PowerVelocity controller review

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ElectricGod said:
7. This is an old gripe that in the current MCU's is fixed. They now support sensorless motor control. Lose a hall or halls and just unplug the hall cable and keep going.

That is good news

I need a controller like this.
 
Dual mode operation has been available for some time now. I have a good stock of 6F, 12F, and 18F controllers with sensorless option. Feel free to reach out and let me know which one you need.

markz said:
ElectricGod said:
7. This is an old gripe that in the current MCU's is fixed. They now support sensorless motor control. Lose a hall or halls and just unplug the hall cable and keep going.

That is good news

I need a controller like this.
 
Powervelocity.com said:
Dual mode operation has been available for some time now. I have a good stock of 6F, 12F, and 18F controllers with sensorless option. Feel free to reach out and let me know which one you need.

Yup just gotta save up!
And I buy from you!
 
ecross said:
ElectricGod said:
I got the new telemetry modules On Saturday. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet.

Hi, very good news! I`m ready to buy. Please send ASAP more infos. My new Motor and new battery are ready!
 
Has anyone tried installing an ignition switch inside the controller, on the end plate, such as the one below? It seems like a good location on the bike, and would minimize external wiring. It looks like there is room inside the box, in the 18 fet units.

https://www.amazon.com/1PZ-KS0-103-Ignition-Scooter-Coolsport/dp/B06XMQLBRP
 
A number of controllers have had those built in over the years, so it's certainly a workable idea, as long as there's room so that the exposed bits of the switch/contacts don't touch anything, or you heatshrink/insulate it all against the possibility.

However, if the switch isn't completely waterproof, it can get destroyed by enough moisture getting into it. Even here in dry Phoenix, there's still enough occurences of that to have nuked a couple of such switches built into the ends of controllers, including one on a Grinfineon that has a water-resistant flexcap over the rocker switch. (the controller itself is still in use on the SB Cruiser; I just wired around the switch inside).
 
amberwolf said:
A number of controllers have had those built in over the years, so it's certainly a workable idea, as long as there's room so that the exposed bits of the switch/contacts don't touch anything, or you heatshrink/insulate it all against the possibility.

However, if the switch isn't completely waterproof, it can get destroyed by enough moisture getting into it. Even here in dry Phoenix, there's still enough occurences of that to have nuked a couple of such switches built into the ends of controllers, including one on a Grinfineon that has a water-resistant flexcap over the rocker switch. (the controller itself is still in use on the SB Cruiser; I just wired around the switch inside).

hmm. fair enough. ok, I'll try to put the switch into the junction box I ordered to protect all the connections and the bluetooth dongle pcb. I don't know how well I'll be able to waterproof that box, since there will be a big bundle of wires going in and out. Since they already have connectors on them, it's hard to use cable glands or something similar. Maybe hot glue or silicone around the wire entry and exit points?
 
I had to replace all the AOT290 FET's on two 12F controllers because the stock ones, which seemed to be non-genuine, broke two times (they just had a short circuit), even at very low battery voltage (13s) and low amp settings.

Following thing probably has nothing todo with the initial problem, but when looking at the power stage i noticed that on each phase, one mosfet isn't soldered directly to the large copper bus bar as all the others, but instead it takes it's current from a thin layer of copper which is about 10mm long. check the pics.
I beefed up this power trace, and also soldered some low ESR ceramic caps close to the FET's. The battery wires i swapped for 8AWG which is probably overkill for this kind of controller, but it cannot harm.

The controller now is installed inside a Q76R frame and there is not the even a slight airflow over it, but surprisingly it stays very cool at 3000 - 3500Watts.
It probably keeps staying that cool because the genuine AOT290 FET's have lower Rds on (about 2/3 compared to the other ones), but also the fat wires together with the lower inductive power stage should help.
But the best thing is the controllers seem to be reliable now and i feel confident that those FET's will hold up well.

edit:
pics added

ig86hM.jpg


JtR9BK.jpg


oywoXK.jpg


W5uTSe.jpg


lIlxGG.jpg
 
madin88 said:
The controller now is installed inside a Q76R frame and there is not the even a slight airflow over it, but surprisingly it stays very cool at 3000 - 3500Watts.

Wow, you're really pushing that thing hard. I have the 12F version with 4110s and can hit peaks of 3kW but closer to 2kW for long stretches. Mine gets pretty warm but I have it mounted to the bike frame with heavy aluminum that acts like a heat sink.
 
Anyone having trouble with the current measurements in the app? My shunt was labeled 1.16 mohm, but I'm reading peak battery current of 146A. When I'm at 55% charge or less and I hit the throttle, the battery bms low voltage cutoff triggers.

I do have a 16s7p 30q pack, but I don't think those numbers are possible. I have an 18 fet controller, set for 80A.

I calibrated the shunt today using a 5a lab source and a fluke 87v meter and I also measured 1.16 mohm.
 
ecross said:
ecross said:
ElectricGod said:
I got the new telemetry modules On Saturday. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet.

Hi, very good news! I`m ready to buy. Please send ASAP more infos. My new Motor and new battery are ready!

Hello, is your new 18Fet controller still working? Please send some more max. ratings from your settings.

