new eZip motor

Status
Not open for further replies.
Don't really matter anyway.

Another big fight at my house. Don't have time to go into detail as I am on library computer. I am homeless and at the City Mission. Can't go back to my house due to violence. I did not hit anyone just smashed up the house.

I really would like to get a gun and go back and shoot someone but will seek mental health counseling instead I guess. I just hope it works.

I doubt I will get any of those battery parts in storage anyway so does it really matter if I charge the battery packs with one charger or two.

Answer.

I guess not as when I return they will probably be gone. Thanks.

LC out.
 
Man what is going on in your life?

Sounds like you need a change of scenery. What does it mean to you and your relationships to be homeless? where's your old lady, and can she still see you?

Hope things get sorted.
 
You've been amazing.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2018-08-11 at 2.51.11 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2018-08-11 at 2.51.11 PM.png
    50.9 KB · Views: 2,404
someone stole my laptop.

Guess it is time to trade one of my dual suspension bikes for a 32

Talked to some people yesterday morning in Albany at 8 AM drinking a beer behind a church. Just got to get back down there.

Went to my friends house downtown Schenectady and when I called my ol lady the guy downstairs answered and said Doug my room-mate I had the beef with Friday sold all my stuff on craig's list and locked my ol lady in the house. Guy downstairs had my phone and ol lady was downstairs and police came.

Guy downstairs story fell thru. The truth was the place was locked up and nobody was answering the door cause my laptop came up missing the night before.

People from downstairs were up here with their friend Nicole. She is notorious for stealing. Probably 100 times for shoplifting and even robbed her friends downstairs like a dozen times but they still hang out with her. She does heroin, crack and lord knows what else.

Exactly why I did not want to come back here. I was ready to come up here and murder Doug in front of his entire family with a pipe last night until my friend downtown said "something does not sound right" I called back and got Doug's mom on the phone and 1/2 rent was paid three days ago but the ol ladies room was ransacked for money. Doug would not have been looking for money the landlord has.

Then I talked to the ol lady and heard Nicole was up here the night the laptop was stolen. I am back in the hood. Thanks.

LC out.
 
Who needs Netflix? I got all the drama I can take right here on the thread.

If you're homeless, can always get a cheap 2nd hand phone or locked to network phone and rely on free wifi for data. (Locked phones only care about the network for mobile data, not WiFi data)

My dad got a locked phone for $20. I bought an unlock code for $2 on ebay. Not all that legit, but not something it would really seem bothers you that much.

Can stay in touch with a device which you have on yourself all the time, so its very hard to steal unless someone is bigger and uglier than you.
 
Untitled.png

That is what my arm looked like Friday.

I did some push ups in the doctors office. :lol:

X rays showed a small bone fracture.


The girl I thought stole the laptop probably did not as the cops beat her up two years ago and she sued and she got over 400,000 bucks I heard. Not sure if it is true but was told. I really don't know where my laptop went. Not happy about that. I still might catch a body if I find out who took it.

I ran the Currie downtown again with the SONA packs. They seem to be as good as the new Samsung packs. I still have to finish the two LG packs. I will be working on then soon.

I saw the landlord and damage was minimum. New door hinges , some sheet rock and a few L brackets for the table leg. I paid the rent and am putting the van on the road next month. I will probably finish the new LG packs in a few days. Thanks

LC out.
 
Writing about how a woman would do things, "farm animals wouldn't do" is creepy. Seriously creepy. Way too much information. I believe everyone can change and improb=ve their lot, but the misogyny in your posts indicates you're doomed to a miserable life. Get help. Not on building batteries, help in becoming human. But if you take advice on growing up like you accept advice on batteries...well you'll likely do another term in prison. Get help. We all need it from one source or another. Pack it up. Find a small city and start over. Truth, respect, and hard work. Any white guy can succeed.
 
currie motor.png


As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Is LC a genius ???????? In loudspeakers efficiency trumps wattage and for an amplifier Dynamic headroom trumps wattage. If it is not rated in RMS measured at 1 watt 1 meter it is a bogus rating.

One down and one to go.

there is another scooter which is bigger and might have a larger motor. I got to dig it out tomorrow.

Basically I was told by the landlord that everyone in the apartment (six other persons) were getting a 72 hour eviction notice if I were to leave again. The landlord stuck up for yours truly. I plan on buying a TV from Wall-Mart next month for $500. Hysense 65 inch 4K - HDR (High dynamic range) scenes in dark have much better texture. It is 70% off and was told by the store clerk that they will have them next month in September.

