New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

KD5ZXG said:
casainho said:
And here OpenSource firmware for STM8 read DS18B20: https://github.com/eddyem/STM8_samples/blob/master/1-wire/onewire.c
STM8 chip also offers free internal temperature sensor,
already in the same enclosure as the motor. Not saying
as accurate or fast as direct contact...

https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/application_note/46/07/39/dd/1d/f8/46/7a/DM00028336.pdf/files/DM00028336.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.DM00028336.pdf
Thanks!!
That was one of my first thoughts but the STM8S line used on TSDZ2 do not has that internal sensor according to the datasheet.
 
jur said:
Hillhater said:
Grant,..
sorry , i intended to add, you could try just stripping and cleaning that internal roller clutch whilst you are waiting for a new gear to arrive.
It may just be gummed up and sticky with all the use you have on it !
Good luck.
EDIT : ..there is also the possibility that the stub shaft with the pinion gear, that the blue gear fits on, is worn on the clutch surface, again resulting in lack of drive. You might want to replace that also just in case ?
A previous poster reported a broken main motor shaft. That would correspond with a clunk and then no further power delivered.

Thanks for the comments. I have some more information which may identify the problem. When the wheel is held stationary the crank arms still turn but with a bit of effort by hand. They even do this when the motor is removed from the housing. Therefore I'm wondering whether the problem may be in the spindle assembly rather than anything to do with the motor?

I noted that r0mko posted something similar on Jul 13, 2017 about a broken spindle.

I'm assuming they shouldn't, but could someone confirm that the cranks shouldn't turn at all when stationary. If that's the problem then is it fixable with a spare part?

I also pulled the internal electric motor apart and there wasn't anything obviously broken. I noted that the motor shaft didn't turn (does it only turn when electrified?).

Thanks,
Grant
 
feketehegyi said:
Hillhater said:
For those of us still using the VLDC5 display , which has a USB port.. (Reported to be a 5v Phone charger only ??) ...is it possible we could simply use a suitable USB Bluetooth "dongle" and fix some jumper links from the display board to pick up the RX & TX connections to the USB port ?
This would avoid the 5v and 3.3v requirements , and retain the original controls (on off etc),
Probably totally impossible ????
There's bidirectional communication between Motor and LCD. If you would like to have both, then the DIY display should be passive only. Just to show the values, not to send anything to Motor as that would interfere with stock LCD sendings.
For RX, TX you either need a HC05 or similar module to convert to Bluetooth, or a usb to serial converter if it is wired.


Feketehegyi and Casainho


1 - Would it be possible to have the Casainho firmware to be configured through an app on a smartphone via bluetooth?

And have, following the firmware configuration, the trip information to be displayed on an LCD3 type screen?

Could it be Casainho LCD3 working in "passive" mode or would it have to be another display to show the same functions?

Could you keep the bluetooth module and the passive display physically connected at the same time?

2 - If this environment were possible could you have the smartphone, in the pocket of a jersey, to communicate via Bluetooth with the TSDZ2 motor, with the screen off memorizing travel data?

3 - Or, in another possibility, could the smartphone also be displaying the trip data on the screen simultaneously with the display?

thanks
 
Hi, Please could someone tell me where i can found the lastest casaihno's firmware for TSDZ2 and LCD3 display?
This page:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TongSheng_TSDZ2_motor_controller_firmware/tree/master/TSDZ2_original_firmware_and_improved
doesn't exist anymore...
Where can i found some information for the configuration of the motor with new firmware (I.e. wheel diameter, max power, battery voltage configuration etc)?
Thanks

Maurizio
 
mauri_78 said:
Hi, Please could someone tell me where i can found the lastest casaihno's firmware for TSDZ2 and LCD3 display?
This page:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TongSheng_TSDZ2_motor_controller_firmware/tree/master/TSDZ2_original_firmware_and_improved
doesn't exist anymore...
Where can i found some information for the configuration of the motor with new firmware (I.e. wheel diameter, max power, battery voltage configuration etc)?
Thanks

Maurizio
Version 0.2
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TongSheng_TSDZ2_motor_controller_firmware/tree/master/TSDZ2_flexible_opensource_and_KT_LCD3_firmwares
 
Guys please see my first video for the opensource firmware, it’s just a basic introduction at this stage but more to come soon
[youtube]nj8GxKHut3o[/youtube]
 
Hi,

About the purchase the TSDZ2 to swap out a Bafang BBS01B. One point giving me pause is the bottom bracket width.

