new eZip motor

Don't be blaming me for your soldering "successes"!
Though I have listed and exampled "proper" soldering tools and procedures, multiple times, I am still forced to cringe at your soldering videos.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

I still got the job done though.

The new build is a 20" kids bike with the 1,000 watt 48 volt unite motor on the back and the 800 watt hub motor on the front. Both will be run at 36 volts so total power will be about 1,250 watts. 750W rear + 500W front.

They will both run off of a 10P - 10S pack as on flat ground the front hub motor will run solo. I am contemplating a single throttle and on / off switch for the rear motor.

It is the smallest shortest wheelbase of any of my builds and will hopefully be allowed to take it on a train for when I go to Ohio or Erie PA. to look for apartments.

I will post pictures and a video soon. Thanks.

LC out.

8/27/18



As the Hub motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Another 20" build.

I decided NOT to put the hub motor on the front right now. I am contemplating removing the 800 watt hub motor from the front of the dual motor chain drive cargo bike that I built two years ago I think and putting the 800 watt hub motor on the front of that instead.

If I do then I can use the 800 watt Unite motor for a belt drive on a 26" bike.

Aslo I am not sure if the 800 watt hub motor will run at 36V. I think it did with three SLAs but would not with the SONA packs I don't think. I am not sure.

Also I noticed the wire insulation damage on the yellow motor wire. I tried hot glue first but did not stick. I sprayed down the axel and center with WD-40 a few days ago as the rust was terrible. I used an old tooth brush to clean the threads on the axle.

I used the end of a zip tie and toilet paper to clean off the wire before attempting the hot glue. I used a drywall screw to see if the glue would stick. it came right off so used liquid electrical tape. I got a can of rust converter paint that I will use tomorrow when the liquid electrical tape dries to try and prevent further rust.





Thanks.

LC out.


5:15 PM / 8/27/18

Took the new ride and the new LG packs I BUILT around town today. I did not run them up any major hills mostly flat ground. I think > 2 miles and < 3 miles. They were 3.74V upon return and the packs are being recharged. I have the 4P SONA packs and the 6P Samsung packs fully charged and on standby.

The 20' bike is in storage as I can't have any bikes on the porch anymore as someone in the neighborhood has been cutting my tires. The Currie has had two flat tires and the 24" bike with the 20" hub motor on the back at least one in the past few months. It is no coincidence.

I am still apartment searching and hoping to find something by October. I might still put the hub motor on the 20" bike but want a second coat of liquid tape and need to dig thru storage for my 36 volt Chinese controller.

I am using one of the variable controllers with the built in pot. for a throttle. It is not a safe idea to use that and a thumb throttle with the hub motor. Two thumb throttles would be much better. one on the right for the hub motor and a second on the left for the rear chain drive. Both with separate kill switches.

I noticed that most of the weight now is in the rear and was very difficult to carry down the stairs and that will limit the amount of cargo I can carry on the back. The hub motor and controller on the front and a second battery pack would work great. I am just not sure if the hub motor will run off of any of the 36 volt packs. Thanks.

LC out.

View attachment 4


Doug is building a couple machines. His is the green one on the top. liquid cooled. Mine is the other two and bottom pics. They still need some work.

Mine is a phenom and quad 9850 and and another HP overclocked dual core. I pulled a few cases from storage.

Our mutual friend Nate moved to Bradford PA. I will be taking a bus to ERIE or Bradford in three weeks. I talked to Nate and he got himself a good job there but is not stable. I think he might be staying with friends or family. I am thinking about splitting a apartment with him. Not sure.

The ol lady's son who drives a truck and owns a bussiness is way too busy to help us go to Cleveland so am going back to my original plan to move to PA.

I also am putting the 800 watt hub motor on the 20" bike today or tomorrow. There is too much weight on the back. I think the 6P Samsung for the hub motor and the SONA 4P for the rear as the front will be my main motor and only use the rear WITH the front to climb hills. Thanks.

LC out.

