E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

I think it is a myth - a few broke it and it had a bad reputation since then.
Better question would be why did it broke, usually it is because the dropouts are weak and have a play. If you have a play then sure, you can twist that axle of any motor. Or if you have an insane amount of torque of course.
 
Allex said:
I think it is a myth - a few broke it and it had a bad reputation since then.
Better question would be why did it broke, usually it is because the dropouts are weak and have a play. If you have a play then sure, you can twist that axle of any motor. Or if you have an insane amount of torque of course.

aha I see.

By the way a guy from YouTube that lives in China and has an ebike shop told me that any motor when it spins very fast 100-120km/h if there is an anomaly at the street the back wheel flies for a while and when it lands any axle can brake. It has happened to him and he was at the hospital for long time. Actually he told me twice.

This is the guy I am taking about.

https://youtu.be/TwUfi11zDAo
 
Hello to all Fellow stealth owners,
I am in Australia in the Lake Macquarie Newcastle are and the owner of 2 two early model Fighters #81 which is White & #105 Camo-grey. The Grey bike runs 72v + with a Kelly Controller KLS2718s hubsinks etc and the white Fighter is stock ( at the moment). I have a few other high powered e bikes that I enjoy tinkering with but I'm not a bike builder and my tinkering and fixing skills have real limitations. I'm a newbie to Ebikes and like some of you too I have a petrol Motorbike background mainly Trail bike and Enduro riding I have now sold all of the 'gas' bikes for a sole Ebike 'stable'. I really enjoy riding these bikes in areas around where i live and that petrol powered bikes just cant go into legally or otherwise ... I have been reading and learning what i can on ES now for almost a year and I am specifically enjoying this Stealth Owners Forum.

I have two questions that you may be able to help me with.

1. Can a Nutech Tubliss 21 inch setup actually fit/work on the Std 24x3 Duro Razerback setup on the Fighters? Would they work on both front and back.... as I was thinking of doing this to both Fighters.... Also, has anyone tried running 4mm Super HD tubes inside their Duro Razerbacks ( ie Ballard's make them) or do you think they are too thick for these tyres and I should stick with 2mm Maxi HD tubes - as some of you have?
Incidentally... I came across a good supplier of Duro Razerbacks ( who was really cheap compared to other suppliers ) here in Australia
( for those of you still running the std MB 24 inch setups) .... guys name is Duane from bikepartsplusmore

2. Yesterday I rode the White Fighter in the rain and over some wet trails and washed the bike when i returned home as it was filthy. I may have been a bit vigorous with the bucket and cloth as now the bike's CA ( I have version 3) wont turn off at all... . the red light on the controller is permanently on even with the key turned off and pulled out of the bike. The Bike still rides but the CA is constantly flicking through its routine and intermittently reads low voltage. I'm sure this is to do with some water getting into the bike. Do you think if i leave it alone will it just dry out over time. Has anyone had something like this happen before and have a fix for it.

many thanks for reading..
cheers Nic
 
Hi folks,
A mate recently purchased a new Bomber with the UFO hub motor, though it's not cranked up to 6.2KW.
It is a nice motor and the DC1 seems to manage heat reasonably well.
Question for Rix maybe; do they have a six turn version of this motor, give me torque over top speed?

I have just had to re-drill the flanges with new spoke holes further in at a smaller flange diameter.
They were pulling out because there was insufficient metal; about 1.2-1.4mm from hole to outsideof flange.
Has anyone else had the same experience yet?
I had the same problem with my MXUS hub on my bomber and successfully applied the same solution.
View attachment 1
IMG_0101.jpg


Rix will vouch for this; MC rim on the back is the only way to go.
Awesome is a 17"x1.4" MC rim with a big 3.5" knobby or trials tyre on my bomber.
Tried 19" with tubliss-was OK but bigger tyre better. I still managed to pinch a 19" MC tyre occasionally.

Old Fighter well less than IP67 water proof.
Side covers off, battery out, maybe hall sensor plug separated to start.
You probably have water everywhere, including inside the controller; could maybe take the end plate off controller also to let it dry.