My bottom bracket is 70mm wide (Gazelle Cabby cargo bike). There appears to be two widths for the TSDZ2, 68mm or 73mm. Some advice on which way to lean from prior installations would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Steve
 
mctubster said:
Hi,

About the purchase the TSDZ2 to swap out a Bafang BBS01B. One point giving me pause is the bottom bracket width.

My bottom bracket is 70mm wide (Gazelle Cabby cargo bike). There appears to be two widths for the TSDZ2, 68mm or 73mm. Some advice on which way to lean from prior installations would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Steve

There is no difference. If you order the 73mm bb model you will receive 2 extra 5mm longer bolts and 2 extra spacers. These are used for the side bracket mounting. You may need to use 2 small 2mm thick washers when you mount the side bracket on the side opposite the chainring due to your bb being 2mm wider than a 68mm bb. You might also need two small bolts that are a little longer, although maybe the stock bolts will be ok.

The one thing you may want to verify is that the chainstays do not extend out wider than the bb otherwise they may make contact with the dish portion of the motor housing before the motor presses against the bb.
 
There is no difference. If you order the 73mm bb model you will receive 2 extra 5mm longer bolts and 2 extra spacers.

Perfect, thank you for the reply. Looking forward to comparing to the Bafang
 
I did open the burned motor and I found interesting things -- now I know where I should place the temperature sensor :)

My full notes: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/TSDZ2-motor-demagnetized-due-to-heating-to-high-temperature

I think the motor got to much because their is signs of that (seems it get the higher temperature on the side of phase wires, probably because currents are strong there). Although the coils could be in short circuit, they aren't but I verified that the magnets are much weak on the more brown/burned side (I verified the attraction to a piece of metal).
TSDZ2_demagnetized_motor-05.jpg
 
It sounds like the lesson here is that 18a for sustained periods is quite bad for the motor. 18a might be ok if you ride in the upper rpm range most of the time and therefore mostly running at lower power levels. If I can run at 62v I think I will lower the amps to 13 or 14 to be safe. But if you are noticing the motor cutting out due to heat it is probably a good idea to take that as a sign that your amp settings are too high for your riding style and environment and let it cool down and lower the amps before riding again.

I have everything here but the kt-lcd3 display and the battery charger. Perhaps I can start working on the upgrade next week if it all arrives.

Has anyone found a compatible connector for the kt-lcd3 display and the tsdz2 so we don't have to cut the plug off that comes out of the motor? That wire and connector is very short.
 
John and Cecil said:
It sounds like the lesson here is that 18a for sustained periods is quite bad for the motor. 18a might be ok if you ride in the upper rpm range most of the time and therefore mostly running at lower power levels. If I can run at 62v I think I will lower the amps to 13 or 14 to be safe. But if you are noticing the motor cutting out due to heat it is probably a good idea to take that as a sign that your amp settings are too high for your riding style and environment and let it cool down and lower the amps before riding again.

I have everything here but the kt-lcd3 display and the battery charger. Perhaps I can start working on the upgrade next week if it all arrives.

Has anyone found a compatible connector for the kt-lcd3 display and the tsdz2 so we don't have to cut the plug off that comes out of the motor? That wire and connector is very short.


One option is to leave the stock connector intact, but of you open the small compartment behind the chain ring that the wires come out of, you can tap into the bare wires themselves, shove the stock connector end in there for safekeeping, then run out the new wire you made stemming from the small spliced wires - if that makes sense...

Otherwise, I myself am hanging onto any bad/broken/faulty display to use the connector on those ~ plug and play... So far I have 1, about to be 2! Big progress, hahaha
 
John and Cecil said:
But if you are noticing the motor cutting out due to heat it is probably a good idea to take that as a sign that your amp settings are too high for your riding style and environment and let it cool down and lower the amps before riding again.
I think that everytime we get the cutting out, the motor get a bit more weak and forever, because magnets are getting demagnetized.

