Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

If we just had a schematic of the Adaptto, it would be sooooo simple to troubleshoot the different problems that appeared throughout the years. :roll:

I haven't followed the thread, so I don't know about the mod. Probably a resistor in series with the wiper of the pot.
Or if we want to limit the range of voltage to the same as a Hall sensor (0.8V - 4.0V), we could add... let me calculate, 1560 ohms to the +5V line, and 1250 ohms to the GND line, for a 5K pot.

That CTS pot is a very high quality one, should last forever if current or thermal limits are not exceeded.
 
Altair said:
If we just had a schematic of the Adaptto, it would be sooooo simple to troubleshoot the different problems that appeared throughout the years. :roll:

I haven't followed the thread, so I don't know about the mod. Probably a resistor in series with the wiper of the pot.
Or if we want to limit the range of voltage to the same as a Hall sensor (0.8V - 4.0V), we could add... let me calculate, 1560 ohms to the +5V line, and 1250 ohms to the GND line, for a 5K pot.

That CTS pot is a very high quality one, should last forever if current or thermal limits are not exceeded.

The resistor mod consists in a 100 Ohm resistor (1/2-watt) between the throttle +5V and ground.
But I want to try the left hand thumb throttle used for variable regen. This one could be mounted on my handlebar:
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Thumb-Throttle-Both-Ways-Right-or-Left-Hand-Electric-Bike-e-bike-Scooter-/163009375370
 
Hi guys. After my midi broke down, I am pretty tired of adaptto. I wanted to buy a max-e but Envolt and Vectorebike won't get them again - they told me. So I am about to abandon Adaptto one and for all, eventho i really like them.

Does anyone know if its possible to use the adaptto bms system together with this Sabvoton system?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sabvoton-72v-150a-electric-bike-controller-sine-wave-system-with-programmable-connector-To-PC/32829010701.html
If not what BMS can you suggest for a 20s6p battery - I would like to be able to use regen-breaking, and the bms should cut off if the battery is under too high presssure.
Thanks!
 
bigbore said:
The resistor mod consists in a 100 Ohm resistor (1/2-watt) between the throttle +5V and ground.

So the resistor is just placed in parallel with the pot supply?
It won't protect anything then, the only effect is to draw more current from the controller.
:?
 
Altair said:
bigbore said:
The resistor mod consists in a 100 Ohm resistor (1/2-watt) between the throttle +5V and ground.

So the resistor is just placed in parallel with the pot supply?
It won't protect anything then, the only effect is to draw more current from the controller.
:?

Yes, between GND and +5V (i think brown and black wire). It is just there to drain current (and stabilizing the supply?) - nothing else.

But when i soldered 100ohm the supply voltage dropped from 4,5V to 3,5V, which means the voltage range will be different in thr_calibration (but not the useful range of the throttle).
It should be no problem if you using a push button as brake switch, but a hall sensor based e-brake could have problems with the low voltage as they usually need a stable 5V.

Because of that i soldered a 1k resistor which should be also enough, but better ask Adaptto.
 
mpmoller said:
Hi guys. After my midi broke down, I am pretty tired of adaptto. I wanted to buy a max-e but Envolt and Vectorebike won't get them again - they told me. So I am about to abandon Adaptto one and for all, eventho i really like them.

Does anyone know if its possible to use the adaptto bms system together with this Sabvoton system?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sabvoton-72v-150a-electric-bike-controller-sine-wave-system-with-programmable-connector-To-PC/32829010701.html
If not what BMS can you suggest for a 20s6p battery - I would like to be able to use regen-breaking, and the bms should cut off if the battery is under too high presssure.
Thanks!

I'm sorry you are going to abandon Adaptto but I doubt you will find a 150A BMS for your battery. As you already know the BMS and some other features are unique to Adaptto.
 
madin88 said:
Altair said:
bigbore said:
The resistor mod consists in a 100 Ohm resistor (1/2-watt) between the throttle +5V and ground.

So the resistor is just placed in parallel with the pot supply?
It won't protect anything then, the only effect is to draw more current from the controller.
:?

Yes, between GND and +5V (i think brown and black wire). It is just there to drain current (and stabilizing the supply?) - nothing else.

But when i soldered 100ohm the supply voltage dropped from 4,5V to 3,5V, which means the voltage range will be different in thr_calibration (but not the useful range of the throttle).
It should be no problem if you using a push button as brake switch, but a hall sensor based e-brake could have problems with the low voltage as they usually need a stable 5V.

Because of that i soldered a 1k resistor which should be also enough, but better ask Adaptto.

I will use the hall throttle as variable regen brake without any resistance because other users reported it act similar to the resistance mod. and at the same time I want to try variable regen brake
 
Variable regen brake issue:
Today I have connected a thumb throttle with hall sensor to the brake signal at my Max-e controller running RC9G4 firmware wich I have been using from 2016 with a Domino pot throttle and a button as regen brake.
I can not use the variable regen because when I open the Domino throttle I have both throttle and brake effects. In throttle limits I see the cursor moving but at the same time I also see the brake cursor moving (same as when I apply brake) in brake limits.
This Max-e is of the first products and I got from Alex in 2015, do you think the hardware was not built to use variable regen?
 
you have shorted the brake and throttle signal wire...
 
No, the brake button still worked properly. The impression is that when I opened the gas throttle (pot) the resistance variation affected the output signal of the brake hall throttle.
 
bigbore said:
No, the brake button still worked properly. The impression is that when I opened the gas throttle (pot) the resistance variation affected the output signal of the brake hall throttle.
did you do the 100Ohm resistor mod? Because when i was doing it the supply voltage dropped from 4,5V to 3,5V (rough numbers) and i think a too low supply voltage can cause problems together with hall based e-brakes or throttles.

i also would check if there is no problem with the wiring and the small 4-pole connector. I once had a broken GND connection which lead to a similar issue as you described.
 
