QS 205 experts needed

Assuming this is your style of throttle... https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-99V-Sc...v+throttle&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Five Wire Connections:

Yellow is for power positive <--- this goes to a 2a fused connection to main battery pack, this also doubles as your input for SOC or State of Charge for the 0-99v display
Blue is for for controller power positive or electric switch, or key lock <--- this goes to the pink wire (#7) on the controller, you should only see voltage on this wire when the key is turned.

Three throttle wires:
Red is for throttle positive + 5v <--- this goes to the purple/5v wire (#4)
Green is for twist throttle signal wire <--- this goes to the green throttle wire (#3)
Black is for throttle negative <--- this goes to the black signal return wire (#20)

If you just want to power the unit on, you only need to connect the main black to ground, the main red (only after using the supplied green resistor for at least 10 seconds) to the battery positive then connect the pink wire to power, the unit should give some action on the LED at that point. Just those 3 wires should power it up.

2WheelsMovesTheSoul said:

Assuming this is your style of throttle... https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-99V-Sc...v+throttle&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Five Wire Connections:

Yellow is for power positive <--- this goes to a 2a fused connection to main battery pack, this also doubles as your input for SOC or State of Charge for the 0-99v display
Blue is for for controller power positive or electric switch, or key lock <--- this goes to the pink wire (#7) on the controller, you should only see voltage on this wire when the key is turned.

Three throttle wires:
Red is for throttle positive + 5v <--- this goes to the purple/5v wire (#4)
Green is for twist throttle signal wire <--- this goes to the green throttle wire (#3)
Black is for throttle negative <--- this goes to the black signal return wire (#20)

If you just want to power the unit on, you only need to connect the main black to ground, the main red (only after using the supplied green resistor for at least 10 seconds) to the battery positive then connect the pink wire to power, the unit should give some action on the LED at that point. Just those 3 wires should power it up.

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First of all, I am greatly appreciative of your help. The link you sent is the throttle I have.
Should I leave the resistor in the wiring all the time or just the first time I start up the controller?

No problem... According to the schematic the resistor should/could be wired up all the time. Once the controller is on and pulling power, the electricity will always follow the path of least resistance and the bulk of your juice will bypass the resistor. It is meant to slowly add voltage to the capacitors inside the controller instead of just instantly filling the caps and creating sparks or flash welding your connectors. This is just something that will prolong the life of the caps/controller.

With that being said, I personally don't use it this way.

I also have a 200a shunt, use a 200a 72v solenoid and a 12v 400a battery cutoff switch like they use in boats.

When I want to power up the bike, I use a small momentary push button switch connected to the green resistor to trickle voltage into the controller for about 7-10 seconds, then I put in the battery cutoff key, turn it to ON. This completes the circuit for the solenoid which then connects the battery to the controller.

2WheelsMovesTheSoul said:

No problem... According to the schematic the resistor should/could be wired up all the time. Once the controller is on and pulling power, the electricity will always follow the path of least resistance and the bulk of your juice will bypass the resistor. It is meant to slowly add voltage to the capacitors inside the controller instead of just instantly filling the caps and creating sparks or flash welding your connectors. This is just something that will prolong the life of the caps/controller.

With that being said, I personally don't use it this way.

I also have a 200a shunt, use a 200a 72v solenoid and a 12v 400a battery cutoff switch like they use in boats.

When I want to power up the bike, I use a small momentary push button switch connected to the green resistor to trickle voltage into the controller for about 7-10 seconds, then I put in the battery cutoff key, turn it to ON. This completes the circuit for the solenoid which then connects the battery to the controller.

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Ok. I will give it a try. Can you cover the resistor in tape or a length of Shrink wrap to protect it? I think I would just keep it hooked up. Would you mind if I contacted you with other questions? You certainly know your stuff. This is my second build and I am feeling very humbled after what was a fairly simple first build. But I think the end product will be worth the time and effort. Greatly appreciated!!

changeissimple said:

Would you mind if I contacted you with other questions? You certainly know your stuff. This is my second build and I am feeling very humbled after what was a fairly simple first build. But I think the end product will be worth the time and effort. Greatly appreciated!!

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Anytime good Sir. Just a bit of FYI: The Kelly controller is meant for more than just a standard e-bike. I've had some off the shelf e-bikes and NOTHING compares. For me, this is an electric motorcycle disguised as a pedal bike.

I just happen to have the very same combo of Kelly KLS-7230S and QS-205. Mine rips all the way up to 60mph on a full charge.

It's fuggin hoot that's for sure. My favorite part of riding this is the look on the face of a regular Joe when I whack the throttle wide open and beat their (insert generic fast car here) across the intersection. Even beat a few Hardly's off the line. Those guys are the most chapped by e-powa!

I'd prefer to use marine grade heat shrink to wrap the resistor. That will keep it protected from the elements as well as short circuits.

2WheelsMovesTheSoul said:

changeissimple said:

Would you mind if I contacted you with other questions? You certainly know your stuff. This is my second build and I am feeling very humbled after what was a fairly simple first build. But I think the end product will be worth the time and effort. Greatly appreciated!!

Click to expand...

Anytime good Sir. Just a bit of FYI: The Kelly controller is meant for more than just a standard e-bike. I've had some off the shelf e-bikes and NOTHING compares. For me, this is an electric motorcycle disguised as a pedal bike.

I just happen to have the very same combo of Kelly KLS-7230S and QS-205. Mine rips all the way up to 60mph on a full charge.

It's fuggin hoot that's for sure. My favorite part of riding this is the look on the face of a regular Joe when I whack the throttle wide open and beat their (insert generic fast car here) across the intersection. Even beat a few Hardly's off the line. Those guys are the most chapped by e-powa!