Cheers,
Clinton
 
Pinotman said:
2. Yesterday I rode the White Fighter in the rain and over some wet trails and washed the bike when i returned home as it was filthy. I may have been a bit vigorous with the bucket and cloth as now the bike's CA ( I have version 3) wont turn off at all... . the red light on the controller is permanently on even with the key turned off and pulled out of the bike. The Bike still rides but the CA is constantly flicking through its routine and intermittently reads low voltage. I'm sure this is to do with some water getting into the bike. Do you think if i leave it alone will it just dry out over time. Has anyone had something like this happen before and have a fix for it.

many thanks for reading..
cheers Nic

I think water got in to the key hole and shorting out the connection. I would open up the side panels and take the battery out and dry it with hair dryer etc, or spray some moisture repellent spray into the keyhole (key switch) and see if it resolves the issue.
Good luck!
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi folks,
A mate recently purchased a new Bomber with the UFO hub motor, though it's not cranked up to 6.2KW.
It is a nice motor and the DC1 seems to manage heat reasonably well.
Question for Rix maybe; do they have a six turn version of this motor, give me torque over top speed?


Rix will vouch for this; MC rim on the back is the only way to go.
Awesome is a 17"x1.4" MC rim with a big 3.5" knobby or trials tyre on my bomber.
Tried 19" with tubliss-was OK but bigger tyre better. I still managed to pinch a 19" MC tyre occasionally.


Cheers,
Clinton

If price and quantity is right, Kenny at Crystalyte will do a custom run of any motor they make with any stater turn wind a customer wants. But as far as being produced as a standard MFG option, no Crystalyte doesn't offer a 6T UFO. Unless you are running north of a 115 volts, you wouldn't want one anyway. I briefly ran the 5405 on my Bomber years ago, it didn't pull any harder than the 5404 off the line, and topped out 7MPH less on 24s (LifePO4). Because of the lack of inductance load, the 5405 just wasn't a good option on a 74 volt system (87V hot off the charger), that said, the 5405 didn't draw as many amps either. I suspect I would have a small advantage in hill climbing range with the 5405 over the 5404, but no much. I suspect you have similar results with the 6T UFO.
 
Rix said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi folks,
A mate recently purchased a new Bomber with the UFO hub motor, though it's not cranked up to 6.2KW.
It is a nice motor and the DC1 seems to manage heat reasonably well.
Question for Rix maybe; do they have a six turn version of this motor, give me torque over top speed?


Rix will vouch for this; MC rim on the back is the only way to go.
Awesome is a 17"x1.4" MC rim with a big 3.5" knobby or trials tyre on my bomber.
Tried 19" with tubliss-was OK but bigger tyre better. I still managed to pinch a 19" MC tyre occasionally.


Cheers,
Clinton

If price and quantity is right, Kenny at Crystalyte will do a custom run of any motor they make with any stater turn wind a customer wants. But as far as being produced as a standard MFG option, no Crystalyte doesn't offer a 6T UFO. Unless you are running north of a 115 volts, you wouldn't want one anyway. I briefly ran the 5405 on my Bomber years ago, it didn't pull any harder than the 5404 off the line, and topped out 7MPH less on 24s (LifePO4). Because of the lack of inductance load, the 5405 just wasn't a good option on a 74 volt system (87V hot off the charger), that said, the 5405 didn't draw as many amps either. I suspect I would have a small advantage in hill climbing range with the 5405 over the 5404, but no much. I suspect you have similar results with the 6T UFO.

thanks Rix,
My 6T MXUS pulls way better and more efficiently on my 72V setup than the 4T version I eventually blew up, though it is only good for 50-60kmh, which is plenty for scooting along the locals.
Cheers
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Rix said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi folks,
A mate recently purchased a new Bomber with the UFO hub motor, though it's not cranked up to 6.2KW.
It is a nice motor and the DC1 seems to manage heat reasonably well.
Question for Rix maybe; do they have a six turn version of this motor, give me torque over top speed?


Rix will vouch for this; MC rim on the back is the only way to go.
Awesome is a 17"x1.4" MC rim with a big 3.5" knobby or trials tyre on my bomber.
Tried 19" with tubliss-was OK but bigger tyre better. I still managed to pinch a 19" MC tyre occasionally.


