My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

Did you get any water in the connectors? I saw this once with a BBSHD build once. Disconnected everything , let the connectors dry, plugged back in and it reset.

This may also be a loose connection somewhere. Frey should be able to help you.

My PAS does not kick in until a certain RPM has been reached but throttle response is quicker. Maybe check by starting in the biggest cog in the back

..loving this bike so much! No tracks.. no problem

trooper5707 said:

My "sweet spot" for the commute on the Rover has been about 18-20 MPH at PAS 3, it leaves a safe buffer on the commute and rolls well. I do full throttle it on some of the tighter parts. Besides the bigger motor and battery, the mid-drive Frey has the advantage of gears, so with a similar level of effort on my part, I am rolling 25+ and still have plenty of battery, plus I get up to 35 on the tight parts. Also going through the gears on the Frey is much quicker acceleration.

The speed difference is noticeable, and makes a significant difference on the time my 19 mile commute takes.

My Rover is a 2018 - I have not noticed any drop in power until the very last bar, that takes it down to PAS 1 (like 150 watt on the meter) - and it barely moves.

If you've not ridden a mid drive, the difference with using the gearing is major!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed response. Nevertheless, until Frey comes out with a 52V battery, I think I am going to steer clear.

I got a reply from Ivy about PAS problem. She suggested that the throttle being to close to the control buttons could cause electrical interference so I move it about an inch away and that had no effect. I disconnected the brake sensors one at a time and then both and no effect. I made sure all connectors are dry and fully connected, no effect.
I've discovered that the only way to get the PAS working is a quick push on the throttle. Sometimes by reverse pedaling quickly it will come back on line but this is not an option when climbing a hill. As long as I don't come to complete stop most of the time it will continue to provide assistance. If I slow down to much and stop pedaling it cuts out and a jab of throttle is necessary to get it on line again
It seems like it's a problem with the torque sensor. Prior to this problem the PAS would initiate by barely moving the pedal, which sometimes was a little dicey when I am picking my way through a narrow space and needing a little forward motion, the bike would lurch forward. I would keep one hand on the brake to cut the power.
Has anyone had the motor apart to understand how the torque sensor works. Could the contacts be contaminated or could this be a faulty sensor and how hard is it to replace.
I am writing this update of the above post which was based on all the things I did yesterday afternoon.
Today I took the bike out again for a 16 mi ride and it worked like it had before the problems mentioned above. I didn't do anything other than reset the trip mileage before I took off. What ever caused the problem will remain a mystery and I hope it doesn't happen again
Thanks to the folks who offered suggestions for a fix

ryan1685 said:

trooper5707 said:

My "sweet spot" for the commute on the Rover has been about 18-20 MPH at PAS 3, it leaves a safe buffer on the commute and rolls well. I do full throttle it on some of the tighter parts. Besides the bigger motor and battery, the mid-drive Frey has the advantage of gears, so with a similar level of effort on my part, I am rolling 25+ and still have plenty of battery, plus I get up to 35 on the tight parts. Also going through the gears on the Frey is much quicker acceleration.

The speed difference is noticeable, and makes a significant difference on the time my 19 mile commute takes.

My Rover is a 2018 - I have not noticed any drop in power until the very last bar, that takes it down to PAS 1 (like 150 watt on the meter) - and it barely moves.

If you've not ridden a mid drive, the difference with using the gearing is major!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed response. Nevertheless, until Frey comes out with a 52V battery, I think I am going to steer clear.

Click to expand...

I have two 52v batteries that fully charged are 58.8v from Frey.

edgreenz said:

I got a reply from Ivy about PAS problem. She suggested that the throttle being to close to the control buttons could cause electrical interference so I move it about an inch away and that had no effect. I disconnected the brake sensors one at a time and then both and no effect. I made sure all connectors are dry and fully connected, no effect.
I've discovered that the only way to get the PAS working is a quick push on the throttle. Sometimes by reverse pedaling quickly it will come back on line but this is not an option when climbing a hill. As long as I don't come to complete stop most of the time it will continue to provide assistance. If I slow down to much and stop pedaling it cuts out and a jab of throttle is necessary to get it on line again
It seems like it's a problem with the torque sensor. Prior to this problem the PAS would initiate by barely moving the pedal, which sometimes was a little dicey when I am picking my way through a narrow space and needing a little forward motion, the bike would lurch forward. I would keep one hand on the brake to cut the power.
Has anyone had the motor apart to understand how the torque sensor works. Could the contacts be contaminated or could this be a faulty sensor and how hard is it to replace.