I'm keeping an eye out on the i9-9900k when it comes out. My watercooled overclocked 3770k is getting a bit long in the tooth.

I'm tossing up between going hardcore cooling and overclock - massive oversized peltier thats under driven (to increase efficiency and avoid condensation), or go itx based ultra portable - but that would have to be air cooled, since all that cooling gear would weigh half a metric ton.

The RTX 2080ti is also piquing my interest. Real time ray tracing in first person games. Only problem is, very few games support it. If Cyberpunk 2077 or Elderscrolls 6 support it (or if there is another Deus ex or Mass effect) I'll probably jump on it, but its almost a weeks wage for one. Pretty pricey.

Thanks for posting Sunder.

I am just trying to consolidate. I am not getting any help with the move so am not sure what I am taking. I want only good stuff. I was going to take a lot but now am not.

I prefer a little closer to the lake though. Bradford is a little south. i am looking at zip codes just over the boarder in PA and closer to Lake Erie.

Not sure what I am doing with my van. I need to get rid of it or put it on the road. It is one of the reasons why I am putting two motors on the 20" bike.

I might need to keep storage awhile and travel light. Then go back and rent a truck later when I get situated.A small backpack on the little bike with two motors. If one motor fails I have another, brush chain drive for rear and hub motor for front.

I got about 27 days to clear this place out and hopefully collect my security.

Thanks.

Travelling light is easy when you have money. When I had planned to go to the UK, (Still am, just delayed), I was going to get an I9 based laptop, external GPU, USB TV and radio tuner, built in 4G modem, and a REALLY large hard drive. That's work, games, movies, TV, reading, everything all in one.

I did get a portable gas soldering iron. It's probably the equivalent of 80W, but can be turned right down for fine work. It's handy whether I'm space constrained or not. I've used it to help out some friends where power was hard to get, like on a boat.

I'd planned to strip my Q100, which is very simple and small, right down to bare bones, and ship it with the tiny phase runner. Then, once I was there, build a tiny, tiny, pack out of 18650s with tabs. No need for assembly tools, just the portable gas soldering iron. Use a brand that could take a fast charge, and use a very compact charger like the Satiator. Being big but small, I could guerilla charge, removing the need for a bigger battery pack.

Not really so easy when you're budget constrained. Still some things you can do though. You might have noticed that the bulk of your case is empty air. You might also have noticed that your power supply is a fan. So you can build cases which can still get pretty decent cooling, but eliminate most of that empty space, as long as you use baffles and fans to push in air at the right spot, and the power supply to extract the hot air.

Hope you're doing well. The temptation to just pack a few things on my motorbike (Still gas powered) and just ride, and ride and ride, right now is real tempting. Work has been tough, home life a bit banal, and everyone's tired and over it. Got a 4 week break in December though. Finally will have earned long service, so I got some extra paid leave up my sleeve.

Sounds awesome. Glad you are doing well. I am picking PA because e bikes are 100% legal. As long as 750 watt and not over 20 mph.

In Ohio each bike has to be registered and inspected. That will cost me lots of time and money. NY is not legal as can't be registered. That may be ok here in Schenectady but not sure about small towns and small town cops. A one bed on average here is going for > 700 and less than 900. A two bed $1,000 and up.

I lived in a motel in Erie working removing asbestos for the Eastern Environmental company back in the early 90s as was living in the Scranton PA Wilks Barre area back then. I never got to go fishing. They worked us about 10 to 12 hour days in a lot of heat around the boilers.

The other reason besides rent is about $300 cheaper for a one bed and $500 cheaper for two bed.

Then there is the fact I have the FX-75-5 motor and was thinking about a small boat for fishing.

I still want to build a death bike and go to a race track someday like LFP did so am looking to design it so it will be easy to unhook and re hook up. I do not care if it is an old boat that leaks for a few hundred bucks. If it has legal papers I will buy fiberglass resin and whatever else it may need to get it floating again.

I can save so much money by moving where the cost of living is much less. Thanks.

LC out.