I plan on moving the first of October as my roomates will be rolling out also as Dougs girl scored a job for $15 an hour at a store in Albany.

I am putting stuff in storage. I do not like those scooters so am removing the motors for future builds. The dual motor cargo bike has a large Unite motor on the front which is 36 volts and 800 watts but at 24 volts and 533 watts. Gearing is

Untitled10.png



Replace with



View attachment 2


Basically that will give me a 36 volt 800 watt motor to work with for another build and if the other scooter has a larger 36 volt motor I may have another dual motor project but if not I still have the 20" 800 watt hub motor on the back of that 20" bike in storage. I am thinking about putting the 800 watt hub motor on the front and the 800 watt Unite motor on the back for 1,600 watts.

I will need to run the 20" hub motor by itself to see what the top speed is then order a motor sprocket for the 800 watt Unite motor to match the top speed of the hub motor. 1,600 watts total with both motors I should be able to climb about any hill. Thanks.

8:18 AM

PS. I was discussing audio with Doug. He has a decent Pioneer system. 390W four channel equal output system , preamp and amp separate. I am showing him how to get four times the bass output with two horn loaded band-pass subwoofers which I would love to build sometime in the future.

I am familiar with Decware's The wicked one and bill Fitzgerald's the auto tuba but both designs require woodworking skills far beyond my capabilities. Studying those two designs and also the death box 2 where the speaker port is adjustable and can be moved up or down depending on the VAS and QTS and FS of the driver.

My design shall do the same but instead of a port it is a horn I will be tuning to get the maximum SPL levels at around 30 HZ or where the cutoff is for human hearing. There will be a compromise if I use 18" drivers as lower than 20 HZ I believe is felt more and not heard so moving the insert which will determine the horn effect shall be an interesting experiment. Also hopefully it will be a much simpler design to build.

This can be done with thin flexible wood paneling for the curve and 3/4" plywood for the other three dimensions with insulation inside and carpet stapled on the outside of the insert and also carpet lining the inside of the box. It will need to be a very tight fit to be successful but making the insert a little small can be made a little larger with another layer of carpet around it. :D

When the perfect bass level at the desired frequency is obtained at the center of the room then Screws can hold it in place. Not much power should be needed to find the sweet spot with a frequency meter. 10W / 10 feet should work. LC is a genius. :lol: :lol: :lol:

The bottom picture shows the sub-woofer design and the left shows optimum placement in a room approx. 30 feet wide and 24 feet long. That is not the final blueprint just a rough guess. I may have to experiment with other positions for the subs depending on where the maximum impact is or at what distance the subs will sound the loudest.

The larger the sub the farther. Normally an 18" sub will need 15 to 18 feet I believe but think when using two drivers in an Isobaric push pull configuration the VAS = 1/2 they will sound loudest at 1/2 distance but need to check that. It has been awhile since I studied it.

I believe my speaker placement diagram to be similar to an 8.1 Surround design. Since the 65" TV will be in the front center the subs should not be anywhere near it as the magnetic fields will damage a TV. Only a small shielded center speaker over the TV or the existing speakers in the TV could be used for the center channel.

If DA or anyone here has knowledge which could help please let me know. Basically I have the original woofer tester but software is on floppy disks so would entertain more modern software to calculate Vb1 and Vb2. I believe Vb1 being the sealed side of the enclosure and Vb2 the ported side which is adjustable for the horn effect.

I would be willing to team up with someone as brilliant as DA to create and continue on from the design to the production stage and possibly do what I wanted to do back in 1995 which is a career in the home and car audio field. Please let me know. maybe we can patent something so shoot me a PM if interested. Two genius's are better than one.

Thanks.




LC out.
 

Attachments

  • Untitled.png
    Untitled.png
    369.6 KB · Views: 2,254
View attachment 3plug.pngIMG_3837.JPGIMG_3839.JPGYea I guess I did fail at hooking up the BMS for a 10S lithium pack.

The BMSs did not have wiring diagram but also it did not have 11 wires like they were supposed to have. I got robbed again on e bay. I would love to punch someone in the face.

Another e bay rip off on a BMS.. I am kind of sick and tired of people putting me down and insulting me and stating I am a failure here when 90% of my failures are due to crappy vendors selling their garbage.

