Xiongda YTW-06 mini hub motor

zro-1 said:
Wow! That explains so much. I was wondering why the clutch remained so stiff. The fact that it is located on the rotor explains a lot.

Yeah - they actually call it a "one-way-bearing" to differenciate it from a regular clutch. Still the function remains the same, and I think it should be removed to allow for regen.
 
qwerkus said:
zro-1 said:
Wow! That explains so much. I was wondering why the clutch remained so stiff. The fact that it is located on the rotor explains a lot.

Yeah - they actually call it a "one-way-bearing" to differenciate it from a regular clutch. Still the function remains the same, and I think it should be removed to allow for regen.

If it were that simple, one wonders why no manufacturers do this. I'm betting there's something we are missing. Like perhaps running backwards stresses the gears too much?
 
wturber said:
If it were that simple, one wonders why no manufacturers do this. I'm betting there's something we are missing. Like perhaps running backwards stresses the gears too much?

Don't think that's the issue. The YTW-06 uses straight and helical gears, which both work the same way in either direction. I think it's rather about preventing overheating during regen (even now, the motor runs quite hot) and cost cutting: regen = you need another controller.
 
I got the Bafang G310 and can confirm that the clutch is between the ring gear and the outer shell. A friend with identical G310 blew the gears in 1000 km at 1 KW (20 A at 52V). We just replaced them, filled it with grease and limited it to 700 W. We'll see how long it lasts. I'm really curious to know if the YTW-06's gears can handle 20 A without melting.

8nIobGTr.jpg
 
I've been running my YTW-06 at a max of 54.6V, 20A for about 90 days without issue.

I need to point out (again) that I don't run the motor at that level all the time though. I use a Phaserunner which is a FOC, so the amps delivered are based on throttle. Most of the time I run at 30% throttle which is just 6 amps, and occasionally run at 70% throttle which is 14 amps. I only push the motor to 20 amps when I'm tackling a really hard hill and that's only for about a minute. The motor has been perfect at these power levels without any issue.

If you have a FOC and can control the amps going into the motor you shouldn't have any issues running this at as much as 20 amps. If you have a basic controller however, and you can't control the max amps, then I'd recommend setting a max current of at most 15 amps.
 
We've had a hellish summer here on the west half of the united states.. it's been hot, dry, polluted, and everything's been on fire. Riding a bike has been the last thing on my mind for months.. finally it's looking like we're in the clear.

So anyway.
There is a nut on the freewheel side that made my YTW-06 about 142mm wide or so. Take the nut off, and the motor is 135mm wide but a 7 speed freewheel extrudes past the axle and contacts the frame.. :evil:
And the axle has almost nothing for a shoulder, so forget just throwing a washer on there..

I have an aluminum road bike frame here, so i sure as hell am not going to stretch the drops far..
So being that the nut is maybe.. 8mm? i hit it with an angle grinder and hand file and took almost half the width off the nut.

Now i only need to bend my frame about 3-4mm or so to fit the dropout in.
It's off to get spoked and i'll have some feedback on it's power at low levels soonish.
 
qwerkus said:
If anyone is interested, there is a thread about this motor in a german forum, with many details, including internals:

index.php


It appears that the freewheel is actually located INSIDE THE ROTOR, which means when you're coasting, you're still driving the 2 stage reduction gears. Given that amount of drag already generated by this config, I'd suggest modifying the rotor to remove the freewheel, and try the motor with regen enabled. Should be doable - don't know why Xiongda told me it's impossible. Anyone up to it ?

Yes i'm interested! Do you have a link?

I'm also interested to have a go at doing Regen, but i'm not sure where to start with the motor. I've got a Phaserunner, so can set it up. Xiongda sent me a silver instead of black motor, so they sent another and i have a spare to play/experiment with.

I've also got two broken SWXH that i'm trying to make one good one out of. Burnt out the coil on one and the clutch is stuck on the other, but the clutches aren't coming off either of them.. if anyone has any tips! (i've sprayed WD40 overnight, taken off the snap ring and still no luck).
 
FYI.. mine was defective in multiple ways, and opening it up cast some doubt on the integrity of the design in the first place. Currently in the middle of asking for a refund because i do not want another. It seized after 1 mile of riding unpowered.