.
... DrkAngels Computer Tips
I know it might be difficult to comprehend ...
Good computer cases are designed with planned air flow, with some fans bringing cool air in and others sucking warm-hot air out.
When properly designed, all necessary heat sources receive "proper", ducted, if you will, air flow-cooling.
Leaving the side off the case destroys the designed cooling air currents and greatly reduces heat extraction from essential components.

If you really hate someone ...
Hook them up with high rpm blue lighted intake fans!
Blue, bug zapper colored, lights attract bugs and the high speed fans suck them in, shred them and splatter them all over the motherboard and heat sinks etc.

The horror are the smokers.
They leave a brown tar-felt coating every where inside, destroying computers.
Every components gets a "healthy" heat insulting, yet electrically conductive coating that is nearly impossible to safely clean.
Not quite so revolting are the pot smokers, which leaves a lighter coating that seems to absorb and retain their incense, cover scent. Very pleasing aroma as computer warms up.

Learned my lesson years-tears ago ...
Every computer gets opened and blown out before coming into my shop.
Canned air don't cut it, I use a quality cordless blower. Every loose piece of lint, dust and spurious critters get a 120mph eviction notice!

Overclocking?
Seems like ... Actual performance is minimally upgraded - while reliability is greatly degraded!
CPU is typically not the bottleneck in better systems.

"Memory"
SSD hard drive is essential for any high end system. SSD operating system drive in conjunction with a fast SATA "storage" drive seems optimal. Some of the hybrid drives should be mapable with the proper utility.
With enough memory you can disable the paging file and greatly improve performance! Easy to try!

Personally, I don't go for the newest-best.
I won't keep any high end inventory, the $1000 cpu might be worth $500 as soon as the next version releases.
Most of my inventory are proven reliable with "good" performance, not great or excellent.
For the best reliability-durability I specialize in HP and Dell Business class machines. The ones that cost towards $1000-$2000 for the tower but came with a 3 year on site parts and service warranty. You know they were built with quality components to avoid sending certified repair techs to your business to make repairs. After the 3 years, I can get these machines from businesses at bargain prices, upgrade, the now much cheaper, ram, cpu, OS and HD and sell the all extras $3000 version from 3 years ago computer for possibly $500.

If you really hate someone ...
Hook them up with high rpm blue lighted intake fans!
Blue, bug zapper colored, lights attract bugs and the high speed fans suck them in, shed them and splatter them all over the motherboard and heat sinks etc.

Click to expand...

Yes That makes sense. Even with a screen in front of the fan bug juice could still get on the board. two screens one in front and one behind would restrict air flow and it would block out most of the color making a pretty fan look not so pretty.

Colored fans pushing air out of the case would be better. For intake fans I would use ones that do not light up and still use a screen behind it so bugs can't get inside easily.

Learned my lesson years-tears ago ...
Every computer gets opened and blown out before coming into my shop.
Canned air don't cut it, I use a quality cordless blower. Every loose piece of lint, dust and spurious critters get a 120mph eviction notice!

Click to expand...

Again that makes sense. I remember back when I was scraping metal in 2013 and 2014 before I got my disability and metal prices went down. I took apart old TVs for the copper wire in my friends back yard and dozens of roaches would run out of them. We would kill as many as we could so they would not make it to the house.



My friend Doug read your post and is in agreement with what you had to say. He has been building computers for a long time. I have got probably a dozen towers from him at least. He has upgraded his system at least 5 times in the four years I have known him. He had an I5 Devils canyon for awhile but replaced it with something which runs cooler. I wanted the Devils canyon but he said it runs hot and there are much better options out there now.

I am about to install the 800 watt 20" hub motor on the front of the 20" kids bike. It is very small but both brakes are working. I am used to the 800 watt hub motor on the front as I had it on the front of the Blue Diamond Back Viper for a couple of years. It is and will not be a bike I drive fast. 10 to 15 mph is good for such a small bike. The rear motor will assist up hills and running a 6P - 10S pack for the front motor and a 4P - 10S for the rear should work fine. I wish Sunder good luck with his dream gaming machine. It sounds extremely high end and Doug was impressed with the specs. He does not impress easily . Thanks for posting DA and Sunder.