I numbered a PROPER 10S BMS and it clearly shows 11 wires. I got a BMS with 10 wires. I did not want a BMS for a 9S pack. I successfully built a 10S pack but now have to go back to balance charging with a 6S LiPo charger to run these. These 10S BMS I would love to shove up someone who sold them to me after knocking them out.

If I am wrong somehow please let me know as I am really p i s s e d O f f right now and if you look at these pictures can see why.

Basically I am wondering if anyone can solve this wiring issue. I get enough criticism. If I am to be criticized then I need someone to show me how they know more than me. I will gladly admit that as far as a BMS is concerned someone is smarter than me if they can explain the missing wire and tell me how to make this work. If not then I guess I am smarter than everyone here on Endless sphere.


Thanks.

LC out.
 
Proper diagram is on ebay and, yes, you only use 10 wires.
Told you how to find it.
Did not post a direct link ... trying to encourage you towards not being totally helpless-hapless.
Tired of spoon feeding you and you spitting back at me.
 
Untitled11.pngIMG_3841.JPGIMG_3843.JPG



OK awesome. Ok you are smarter than me. I am man enough to admit it but I am still smart. You have more experience in a wider range of electronics. I only excel in the audio field especially loudspeaker design and technology. That was my main focus. If we work together someday there still could be a future career in home and car audio I believe.

My ideas + your higher education / superior math skills could take it a long way.
I could use help designing the crossovers for the mid-woofer1 - 80 hz to 250 hz (12" full range PA - 101 db 1W/1M ) and then the mid-woofer2 - (8" full range PA - 96 db 1W /1M ) range 250 hz to 500 hz and a 6" mid-range driver 500 to 2,000 HZ - 94 db 1W/1M and for high end a super - power horn > 110 DB at 1W/1M - 2k - 20k. The crossover must balance out the drivers so they work with the band pass sub. The sub will also require a 4th or 6th order circuit which I will need to re-study as I forgot some of that.


I did not see the diagram because I did not look hard enough. I had to look below for a link to the same item. It was not with the pictures posted for the item I bought but was on an item just like it.

Unfortunately I was playing around with the multi-meter trying to get a voltage reading from something including the terminals behind the plug and shorted out something as the insulation on the green wire is compromised but am comparing the voltages on the other module I just opened to the one I shorted last night.

It seems that they are the same. I have not hooked the power wire on the left side for negative yet so my voltage readings are only 34+ volts.

I will need to at least wrap some tape around the green wire. I will also need to look at some you tube videos on soldering the power wires to this board. Thanks again.

LC out.

PS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RP9A3Aj0fg

It looks like I will need to solder one wire with red tape wrapped around it to a male bullet for B +

For ch negative a wire to a female bullet should work with green tape wrapped around it.

For P negative a wire to a female bullet with black tape wrapped around it.

B minus is just a black wire going to the pack.

All my controllers and my 36V chargers are wired with female positives for male bullets from battery and male negatives for female bullets from battery.

I did that so when I get drunk I do not have to deal with reverse polarity.
 
latecurtis said:
OK awesome. Ok you are smarter than me. I am man enough to admit it but I am still smart.

It's not about smart or not. It's about attitude. If your first response to something not working, or not being what you expect is "I've been ripped off". You get angry, and no wiser.

If you go "Alright, something's not right here, lets get help". Then you learn. You learn either how to diagnose it, how to fix it, you might learn that there are more than one way of doing things. You may very well learn that you got ripped off and you can still chase refunds and get angry.

But I reckon you've actually demanded refunds and replacements for items which were perfectly fine, but you just didn't know how to test/use them.

latecurtis said:
My ideas + your higher education / superior math skills could take it a long way.

As they say, success is 1% inspiration and 99% perspiration.

Everyone has ideas. Most people have the insight to determine whether or not they have the skills, time and money to execute. Hell, I thought of Paypal 5 years before Elon Musk did. I actually went as far as to see a lawyer about what would be involved in setting it up. But when they said I needed a banking license to operate legally, I dropped the idea. Ironic that Elon Musk is into electric vehicles too...

I'm not trying to insult your intelligence here. It's your attitude that holds you back. An unwillingness to learn, and quick to blame everyone else. The problem is, when you blame someone else, you don't need to change. You don't need to learn. You get to have righteous anger. But when it's your fault... Well, you need to decide whether or not you want to put in the effort to succeed.

