Rix
100 TW
Emmett said:
Yep, that why I will never run a bicycle tire on the rear of anything that puts out more than 1 kw again.
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Yep, that why I will never run a bicycle tire on the rear of anything that puts out more than 1 kw again.
Speaking of moto tire action my vee rubber VRM 012 is donski!! long live the vee rubber!!
I bought it in 2015 and average at least 2 rides a week.... I prob should have replaced it a while ago but meh...
Since I'm going to try a new tire I though I would put up a review....
MY SET UP:
Front Tire: Duro
Front wheel: Stock 24" MTB
Front Tube: HD MTB tube with MR Tuffy strips
Rear Tire: vee rubber VRM-021
Rear Wheel: Pro wheel 19x1.6, spokes 11/12 127mm, 6mm shaft L bends
Rear Tube: IRC moto tube
My weight: 165lbs
Riding: 95% offroad
Pressure F/R: 14psi/14psi
Review
THE GOOD:
The vee rubber was the perfect companion with the Duro on the front for the most part. I love that I can very predictably slide both wheels at the same time and make adjustments in a turn by weighting the front or back more.. esp on loose 2 track and fire roads etc.
If I needed more grip the Duro never failed when weighting the front and when weighting the rear the Vee Rubber matched it. Running 14psi it had no issues with ruts or rocks or square edge bumps the rim never took a hit even at speed. I never had any issues with traction or climbing. The carcass of the tire is stiff (compared to my ICE moto) so it handled the lower pressures fine. I took it down to 12psi once and felt that this was a bit too low. I felt the rim hit at that pressure. Climbing trails I never felt a need for more traction. Out here in so cal the ground varies a little bit but is mostly hard, dry and rocky. There are places where its loose and sandy and can be muddy but for the most part it's hard. On flat ground or moderate down hills the tire was consistent and under braking and had decent grip so no issues there. On the road the tire handled well and I never thought that it would slide out from underneath me even in moderately aggressive turning and trail braking. If I need to do a direction change by sliding the rear it works great and gives good feedback.
THE BAD:
Descending esp on long steep single track is where the vee rubber could use a little help. The rear of the bike did not have the confidence that the front has and felt like an unequal match. It will lock up under braking quite easily even with dropping the seat down to the frame and leaning back. I would be forced to modulate the brakes a lot sooner than I would like and rely more on the front than I would like which can cause more front end push.
Where I'm at there is a lot of tall dead grass that can cover a trail for quite a while making the trail quite slippery. The vee rubber isn't the best here and lets go quite easily.On large smooth boulders the rear would loose traction w downhill braking...(is there a pattern forming??????)
lastly when I have to push the bike up a crazy steep uphill the rear spins a lot and makes is difficult to push up. Granted this is a small gripe..
THE UGLY??
In general the tire is very predictable has good feedback and is consistent but may not have the top tier traction for the more extreme off road situations or wet or slick environments. It is very communicative and will let you know when it has nothing more to give. It's a great tire to go with the Duro. It may not have the top tier of traction but its so predictable and such a great match for the Duro that it makes up for its lack of traction in more extreme environments. If I lived in a wet environment and ride in mud I don't think I would use this due to the design and spacing of the tread would cause it to clog quite easily. If all I was doing was downhills I would not go with this tire either but for trail riding in dry conditions its pretty badd ass.
So on that note screw that tire!!!!!!
I'm off to try the m403!! because well...as we all know knobbies look cool and isn't that the most important thing???
be Interesting to see how the 403s handle in comparison...... Thx for reading fellas!!!.....
Rix
100 TW
Im betting you will like the 403's better than the VRM everywhere except pavement.
StudRock
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2018
- Messages
- 171
Tire and wheel setup looks Great..!!
I wish I could say the same. As of late, I have NOT been having good luck with tires and wheels. Its started off a few weeks ago when I posted that I got my first flat on the Bomber from a roofing nail. 2 days later while driving into work, I hit a landscaping rock with my BMW. Turns out that a truck that turned on to the highway dropped 3 rocks. As my luck would have it, I was in the left lane passing someone... when I went to get into the right lane the rock was on the dotted while line. BAMM..!! Both Right side Tires and wheels, the front splitter, the rock kicked up and severed the main battery cable going from the front of the car to the back. Anyway, $5000 later (Insurance covered it), I'm back in business.
I later found out that 3 other cars hit the rocks as well... a Jeep, another BMW and a Vet. The Jeep actually saw the rocks fall off the truck, but as soon as he hit them it took out tire and wheel as well. no one was able to get a description of the truck. Anyway, having bad luck with tires lately...
That said... if I wanted to get a MC Rim for the bomber and put a MC tire on, where would I go about finding a rim..? is it safe to say that any bike shop can lace it up...?