I'd prefer to use marine grade heat shrink to wrap the resistor. That will keep it protected from the elements as well as short circuits.

Click to expand...

Alright I have a bit of success now. Controller is turning on (light is green) and I am getting that 100watt pulse of power from the motor. BUT i can't connect to the Bluetooth dongle and auto identify the system. I have an android phone and I am trying to connect to the blue tooth dongle (blinking red light on dongle) but it says "Connection Failed!" when I hit get into the app. I can swipe over to the fields for the controller but i can't enter anything. Need figure out the Auto Identification and set the parameters. Any other possible tricks to connecting to the bluetooth?? This link is a video of my test. https://photos.app.goo.gl/bjMr8VcZ4qNsa4AY7

Glad to see that GREEN LED and motor spinning some 20 posts later! Let's see if we can get you completely sorted out now.

Ummm... that Android is running 4.0 or newer correct? I believe the Ice Cream Sandwich is the lowest version that works with the App. I too was an exclusive IOS user until this Kelly/205 project came along and had to buy a cheap Android phone just for it.

I have had the same issue with connecting sometimes, it can be a bit frustrating. I can be 15' away and it will connect, other times I have to put the phone within 2' and try a few times but eventually mine will connect. Also, my shit phone doesn't allow me to view 100% of the App but I can navigate the menu's enough to get everything running, you just need that manual next to you to make sure you inputs are within the acceptable value range.

Another suggestion would be to contact Fany @ Kelly directly (thru the website) and maybe get the latest version. Sometimes the webpage is a month or 2 behind the actual production line. you might want to try powering up the controller, then plug in the dongle, then try to connect.

FYI: the second screen (AC Monitor) you swiped to is the diagnostic screen, you wont be able to make adjustments there. It is used to see Error Status and below that, visual confirmation of the connections like throttle, brakes, regen, 3speed, ect... like when you twist the throttle, you will see the analog input value change from 0 to XXX or sometimes just an on/off showing a 0 or 1 for things like brakes, speed and direction selectors, ect. You will need to record and use these variable parameters to fine tune the inputs on the other screen.

What are you guys running for batteries with you big motors? 18650 based at 72v? LiPo? Did you build your battery or buy commercial...and if commercial, where did you buy it?

Just getting started...Thanks.

18650's for the win IMHO.

so choices there are
High capacity 3400-3500mAh cells LGMJ1 . / Panasonic GA / samsung 35E Sony VC7- although they are now quoting ~10A continuous discharge i have found this to be a stretch of the truth which is at 6-7A over the course of a discharge cycle the temp goes up by 20-25degC . (i do have a discharge which equates to a 15 deg temp rise)

Capacity / discharge cells such as the 30Q, VTC6, typically good for 15A but again derate if you want them to live call it 10A

Then high discharge Samsung 25R / 25S, LG HE4 typically good for 20-25A.

If you have the space and need the range a big enough pack will support the QS205 upto about 8kw
ie 20-22S at 12-14P

If you dont then there are range compromises once you get into high discharge cells the capacity drops from 3500mAh to 3000mAh

That said if you flog the 3500mAh cells at their max rated 10A you will get less out of them as you would a 3000mAh cell that is designed for higher discharge as you dont waste a heap of the energy warming up the battery itself.

Not hard to build your own ANT BMS for the win there you;'ll need 150A version at least. I solder and use tinned copper bus bars from solar panels as quicker and easier than spot welding Nickel and they carry >2x the current for the same dims.
and you likely already have a 60-80W soldering iron handy

It depends on what you want. I use 20s lipo, 20Ah.
Peaks about 22kw from the controller according to the display.
Set for about 300A, it may sag a bit. But a pack of 18650:s will probably sag more.

j bjork...which LiPo packs do you use? I am considering trying 72v with my BBSHD and I can get there for less money with LiPo than I can with 18650...IMO.

Thanks guys...IMO you both have good points and info .

For an 18650 based battery, I like the 25R cells because I can run fewer "p" and get the same power so lighter than a higher "p" pack.

From EM3ev...the newer HG2 cells are rated at the same 20A as the 25R and have more capacity 3 Ah vs 2.5 Ah for the 25R but the HG2 doesn't seem to be holding up for quite as many charge cycles.

I have 10Ah of high c-rate turnigy nano-tech and 10Ah of turnigy multistars. It would probably be better to use only one sort, and something with rather high c-rate (if you are going for high power)
You still haven't said anything about what you will be using the motor for, so it is not very easy for anyone to make suggestions.

My tentative plan...and I haven't even ordered the motor yet so it is very tentative, is to put a bike together to run with the East Coast Timing Association in Blytheville, AR.

The more I look into it the more complicated it gets to meet all of the rules and requirements so it feels like one step forward and two steps back .

I did contact QS directly and they recommended the 205 V3 motor based on my specific requirements.

Thanks for the info on LiPos.

changeissimple...did you ever get your QS205 going?

If yes, how do you like it and how does it compare as far as acceleration from 0-20 mph when compared to the MAC you were running?

What turn MAC did you have, what diameter wheel, and how many amps (battery and phase) were you feeding it?

Any words of wisdom you could pass along would be appreciated since I might do the same thing....one day .

Thanks

j bjork said:

I have 10Ah of high c-rate turnigy nano-tech and 10Ah of turnigy multistars. It would probably be better to use only one sort, and something with rather high c-rate (if you are going for high power)
You still haven't said anything about what you will be using the motor for, so it is not very easy for anyone to make suggestions.

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The nanotech are batteries for a QS205h50. You’d overheat the multistar only coming close to this motor power capability.