I've worked about 3 weeks straight, no weekends. :( I'm starting to miss coming on here, chatting to people, doing work on my project, etc. But anyway, thems the breaks. I took the pay cheque knowing what was involved. You know the old saying:

1bdd869e28a41cddd0a04c94c49d3ea8.jpg
 
I have been dealing with storage. Me and my ol lady and my five roommates (three adults and two children) are hoping to roll out of here in October.

Doug cleaned his unit out today. A 5 by 10 and now the three bedroom apartment is what we call a clusterf _ _ k. Basically not much room However I bought a dresser off him for 20 bucks and moved that and one of my own in to storage.

There are about 10 bikes right now lined up at the back of my 10 by 10 taking up a good six by four feet of floor space. I had to use my intelligence to make it work so I can get more floor space as there is about 1/2 space left as there is other things there also.

One of my closets I tore down has a piece of 1/2 or 5/8" plywood about 7 feet long and 3 feet wide. I also have a two by six foot piece of wood left over so am using some old 2 by fours in the back yard about 8 feet long. The dressers are 4 foot and four foot three and reinforced the one I got from Doug.

I tore the top off an old dresser I am not keeping and got four wheels at wall-mart that swivel and made my own dolly. Cracked right in half at storage with first dresser the grain lengthwise we each carried 1/2 with two wheels back. In about 20 minutes I fixed with cross pieces of wood and screws and delivered the second dresser and left dolly there. Tomorrow I will carry the 3 by 6 foot 5/8" thick down on my head. I already got the 6 foot by two foot piece.

I will place the dressers about five feet apart against the back of the unit one in the left rear and the other about five to six feet away in the back and place the 2 by fours and plywood so I have a storage shelf about 4 foot high and all the bikes I am not working on will fit under the shelf and the two or three bikes including easy street with the flat tire and my 20" cargo bike and a couple others can go in the front.

I will then still only have 1/2 floor space left but can use the six foot by four foot shelf above the bikes to stack stuff up close to the roof. It will allow me enough room for the rest of my things as well as the ol ladies stuff. :lol:







I will now see if I can solder the BMS for the first pack. Thanks.

LC out.

4:45 AM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnZWrIRLgjo&feature=youtu.be

I made sure the solder went to liquid state at least two or three times. I did not change the tip. I forgot but did not need a larger tip as the solder joints needed to be smaller than the ones to the battery cells.

5 AM

old tip shot. Wont melt the solder. Basically shot.something went wrong with the tip. Iron needs to cool a few minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zr_7Obu030&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7N5-153rMQ&feature=youtu.be

7:06 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7N5-153rMQ&feature=youtu.be


OH s h i t . I was drunk. I just watched the first video over and hooked yp the wrong wire

I used charge for power. :oops: I got a little overdone female connector :lol: :lol:

I hooked up the other wire supposed to be hooked up and worked. Now it is charging I guess. I will soon see. :roll:

I have mixed feelings. Am I some kind of drunken idiot or will this be my first successful pack with a BMS ?

Or do both situations/descriptions apply ?



I guess only wat we know is see if charger light is green when my drunken a _ s wakes up tomorrow and then take it for a test run.
Thanks.

7:46 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efqHTA0Ec_A&feature=youtu.be

LC out.
.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3851.JPG
    IMG_3851.JPG
    143.9 KB · Views: 2,145
  • IMG_3855.JPG
    IMG_3855.JPG
    172.1 KB · Views: 2,141
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycBRB6aVnnU&feature=youtu.be


8 AM 8/16/18


I think I just built my first 18650 pack that is fully functional and has a BMS.

All I can say is thanks everyone for all the patience and support.

ES is the best. This Forum Rocks.


LC out.

8/18/18

Fixed the flat last night and Easy Street is back in action. There is no doubt that I will be getting another GEARED hub motor. I realize the difference and appreciate the efficiency and lightweight. I mostly pedaled down town and only needed to run the motor on the way home.

There is a red LED light on the back and a white LED light on the front. The motor makes absolutely no noise during very low throttle and barley any noise during normal throttle. It no doubt is my best build on this forum.

I am using the two SONA packs exclusively as they fit perfectly in the leather pouch. Also the bike is 100% rain proof. There are at least two layers of plastic wrap under the black trash bag. The switch and the fuse are covered with plastic as well as the control module on the left. :mrgreen: Thanks.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3862.JPG
    IMG_3862.JPG
    158.8 KB · Views: 2,092
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-36V-4-4AH-Lithium-Ion-Battery-For-Smart-Self-balancing-Fits-6-5-8-10/263872851639?epid=1372841978&hash=item3d700c2eb7:g:wk0AAOSw8P5bb1dX

I can't tell if there is a BMS. I would like to order about 4 of these if there is a BMS.