Another video where you can see experimental controller from Jeka.
In the beginning of the video, Andreym is assembling the case of the new controller, Jeka is standing to the right.
Next frame, Jeka is pulling out his experimental mid-drive. Supposed to be Adapttos bike back in like 2013, but never got to the next phase.
The guy talking is driving on a magic pie at 8kW(with experimental controller) without overheating(his special air cooling), in front of him is Andreym with a cromotor(and experimental controller) and they are running temperature test in the video

[youtube]hDo5RcfmIAI[/youtube]
 
Wow :D what a crazy place it is!
Build your very own electric motor bike and go riding on a four-lane street way as fast as possible!
Anyway the controller seems to work very well, what else do they have to test?
 
Yeah his solution has been covered here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48753&p=1330847&hilit=russia#p1330847

Currently the best cooling mod avail - beats everything else!
Best part is that you can ride on the street if is is your own creation over there, thats why they can ride as the do in the video.

I have no idea on ETA or other things. Give it a year or better - two!
 
Allex said:
Yeah his solution has been covered here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48753&p=1330847&hilit=russia#p1330847

Currently the best cooling mod avail - beats everything else!
Best part is that you can ride on the street if is is your own creation over there, thats why they can ride as the do in the video.

I have no idea on ETA or other things. Give it a year or better - two!

I don't see how its the best cooling mod available when I have basically done this a while ago by using a design made by madin88 from 2015, I already upgraded to a new design with a larger 40mm edf fan. This sucks in fresh air and circulates it through the wingdings, and exhausts the air out of different holes.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1291143#p1291143

[youtube]VchIApATnH4[/youtube]

aMRCjQd.jpg


I had my first design running in 2015
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1071238#p1071238


I really don't see how the Russian design is much different than the fan modification I run. They just have the fan and ductwork on the outside of the motor, while I have my fan on the inside. I push 60-70 watts through my single 40mm fan, and I could easily mount 4 40mm fans inside my motor. The fan that the Russians used is only rated at 16 watts. Really he has achieved the same thing I have, I just have my fans internally and he has them externally.

The advantage of mine is that there is less clutter on the bike, you don't need ductwork on your bike to make it look like a beast and possibly get in the way of suspension and when riding.

But I'm glad someone else is finally using serious fan air cooling and not just Ferro
 
Offroader said:
I don't see how its the best cooling mod available when I have basically done this a while ago by using a design made by madin88 from 2015, I already upgraded to a new design with a larger 40mm edf fan. This sucks in fresh air and circulates it through the wingdings, and exhausts the air out of different holes.

Every setup has it's pros and cons. The EDF definitely has more air throughput and much higher pressure as those server fans.
What i really like about the russian solution is the benefit of an air filter which should keep the motor cleaner inside, and that exhaust and air intake are far from each other placed.
 
Not saying he was first, just that air cooling is the best.
Cant remember the details, but he decided against the EDFs after tests, think it was because the short life span?
He uses one very specific sever cooler that generates best pressure. Best part that it never brakes as it has unique sealed bearings. I mean these things are made to run for years in a dirty data centre(at worst)
Did you ever had to change your edf cooler?
 
I didn't want to cut off any of the extra wires/plugs on my Midi-E in case they are needed later on, but this left me with a bulky mess of wires at the base of my controller.

So I made a 3D printed wire cover for my Midi-E on my Alpha. It took about 5 prototype revisions before I was happy with it, but now I can keep all the original wires/plugs and cover it all up nicely. :)

Wire Cover.JPG

DSC_4700.JPG
View attachment 2DSC_4698.JPGDSC_4697.JPGDSC_4696.JPGView attachment 6
It is held on by magnets I glued into pre-made holes.
DSC_4693.JPGDSC_4689.JPG

This is what it's hiding shown inside one of my many prototypes with the top ripped off.
DSC_4688.JPG

If anyone would like a copy of the print you can find it here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3029639

I would suggest tweaking it to suit as everyone mounts their controller in a different spot, but the overall design should work. :)
I plan on changing the design and making another one for my Fighter's Mini-E next.

Cheers
 
Does anyone have the current unlocked password-protected firmware for a MIDI-E?

I've scoured this thread and found what looks to be the locked version, but I've never seen anyone mention the existence of an unlocked, password-protected firmware.

Luckily I haven't unlocked my firmware yet, so I should be able to flash this locked, pw protected RC9G4 firmware. However, I've just recently added heatsinks to my midi-e, and the voltage is low enough (20S) that inductive spikes from the motor shouldn't be a problem, so the unlocked firmware is starting to seem really appealing to me.

So, I've got a choice, either password protected or unlocked. I've tried emailing adaptto, but the address bounced saying it doesn't exist.

Also, I've heard there's a russian forum that has a lot more active adaptto users, could anyone give me the link to that?

Thanks so much!
 
Merlin said:
not worth i think for some amps on top......dont dance with the devil.....if you brick your midi-e you have to put back your cycle analyst on the bar with other controller :p

Fair enough, I really don't want to kill this thing. However, maxed out at 120A batt, 300A phase, with the new heatsinks installed, I can give it WOT for a full minute without it getting above 55C. And that's with my controller under floorboards with little to no airflow. When I mount this thing on the outside of my frame it'll be getting a lot more air.

So, that's the thermal risk, and I think I'm within the margin of safety here. The other risk I read about is voltage spikes, but apparently with 20S and a max of 84V, that's not really a concern.

Other than a bad flash, what other dangers could there be?
 
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