Click to expand...

Have you checked the speed sensor? Further idea would be to disconnect the throttle because if I use the throttle it does not register the torque sensor as input.

Can you send me a link ? I asked for 52V batteries, but got no response form Ivy. I will order if I can get the 52V version

Hardcore said:

ryan1685 said:

trooper5707 said:

My "sweet spot" for the commute on the Rover has been about 18-20 MPH at PAS 3, it leaves a safe buffer on the commute and rolls well. I do full throttle it on some of the tighter parts. Besides the bigger motor and battery, the mid-drive Frey has the advantage of gears, so with a similar level of effort on my part, I am rolling 25+ and still have plenty of battery, plus I get up to 35 on the tight parts. Also going through the gears on the Frey is much quicker acceleration.

The speed difference is noticeable, and makes a significant difference on the time my 19 mile commute takes.

My Rover is a 2018 - I have not noticed any drop in power until the very last bar, that takes it down to PAS 1 (like 150 watt on the meter) - and it barely moves.

If you've not ridden a mid drive, the difference with using the gearing is major!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed response. Nevertheless, until Frey comes out with a 52V battery, I think I am going to steer clear.

Click to expand...

I have two 52v batteries that fully charged are 58.8v from Frey.

Click to expand...

as well, what type of range are you realizing, 52V at how many ah?

ryan1685 said:

Can you send me a link ? I asked for 52V batteries, but got no response form Ivy. I will order if I can get the 52V version

Click to expand...

No link, when placing the order you ask for 52v battery upgrade. It will take some time.

Its 52v 17.5Ah (stated, not checked), it has the same casing as the 48v battery but only 70cells so you have a little bit less Wh (~10%) compared to the 48v. Now, as said before, range depends on numerous factors. I can get 60-70 km one day, while on another day also being able to drain the battery within 30 km. I am not trying to get the most amount of km out of one charge. Far from it.

If I have a bike that can go 40+kmh I want to go 40+ and range will compromise.

Cheers

Daxxie said:

joq3 said:

Is it possible to program the Bafang Ultra to limit power somehow?
In my country we have a maximum of 250W engine allowed and 25km/h assist maximum (no throttle).
When using the bike on the street I want to be able to limit it, and to be able to unlock it when going offroad.

I have bought the programming cable, would it be possible to maybe limit ECO-mode 1 to be maximum 25km/h and no throttle.

Click to expand...

What you could do:
Make a hidden switch that interrupts the throttle signal cable. With the software you can limit pedal assist up to 25km/h
So if you disconnect the throttle you only are left with pedal assist up to 25km/h

Instead of a cable I used a Power supply connector that I can pull out and hide or throw away (I have some spares)

Click to expand...

Good solution! That's almost perfect. But I would like to have pedal assist over 25km/h, just being able to limit it if I need too.
I have the Bafang flash cable, would it be possible to limit Eco-mode to 25km/h pedal assist? And let the Sport-mode have full capability?

I will do something similar as you have with the switch/plug.

I have both 48 and 52 volt batteries, I have to say it doesn't somehow have so much more power than with BBSHD. Power delivery is different when comparing the 2 motors, maybe the psychological aspect is now bigger with 52 :lol:

I have read through the entire post and scoured youtube, but I dont see any comments on how the bike performs with hard trail MTB riding, and no real reviews of the bike in use (only unboxing/programming/riding on a street). Im aggressive and hard on my bikes and want some assurance that the Frey will hold up and is trail-worthy. Yall happy?
Anyone ordered with 3.0 instead of the 2.8 tires?
Is the ex1 worth it over the xt?
I currently have a bbshd on a specialized FSR Enduro Pro. Very fun, but the bike is 20 years old. Im thinking of upgrading to Frey so I will have a newer geometry and better build, integrated bike (and friends/wife can ride the frankenbike bbshd). I read that the Am1000 is "different" power than bbshd. Anyone able to throw out a comparison of the Frey v. a bbshd mount?
TIA!