Please let me know.


Thanks.


LC out.


8/19/18

bottom picture explains why I wrapped each cell with electric tape then paired them off with more tape. I am building pack #2 now. I will parallel them.

I would like to attempt to repair the low voltage Samsung pack I got a refund for and parallel that also for a 60 cell pack. It read on those new packs that a 20 cell 10S pack is - 2p.

I did not know that. I thought a 20 cell 10S pack was only 1p. I have four 2,000 mAh Westinghouse cells from Wall-Mart. I could replace defective Samsung cells and repair that pack.

I remember DA posted some instructions. I will read them as soon as this #2 LG pack is done and in parallel with the other. Thanks.


LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3867.JPG
    IMG_3867.JPG
    191.7 KB · Views: 2,060
latecurtis said:
I would like to attempt to repair the low voltage Samsung pack I got a refund for and parallel that also for a 60 cell pack. It read on those new packs that a 20 cell 10S pack is - 2p.

I did not know that. I thought a 20 cell 10S pack was only 1p. I have four 2,000 mAh Westinghouse cells from Wall-Mart. I could replace defective Samsung cells and repair that pack.
10s2p - 10 in series x 2 in parallel = 20 cells

Don't replace HO Samsung cells with lower capacity LO cells and expect anything better than a tragedy.

Obvious to me but, you better find out for yourself, ask the seller about any BMSs on his various battery packs!
 
Don't replace HO Samsung cells with lower capacity LO cells and expect anything better than a tragedy.


The Westinghouse cells I tested for capacity and they were around the 2,000 mAh they were rated at.

I know better than to parallel them up to a Samsung cell but if they were on their own bank would the BMS charge them equal to the other banks in the pack ?

There would be no sense in tearing the pack apart if I were not to replace the bad cells with good cells.
I don't see another way.

http://prntscr.com/kkjpzi

OK. I looked it up and am doing the math. 40 volts * 7A = 280 watts. 36 volts * 7A = 252 watts.

If I parallel them up to the two 10S - LG packs then total wattage should be 840 watts (FULL CHARGE) to 756 watts@ 36 volts.

Is it safe to say that it could work as long as I don't go up any steep hills ? Please let me know. Thanks.

LC out.



8/19/18


8:10 PM

OK. The two LG packs are finished. Both packs are 2P and if each cell were to handle 5 amps then one 2P pack should handle 10 amps and in parallel then 20 amps * 40V = 800 watts. 36 * 20 = 720 watts.

Basically if I could replace the bad cells in the low voltage Samsung pack then I should be able to achieve > 1,000 watts and < 1,100 watts without overheat and damage.

6P = 5 amps * 6 = 30 amps * 40 = 1,200 watts - 30A * 36 = 1,080 watts.

Please let me know if this math is correct. I am on my way to Wall-Mart to get the correct size Tupperware container. I will be paralleling the packs later tonight or tomorrow and doing a short test run on flat ground about 10 mph for about 1/2 mile then do a recharge.

If I set the LiPo charger to 5 amp discharge on a single cell and the cell does not get too hot is that an indication of what to expect when actually running an e bike ????

Please let me know about replacing cells in the low voltage Samsung pack and also please tell me if these packs have a BMS and are a good deal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-36V-4-4AH-Lithium-Ion-Battery-For-Smart-Self-balancing-Fits-6-5-8-10/263872851639?epid=1372841978&hash=item3d700c2eb7:g:wk0AAOSw8P5bb1dX



PS. Bottom pic - 6AM - 8/20/18

Parallel cables with Wire nuts and 4P - LG, built by - LC. :mrgreen:

thanks.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3872.JPG
    IMG_3872.JPG
    123.6 KB · Views: 2,026
  • IMG_3871.JPG
    IMG_3871.JPG
    152 KB · Views: 2,026
  • IMG_3875.JPG
    IMG_3875.JPG
    160 KB · Views: 2,026
.
...
Wow!
You can't see any problem to using these 2 type cells in series?


img_5438-png.658899

samsung-22pm-10a-2050mah-18650-cc-tests-jpg.680725
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

6:57 PM - 8/20/18

I am inserting this. I just went > 1/2 mile and < 1 mile approx. on the flat ground with the new LG packs and tested voltage and was 39.6V. The packs were ran approx. 10 mph most of the trip. They are back on the charger. A BMS protects against over discharge and low voltage ? I am glad I finally listened and am using them now.

