My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

Mantsos said:
Tom L said:
Mantsos said:
...
Also what I little bit wondering now is that when I brake using rear brake that rear hub keep some noise like "bang, bang, bang, bang" and what harder I brake that bigger is that noise. I thought first that noise coming that's why because brake pads are new but that noise has not ended.
Click to expand...
Did you find out what was causing this?
I noticed on my ride to work this morning that the rear brake was vibrating quite a bit when braking hard. Not a "bang" noise but disconcerting none the less. I cant see anything obviously wrong with it.
Click to expand...

Not yet. :| I was have to book a maintenance time to my local ebike store if they can solve that problem. There is video from that noise(s) -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jllfmSpAbEA and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swoY3A6ugsw I guess that noise could come also from the spokes but I am not sure. My local ebike store told that noise also could come from the bent frame!? Or bent rim but they will check these things. I also changed rear axle to new one but that doesn't help. I will get my bike back tomorrow so let's see...
Click to expand...


Yesterday I released my bike and it makes exactly the same noise.
Please, if you guess what is due, let me know to try to fix it
Regards
 
Paikan. I have a bad news.

They called for me from my local ebike store and told that my bike back frame is bent about 0,5cm :( So that is the maybe reason why my bike keeps that noise. Also it could be good idea to check your bike rear axle and drop out threads from the inside because mine drop out was taken little bit damage. And because that back frame is bent about 0,5cm was that axle also little bit tight when I tried to take it out. I am going to send that report to Ivy so let's see what happens next.
 
Hey,
what is correct tool to remove the cranks? My old puller didn´t work.

edit. So are these ISIS cranks or Octalink or something completely else.
 
nataS@phnet.fi said:
what is correct tool to remove the cranks? My old puller didn´t work.

edit. So are these ISIS cranks or Octalink or something completely else.
Click to expand...

they are ISIS. This is strange because a square taper puller should work with them.

Did you try some grease ? Maybe the puller didn't went all the way in ? See this excellent parktool video for many tips.





Mantsos said:
told that my bike back frame is bent about 0,5cm :( So that is the maybe reason why my bike keeps that noise. Also it could be good idea to check your bike rear axle and drop out threads from the inside because mine drop out was taken little bit damage. And because that back frame is bent about 0,5cm was that axle also little bit tight when I tried to take it out.
Click to expand...

I saw that on my non-road-tested-yet frame too.

If I tighten fully the derailleur hanger screws, the thru axle bolt is hard to screw / unscrew.
If I don't screw the hanger and let it free float, the TA bolt goes in/out very nicely.

Might this be a design issue with the frames' backend ?
Might that explain the at least 2 reported axle bolt and pawl failures ?

This is worth investigating...
 
Thanks,
i as a matter of a fact run into same video earlier. It seems my square taper one is narrower from the other side so it doesn´t attach to the crank but just goes all the way inside, the ISIS puller seems to be wider from backside. My puller is maybe from the 90´s so it could be that in newer ones are all wider so "one size fits all". NIce pic, explains it all!
 
I had the same trouble with my square taper puller. It worked for my 2008 Giant Alias but not this bike. While the tool threads on to the crank fine, you can see in Ivanovitch's photo above the ISIS has a much larger inner diameter. The centre of the puller just slips right inside with nothing to lever against.
 
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-Bb-Park-Bbt-32-20t-W32mm-Sh-isis/222992329221?epid=1701594504&hash=item33eb60ea05%3Ag%3A45UAAOSwe25bCFB9&_nkw=isis+bb+tool&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2056088.m4084.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xisis+bb.TRS0

This should work for isis bottom bracket
 
Tom L said:
I had the same trouble with my square taper puller. It worked for my 2008 Giant Alias but not this bike. While the tool threads on to the crank fine, you can see in Ivanovitch's photo above the ISIS has a much larger inner diameter. The centre of the puller just slips right inside with nothing to lever against.
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There is a separate larger diameter tip for the puller, that fits the bigger bore ISIS shafts.
You could improvise one from a suitable thick washer or similar..
https://www.pushys.com.au/topeak-universal-crank-puller.html

.
TOLM said:
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-Bb-Park-Bbt-32-20t-W32mm-Sh-isis

This should work for isis bottom bracket
Click to expand...
Yes it does but, ... That tool is for removing the whole BB bearing cassette...not the cranks from the shaft.
 
