calfeetwenty
10 W
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2016
- Messages
- 67
I want to try to mount an IGH under the swing arm and in front of the tire. I won't know until everything is in front of me.
Vector Light Commuter Build
- Thread starter skeetab5780
- Start date
skeetab5780
1 MW
calfeetwenty said:
That will certainly be unique! post pics please
these frames seem to be based around rear hubs as most ebike frames have been for years. Now they offer the typhoon but it is really big and motorcycle-ish, they need to offer a light mid drive option
skeetab5780
1 MW
I just ordered this for $30 so hopefully it fits I think it will and it has a guard on it to help chain from falling off a bit. I'm hoping the 170mm crank arm has the same curve as my other side which just barely clears the rear swingarm tubing
I shall find out next week, this is 48t instead of the 42t I have now so it will also tighten the chain that has slack
I shall find out next week, this is 48t instead of the 42t I have now so it will also tighten the chain that has slack
skeetab5780
1 MW
So I had to put a slightly wider BB on the bike but I had it kicking around on another bike so it wasn't a big deal...
But long story short the 48t just BARELY fits!
There is about 2mm of space between the suspension bolt and the small useless gear on the crank. If it hit I would have cut it off since its steel riveted together
And its like 5mm from the front battery enclosure, this may scrape a bit if the chain still happens to fall off, we will see
Came with the other side crank arm which was cool even though I didn't need it, like to make them match shiny together
its not even close to hitting the swingarm on the back side
Notice how the derailur is more forward now the chain is tighter since I increased 6 teeth on the front hopefully this will also help the chain falling off
But long story short the 48t just BARELY fits!
There is about 2mm of space between the suspension bolt and the small useless gear on the crank. If it hit I would have cut it off since its steel riveted together
And its like 5mm from the front battery enclosure, this may scrape a bit if the chain still happens to fall off, we will see
Came with the other side crank arm which was cool even though I didn't need it, like to make them match shiny together
its not even close to hitting the swingarm on the back side
Notice how the derailur is more forward now the chain is tighter since I increased 6 teeth on the front hopefully this will also help the chain falling off
Dumsterdave
100 W
Looks like the chain is actually too short now. I would get a longer chain and then add a tensioner to keep the chain in place
skeetab5780
1 MW
you might be right we have had rain so I haven't had a chance to try it yet, I can add a few links
what is the downside to the chain being too short when I don't chance gears? just the derailur hanging low?
what is the downside to the chain being too short when I don't chance gears? just the derailur hanging low?
Voltron
1 MW
No downside at all if you don't shift to the bigger cogs in back... and the higher tension reduces the chain slap too. You just have to watch out loaning it to people who forget not to shift.
skeetab5780
1 MW
There is no cable or shifter 
they will have to try real hard!
thanks for comment
they will have to try real hard!thanks for comment
Voltron
1 MW
Ha... that being the case, I would even take a few links out!
Dumsterdave
100 W
Just take the derailuer off and put a single cog in the back and tighten the chain. Problem solved!
Dumsterdave
100 W
Also, what is that xt60 coming out of your frame? If it's the charging plug, then I think you should move it up to the location that vector of theirs. That's where I put it and it was very convenient and kept it dry and clean (my bike got stolen )
)
skeetab5780
1 MW
The only other spot you can come out is up front where the cables enter on each side of the headtube. I have been keeping an eye on it just incase. I don't ride in the rain much anymore (free company truck) makes me lazy
single cog would work but then you need a chain tensioner and regular bmx chain, and its cheaper to use a derailur you have kicking around with 7-9 speed MTB chain components off a donor bike
edit: sorry to hear your bike got stolen you need any parts?
single cog would work but then you need a chain tensioner and regular bmx chain, and its cheaper to use a derailur you have kicking around with 7-9 speed MTB chain components off a donor bike
edit: sorry to hear your bike got stolen you need any parts?
skeetab5780
1 MW
Had a little time to work on a new battery build. Looking to up the bike to 13s as cheap as possible so im using some old LIPO 2C 4250mah cells I have kicking around and a 20a bottle battery BMS
should get me where I want to go a little faster than the 10s6p 18650 battery we will see if I ever finish it.
This is how far I got today
Taking 3s packs apart to bare cells
Pic on the BMS
Cells have been sitting so I blew the dust off them
Mocking them up in 4p configs
Then soldering some 16awg CU across tabs
Simple simple
two down 11 to go
Got all 13 done that enough for today
should get me where I want to go a little faster than the 10s6p 18650 battery we will see if I ever finish it.