8/20/18 - 11:10 PM.

I took a walk to WallFart and picked up a pouch in Sporting goods for 10 bucks. It came with two tackle boxes I won't need right now. It holds both of the new LG packs and has enough room for both the SONA packs if I were to want to parallel them up. :D



Unwrap the 4th pack
Measure the voltage on each cell pair
Likely, one pair is high voltage, triggering the high cell voltage safety shutoff
1 pair or one of one pair bad
Try discharging to equal others

If only 9 pairs good, split into 3 x 3s2p
Add in series with 3 x 10s2p for 3 x 13s2p = 48.1V 13.2Ah


View attachment 2

The problem with that is I don't have a 10S-3p pack. I would love to build a 13S pack.

Even better I would love to build a 16S pack with a BMS but it would need to be large enough to power the 48V 1,800 watt brush-less motor.

Two 16S - 4p packs in parallel - 8S * 5A = 40A * 64V = 2,560W to 40A * 56V = 2,240W

At 4V per cell, each cell discharging at 5A power = 2,560W

At 3.5V, each cell at 5A = 2,240W.

16 * 8 = 128 cells and I would not want to build a pack larger than 4P for one BMS. This will not be a cheap build as I see no really great deals on single high quality cells.

The only great deals I see are on 36V packs. If I could get a decent 2,000 mAh cell which could safely discharge at 5A or > 5A at around two bucks a cell or less it would be a great idea.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-36V-4-4AH-Lithium-Ion-Battery-For-Smart-Self-balancing-Fits-6-5-8-10/263872851639?epid=1372841978&hash=item3d700c2eb7:g:wk0AAOSw8P5bb1dX

Again could someone please let me know if these packs have a BMS and if they are the same cells as the other Samsung packs I bought.

For that price I could tear them apart and build two 16S - 4P packs. If they are 40 cells or 10S -2P then four of them would be 160 cells.

However if they are the same as the Samsung pack with low voltage I would only need to order three packs as I could use eight good cells out of the low voltage pack.

Please let me know as if still available I could order three on the third of September. Four however is a bit much over budget especially when I will need two BMSs and a good 60 volt Lithium charger. Thanks.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3879.JPG
    IMG_3879.JPG
    175.4 KB · Views: 1,952
  • IMG_3880.JPG
    IMG_3880.JPG
    151.5 KB · Views: 1,952
latecurtis said:
Again could someone please let me know if these packs have a BMS and if they are the same cells as the other Samsung packs I bought.

For that price I could tear them apart and build two 16S - 4P packs. If they are 40 cells or 10S -2P then four of them would be 160 cells.
Do you read nothing I write for you?
What's the point then?
I replied how to get proper info on 1st question and explained, as simply as possible, what 10s2p indicates.
 
Don't replace HO Samsung cells with lower capacity LO cells and expect anything better than a tragedy.

Obvious to me but, you better find out for yourself, ask the seller about any BMSs on his various battery packs!

OK. I guess I could order one or two new replacement cells for that. I am looking at 6P for Easy Street as I can pedal it up hills also and the geared hub motor is very efficient.

I will call the company about those $33 Samsung packs if I ever roll out of bed before 5 PM. I am a lazy alcoholic. Had the 10 by 10 storage for almost a month and is only about 1/2 full.

I still need to call

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/

to find out about building a belt drive. I was thinking about building the Haro V3. It has the old Currie battery rack on it which I mounted the heavy 48 volt 1,000W Unite motor at the beginning of this post.

See pictures on page 5.

Back then the bike shop actually hooked up the chain for me. I mounted the motor and installed the 80 tooth #25 sprocket to the freewheel.

IMG_3882.JPG

Untitled.png


Obviously you all wonder why I would want such a small motor on the Haro. Doug has informed me that the rear of the Haro is NOT double wishbone and is kind of on the weak side and not as suitable for a high torque motor like the Cro- Motor. I tend to agree and am also looking to hide the motor with saddle bags. This motor is about 1/2 the length of the 800 watt Unite motor I was looking to swap with the dual motor cargo bike.

