at maximum power of light, and having 6.6A capacity.
Therefore its consumption then it is 1.88A, so with 2A it would be right and 3A is fine I think.