The forks are not the best choice for a hub motor. The yellow motor wire has already been damaged. I had to use the factory U washer that came with one of my hub motors to protect the motor wires from further damage.

The U washer I made with a grinding wheel I turned clockwise to make up for the poor dropout design. You can see by the forks what I am dealing with. I do not want to snap the drop outs. I am on my way to Advanced auto to get new hose clamps for the torque arms.

Case design is a bit of an art. It's like designing an exhaust for a gas engine. There's a balance to achieve between flow rate and turbulence. There's usually a sweet spot in the middle for both. This is why I said you need to use baffles and fans to make sure you achieve that.

I usually buy top of the line overclockable gear. First few years, I don't overclock. When it gets a bit older, I start overclocking. My 3770k on single thread performance still outperforms a stock 8700k, although it uses more power and generates more heat to do that. Using this strategy allowed me to skip 5 generations of chips. Could do 6, but with a couple years of overclock under its belt, I know reliability won't be there much longer.

Some of my games, like Stellaris (Real Time Strategy) Do bottleneck on the CPU, especially if you're the host. All the AI decisions which have to be made sequentially, not in parallel really puts a strain on the CPU. The GPU does almost nothing in a RTS game.

My strategy isn't for everyone, and definitely not for a shop (don't want warranty issues). But I think I've spent less on my PC by buying the best stuff and overclocking over the last 7 years, than most gamers would have.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Two motors is better than one. / All cops are not bad.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rj9NTgA-k08&feature=youtu.be


Easy Street took a serious beating about 21 hours ago. It is on life support. I was drinking quite a bit and the tire went completely flat about half way home. I did not see anything that punctured the tire but hit a pot hole earlier on.

I was tired and p i s s e d off because i had to walk and was losing my buzz. I slammed it on the sidewalk about 10 times. Then while walking it the tube started wrapping around the axle. It happened before with the last flat tire and I had a hell of a time. I had to carry it most of the way up the hill before I could change it the first time.

I was in no condition to carry it to storage so I bit the tube in half. I made it to storage and was tired and hungry. I started walking about 1/2 mile more towards Taco bell to get breakfast after taking $20 out of storage and locking up poor easy street. I ended up laying down in the grass a minute then continued walking.

I was about 300 feet from Taco bell when the ambulance rolled up and wanted to take me to the hospital. I told them I was just hungry and felt dizzy for a minute. I said I would be ok once I had breakfast. They said we have food at the hospital. I said Taco Bell is right there and I smell the sausage. I continued to walk and ordered two sausage egg and cheese rolls and a hash-brown and a large cup of water.

A cop walked in when I was almost finished and asked if I was feeling better. I said yes. he said I will order you more food and asked me what I wanted. I said I could eat another sausage roll and another hash-brown. He ordered that and handed me a couple of bucks. He said "don't spend it on beer ". I said Thank you very much. I walked home and the ol lady was still up at 8:30 AM waiting for me. I slept until 6:45 PM. I am a lazy alcoholic.

I bought five 25 oz cans earlier about 10: 30 PM and went to storage to get the SONA packs I was running last night when all that happened. am about to open one now at 4:05 AM. I will do a video with the new dual motor build if it is not raining tomorrow.

The rim on Easy Street does not seem to be bent but one of the plastic Tupperware containers was cracked but when I checked the voltage it was ok. I will check out the bike frame and see if any damage was done when I get around to it. I was a drunken idiot and beat up one of my best bikes.

They are charging now and will separate and check each pack and tape up the cracked plastic and will be hooking them up tomorrow to the rear motor and the three Samsung packs to the front hub motor as I will only use both motors when climbing hills. I may not run Easy Street again until after I move as there are too many pot holes around here. I think 20 inch wheels are better than skinny 700 c wheels on rough roads. Thanks.

LC out.