Also I am considering another 500 watt geared hub motoe for the front. e bikeling has them for about $164 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ebikeling-36V-500W-Geared-Rear-Front-700c-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion-ebike-Kit/272808207764?hash=item3f84a2e594%3Am%3AmvaXNmbpL6Ukj1aFVo6Q3Cg%3Asc%3AFedExHomeDelivery%2112303%21US%21-1&var=571948756537

Now add a derailleur with functional 21 gears and the Haro V3 will be a hill climber and should NOT burn out the little Currie motor.

I will need to hook up a speedo. and should get a couple of motor sprocket pulleys as I will probably need to match the speed of the geared hub motor. I think that a geared hub motor rated at 500 watts will go about 24 mph top speed so can order a motor pulley and rear sheeth.

I saw them on e bay for about $35 and posted the link awhile ago. Don't see it now. Now I have to spend hours searching for it. :roll: Thanks.


LC out.

I found that. I wish I could find the e bay link for the $35 sheath. Basically a 26" rear chain drive requires a $120 Currie wheel and #25 wheel sprocket. I would think that if a rear sheath kit for < $40 and a belt and pulley attachment for the wheel should be much less expensive than building a chain drive. Please let me know as I continue searching for that link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-wheel-sheave-fits-Cruzzer-whizzer-motorbikes-and-motorized-bicycles/323020489463?hash=item4b358582f7:g:ZGQAAOSwrklVFznC

I guess they want to rape me on the shipping. $18 so sheath will be $54 with shipping. Still the motor pully should be < $20 and also the belt. With hardware should be < $100 to do. $120 at the most.

At 36 volts the motor should put out 750 watts. Gearing should be about 20 to 22 mph for good hill climbing ability. The front motor will be exactly like the one on easy street so on flat ground the bike will be really quiet and should be easy to pedal. Not sure how much drag a belt drive is. Will only need the rear motor for climbing hills.

I also have a very lightweight Diamondback outlook which is a 26" mountain bike. It is in storage and am thinking about geared hub motors front and rear. For now though I will be putting the 800 watt hub motor on the front of the 20" cargo bike with the 48V ,1,000W Unite motor mounted under the rear rack. I have not ran that much since I put the new motor sprocket on it.

That also can be run with just the front motor on flat ground and down hills. The rear motor can be used for up hills thus much less wear and tear on motor sprocket. I am thinking about a 10p battery pack for both motors. The three Samsung packs and the two SONA packs all in parallel.

Since I already took Crane st. hill with the Currie at 1 HP (750W) with the Samsung 10S - 6P with aggressive pedal assist the dual motor bike should easily take the hill without over-discharging the batteries or damaging motors and/or controllers.

thanks.

LC out.
 
“It's funny how humans can wrap their mind around things and fit them into their version of reality.”
― Rick Riordan, The Lightning Thief

Come on LC. Grow up. You have more kindness expended to help you than any member I’m aware of. Dark Angel is your angel. Listen, trust, and grow.
 
Come on LC. Grow up. You have more kindness expended to help you than any member I’m aware of. Dark Angel is your angel. Listen, trust, and grow.

Yes I am aware of that. If it were not for him and other members all telling me the same thing I would still be using SLA batteries and cheap e bay LiPos.

I also would not have been able to solder like I do now and build my own 18650 packs if it were not for DA and DAN and SUNDER. They have all helped me as well as a few others but DA seems to have the most patience. I guess I have a problem listening.

Also Sunder sent me a hub motor and Dan has sent many things also which have helped me in my many e bike projects. Everyone here has been great.

However I also have to pat myself on the back for my persistence. I have contemplated of throwing in the towel on many e bike projects but I am not a quitter and will not give up.

In fact my design of the dual motor cargo bike is a prime example. I have been taught here how a steep hill will put a lot of strain on electric motors , controllers and batteries. I burned out my first 450W 24V motor on a steep hill at 675 watts and 36V. I also know today thanks to DA and his graphs that if the same 450W motor were geared for 15 mph and not about 24 mph it would still be running today.

However I enjoy a top speed > 20 mph and < 25 mph.

With two motors I can have both. The hill climbing ability of a 600W + motor geared for 15 mph but a top speed of > 20 mph. The 800 watt hub motor can run the 6P Samsung packs and a 36V brushless controller and the rear chain drive 8P (The LG packs in parallel with the SONA packs) It will be a beast going up those hills. I will post a video when it happens. Thanks again.

LC out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top