BR
 
fechter said:
Wow, you're really pushing that thing hard. I have the 12F version with 4110s and can hit peaks of 3kW but closer to 2kW for long stretches. Mine gets pretty warm but I have it mounted to the bike frame with heavy aluminum that acts like a heat sink.
It is running at 40A and 20s battery, but the phase amps are set to only 80A (i think 120A are possible). The motor is MXUS V2 (45h).
This controller probably can do much more amps with those AOT290 FET's, but i don't want to find it out as it is now installed on the bike from a friend, and i already had to repair it two times because the stock FET's died :lol:
 
madin88 said:
It is running at 40A and 20s battery, but the phase amps are set to only 80A (i think 120A are possible). The motor is MXUS V2 (45h).
This controller probably can do much more amps with those AOT290 FET's, but i don't want to find it out as it is now installed on the bike from a friend, and i already had to repair it two times because the stock FET's died :lol:

As Alan pointed out, it's the current that matters not so much the wattage. 40A is pretty reasonable. I can hit 60A but as soon as I pick up some speed it drops to 50A. At that point the motor just isn't taking more.
 
fechter said:
I can hit 60A but as soon as I pick up some speed it drops to 50A. At that point the motor just isn't taking more.

really also on a 12F? Because the programming app does not allow more than 45A from what i know.
 
Mine is one of the very earliest versions. The shunt resistance is probably lower than normal. I’m using a CA with a separate shunt to measure the current.
 
fechter said:
madin88 said:
The controller now is installed inside a Q76R frame and there is not the even a slight airflow over it, but surprisingly it stays very cool at 3000 - 3500Watts.

Wow, you're really pushing that thing hard. I have the 12F version with 4110s and can hit peaks of 3kW but closer to 2kW for long stretches. Mine gets pretty warm but I have it mounted to the bike frame with heavy aluminum that acts like a heat sink.

I have 2 of these with legit AOT290's in them. I regularly see 4kw on them for miles and miles at a time. The controller warms up to like 90F.
 
n2mb said:
Anyone having trouble with the current measurements in the app? My shunt was labeled 1.16 mohm, but I'm reading peak battery current of 146A. When I'm at 55% charge or less and I hit the throttle, the battery bms low voltage cutoff triggers.

I do have a 16s7p 30q pack, but I don't think those numbers are possible. I have an 18 fet controller, set for 80A.

I calibrated the shunt today using a 5a lab source and a fluke 87v meter and I also measured 1.16 mohm.

The shunt on my 15f was labeled as 1.9mohm, but the app was showing a max peak of about 200a. I've had to change my shunt value to 0.5mohm to get a reading that is half believable.
 
There was a bug in the firmware that caused it.
This is now fixed - please install the latest firmware (1.17) via the app and set your labeled shunt value. The amp readings will be accurate.

shorza said:
The shunt on my 15f was labeled as 1.9mohm, but the app was showing a max peak of about 200a. I've had to change my shunt value to 0.5mohm to get a reading that is half believable.
 
Can someone post a photo of your 2nd gen PowerVelocity controller mounted on their eBike or eScooter? In particular, I'm curious how you handled protecting the power and phase cable ends that screw onto the five outside connectors.

Thanks!
Michael
 
Protecting from what? Unless you submerge it in water, it should be fine.
But I guess you can put some silicon over it.

MJSfoto1956 said:
Can someone post a photo of your 2nd gen PowerVelocity controller mounted on their eBike or eScooter? In particular, I'm curious how you handled protecting the power and phase cable ends that screw onto the five outside connectors.

Thanks!
Michael
 
MJSfoto1956 said:
Can someone post a photo of your 2nd gen PowerVelocity controller mounted on their eBike or eScooter? In particular, I'm curious how you handled protecting the power and phase cable ends that screw onto the five outside connectors.

Thanks!
Michael

I think the bigger question is how to protect the bluetooth module...
 
Lots of options here:

1. Bundle it with the other cables in shrink wrap or something similar;
2. If you use a monocoque frame, put it inside the frame and it's well protected behind metal or plastic covers;
3. Put it inside the controller case (it fits easily 24F, 18F and even 12F cases).

I have seen someone even potting it. That may be a bit too extreme but maybe it's a necessity in harsh climates. I've never felt a need to do anything more than shrink wrap it.

n2mb said:
MJSfoto1956 said:
Can someone post a photo of your 2nd gen PowerVelocity controller mounted on their eBike or eScooter? In particular, I'm curious how you handled protecting the power and phase cable ends that screw onto the five outside connectors.

Thanks!
Michael

I think the bigger question is how to protect the bluetooth module...
 
Powervelocity.com said:
Protecting from what? Unless you submerge it in water, it should be fine.

I live in an area that is close to the ocean and I have come to discover that electrical connections exposed to the salty air around here deteriorate appreciably (I'm not even talking about going to the beach!). I also believe we here in New England are experiencing a noticeable increase in acid rain since the Trump administration gave the green light to midwest power plants to pollute at will. e.g. I have an ICE scooter/moped that has connectors that I installed recently that have quickly shown corrosion after a single rain shower.

Notwithstanding, my use case is to mount the controller externally, in keeping with the scooter/moped design of my bike and leaving the most room for future batteries. As such, I'm wondering what folks do to cover their exposed connections to the elements (and the occasional curious person). That's all.

I'm also interested in protecting the Bluetooth module as another poster mentioned.

N.B. a photo is worth a thousand words

Thanks!
Michael
 
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