Bluetooth Programmable Controller Mystery

mammonista

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May 27, 2018
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Maybe not that much of a mystery but I can't find any documentation on the Android ap for a Yuyangking bluetooth programable controller. Bought the controller directly from Cyclone (China) for their 3k mid drive motor. Here's what the ap interface looks like on my smart phone.

Screenshot_20180903-112403_Yuyangking_zpslmrggiad.jpg


Here's what the interface looks like after a couple of hours of charging the mammoth 48volt - 20ah battery.

Screenshot_20180903-153318_Yuyangking_zpsub9wmitu.jpg


So a couple of newbie questions here for anyone who knows what they're looking at (which doesn't include me!). I don't have any inputs to this controller other than the main cable from the battery, the wiring to the mid-drive Cyclone motor, the three wires from the throttle, and a couple of wires from each brake lever that kill output from the motor under braking. No speed indicator, crank sensor, etc. I can tell you that while I was riding (when I snapped the screenshot with the yellow bar) the 'input current' reached 20amps under full load and at full throttle. Does that sound right? And if the 51 volts input voltage (again in that yellow bar pic) is accurate how far might I expect to go with 56 volts input voltage (green bar pic)?
What kind of distance indicator might I add to the bike to interface with speed/distance functionality on this thing?
And then there's the programming function. Since there was zero documentation with this controller I was kinda in the dark for a while when it came to figuring out how to use the 'program' to tame the almost violent response to any throttle input from a dead stop. While 'fast start' and 'soft start' are individually adjustable on a sliding scale and each can be individually turned 'on' or 'off', the controller was shipped with both 'on' which leads to an interesting lag to throttle input that varies from one twist of the throttle to the next. Additionally after making an adjustment to anything on this screen the setting must be 'saved' before it will take effect. Which makes sense as the Bluetooth actually changes the settings on the controller only when the application saves the changes. Duh. I can tell anyone who is interested that in my case the 'soft' start was far too soft even when the adjustment was set to the maximum 'soft start'. But the minimum 'fast start' was just right. Power delivery from the motor even with a cheapo thumb throttle is now just about perfect.

The final question has to do with the third variable on the programming part of the application: Overspeed on/off. What is this for? Any ideas?

Screenshot_20180903-115548_Yuyangking_zpssofujdu1.jpg

IMG_20180903_121321_zpsecs1dnxo.jpg


AS always thanks for any input! You guys are the best!!!
mark
 
The speedo you see there is an rpm meter. Still useful, but different. Very good at avoiding you lugging and burning the motor.
Turn everything off you don't know about or don't use. Stuff like adjust accelerator curve and boost. They are garbage or don't work at all.
Overspeed is field weakening, something you do not need since you have gears. It is a rather inefficient way of gaining a few extra rpm in a certain gear. Since you have a mid drive you can just shift up.
Be sure to set up a low voltage cutoff, it is the one on the bottom. 42V should be good. It is actually 43V, since a 42.9V measurement will cut you off on the 42V setting.
The voltage bar and % are useless and inaccurate. The voltage measurement itself is on point though. The range you will be able to derive from your renaming voltage after a few rides.

Since you got it from cyclone, I assume it is the 60amp controller? It is working at half capacity now(30A). You can see your Battery amperage and Phase amperage settings (50%). But before adjusting them, you have to make sure your battery can take it. What BMS you have, cell types, and all. If not, there might be smoke.
(The software of the 40 and 60A controller is the same, so when it shows 20A on the dash it is the 50% setting for the 40A one, which means 30A for the 60A one.)
 
All great stuff to know.
Another newbie question. I went out and bought a CA2 (?) a few months ago thinking that would solve some of my throttle issues. I never got around to hooking it up as there were no compatible connectors on the controller. Was the CA2 strictly a Bafang kind of thing. Like I said I'm a newbie. :)
But if I were able to get it hooked up and working...
I ride on the dunes here on the Oregon coast (when I can, which isn't nearly enough) but I've run out of juice twice now and I had hoped either the CA2 or the controller interface could give me a better idea on the amount of power/range left in the batteries rather than a third session of 'pushing it home'.

thanks again!
 
I don't have a CA and in the cyclone thread as far as I remember there has been mixed results connecting it to the controller.

One clarification, when I wrote the voltage measurement is on point, I meant when you pull it down to 43V and you have your low voltage cutoff at 43V it will actually cut there. The displayed voltage in the app is incorrect, for this reason, so is the % and the voltage bar. Do you have the throttle with the led digital voltage display? That one measures correctly. Or the oro throttle with only 4 leds? Do you have a multimeter? 56v if true would be way too much for a 48V battery.
 
I'm currently using a thumb throttle on the right side. I still have the twist throttle with the digital read out but thought I'd use the thumb throttle and see if I like that better than the twist. I have a digital multi-meter. And this huge 20ah battery is supposed to be 48volts. So I should hook up the multi meter an see exactly what kind of voltage I'm showing at full charge. Couldn't I just permanently wire a cheapo ebay multi-meter on the handlebars and go off that? And then see at what voltage it finally cuts out and quit riding before I get there?
thanks,
mark
 
mammonista said:
I'm currently using a thumb throttle on the right side. I still have the twist throttle with the digital read out but thought I'd use the thumb throttle and see if I like that better than the twist. I have a digital multi-meter. And this huge 20ah battery is supposed to be 48volts. So I should hook up the multi meter an see exactly what kind of voltage I'm showing at full charge. Couldn't I just permanently wire a cheapo ebay multi-meter on the handlebars and go off that? And then see at what voltage it finally cuts out and quit riding before I get there?
thanks,
mark

If you want a thumb throttle, you can get the digital thumb throttle too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thumb-Throttle-with-LCD-Digital-Battery-Voltage-for-Ebike-Electric-e-bike-ZY/153079476463
Look at the voltage of your charger label for a start.
 
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