Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

a classic bike shop custom make these 240 sprockets T6 7075 aluminium 28th up to 65th.
They also machine the patern/holes.
https://www.jvmewparts.nl/c-4077056/420/

54/ 55th in combi 18s 19s battery and a sine wave controller 80Amps peak is something i wil like to do....
first try to kill the panasonic pf 16s 11p battery :mrgreen:

Also like to try an other brand chain,maby they are les noisy
 
Joachim said:
a classic bike shop custom make these 240 sprockets T6 7075 aluminium 28th up to 65th.
They also machine the patern/holes.
https://www.jvmewparts.nl/c-4077056/420/

54/ 55th in combi 18s 19s battery and a sine wave controller 80Amps peak is something i wil like to do....
first try to kill the panasonic pf 16s 11p battery :mrgreen:

Also like to try an other brand chain,maby they are les noisy
Click to expand...

I am running a Renthal 420 Pitch MX chain, it doesn't stretch at all. Its not any quieter than the stock chain.
 
motomoto said:
Because of Rix I did 10 each of a 55 tooth
Click to expand...
please let me know you experience with the 55th.

The best thing on the sur-ron is the battery lcd % indicator :D the cells never drain down to real low voltage:lcd shows 21% total
battery voltage 56V/3.5V cell.i am sure these battery have a long life when never discharge lower like 15%.
I think they have designed the lcd state of charge indicator by watch to the point where the cell voltage sags under load....3.3V for the PF cells i think.

something i like to see for the sur-ron, decent allu/steel chain cover on the back and front sprockets,a broken chain can hit you in the back/legs.
 
Let me know when someone makes a 65 or even 70t sprocket. Want to get my splatter on!
 
stonezone said:
Let me know when someone makes a 65 or even 70t sprocket. Want to get my splatter on!
Click to expand...

Moto Moto is cutting some 64T, Don't know how many he will have though. Don't know what your end goal is, but a sprocket that big will not allow your machine to draw max amps, you will have a lot of hill climbing range though. It will wheelie off the line like crazy too. :mrgreen:
 
For a more silent drive train, would it not be better to change the stock sprocket to say 52 and increase the primary small sprocket with 4 more teeth? If you go even bigger like 58 rear and +10 in front we should gain even more silence(but space may be a problem). What do you guys think?
 
Allex said:
For a more silent drive train, would it not be better to change the stock sprocket to say 52 and increase the primary small sprocket with 4 more teeth? If you go even bigger like 58 rear and +10 in front we should gain even more silence(but space may be a problem). What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

One could go to a 52T sprocket on the rear and a 13T (4:1 ratio)sprocket up front and have the exact gear ratio of a 48T to 12T witch is also 4:1 ratio. I don't know if it would be any more quieter though, but performance would be real close to identical. Going to a 58T on the rear and up 10T on front to a 22T sprocket would be a bad idea, these machines are powerful, but based on my experience, a secondary drive ratio of about 4.5 or 4.6 to 1 is optimal for a stock machine. With the 58T and 22T combo, that would reduce the secondary drive ratio to 2.6:1, way to tall of gearing and loss of mechanical leverage for our machines. Or even a 52T and a 16T combo would come out to a 3.25:1 ratio on the secondary which is still much taller than the stock 4:1 ratio. Running that maybe quieter though as the motor would not be able to spin as many RPMs as can the stock ratio due to loss of mechanical advantage.

///Edit/// Primary change to secondary, Freudian slip
 
a strong belt is the only way to make the sur ron silent,for offroad you can make the belt drive train close in a belt case?
 
Joachim said:
a strong belt is the only way to make the sur ron silent,for offroad you can make the belt drive train close in a belt case?
Click to expand...

Already has a belt from motor to sprocket.
belt.jpg
 
Rix said:
One could go to a 52T sprocket on the rear and a 13T (4:1 ratio)sprocket up front and have the exact gear ratio of a 48T to 12T witch is also 4:1 ratio. I don't know if it would be any more quieter though, but performance would be real close to identical.
Click to expand...
Thats how it is. The larger the small drive sprockets the lower the noise will be (and wear).
 
Uran93 said:
lightbeer81 said:
Had my Sur-Ron bike for a few weeks now and done about 250km on it. Have a tear and in the rear brake hose and need to replace it. Visited a local MTB bike shop here focused mainly on Shimano and showed them the brake, but they say they didn't know what parts would fit etc. (probably to much to do this season and not super interested in more work). Next time I like to be more specific in what I need. So if anyone here could provide me with some more precise instructions that would be great.
Read in this thread that someone recommended MT5 Magura for replacement but I think the original brake was doing the job fine so far and would prefer just new hose (and oil I guess).