Thanks guys...
I wish I could say the same. As of late, I have NOT been having good luck with tires and wheels. Its started off a few weeks ago when I posted that I got my first flat on the Bomber from a roofing nail. 2 days later while driving into work, I hit a landscaping rock with my BMW. Turns out that a truck that turned on to the highway dropped 3 rocks. As my luck would have it, I was in the left lane passing someone... when I went to get into the right lane the rock was on the dotted while line. BAMM..!!
Both Right side Tires and wheels, the front splitter, the rock kicked up and severed the main battery cable going from the front of the car to the back. Anyway, $5000 later (Insurance covered it), I'm back in business. I later found out that 3 other cars hit the rocks as well... a Jeep, another BMW and a Vet. The Jeep actually saw the rocks fall off the truck, but as soon as he hit them it took out tire and wheel as well. no one was able to get a description of the truck. Anyway, having bad luck with tires lately...
That said... if I wanted to get a MC Rim for the bomber and put a MC tire on, where would I go about finding a rim..? is it safe to say that any bike shop can lace it up...?
Thanks guys...
Rix
100 TW
StudRock said:Tire and wheel setup looks Great..!!
I wish I could say the same. As of late, I have NOT been having good luck with tires and wheels. Its started off a few weeks ago when I posted that I got my first flat on the Bomber from a roofing nail. 2 days later while driving into work, I hit a landscaping rock with my BMW. Turns out that a truck that turned on to the highway dropped 3 rocks. As my luck would have it, I was in the left lane passing someone... when I went to get into the right lane the rock was on the dotted while line. BAMM..!!
I later found out that 3 other cars hit the rocks as well... a Jeep, another BMW and a Vet. The Jeep actually saw the rocks fall off the truck, but as soon as he hit them it took out tire and wheel as well. no one was able to get a description of the truck. Anyway, having bad luck with tires lately...
That said... if I wanted to get a MC Rim for the bomber and put a MC tire on, where would I go about finding a rim..? is it safe to say that any bike shop can lace it up...?
Thanks guys...
Here is a link for the rim. http://www.prowheelracing.com/yamaha-play-bike-front-rim-1-40-x-19-black/ A motorcycle shop (or Bicycle Shop) would be able to lace and true this rim to your hub motor provided you buy the correct spokes. What year is your Bomber? I think I may have some data somewhere for lacing this rim to the older 54xx motor, but not the new H5580 motor.
djjoonie said:Allex said:
it is indeed ludicrous price, I asked stealth direct, they said $550 for same no stealth logo light
This was back in 2016, im not sure if stealth sells them anymore tho.
Guys if any one is still interested in the BL200XQ ( Studrock was) .. i know that Carbonvelo sell these at under $200 US. check out their website.
cheers Nic
Rix
100 TW
StudRock said:Rix said:
My Bomber is a 2016... Thanks for any guidance you can provide...
I think you may have the 54xx motor, can you snap a pic and post it on the thread?
Rix
100 TW
djjoonie said:I recently upgraded my bomber motor to new crystallite UFO-40 series from stealth, not sure if this is the newest one tho.
(UFO-40100 =>100km/hr 72V system)
This is crystalytes newest UFO 40 series, not to be confused with the new H series.
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
I have known about it, but can't find the announcement. Where did you see it? BTW nice tire, you will like it.
Faster 6.2 kW motor on Stealth B-52's
Making every ride exhilarating and memorable drives Stealth Electric Bikes to continually improve our bikes performance.
Early 2018 Stealth introduced new generation batteries to our B-52 and H-52 models the feedback was phenomenal and our customers raved about the acceleration and extended range.
However, Stealth wanted to make our bikes even more exhilarating, we went full speed ahead and put Crystalyte's new generation lighter 6.2 kW motor on our B-52's and H-52's.
Punching out a peak power output of 6.2kW, the Crystalyte 6.2 kW motor is specially designed for Stealth and produce a full 1000 watts more than the previous motor with a bonus 25% weight reduction.
Combined with the new battery, the Stealth B-52 is an unstoppable joy machine. Twist the throttle for instant thrust, you'll be maxing out in seconds and hitting the brakes just so you can feel the power again.
If you are interested to know what riding the world's premium electric mountain bike feels like then contact your nearest dealer to book a test ride.
Sent to my email...
Btw...Is that UFO a better motor than the o.g. Motor?
Making every ride exhilarating and memorable drives Stealth Electric Bikes to continually improve our bikes performance.
Early 2018 Stealth introduced new generation batteries to our B-52 and H-52 models the feedback was phenomenal and our customers raved about the acceleration and extended range.
However, Stealth wanted to make our bikes even more exhilarating, we went full speed ahead and put Crystalyte's new generation lighter 6.2 kW motor on our B-52's and H-52's.