First few years, I don't overclock. When it gets a bit older, I start overclocking. My 3770k on single thread performance still outperforms a stock 8700k, although it uses more power and generates more heat to do that. Using this strategy allowed me to skip 5 generations of chips.

Click to expand...

5:18 AM

Doug and I discussing case modifications. I asked a guy at the computer store about mineral oil cooling. The guy said it made a mother board fall apart after 6 months. I am wondering if there are motherboards that are made of a material which can stand up to mineral oil. If not a cheap board or upgrade every six months or a model the same as a model proven to last at least a year with oil cooling.

There are many disadvantages to oil filled cases which are similar to the paradox of hydro vs soil due to PH lockout and what not. and I invented a way to do both which sported about 8 years of success. My solution to oil cooling is a decent board which can be used for over-clocking and submerge the side of the board closest to the CPU and memory if possible and run a liquid cooling system thru the mineral oil close to the processor and ram.

All hard drives and optical drives will be in the air and USB HDMI ect ports will be out of the oil as well as Freon or nitrogen cooling block / blocks or small radiators and a four 120 mm. fan cooling system 2 fans for intake and two for exhaust.

Also if there were to be a way to put a DC motor into a container filled with mineral oil and hook up a cooler that could work as well and also with the controller. Not sure about batteries and or old school vintage audio equipment. :lol:

All or most electronics power handling capacity is directly related to cooling capacity. It would most likely only be practical for small brush-less RC motors as the larger the motor the more weight the oil would create. Not sure what or which material is suitable to be submerged in oil. However with 3D printing and material science technology which I took in college and got a B in back in 2006 I see possibilities in many electronic fields.

Thanks and let me know if any of that is possible.

LC out.

7:27 AM.

I separated the SONA packs and tested voltage. 4.02V. The new LG packs are 3.98V. I put them on charge. I know the front 800 watt hub motor will work on the 10S packs. I am thinking 8P would be better for the front motor and I could really benefit if I were to parallel the new LG packs to the SONA packs for the front hub motor and run the three Samsung packs for the rear. Wtuber should be proud also as he stated as well as DA that the more packs in parallel the better.

The LG packs already failed miserably with the plastic caps up a medium size hill in 12S - 2P mode. That is why I am paralleling them to the SONA packs for 8P - 10S now. The front motor run exclusively on flat ground. UP hills the 6P Samsung pack will boost the rear motor and total power will be approx. 1,300 watts with approx. 22 mph gearing both motors working together. Total battery input power will be 14P @ 10S.

Again I can't take total credit for this. Only the imagination or creative part as I am a great innovator. Without you ES members who help me on a regular basis teaching me the basics of motors , controllers and batteries including building them this would be impossible

Thanks.

LC out.

PS. The 27.5" bike that is in the pictures beside the current 20" build (top bottom last post and lower bottom this post) sports disk front and rear and dual suspension. It is NOT a 20" kids bike and will be my first belt drive hopefully and am looking at a custom built 60 volt pack and 60 volt controller and the 48V 1,800W brushless motor and 40+ mph gearing.

I cannot hook the new LG packs to the SONA packs for 8P as the BMS on the LG packs is different than the BMS on the SONA packs. I was going to wire nut them together. However the BMS on the LG packs have separate run and charge wires. I would need parallel cables and probably will not remember and screw up the LG packs by charging them wrong. I will only be able to run the rear motor off the SONA packs I guess. Please let me know if otherwise.


9AM 9/1/18

I remember posting a video running a motor with the BMS using the charge port by accident at 0 load and the cable got hot but the system did not fail and is currently working. I am not sure if the opposite configuration charging thu the run port of the BMS could be possible or not. I am disenchanted that the BMSs are different on the LG packs I built and the SONA packs I bought. Please let me know. Thanks.






4P for the rear motor and 6P for front is final decision. Total P up hills is still 10P. No I wont say the G word but I am a smart guy. It is 9:43 AM and am hungry for sausage again. Stewart's has them and is a only about 3 blocks away. :lol: Thanks.



LC out.

7:26 AM.