Cheers,
Clinton

If price and quantity is right, Kenny at Crystalyte will do a custom run of any motor they make with any stater turn wind a customer wants. But as far as being produced as a standard MFG option, no Crystalyte doesn't offer a 6T UFO. Unless you are running north of a 115 volts, you wouldn't want one anyway. I briefly ran the 5405 on my Bomber years ago, it didn't pull any harder than the 5404 off the line, and topped out 7MPH less on 24s (LifePO4). Because of the lack of inductance load, the 5405 just wasn't a good option on a 74 volt system (87V hot off the charger), that said, the 5405 didn't draw as many amps either. I suspect I would have a small advantage in hill climbing range with the 5405 over the 5404, but no much. I suspect you have similar results with the 6T UFO.

thanks Rix,
My 6T MXUS pulls way better and more efficiently on my 72V setup than the 4T version I eventually blew up, though it is only good for 50-60kmh, which is plenty for scooting along the locals.
Cheers
Your 6T is different as it has less copper than the 4T even though it has more winds/turns on the stater. What this tells me is, your 6T is able to draw enough amps from your controller to pull harder than the 4T. But generally speaking if your controller is not the limiting factor, this would not be the case.
 
Random pics of my bomber and fighter and hidden tool kit :)

wDhViuv.jpg


IvqYcoP.jpg


xnvZjkj.jpg


9BWOimo.jpg


67MoxrQ.jpg
 
djjoonie said:
Random pics of my bomber and fighter and hidden tool kit :)



67MoxrQ.jpg

Do you have any details about the bike stand shown in the bike photos? Great collection by the way!
 
CFM said:
djjoonie said:
Random pics of my bomber and fighter and hidden tool kit :)



67MoxrQ.jpg

Do you have any details about the bike stand shown in the bike photos? Great collection by the way!

Thank you CFM, the bike stand is $30 "Bikehand Bike Bicycle Floor Parking Rack Storage Stand " from amazon and they work great since the bikes are rear heavy!
 
Not a Stealth owner just yet but ive been reading this thread for weeks as i sell off other toys to fund my purchase.

I just saw 2 stealths ride past my house in the lower mountains near an entrance to Yellowmundee mtb trails, hit me up via PM if you are local would be great to catch up for rides when i finally get a Bomber of my own.
 
Rix said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Rix said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi folks,
A mate recently purchased a new Bomber with the UFO hub motor, though it's not cranked up to 6.2KW.
It is a nice motor and the DC1 seems to manage heat reasonably well.
Question for Rix maybe; do they have a six turn version of this motor, give me torque over top speed?


Rix will vouch for this; MC rim on the back is the only way to go.
Awesome is a 17"x1.4" MC rim with a big 3.5" knobby or trials tyre on my bomber.
Tried 19" with tubliss-was OK but bigger tyre better. I still managed to pinch a 19" MC tyre occasionally.


Cheers,
Clinton

If price and quantity is right, Kenny at Crystalyte will do a custom run of any motor they make with any stater turn wind a customer wants. But as far as being produced as a standard MFG option, no Crystalyte doesn't offer a 6T UFO. Unless you are running north of a 115 volts, you wouldn't want one anyway. I briefly ran the 5405 on my Bomber years ago, it didn't pull any harder than the 5404 off the line, and topped out 7MPH less on 24s (LifePO4). Because of the lack of inductance load, the 5405 just wasn't a good option on a 74 volt system (87V hot off the charger), that said, the 5405 didn't draw as many amps either. I suspect I would have a small advantage in hill climbing range with the 5405 over the 5404, but no much. I suspect you have similar results with the 6T UFO.

thanks Rix,
My 6T MXUS pulls way better and more efficiently on my 72V setup than the 4T version I eventually blew up, though it is only good for 50-60kmh, which is plenty for scooting along the locals.
Cheers
Your 6T is different as it has less copper than the 4T even though it has more winds/turns on the stater. What this tells me is, your 6T is able to draw enough amps from your controller to pull harder than the 4T. But generally speaking if your controller is not the limiting factor, this would not be the case.

Hi again Rix,
Sorry to keep asking questions. I am trying to understand.
With the 6T motor, the CA showed I was pulling around 5.5kW, however with the 4T motor it would show up around 7-8kW.
I expected the 6T motor to pull the same watts as the 4T, yet it doesn't for some reason and I've not changed anything else?
Cheers,
Clinton
 
With the 6T motor, the CA showed I was pulling around 5.5kW, however with the 4T motor it would show up around 7-8kW.