John and Cecil said:
Has anyone found a compatible connector for the kt-lcd3 display and the tsdz2 so we don't have to cut the plug off that comes out of the motor?
Forget about that. That would be a connector for a very specific application, no one will put that on the market. You need to DIY and it is not hard with the right tools.
 
eyebyesickle said:
One option is to leave the stock connector intact, but of you open the small compartment behind the chain ring that the wires come out of, you can tap into the bare wires themselves, shove the stock connector end in there for safekeeping, then run out the new wire you made stemming from the small spliced wires - if that makes sense...

Otherwise, I myself am hanging onto any bad/broken/faulty display to use the connector on those ~ plug and play... So far I have 1, about to be 2! Big progress, hahaha

That sounds like a good idea, thank you :) I guess perhaps we can tap in with wires already going to a connector that the kt display already uses. I wonder if they give you one when you buy the display, that would be nice :)
 
you can cut the display cable here and install your own connector here inside the housing ?
 

Attachments

  • 2018-5t-g5fhars.jpg
    2018-5t-g5fhars.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 2,521
Thanks eyebyesickle for the firmware for the 52 volt motor. I safely used the program data, data memory. 52 volts work very well with the human cadence. Also I installed a 34t gear on the motor. Used a stock spider 110 BCD. Current strength is limited to 13 amps. 650 watts is enough to drive into steep hills. But already approaching to the house the motor began to pull by jerks. If you raise the rear wheel and take the load, then the motor turns the wheel. But if you sit down and use the motor, you can hear a rustle. Apparently the gears are intact, but the one way bearing failed. I opened the specification of this HF1216 bearing and it has a maximum torque of 12.2 Nm. If the motor has 8 teeth on the pinion, and the gear with the overrunning clutch has 36 teeth, assuming the motor delivers a torque of ~ 2.3 Nm (90 Nm on the pedals / total reduction of 38). Bearing load 2.3 * 4.5 = 10.35 Nm (36/8 ratio). It seems that the load is close to destruction. Who thinks anything about this?
 
"Thanks for the comments. I have some more information which may identify the problem. When the wheel is held stationary the crank arms still turn but with a bit of effort by hand. They even do this when the motor is removed from the housing. Therefore I'm wondering whether the problem may be in the spindle assembly rather than anything to do with the motor?

I noted that r0mko posted something similar on Jul 13, 2017 about a broken spindle.

I'm assuming they shouldn't, but could someone confirm that the cranks shouldn't turn at all when stationary. If that's the problem then is it fixable with a spare part?

I also pulled the internal electric motor apart and there wasn't anything obviously broken. I noted that the motor shaft didn't turn (does it only turn when electrified?).

Thanks,
Grant"

Hi Grant, if the pedals turn without the chainring turning, the most likely problem is that the Sprag Clutch (one-way bearing) in the middle of the large diameter drive gear has been damaged.
Another ES member, JBALAT, has made a youtube video on how to replace this clutch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-SY0rGMEMo

That would be the first thing I would be looking at.
 
Yep the sprag clutch transfers your pedal power to your chain this is independent of the motor whether it is running or not. It’s fairly easy to replace if you have a small press. You could probably make something up using an old hydraulic car jack or just go to a local mechanic and see if he can help to remove the old bearing and press the new bearing in. It is a CSK30P check out eBay, I got mine delivered for about $15 !!
This is what my bike was doing
https://youtu.be/PWlz4xw3pI8
 
jbalat said:
you can cut the display cable here and install your own connector here inside the housing ?

What Eyebyesickle is suggesting is that instead of cutting that wire you attach a "quick splice" connector onto each of the individual wires and then run those "quick spliced" wires up to a new connector that attaches to the kt-lcd3 display. Then you can take the original connector and tuck it inside the motor housing so it is not dangling around and reassemble the motor. Then in the future you always have the option to go back to using the stock display.