Punching out a peak power output of 6.2kW, the Crystalyte 6.2 kW motor is specially designed for Stealth and produce a full 1000 watts more than the previous motor with a bonus 25% weight reduction.
Combined with the new battery, the Stealth B-52 is an unstoppable joy machine. Twist the throttle for instant thrust, you'll be maxing out in seconds and hitting the brakes just so you can feel the power again.
If you are interested to know what riding the world's premium electric mountain bike feels like then contact your nearest dealer to book a test ride.
Sent to my email...
Btw...Is that UFO a better motor than the o.g. Motor?
djjoonie
10 W
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2017
- Messages
- 84
To compare the ufo motor with 54xx motor, the ufo is so much lighter and definitely has more torq and much more efficient and snappier throttle response at any speed. it has higher pitch and louder than the 54xx. I had to change the pole setting from dc-1 when I swapped out the motor according to stealth.
I can now do straight up 50mph with just a throttle, but with 54xx motor, I used to get 46mph with just a throttle. im 150lb. I dont have upgraded battery to get the full 6.2 setup I think. I'm still using 72v 17.5ah ? from 2016 but its definitely faster.
One thing that is bothering me is that it has some bugs with the DC-1, it has a weird power curve like its somehow restricting the full power from acceleration from stop, it accelerates and has brief pause and accelerates again with slight pause (0.2sec). its not full power cutoff but it does it around 2-3 times on 0-50mph and only noticeable from very slow speed to full acceleration. very similar to smooth auto tranny from car. you don't feel it when accelerating from 30-50mph or 25-50mph etc. I spoke to stealth about it and it is solvable with firmware update which you have to send in the DC-1 unless you have a special cable and program to update it yourself. so to make sure its the software problem, I disconnected the dc-1 and the power is smooth all the way to 50mph. other than that, I think its definitely a upgrade.
I can now do straight up 50mph with just a throttle, but with 54xx motor, I used to get 46mph with just a throttle. im 150lb. I dont have upgraded battery to get the full 6.2 setup I think. I'm still using 72v 17.5ah ? from 2016 but its definitely faster.
One thing that is bothering me is that it has some bugs with the DC-1, it has a weird power curve like its somehow restricting the full power from acceleration from stop, it accelerates and has brief pause and accelerates again with slight pause (0.2sec). its not full power cutoff but it does it around 2-3 times on 0-50mph and only noticeable from very slow speed to full acceleration. very similar to smooth auto tranny from car. you don't feel it when accelerating from 30-50mph or 25-50mph etc. I spoke to stealth about it and it is solvable with firmware update which you have to send in the DC-1 unless you have a special cable and program to update it yourself. so to make sure its the software problem, I disconnected the dc-1 and the power is smooth all the way to 50mph. other than that, I think its definitely a upgrade.
djjoonie
10 W
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2017
- Messages
- 84
1abv said:
My pleasure!
It can handle the heat much much better than the previous motor, I checked with same riding style/distance, I usually get more than half full of the dc-1 display on motor temp with almost hot feel when touching, but now with new motor, I get about 10% to none on dc-1 display. very slight warm to the touch.
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
Not that I know of. Crystalyte updated ALL of their H Series, added the UFO series. UFO series was intended to provide a little more clearance for the break caliper running a 203mm or larger rotor with the inward slanted side covers. The UFO55XX and H55XX are the biggest badest and lighter weight hub motors that are designed for continues power above 5KW. Don't confuse my comment, they are no where near the lightest direct drive hubmotors on the market, but for the amount of current they can handle and have a freewheel attached to, they are at the top, for the time being anyway. They weigh a full 11 pounds less than the older 5403 motor that came on the older bombers/hurricanes and provide more speed and thrust with same amps/volt input. The current H52 and B52 use the H55XX motor base with Stealth's internal modifications. The H40s 35s, and smaller UFOs all have aluminum stater armature's now instead of stamped steel. They are a little bit lighter, wick heat better, and have more thrust than other motors in the size range. Anyway the current H and UFO Series have the same quality of construction as the TCXX and TC40XX had 2.5 years ago. In summary, the UFO motor is not superior to the other current options, but way way superior than the older motors produced by Crystalytle.
icherouveim
1 kW
Do you know if they have improved the strength of the axle also? I haven't had any accidents with my HS3540 but I've heard so many bad stories with broken axles during riding. Also Crystalyte Europe doesn't sell them. It seems they are very new or they are not going to sell them worldwide.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
icherouveim said:
If anybody breaks this axle, they deserve it
Rix
100 TW
icherouveim said:
I don't know, I have thousands of off road miles on multiple motors with the standard M14 14x10mm 1.5 pitch axles. Never broke one.