I am sorry. Mostly apologizing to myself. I have very little self control. I am not just a lazy alcoholic. It is much worse than that or better depending how you look at it. Many alcoholics who don't eat enough destroy their livers < half way thru a normal life span.

I am a FAT lazy alcoholic. My friend downtown wanted to continue drinking after we polished off an 18 pack and a 25 oz bud ice. I did not feel like waiting for the store to start selling beer at 8 AM on Sunday and loaded the new dual motor bike up with empty cans and went to storage. I was hungry and went to McDonald's again and spent $17 on breakfast knowing there was a chicken leg in the fridge saved for me.

Drinking is not my only downfall. I am very addicted to fast food. Two sausage mc-muffins and three hashbrowns and a steak egg and cheese. At least I bought two steak ,egg and cheese and brought one back for my ol lady.

The dual cargo bike is running great and takes hills seemingly effortlessly. The range has greatly improved and running the front motor at 6P - 70% of the time and kicking in the rear motor for hills and slight inclines also seems to work out very well. However on the down side it is now much easier for me to get to fast food restaurants.

I was limited to Stewart's after returning from downtown running a single motor and single pack. Since their breakfast sandwich is not nearly as good I would eat one and a small OJ. Now I have that extra 2 miles. I might never be able to afford to move. My beer bill and food bill is kicking my a s s . Thanks.

LC out.

.
... Wheras I tend to simplify and consolidate.

36V 8.8Ah ... for cruising-meandering ...
Stuck Volt-Amp-Watt-Ah meter to reflector




2 36V 4.4Ah hoverboard batteries and brush controller and excess wiring etc.

I will need two of those meters. One for each motor.

For some reason the rear chain drive motor seems to lack power on low end but could be due to the SONA packs. 10S-4P

The front motor is 10S-6P and stronger it seems. The thing I really like though is if I engage the rear motor first from a dead stop it gradually moves the bike and when it gets going I use the right thumb throttle for the hub motor. This prevents accidental damage to the front dropouts.

Then on flat ground I just use the front hub motor. I do not see much difference when I engage the rear motor until over half throttle then I really feel the boost kick in. I could go 44V with the rear but then it would be more aggressive during take off.

I kind of like it the way it is. The only thing I am looking to change is the brakes and add a reflector to the rear basket and a LED light for the front. The brakes need minor adjustments. There is a lot of noise so maybe better pads or something. Both brakes are fully functional but could do without all the squeaking.

The other thing I like about a 20" bike is I can plant my feet on the ground and is easier to get off and on when I am drunk. Thanks.

LC out.

4:49 AM.

I like DAs bike as it looks more professional than a milk crate. I will look for universal front racks on e bay. That will allow more stability for a larger pack like the one DA has and at least 8P @ 60 volts with a 1,500 watt 48V hub motor.

Not sure about a belt drive on a dual suspension bike. Hub motor would work better. I wish I could afford a MAC. At 9 pounds and 1,000 watts it is listed to go 40 mph. A cheap 1,500 watt direct drive barley makes 30 mph and probably weighs close to 20 pounds.

Thanks.

LC out.

It will do 40mph with 60 volts but don't ride it too long. 40mph down hill with 44v is the best I have seen here on my gps. I didn't like it. even on my most stable bike. 40mph and the cars are passing me at 60++ no fun. 26" full suspension Mongoose big tires. Rides nice and stable but still too fast, so keep it on low to medium speed.

Dan

Thanks DAN.

I remember you speaking about the MAC, Then I did a little research and saw that is a GEARED hub motor. I also noticed that geared hub motors are 1/2 or < 1/2 the weight of a direct drive and approx. 30% more torque. I was really impressed.

The problem with the little 500 watt geared motor on my 700c hybrid is the scrawny little tires and the condition of the roads around here. I might just order two of the same motors for a 26" bike before I order a MAC. I need wide mountain bike tires to ride on around here. There are just too many holes in the roads.