The real question is where can we get a connector with wires attached that can connect to the kt-lcd3 display? Yhen we can just quick splice those wires to the controller wires and be ready to go :)
 
jbalat said:
Guys please see my first video for the opensource firmware, it’s just a basic introduction at this stage but more to come soon
[youtube]nj8GxKHut3o[/youtube]
That is great!! Together we are developing wonderful technology for EBikes!!

Just a note: I could not figure out yet what is your plan, if talking about the "old" original improved firmware or the flexible OpenSource firmwares. For the later, please refer to this page that has the actual features of it -- I should put soon offline the other page.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/TSDZ2-and-KT-LCD3-advanced-features-with-Flexible-OpenSource-firmwares
 
AZUR said:
Feketehegyi and Casainho


1 - Would it be possible to have the Casainho firmware to be configured through an app on a smartphone via bluetooth?

And have, following the firmware configuration, the trip information to be displayed on an LCD3 type screen?

Could it be Casainho LCD3 working in "passive" mode or would it have to be another display to show the same functions?

Could you keep the bluetooth module and the passive display physically connected at the same time?

2 - If this environment were possible could you have the smartphone, in the pocket of a jersey, to communicate via Bluetooth with the TSDZ2 motor, with the screen off memorizing travel data?

3 - Or, in another possibility, could the smartphone also be displaying the trip data on the screen simultaneously with the display?
1. depends fully fronm Feketehegyi, it is up to him to develop the app for communicating with the Flexible OpenSource firmware.

I know that KT motor controllers use LCD + UART Bluetooth module, but seems there are different UART wires/communication for each of them. This something that no one explored yet on KT OpenSource firmware and I would be very happy if that would happen on TSDZ2... all the information of firmware is Open, so everyone can communicate with it!! Also I am available to explain and help in what I can, if other developers want to join.
 
casainho said:
AZUR said:
Feketehegyi and Casainho


1 - Would it be possible to have the Casainho firmware to be configured through an app on a smartphone via bluetooth?

And have, following the firmware configuration, the trip information to be displayed on an LCD3 type screen?

Could it be Casainho LCD3 working in "passive" mode or would it have to be another display to show the same functions?

Could you keep the bluetooth module and the passive display physically connected at the same time?

2 - If this environment were possible could you have the smartphone, in the pocket of a jersey, to communicate via Bluetooth with the TSDZ2 motor, with the screen off memorizing travel data?

3 - Or, in another possibility, could the smartphone also be displaying the trip data on the screen simultaneously with the display?
1. depends fully fronm Feketehegyi, it is up to him to develop the app for communicating with the Flexible OpenSource firmware.

I know that KT motor controllers use LCD + UART Bluetooth module, but seems there are different UART wires/communication for each of them. This something that no one explored yet on KT OpenSource firmware and I would be very happy if that would happen on TSDZ2... all the information of firmware is Open, so everyone can communicate with it!! Also I am available to explain and help in what I can, if other developers want to join.

1. Yes, I see now no problem why not to implement it for Casainho's OpenSource firmware as well. However I'd first finish it for factory stock firmware.
I've added a "passive" mode switch to the android app. Means it'll only listening for data from motor, not to send anything. User can switch the modus.
I think it can work that there's a bluetooth module connected to RX,TX,GND parallel to LCD and android app will be switched to "passive" only for listening.

2. Well, I'm not sure if it will recording the data with switched off screen - but will test it - as long as I'm ready with data log functionality.
Anyway it's an interesting idea - so will try to implement to work so.

3. Android app can only display what motor controller sends. If you are meaning if stock LCD's Odometer data can be displayed in app, well the answer is no. Currently the app can eg. display the GPS calculated distance.
 
feketehegyi said:
casainho said:
AZUR said:
Feketehegyi and Casainho


1 - Would it be possible to have the Casainho firmware to be configured through an app on a smartphone via bluetooth?

And have, following the firmware configuration, the trip information to be displayed on an LCD3 type screen?

Could it be Casainho LCD3 working in "passive" mode or would it have to be another display to show the same functions?

Could you keep the bluetooth module and the passive display physically connected at the same time?

2 - If this environment were possible could you have the smartphone, in the pocket of a jersey, to communicate via Bluetooth with the TSDZ2 motor, with the screen off memorizing travel data?