Hillhater said:
Tom L said:
I had the same trouble with my square taper puller. It worked for my 2008 Giant Alias but not this bike. While the tool threads on to the crank fine, you can see in Ivanovitch's photo above the ISIS has a much larger inner diameter. The centre of the puller just slips right inside with nothing to lever against.
Click to expand...
There is a separate larger diameter tip for the puller, that fits the bigger bore ISIS shafts.
You could improvise one from a suitable thick washer or similar..
https://www.pushys.com.au/topeak-universal-crank-puller.html

.
TOLM said:
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-Bb-Park-Bbt-32-20t-W32mm-Sh-isis

This should work for isis bottom bracket
Click to expand...
Yes it does but, ... That tool is for removing the whole BB bearing cassette...not the cranks from the shaft.
Click to expand...

My bad sorry. I am using the same crank tool for both my square taper and isis bb. The round piece at the end of tool is very important for isis bb

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Bike-Crankset-Crank-Arm-Puller-Remover-Removal-Tool/282859862633?epid=2152494537&hash=item41dbc2fa69%3Ag%3AHxAAAOSwmKJakMHj&_sop=12&_sacat=0&_nkw=crank+tool&_from=R40&rt=nc
 
Yes its important..as you have discovered it doesnt work without it !
But it is only a metal "plug" of the correct dia to fit inside the crank splines and rest against the shaft shoulder.
As i said its possible to make one, ...no big deal.
...but the correct "universal "tool is only $20 new !
 
One could also buy self extracting isis bolts (in the tool less variant) instead of a compatible puller. I don’t know if they work with standard isis cranks tho...

I have the SRAM EX-1 isis crankset and they come with these. You only need an 8mm hex bit for both install & removal :D !
 
Mantsos said:
Paikan. I have a bad news.

They called for me from my local ebike store and told that my bike back frame is bent about 0,5cm :( So that is the maybe reason why my bike keeps that noise. Also it could be good idea to check your bike rear axle and drop out threads from the inside because mine drop out was taken little bit damage. And because that back frame is bent about 0,5cm was that axle also little bit tight when I tried to take it out. I am going to send that report to Ivy so let's see what happens next.
Click to expand...

Hi Mantsos:
The noise only appears when the motor is working at high amperage rates. When the motor is off, there is no sound, so yesterday I try not force the motor monitoring watts in screen, and and the sound was louder...

By the way, I´m going to check rear axle...but i d´ont know how check that 0,5 cm of the rear frame :(

Regads
 
FREYebikes said:
Hi Daniel,

Please don't worry. We will be responsible for you. I've replied you by email.

DaninSpain said:
DISASTER: 40km from home, 95 in the shade

My biggest fear about ordering this bike was what happens if something really major goes wrong.

Today, 40km from home it did all go wrong. The power delivery suddenly became really juddery, followed shortly after by a horrible noise from the motor, and then I lost all power. I could hear the motor turning, but no propulsion.

I had to cycle a 30kg bike 40km in 95 degrees to get home. Pretty brutal.

I wanted to make a quick video to show what's happening, but now it won't even switch on. To say I'm gutted doesn't come close :(

I have ridden my AM1000 almost every day since I got it 4 months ago, and have loved it. It's done 800 miles, and I keep on top of basic maintenance such as checking for loose nuts and bolts, cleaning chain, adjusting gear cable etc.

My riding is not aggressive, usually between level 1 and 3 (sport mode). Off-Road 40% On-Road 60%.

It's lovingly cleaned whenever I've been off-road and I stick to the easy stuff with nothing too taxing. The bike has had an easy life so far.

I ordered the bike in February 2018 and was told it has the steel gear, not the nylon, but it does feel motor gear related.