Pictures and videos of the gore here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=96895

The gist of the thread is.. don't buy one :evil:
 
anyone have working ytw 06 rear motor for sale? can also email me at dresaav@aol.com
 
there another motor similar to ytw 06. same weight. may be a better system. i dont know. i hear there issues with ytw 06. still interest in buy, ytw 06. anyone up. with regards to new motor, from alibaba ,only downside, u must buy 10 . i know im not up for that. for those that had no luck with the ytw 06, u may want to consider new motor. anyone? help with the purchase. i can use one. 9 buyers? 10 seperate orders might do the trick.
 
I was able to buy 1 unit through alibaba by sending a message.

Anyway it looks like they are willing to refund me on the motor they shipped that was constructed incorrectly..
I will update that thread i posted when i actually have something in my hands.
 
for whatever reason , ytw 06 is no longer sell. so u guys was right afterall. motor got issues. either dat, or is out of business. dat must explain y no response to me messages. next best thing is yet to find out
 
Oh really. When did you send them the messages?
I've been getting messages lately after threatening the paypal return. and they're claiming they'll send me a replacement motor in the coming days.
 
bonnie@xiongdamotor.com.cn

Shame that they've gone ghost on future sales.
 
I got my replacement motor in.

Looks like the difference between the fast and slow motor is just a different gear ratio and slight difference in winding. The fast motor is marked as 9T; the slow motor is marked as an 8T.

Construction quality on my new motor is better, but some screws still have minor stripping going on. Seems that they need to start using the right screwdriver over there. Not promising.

View attachment 2

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One thing missing is the stator side supports. Both of my motors have 6 bolts compressing them down, but motors shipped to other customers have this aluminum tube stiffening up the space between both stator ends.
I'm a bit concerned about this, because the motor has a 2 piece axle.

file.php
 
Actually shengyi has had similar motors for some years now. Their DWGQ1 is about the same size than the YTW-06, and their DWG12 more like the "new" bafang g311. Never tried one, but on the german forums, there are a bunch of huge shengyi fans, especially about the DWGX2, which comes with helical cut gears, and seems to be one of the best 3.2Kg motors out there. Funny how they also use lishui controllers...
 
I saw Shengyi motor at interbike and everything they had to offer was very unimpressive.
Looked at their page just now.. no dyno graphs.. no real motor details.. heavier weight for the power.. doesn't look good.

For me... no data, no buy.
 
More pics..

Xiongda sent me the tool to take off the motor case. It's 2 bolts threaded into a giant piece of metal.

IMG_20181215_142440.jpg

And here are some measurements on the old stator after drilling out the stripped screws.

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IMG_20181217_173829.jpg

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Hey, i'm about to get going on one of these using a KT controller. I've got the Regen working on the controller and wondering if anyone has figured out how to lock the clutch? I opened mine up and sealed it for oil filling and didn't properly check that myself. I'm going to be welding a Bafang G01 soon, so want to kill two birds with one stone if i can.
 
Dunno, but i'd stray away from this motor.
Bafang now has an equivalently sized motor with dual reduction... i'd pick that motor over this one, for sure.

I finally fired up the replacement motor Xiongda sent me, and holy crud does it sound like a hot mess.
At high RPM, it whirrs along like a bafang mid drive, but make nasty grinding sounds on the way up to top speed, given more than adequate peak power ( 15A )

When the little stator decelerates, it groans and makes 'i'm dying' noises, then when it freewheels, it sounds like a dragging brake.

I am going to pull mine apart and check for lack of lubrication, but things are not looking good..
 
hello to those currently following this thread. my road bike is mounted with this motor and after 500km it fulfills the requirements i set for this build ie assistance for 5-7$ grades up to 2km and 10% grades over ~500m. the unit is quiet and has been labelled 'mosquito' by my fellow cyclists. the sound is relaxing if i can use that term. obviously drag is present with wheel spin however once at speed the kinetic energy with the extra weight of motor and battery overrides whatever resistance may be present 'on the flat'. ive found no problem with the quality and service from the manufacture.
 
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