Hopefully when I move it will be a better area for e biking. In fact I am doing extensive research so I don't move somewhere where e bikes are a poor choice for transportation. I prefer a place where they are allowed by law and the town or city cares about the physical conditions of their roads. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

Get 29" tires and tubes for your 700C bike.

Used camera bag, with industrial Zip ties for batteries-controller, ~5lb total.
Casual Cruiser is long wheel base (10" from rear tire to crank) step through Schwinn I picked up on clearance for $49.
Originally set up with larger bag with 4 x 36V 4.4Ah = 17.6Ah ... but, typically cruised at around 15mph, so smaller seemed sufficient.

Set up with a vintage brush hub motor. 36V 600w circa 2005 brush front hub motor.



See - Wilderness Energy BD-36

Get 29" tires and tubes for your 700C bike.

Used camera bag, with industrial Zip ties for batteries-controller, ~5lb total.
Casual Cruiser is long wheel base (10" from rear tire to crank) step through Schwinn I picked up on clearance for $49.
Originally set up with larger bag with 4 x 36V 4.4Ah = 17.6Ah ... but, typically cruised at around 15mph, so smaller seemed sufficient.

Set up with a vintage brush hub motor. 36V 600w circa 2005 brush hub motor.

Click to expand...

I do not really feel like buying another hub motor when I own three. The 26" hub motor Sunder sent which either needs a machine to fix the rim or needs to be threaded to a new rim. If I do buy more hub motors they will be from e bikeling. I am very impressed with them.

Then there is easy street. If I could put wider tires on easy street that would be great. However I would rather use the 500 watt geared hub motor I already own and have it threaded into a wider more durable rim.

Those motors by e bikeling are very powerful for their size. I would guess about 24 mph easily with easy street. At $164 two of those for a bike front and rear would do most hills with pedal assist and less than $330 with shipping. I have several bikes I would love to do that with.

I also have a 27.5" dual suspension bike with disk on the front and back. The problem with that is I do not see a 500 watt geared hub motor like the one I got on the 700c that is 27.5" However Doug said that 26" wheels will work on a 27.5" frame as he has a Haro flight line he did that with. Both front and rear need to be disk brakes though for it to work.

Basically most if not all my e bikes I will be converting to dual motors. Congress st. hill is a bear but only a black bear compared to the grizzly (Crane st. hill). I have heard how ALL my bikes are over-geared way too many times so I have come up with a solution that will fix all that. Two motors on each of my e bikes.

The Currie with the 36V 750W gear reduction motor was my first bike to take crane st. with a good head start and aggressive pedal assist. It happened about a month ago.

My ol ladies son the truck driver wanted the Clear creek Schwinn several years ago and offered $500 back before I even had my disability and I needed the money to pay rent. I turned the offer down.

However now I am thinking about taking the hub motor Sunder sent me and either fixing the rim if possible or threading it to a new 26" rim and putting that on the front of the Currie. John can have the clear creek then. I will order a rear GEARED hub motor just like the one on Easy Street. (e bikeling $164). but for the rear so it will get better traction on dirt and up hills.

The 36V gear reduction motor ran at 28 mph last year when I hooked it to 44V LiPo. The 1,000 watt hub motor does about the same with 44V LiPo. They will both run at 36V I think but a large 13S - 8P pack would be ideal. two 4P - 13S packs in parallel. A pair of 16.0 - 6S Multistar LiPos would be the easier and simpler solution and should be able to power both motors. Motor input total would be 2,000W

For now though I can deal with the Currie at 10S-3P like I have been running it. I just got back from Wall-Mart and got a new tube for the tire. It is almost as comfortable as Easy street but can take most pot holes and rough roads much better.

The 20" Next Turbo with the chain drive on the back and 800 watt hub motor on the front is fun but really only good for cargo and back up. I hauled two huge loads of laundry with it last night. The Currie is much more comfortable. Thanks.

LC out.