3 - Or, in another possibility, could the smartphone also be displaying the trip data on the screen simultaneously with the display?
1. depends fully fronm Feketehegyi, it is up to him to develop the app for communicating with the Flexible OpenSource firmware.

I know that KT motor controllers use LCD + UART Bluetooth module, but seems there are different UART wires/communication for each of them. This something that no one explored yet on KT OpenSource firmware and I would be very happy if that would happen on TSDZ2... all the information of firmware is Open, so everyone can communicate with it!! Also I am available to explain and help in what I can, if other developers want to join.

1. Yes, I see now no problem why not to implement it for Casainho's OpenSource firmware as well. However I'd first finish it for factory stock firmware.
I've added a "passive" mode switch to the android app. Means it'll only listening for data from motor, not to send anything. User can switch the modus.
I think it can work that there's a bluetooth module connected to RX,TX,GND parallel to LCD and android app will be switched to "passive" only for listening.

2. Well, I'm not sure if it will recording the data with switched off screen - but will test it - as long as I'm ready with data log functionality.
Anyway it's an interesting idea - so will try to implement to work so.

3. Android app can only display what motor controller sends. If you are meaning if stock LCD's Odometer data can be displayed in app, well the answer is no. Currently the app can eg. display the GPS calculated distance.

1 - Very good

It seems the only question is whether the hw connection in parallel works.

The hypothesis of putting the android app in passive mode is a solution that allows you to simultaneously run the Casainho firmware as well as the android app.

With this solution you do not have to find another display compatible with the "parallel" mode (if the LCD3 does not work).

If possible, in a next phase (phase 2) it would be important to be able to configure the Casainho firmware with the Android App.

Power level in each level of assistance, battery voltages, current, etc.

2 - When I go hiking I use the APP Runkeeper, in walk mode, with the GPS on.

After starting the activity, I put the Sansung smartphone (SP) in my pocket.
 
I always have the smartphone set to turn off the screen at the end of 30s.

The application continues to run with the screen switched off and every 5 minutes the information about the distance traveled, the rhythm and time of movement, etc. is heard through the loudspeaker.

Whenever I pick up the SP, the screen is switched on and the Runkeeper shows the current values ​​on the screen.

I put the SP back in the pocket and everything goes on as I described earlier.

In the end I get in SP and I close the activity.

The management, of turning off the screen and the Runkeeper continues to function, is done automatically by the SP.

The main problem of the SP, in this type of uses, is the duration of the battery.

For those who do activities, lasting more than 10 hours, battery capacity is a problem.

The screen running permanently spends a lot of battery life.

Therefore, it is convenient, I think, to be able to continue an activity started before, after changing the battery.

3- I think it's pretty good that the saved speed, in SP, is the GPS speed (as well as the distances).

It is much more precise than the speed of the wheel. Whenever the tire pressure varies, the speed also varies and the pressure varies with the temperature ....

Thank you for all contributions.

Azur
 
casainho said:
Just a note: I could not figure out yet what is your plan, if talking about the "old" original improved firmware or the flexible OpenSource firmwares. For the later, please refer to this page that has the actual features of it -- I should put soon offline the other page.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/TSDZ2-and-KT-LCD3-advanced-features-with-Flexible-OpenSource-firmwares

Thanks for that. When I follow your link to the lcd3 open-source firmware I get version 5. If I go to the motor firmware it also contains a folder for lcd3 which is at version 0.2
very confusing
 
jbalat said:
casainho said:
Just a note: I could not figure out yet what is your plan, if talking about the "old" original improved firmware or the flexible OpenSource firmwares. For the later, please refer to this page that has the actual features of it -- I should put soon offline the other page.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/TSDZ2-and-KT-LCD3-advanced-features-with-Flexible-OpenSource-firmwares

Thanks for that. When I follow your link to the lcd3 open-source firmware I get version 5. If I go to the motor firmware it also contains a folder for lcd3 which is at version 0.2
very confusing
Yes, I need to delete that files!
You want the flexible OpenSource firmware files, v0.2.
 
Back
Top