This is how far I got today
Taking 3s packs apart to bare cells
Pic on the BMS
Cells have been sitting so I blew the dust off them
Mocking them up in 4p configs
Then soldering some 16awg CU across tabs
Simple simple
two down 11 to go
Got all 13 done that enough for today
Dumsterdave
100 W
I would take a picture of my bike of I still had it, but this is the same as mine. Basically
I just drilled a small hole and inserted the female end and soldered the charge wires on the connected the male end to the charger. Easy operation.
On my phone and can't be bothered trying to upload photos now, so I created an album with how I set it up.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ak7AzpCY8KEG5TGR9
I just drilled a small hole and inserted the female end and soldered the charge wires on the connected the male end to the charger. Easy operation.
On my phone and can't be bothered trying to upload photos now, so I created an album with how I set it up.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ak7AzpCY8KEG5TGR9
skeetab5780 said:
skeetab5780
1 MW
Oh i actually do like that spot for a charge port. But i will certainly have to source a special type of port and drill holes. One of those wants more than needs type of things.
skeetab5780
1 MW
Little more progress on the battery build. Put the cells in a line and tested the voltages. Lightly compressed them with a clamp and threw a layer of 33+ electrical tape over the bare cells. Then a layer of gorilla tape over that to hold them in place. These cells are not perfect as you can see in the pics they are salvaged out of other packs so this will likely be their final resting place...
Here is the BMS I want to attempt to use, there is not much to it...hopefully it does something...
Here is the BMS I want to attempt to use, there is not much to it...hopefully it does something...
skeetab5780
1 MW
I completely agree with you, in my head I had plan to use some thin plastic board and cut squares for sides and a bottom. I will have to do that before it goes in the bike and gets banged up!
skeetab5780
1 MW
New crank worked great on the last ride last weekend. Took the bike to a lake in CT about 15 miles away, and barely had enough juice to get home. I cannot wait to put in the larger battery. Have not had time to work on it
the chain only had I issue the whole ride which is a big improvement, It didn't fall off but sort of went onto the plastic guard, was odd but easily fixed. Not without my handlebars slapping me in the face which is always fun
the chain only had I issue the whole ride which is a big improvement, It didn't fall off but sort of went onto the plastic guard, was odd but easily fixed. Not without my handlebars slapping me in the face which is always fun
Raketemensch
10 W
This has been a great thread, thanks for keeping it updated. I’m in NW CT, just about on the MA border, and the roads around here are ridiculously hilly, so regular cycling is kinda not realistic for me. It sounds like that may be the case for you as well.
I’m about to start my first rear-hub conversion project, while thinking about a more specialized frame further down the road, so threads like this are my favorite thing on the internet right now.
Did the new crankset fix your chain issues too?
I’m about to start my first rear-hub conversion project, while thinking about a more specialized frame further down the road, so threads like this are my favorite thing on the internet right now.
Did the new crankset fix your chain issues too?
ERP
1 mW
You need a shorter shock and also did I hear you say you're running a 48v controller and a 60v battery? That's not gonna work long. You will fry your controller but I guess it's a cheapy anyway so no biggie but you definitely need a shorter shock. I wouldn't go changing the frame cause you're messing with the geometry. Call vector and ask them what size shock it takes. Just my 2 cents.skeetab5780 said:
ERP
1 mW
Posted that last reply before I was done with all the other comments and posts. I see you have got pretty much straightened out and it's looking good. Good luck with your build.
skeetab5780
1 MW
Raketemensch said:
Nice someone from CT, let me know if you want to get out for a nice 20 miles rip one day
Yes that 48t crank fixed my chain falling off problems and lets me commute a few MPH faster. The only downside is that on really big hills I cannot do much to help the motor. It is not that big of an issue if you have a good battery, but on a large uphill I could overheat the motor.
skeetab5780
1 MW
ERP said:
Thanks for reply, yes the shock was me being cheap and not buying good stuff at first...And then I had to file the shock mount down a bit to get it to fit in the top swingarm position to make it perfect, now there is not pedal strike happening on corners and the geometry is as good as it will get for this frame.
The controller is a em3ev 9-fet 3077 63v caps with auto regen and 3-speed set at 20a max current
I have a 10s battery in now, but im working on a 13s with 20a bms to get higher top speeds on flats
skeetab5780
1 MW
Little progress on the battery, about to start wiring pack but just wanted to protect the cells before I throw them into the frame and forget about them!
Sacrificed a display sign I had kicking around that is made of some nice sturdy yet flexible board. tried to cut it with a razor knife but I could not, had to use tin snips
quick and easy, onto the next step
taped them in place
tape is my friend
Sacrificed a display sign I had kicking around that is made of some nice sturdy yet flexible board. tried to cut it with a razor knife but I could not, had to use tin snips
quick and easy, onto the next step
taped them in place
tape is my friend
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