9:08 AM 9/4/18

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLbWHTiLrZs

I watched that before going to bed last night. I did not drink and was in bed before midnight. I got up 6:50 this morning and just got back from having Stewert's coffee and a muffin. :lol:

I am thinking that since I have so many bikes that converting all of them to electric will cost a fortune and way too much work at this point. At some point in time though I will order two 500 watt e bikeling motors for my Dimondback outlook. It is my lightest mountain bike I think.

The Haro V3 will get an 1,800 watt brushless motor or an RC motor and will be a belt drive as it already has the Currie rear rack on it which already had the heavy Unite motor on it at the start of this post

I will not be ordering the 1,800 watt brushless motor kit until after I move and get settled in my new apartment. However if I build the push trailer with that 500 watt currie motor It should be as easy as four bolts for the upgrade. Thanks.

LC out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.




I will be getting a sawzall from Harbor Freight for $30 and cutting off the front wheels. The front of the cart will bolt to a rear rack reinforced with steel.

So much for low profile but do not count out stealth. I will be using plywood on the bottom and enclosing the motor and chain so with the plywood on the sides it will look like a custom trailor and with pedal assist impossible to see the motor without turning the cart upside down. :lol:

Not sure how it will handle but the 1,800 watt brushless motor and a 60 volt custom built 8S pack could push me up to 40 mph on a smooth surface. Thanks.

LC out.

Stubborn!

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns . The Currie.. E bike perfection. Currie vs Currie.

Stubborn!

Dan

Click to expand...

NO.

LAZY. :lol:

I have two separate dual motor 20" bikes capable to take small to medium hills and both > 1,000 watts and then there is the Currie which took Crane st. hill at 1 HP - 10S and 750 watt with aggressive pedal assist.

I could accomplish much more but am an alcoholic. Not just a typical alcoholic but a lazy one. :lol:

However it took me a couple minutes to tighten the chain on the 750 watt gear reduction motor.

Took the Currie downtown with the LG packs I built. Performance was impressive. I built those packs. 4P - 10S with LG cells.

twice the money I spent on the SONA packs and Samsung packs.

Epic failure at 2P - 12S (two 6S in series) 48 cells. 44V Lipo (several months ago) THE BIG BURNOUT

I rebuilt the packs and threw out 6 cells and put together a 10S - 4P pack with a BMS I hooked up myself.

I am patting myself on the back and will get a meter like DA has which MIGHT show my gear reduction chain drive motor to be = or > efficiency than DA's Currie set up. Thanks.

LC out.

My ebikes are no longer over-geared Like was mentioned multiple times here on ES. I am now a real e bike builder to be taken seriously.

My 20" chain drives have ALL WHEEL DRIVE. Thank you. 8)

Prove me wrong if there is anyone with a better modified Currie e zip trails.
I did not spend $120 on the rear wheel for nothing. It is my only current 26" chain drive. Thanks.


LC out.

Stubborn, 40mph+ is what I am saying. 40 + beer.

Dan

Stubborn, 40mph+ is what I am saying. 40 + beer.

Dan

Click to expand...

No. Probably 40 mph - beer. :lol:

That is if or when it happens. Right now I am in the building stages of it with a small 500 watt motor. I have several choices of bikes to be pushed. If or when I ever do upgrade to a 40 mph motor I will be running disk brakes front and rear.

Does anyone have any more leads on hoverboard packs. I’m looking for 2 more to parallel with my existing set of 2S. I have the LG 4.3 Ah ones. I really need it ever since I got my 72V controller, my LG cells are getting HOTTTT (60-70 C)!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-4-4AH-Lithium-Ion-Battery-For-Smart-Self-balancing-Fits-6-5-8-10/263872851639?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131227121020%26meid%3D89a6981b46aa4fbcadb4218a7c9ce45e%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D332709893494%26itm%3D263872851639&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

Not sure of the quality.

I bought 2 but were SONA packs and have held up well.

I also ordered 4 genuine Samsung 36 volt packs but one was low voltage , a little under 40 volts and I got a refund for that one.

the other 3 packs have held up well. Your options are to take a chance on a no name brand or wait until a SONA or Samsung pack comes available. Good luck.

LC out.