I use it solely for trial and downhill. Bikepark so far has been a bit of a challenge due to the weight on the 30+ feet jumps.

i use it mainly for XC and some intermediate DH.. like hardcore says it's not as nimble as the lighter non e-bikes, I find tight narrow corners a bit of a challenge due to the weight but everything else it seems to do as well as a lighter e-bike (with some planning).

And the Shimano Deores...the shifter is a bit of a bad design with a few youtube vids about the nut loosening problem (failed on me during a night ride in the middle of the bush!) Easy fix.. just loctite it or better still, pin punch the threads around the nut before you even use it.

Great to hear. Ready to pull the trigger. Anyone ordered one since the August 25% tariff? Did you get a vustoms/tariff bill?

https://www.bicycleretailer.com/industry-news/2018/08/07/25-e-bike-tariff-confirmed-ustr-will-take-eff

An extra $1000 makes this less of a good deal...

Marmalade said:

i use it mainly for XC and some intermediate DH.. like hardcore says it's not as nimble as the lighter non e-bikes, I find tight narrow corners a bit of a challenge due to the weight but everything else it seems to do as well as a lighter e-bike (with some planning).

And the Shimano Deores...the shifter is a bit of a bad design with a few youtube vids about the nut loosening problem (failed on me during a night ride in the middle of the bush!) Easy fix.. just loctite it or better still, pin punch the threads around the nut before you even use it.

Click to expand...

The shifter or the derailleur?

Off topic...

Anyone know which Crank Arms I can upgrade too. Shimano E6000 or Ex1?

Have the FLX Blade with the Bafang Ultra 510.


Thanks

rayebiker said:

The shifter or the derailleur?

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the shifter on the handlebar, have had no issues with the rear deraileur so far.
One screw opens the cover on the thumb shifter, it will appear similar (but a bit different) to the below image. The nut will eventually break free from those little tabs and allow the plate to spin, in turn the nut will almost fully unthread itself, more so if the shifter is stiff do to cable routing or binding.

Marmalade said:

rayebiker said:

The shifter or the derailleur?

Click to expand...

the shifter on the handlebar, have had no issues with the rear deraileur so far.
One screw opens the cover on the thumb shifter, it will appear similar (but a bit different) to the below image. The nut will eventually break free from those little tabs and allow the plate to spin, in turn the nut will almost fully unthread itself, more so if the shifter is stiff do to cable routing or binding.

Click to expand...

Thanks for explaining. a drop of locktite should be easy to throw on there to try and avoid the issue.

Im bummed I didnt order the Frey earlier. I think the 25% customs / Tariff applies from all I can see online. Thanks Trump.

Ddc6284 said:

Anyone know which Crank Arms I can upgrade too. Shimano E6000 or Ex1?

Click to expand...

any ISIS-splined crank arms will do.

I have the EX1 ones and they're a nice piece of kit, with captive self extracting bolts.

ryan1685 said:

Can you send me a link ? I asked for 52V batteries, but got no response form Ivy. I will order if I can get the 52V version

Click to expand...

The 48v 21ah and 52v 17ah are same price.

I'm having a weird issue: My left crank arm keeps coming off. I've only had my bike a few days. The crank arm came off once on a trail. I found the little bolt and luckily I had an allen key on hand and I screwed it back in very, very tightly. That was yesterday. I took it out again for some trail riding today and it came unscrewed again.

Am I missing an internal piece that secures the bolt somehow? Anyone else having this issue? It's really frustrating.

Ender2000 said:

I'm having a weird issue: My left crank arm keeps coming off. I've only had my bike a few days. The crank arm came off once on a trail. I found the little bolt and luckily I had an allen key on hand and I screwed it back in very, very tightly. That was yesterday. I took it out again for some trail riding today and it came unscrewed again.

Am I missing an internal piece that secures the bolt somehow? Anyone else having this issue? It's really frustrating.

Click to expand...

Left Crank arms are reverse thredded so counter clockwise to tighten it when looking at the crank.

Can someone please post a video of the AM1000 in action. I can't find any YouTube videos of the bike being ridden, only assembled. About to pull the trigger. I do all mountain riding and am hard on my bikes. Want some confirmation it will hold up and rides well. Planning on the lyrik fork. Decided tprobably skip the EX1 in favor of the xt driveline.