Overall I really like the bike and it runs really well both on and off road. Perfect for a newbie like myself which mainly has 80cc experience. What maintenance do you guys recommend and how often?
Click to expand...

You can use Shimano BH90 hose kit. Easy to find on Amazon. But I personally replaced front brakes and will replace rear, cause both front and rear are leaking. Original brakes are very low quality copy from Shimano XT 9000 I guess. They have 4 piston calipers, but they (pistons) are leaking.
If you replace them you need to keep original levers, cause they have engine breaker.

I replaced my front brakes to Shimano Zee, but I keep original lever, it’s not bad quality and you need it to have engine breaker.

You can find a lot of YouTube videos how to replace and tune and pump your brakes, easy to do it and learn something new for you.

Shimano Zee fit perfectly and it is amazing 4 carbon piston set, great calibration and sensitivity, you can read some reviews.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed tips. I have ordered a new Shimano Zee brake for the rear and will replace the front as well if the feel is a lot better! Will get back with results...
 
lightbeer81 said:
Uran93 said:
lightbeer81 said:
Had my Sur-Ron bike for a few weeks now and done about 250km on it. Have a tear and in the rear brake hose and need to replace it. Visited a local MTB bike shop here focused mainly on Shimano and showed them the brake, but they say they didn't know what parts would fit etc. (probably to much to do this season and not super interested in more work). Next time I like to be more specific in what I need. So if anyone here could provide me with some more precise instructions that would be great.
Read in this thread that someone recommended MT5 Magura for replacement but I think the original brake was doing the job fine so far and would prefer just new hose (and oil I guess).

Overall I really like the bike and it runs really well both on and off road. Perfect for a newbie like myself which mainly has 80cc experience. What maintenance do you guys recommend and how often?
Click to expand...

You can use Shimano BH90 hose kit. Easy to find on Amazon. But I personally replaced front brakes and will replace rear, cause both front and rear are leaking. Original brakes are very low quality copy from Shimano XT 9000 I guess. They have 4 piston calipers, but they (pistons) are leaking.
If you replace them you need to keep original levers, cause they have engine breaker.

I replaced my front brakes to Shimano Zee, but I keep original lever, it’s not bad quality and you need it to have engine breaker.

You can find a lot of YouTube videos how to replace and tune and pump your brakes, easy to do it and learn something new for you.

Shimano Zee fit perfectly and it is amazing 4 carbon piston set, great calibration and sensitivity, you can read some reviews.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed tips. I have ordered a new Shimano Zee brake for the rear and will replace the front as well if the feel is a lot better! Will get back with results...
Click to expand...

Don't forget - Zee has a different type of hose joints, compare to original Sur-ron brakes. It's called "banjo" connection. So, it is better/cheaper to buy "caliper + hose", cause original Sur-Ron joint won't work for Zee caliper.

Just in case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YH8M9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Bought a pair of the Sur Ron's through Luna. Overall, awesomely fun machines. However, I'm at about 100 miles on each and have a couple of concerns.

One bike had a controller fail, which was then replaced by Luna under warranty (I'm in SoCal, fortunately close enough to drop by the shop locally). There was no indication as to the cause - it simply failed during normal use, resulting in a dead bike on a hot, dry trail. No other components were affected from what I can tell. I guess this is only one of a couple failures they've seen thus far, so maybe I was just one of the lucky ones. Hopefully the new "x" controller will resolve any other issues with this version.

The other issue I've been having is with the poor quality pedal kits (Luna's, not Sur Ron's). Not only are the cranks very iffy - the finish is already flaking and corroding - but the spindle bearings are extremely poor and both bikes have a TON of chain "wander" as it winds around the pedal sprocket - 1-2mm each direction on the worst one. This is causing a lot of extra chain noise, and both the sprocket and chain are already showing appreciable wear as a result.

Wanted to raise these issues here to see if anyone else has had similar experiences. I'm going to touch base with Luna directly to see if the pedal kit issues have become common (I assume they are).
 
Uran93 said:
lightbeer81 said:
Uran93 said:
lightbeer81 said:
Had my Sur-Ron bike for a few weeks now and done about 250km on it. Have a tear and in the rear brake hose and need to replace it. Visited a local MTB bike shop here focused mainly on Shimano and showed them the brake, but they say they didn't know what parts would fit etc. (probably to much to do this season and not super interested in more work). Next time I like to be more specific in what I need. So if anyone here could provide me with some more precise instructions that would be great.
Read in this thread that someone recommended MT5 Magura for replacement but I think the original brake was doing the job fine so far and would prefer just new hose (and oil I guess).

Overall I really like the bike and it runs really well both on and off road. Perfect for a newbie like myself which mainly has 80cc experience. What maintenance do you guys recommend and how often?
Click to expand...