Yah thats that whole inductance load thing I was talking about. Because of the actual copper fill on the 4T is higher, I guess I am surprised that the 6T pulls harder off the line at 5.5KW versus the 4T at 8KW. Of course I would expect the 6T to pull harder off the line at 5.5KW if the 4T was also only drawing 5.5KW as well and the controller WAS the limiting factor, but in you case its not. Shows what I know. :?: :?
 
Rix said:
With the 6T motor, the CA showed I was pulling around 5.5kW, however with the 4T motor it would show up around 7-8kW.

Yah thats that whole inductance load thing I was talking about. Because of the actual copper fill on the 4T is higher, I guess I am surprised that the 6T pulls harder off the line at 5.5KW versus the 4T at 8KW. Of course I would expect the 6T to pull harder off the line at 5.5KW if the 4T was also only drawing 5.5KW as well and the controller WAS the limiting factor, but in you case its not. Shows what I know. :?: :?

Thanks Rix!!
Cheers
 
44590643422_dbe103f47a_z.jpg


Hey fellas do any of you know what this white goop on the battery connector is? It was across the connector and the BMS I think its there to help hold the connector together during vibration etc...I'm guessing its some kind of caulk or silicone.... Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMS-PCM-for-72V-24S-50A-80A-LFP-LiFePO4-LimPO4-Battery-Balance-Function-/112231353546


Hey does anyone know if this is the same BMS that's used in the bomber? Thanks in advance! Or if not do you know what the one in the bomber is?

Thanks!
 
1abv said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMS-PCM-for-72V-24S-50A-80A-LFP-LiFePO4-LimPO4-Battery-Balance-Function-/112231353546


Hey does anyone know if this is the same BMS that's used in the bomber? Thanks in advance! Or if not do you know what the one in the bomber is?

Thanks!

Thats similar to the old BMS. Stealth is tight lipped about the new one, but they are rated for 100amps continues.
 
I'd like to know what that picture has to do with Stealth BMS's, but could you please post about 10 more pictures like it so I can ascertain the connection?
 
Hi Guys.... not meaning to hijack the forum on this one... but appreciate some help from your experience..

So the attached pic shows that I 'cooked' my Stealth Fighter (#81) with its original Crystalyte motor today. I need some advice.



I am running a 18650 72 volt+ battery Kelly KLS7218 controller setup with amps set at around 55amps. This setup had some nice pull BTW 10-40Mph and would top out at around 50Ph... I obviously need a new motor now that can cope with the increased amps and Volts from the stock set up.
I am running original Fighter MTB rims and Duro 24x3 type tyres. I ride predominantly off road on steep and rocky hard terrain. I ride this bike and all my bikes very hard..... WOT is normal for me... and i ride the Fighters i have... like Moto bikes when i can.. :)
My two questions are:

1. Its been suggested to me professionally by my local Ebike motor expert that I simply purchase a QS205 and lace that into my existing MTB rim. Now i know that motor is very solid and I think very heavy ( too heavy) as an option and while im sure it will handle the heat that my 72V+ system puts out I think the weight is heaps more than the original Fighter motor ( maybe double?) and I'm not sure it would be good for the unsprung mass on the back wheel of the bike for the off road riding that i do... im also not sure that lacing that motor into the original MTB type rim rather than a Moto type rim would last or be that smart? I'm already around 6.2 foot and 95kgs in weight. Is this bad advice I'm getting to consider this... or I'm being paranoid here? im sure the QS205 has benefits but better suited on road im sure..

2. If you guys had my setup on this early model Fighter and the option to fit best motor ( with an open cheque book) for best low torque and high power off road riding.. what MOTOR would you choose/advise? I want to ride at max 45mph top speed (occasionally as but low down torque and maneuverability off road is more important than top end to me...

I have read a lot of this forum and all the Stealth Owners posts and attempted to disseminate the info .. .. but for for newbie like me on E-bikes with a predominant Moto background i would really appreciate your thoughts/advice here.. im not sure a QS 205 is the best option... I know some of you have stuck with Stealth Factory option.. others have gone sideways.... im sure other options like a more recent Crystalyte, Leaf, MXUS, or even Mac geared motors may work better.. what can you suggest in your experience?

thanks Nic.
 
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