I'm REALLY hoping that Frey do not abandon me, that they take this seriously and get it sorted ASAP. I've just sent Ivy an email to explain and ask her what she needs from me to get my bike fixed under the warranty. Any which way, it looks like it's going to be as while before I'm back in the saddle :(

The thought of taking apart the motor to replace gears fills me with dread.

Anyone any ideas what could have gone wrong?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Ivy has asked me to remove the motor and return it to China, but I'm having problems removing the retaining bolts holding the motor in place.
I’m having problems removing the retaining bolts.

I have tried 2 approaches:

Removed the lock nut on the right side, then tried to unscrew the Allen nut on the left side. The whole retaining bolt just rotates and nothing happens

Then I replaced the lock nut on the right side and tried to undo the Allen nut on the left side, but it absolutely will not move. If I apply anymore force I will break or strip the Allen key.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Dan
 
Take the nuts off and belt the bolts out with a hammer and a steel rod (I used an old T30 torx screwdriver). Seriously. They aren't threaded, just really tight. By using a rod centred on the bolt you are less likely to roll over the thread with the hammer.
 
Tom L said:
Take the nuts off and belt the bolts out with a hammer and a steel rod (I used an old T30 torx screwdriver). Seriously. They aren't threaded, just really tight. By using a rod centred on the bolt you are less likely to roll over the thread with the hammer.
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Brilliant. Thanks Tom. I'll grit my teeth and give it a whack :shock:

Update: Done it :D It's hard to apply violence if you're not sure it's the right move.
 
Can anyone help me identify the name of the tool I need to remove this ring?
Thanks

2018-07-14 18.00.52.jpg
 
you can use luna wrench or the bottom bracket shimano TL-FCsomething tool (beware, there are different Ø that look almost the same).
 
Wow - great job getting it home - I would have called a tow truck! Keep us posted! I don't have mine yet, should be getting close to completion. I am riding a Rad Rover now, really looking forward to trying the AM. I will say the RAD has been an amazing bike thus far, this will be even better.
 
Ivanovitch_k said:
you can use luna wrench or the bottom bracket shimano TL-FCsomething tool (beware, there are different Ø that look almost the same).
Click to expand...
Thanks Ivanovich_k.
I took the motor into my local bike shop, and after the staff member picked up his jaw at the size, weight and power of the motor (he's used to Bosch and Yamaha 250w power plants), he came up with the correct tool.
I want to give the size and details, but nowhere on the packaging does it give any sizing details.
View attachment 22018-07-16 13.53.34.jpg
 
DaninSpain said:
I want to give the size and details, but nowhere on the packaging does it give any sizing details.
Click to expand...

If the lockring is 16 notch, 48.5mm, then the Park BBT-29 should work. The BBT-9 will not work. The Luna Bafang tool will work (I just measured it). The Shimano TL-FC36 tool... maybe?

That's cool that they had one with a nice handle; with the double-sided ones or the Luna tool, you're stuck with a thin metal edge to grip.
 
DaninSpain said:
Not good news for those of us in the EU :(
https://uk.reuters.com/article/us-e...imit-imports-of-chinese-e-bikes-idUKKBN1K816H
Click to expand...


Ouch! They are looking at tariffs on them for US as well.

I just got notified that the EX-1 set will not be available until sometime in August, Ivy and team will ship the bike as is with the standard set and then ship that later. Looking forward to getting the bike! I have a Rad Rover and a mini now that I really enjoy, can't wait to try the AM1000!
 
I guess the concern over mass imports and market flooding could be genuine concern after seeing this...

https://www.theatlantic.com/photo/2018/03/bike-share-oversupply-in-china-huge-piles-of-abandoned-and-broken-bicycles/556268/
 
Hello,
also bought a Frey AM1000 one month ago - and still love it. it is really a cool bike...

concerning the battery lock:
i dont think that a longer bolt will solve the problem because the hole in the battery would have to be deeper which is not the case i think.
but i recognized that the bolt of the lock was adjusted. it is not curved at the end anymore. i think this little adjustment might prevent unwanted openings or am i wrong ?
 

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... can anyone suggest an appropriate LED light (front/rear) for this bike, that is removable for the trails?

How is everyone finding their AM1000? Still not too many reviews/videos on it.
 
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