You can use Shimano BH90 hose kit. Easy to find on Amazon. But I personally replaced front brakes and will replace rear, cause both front and rear are leaking. Original brakes are very low quality copy from Shimano XT 9000 I guess. They have 4 piston calipers, but they (pistons) are leaking.
If you replace them you need to keep original levers, cause they have engine breaker.

I replaced my front brakes to Shimano Zee, but I keep original lever, it’s not bad quality and you need it to have engine breaker.

You can find a lot of YouTube videos how to replace and tune and pump your brakes, easy to do it and learn something new for you.

Shimano Zee fit perfectly and it is amazing 4 carbon piston set, great calibration and sensitivity, you can read some reviews.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed tips. I have ordered a new Shimano Zee brake for the rear and will replace the front as well if the feel is a lot better! Will get back with results...
Click to expand...

Don't forget - Zee has a different type of hose joints, compare to original Sur-ron brakes. It's called "banjo" connection. So, it is better/cheaper to buy "caliper + hose", cause original Sur-Ron joint won't work for Zee caliper.

Just in case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YH8M9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

I ordered a kit with hose, caliper and lever. It was cheaper then just ordering caliper + hose. But the hose part of the kit should be the same as the link you provided I guess. This is what I ordered:
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/shimano-zee-m640-rear-kit/135997232/p
Is it ok? Thanks again.
 
socalsurron said:
Bought a pair of the Sur Ron's through Luna. Overall, awesomely fun machines. However, I'm at about 100 miles on each and have a couple of concerns.

One bike had a controller fail, which was then replaced by Luna under warranty (I'm in SoCal, fortunately close enough to drop by the shop locally). There was no indication as to the cause - it simply failed during normal use, resulting in a dead bike on a hot, dry trail. No other components were affected from what I can tell. I guess this is only one of a couple failures they've seen thus far, so maybe I was just one of the lucky ones. Hopefully the new "x" controller will resolve any other issues with this version.

The other issue I've been having is with the poor quality pedal kits (Luna's, not Sur Ron's). Not only are the cranks very iffy - the finish is already flaking and corroding - but the spindle bearings are extremely poor and both bikes have a TON of chain "wander" as it winds around the pedal sprocket - 1-2mm each direction on the worst one. This is causing a lot of extra chain noise, and both the sprocket and chain are already showing appreciable wear as a result.
Click to expand...

That's the first controller failure I've heard of. It would be interesting to know what exactly failed.

The pedal kit is crap and even if it was well made, it would still be crap due to the way it engages the chain. In CA you can apparently register it as a moped and not need pedals to be street legal. The pedals might be more useful if they drove the jack shaft somehow but this would require some kind of freewheel clutch on the jack shaft and another sprocket there. Not easy.
 
The whole pedal project was one huge fail in my eyes. They even managed to remove some of the original torque while they where at it. Terrible. Like you say a jackshaft + freewheel is the way to go for those who need pedals. Remember the motoped? They had prototype of an electric edition, with a clever jackshaft solution. Maybe look there for inspiration and try to incorporate their thoughts to the Sur Ron? Or, get a license plate and loose the pedal.

Any new info in the street legal EU moped 45 km/h version? Is there a date for release?
 
Great
https://www.bike-eu.com/sales-trends/nieuws/2018/08/united-states-imposes-25-percent-tariff-on-e-bikes-imported-from-china-10134321
 
Yeah a month ago or so EU too put taxes on china e-bikes. Sucks.

Gotta hate on them politicians. They show incredible skills when it comes to fcuk the common guy, but if some new thoughts are required to solve serious problems or find funds to new infrastructure their mental capacity is on par with small children.

Maybe we should propose everyone to spread some hate on their congressman? Write them a letter and let them know they are major fcuk ups and people are watching and keeping score. Call them up during office hours and let them have it. Post on their face or find their email and tell them to clean up their act. Then work you way upwards til you reach the man on the top, and while you're at it give that man a shaver and tell him to take care of himself, the pride and joy that once was a set of hair is ridiculous, hm great I managed to close on a personal attack, just like the man himself.
 
motomoto said:
I am working on a pedal kit. It runs a generator that charges the battery.
Click to expand...

That sounds a bit more practical but not sure if it would meet the legal requirements everywhere. Wording varies a lot on these regulations. For USA federal definition, it says "fully operable pedals". In some it just says the motor can't run unless you are pedaling. In this case, the pedals only have to interface to the controller and not really supply any power.

It is unlikely you could make it run by pedal power alone, but this seems to be unnecessary in most cases.

A pedal generator would be much more flexible in the mounting and not screw up the gearing or chain line.
 
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