Arizona Electric Bicycle Law changes (2017)

No, I couldn't make the trike a moped or motorcycle; it would require a VIN, which would require it be manufactured by a company authorized to issue one.

IIRC, here in AZ, there arent' even any provisions for electric mopeds or motorcycles in the legal definitions, they talk about displacement/etc., unless they've changed those relatively recently. Not gonna put an ICE in anything *I* ride. ;)

It would also require expensive modifications such as DOT brake systems, etc. (some of it's lighting is DOT, as are the rear tires, but most of the trike is scavenged or custom built or bicycle stuff)

I don't know what else it might need, but even if I could do the conversion itself legally (perhaps thru experimental vehicle methods?), the costs of insurance and registration would keep me off the roads.

I couldnt' use any of the bike infrastructure, whcih would be a problem as there are places I couldn't go on the trike even if it was classed as a MC/moped--it just doesn't go fast enough to be on the main roads there. If I rebuilt it to do that (more money I don't have), I don't know if it would handle well enough at those speeds to be safe (works fine at 20MPH and below).

Even if it did, most likely it couldnt' be classed as a MC and as a moped it'd be restricted about as much as a bike, but with nowhere to ride that's safe.


You might want to look at the limitations of NEVs. IIRC there's places you can't take them at all, because of a little stretch of road that has a faster speed limit, for instance. So it stays only in the neighborhood. Might not even be able to use it to go to the store because it has to go on roads with faster speed limits than it's alllowed.



If it came down to having to do that in order to ride my trikes/etc on the roads, I'd just trash the whole projects, give up bicycles entirely, and dig out the powerchair to fix up, and try not to get killed at every crosswalk between here and work, or get robbed as I creep along late at night at a few MPH coming home from work. Dogs wouldn't get to go anywhere anymore, and I wouldn't be hauling anything heavier or bigger than would fit in whatever baskets/etc I could put on the powerchair. Would take days to get the big sales worth of dog food home once or twice a year when I get them, one bag at a time (instead of a few hundred pounds in one load in 10 minutes' ride). Grocery shopping would either have to be much more frequent, or require multiple trips in one day (usually do a month's worth of shopping at a time; fills up a mounded-over big shopping cart for me and my brother, sometimes more).


If it was still possible to ride the trike on the roads at low power without doing some expensive conversion process/etc., it would not be very safe, especially if hauling any load, or the dogs, etc. Takes power to accelerate quickly, and in traffic here, if I can't do that and I'm stuck in front of that traffic at a light, there are impatient drivers that could make sure I wouldn't have to worry about it anymore. (not even counting those that pay no attention while driving, that I wouldn't be able to dodge by accelerating out of their way).


Honestly, I dont' see any reason for LE to worry about any rider that's being safe, not causing problems on the roads, and staying within the speed limits set for bikes.

If I were to ride around at the new higher speed limit of 28MPH, I would probably attract attention for that, even if I was pedalling like I do for the 20MPH I presently go. So if I ever decide to do that I'll label the trike appropriately, in case of a stop, and keep a printout of the new electric bike law sections in the cargo box.

But I don't really have a need to do more than 20MPH, which doesn't really seem to attract attention any more than I'd expect for something that looks as different as the SB Cruiser. ;)


28MPH could have some uses on the faster roads that have no bike lanes, as I'd be less of an "obstacle", but I generally avoid the roads with speed limits higher than 25-30MPH anyway unless I simply have no other roads to take. Unfortunatley my work commute is mostly roads faster than that, but there's so many direction changes and full stops on it that it isn't all that big a deal; most traffic is going a short distance on any of those roads thru Metrocenter area to get from one shop to another, etc.


Can't say it wouldnt' be *fun* to go faster than 20MPH, but it isn't really necessary most of the time.
 
If I were in your position, I'd just proceed "as if". Keep your speed at 20 mph and below and see what happens. The law is vague on what is meant by " a motor of less than 750 watts" and LEOs will be ill-equipped to make that judgement or evaluation. Remebmer, you aren't required to label anything. And the fact that you are only going 20 mph should lead the typical LEO to think of your trike as being "low powered".
 
amberwolf,
I have been thinking for a few years now , about how I can be large enough to be seen, withstand the impact of a car running into me with no or low amount of injury , and accelerate fast from a stop sign/light.


To accelerate fast , the lighter the weight the faster you can accelerate.
Perhaps there is a Aircraft Bone/Junk Yard there in the Phoenix area for light weight parts. You can rebuild your trike bit by bit according to your monthly budget.

For personal body safety I would take a lesson from / I am looking at what the F 1 and Nascar drivers have , Make a budget version of their seats by using fiberglass instead of carbon fiber . Use discarded foam and glue and shape it , find a person experienced at fiberglass lay up and vacuum bagging , and make a copy of that kind of seat.

A trailer can also be made light weight, and still haul a S.B. and Food
It is the wheels and axle that really dictate the amount of weight it can can carry.
( Aircraft Junkyard parts for that as well )
 
ScooterMan101 said:
Perhaps there is a Aircraft Bone/Junk Yard there in the Phoenix area for light weight parts. You can rebuild your trike bit by bit according to your monthly budget.
I don't have a budget. ;) Sometimes I get enough donations from helping here on ES that I can pitch some of that at bike project stuff. Or I skip on other things, or end up being lucky and ggetting extra hours at work due to callouts/etc by other people.

The only real way to lower the trike weight would be a complete rebuild from scratch. Piece by piece wouldn't be worth the effort.

I don't know of any aircraft stuff around the valley anymore; there's some other junkyards but I'd rather build with new stuff if I was going to build a completely new trike anyway, for the purposes of making it lighter and stronger. There might still be the big boneyard down towards Tucson, but I've never been there, and have no idea what they have or what they charge for it.

it's probably just all aluminum airframes/etc anyway, and I don't have a way to (or experience with) weld that up into something. I might be able to drill and rivet sheets together, but I doubt I'd have that much weight difference with a solid box of sheets making the stuff that is presently steel tubing framework. And I don't know if it'd be any stronger, which is the only other reason I'd rebuild stuff.

I've considered many times how to lighten the actual trike weight...but most of it is stuff I can't really change weight of, even if I change the way it all works.

For instance, the trike body itself, even if I made it all out of good cromoly tubing (rather than the heavier junk steel it's made out of now) would probably only lose a small percentage of weight. Let's be generous and say it loses 25% of the frame weight. I can't remember what the frame weighs by itself, but we'll go ahead and say it would save 30lbs.

The wooden parts (which are part of it's style as much as they are functional ;) ) are already about as light as they can be and still do what they need to do--the wood is easily dented as it is.

The DD hubmotors and the wheels/tires they're in, and the battery probably are half the total trike weight, at a guess.

I could probably cut the motor weight in half or even less, if I had a really strong differential annd axle and hubs for wheels to go with it, and sprockets/chain tough enough to handle the drive forces without significant wear/strain. The differential/etc would probably weigh close to what one of the motors does, though, at a guess. So that probably doesnt' significantly change the drive system weight. Lets be generous and say it saves 20lbs.

One controller's weight is insignificant, so no savings there. Battery usage could be more efficient with shiftable gearing, so might be able to halve the battery weight (1p instead of 2p), lose around 20lbs maybe.

If I did manage to reduce all those weights, it would take about 70lbs off the trike weight, which would probably be less than a quarter of the present total trike weight (not including my own 180lbs+). With my weight added, that's back down to something like 1/6 or 1/7 of the total weight. Add typical 50-100lb grocery loads to it, or a 120-150lb dog plus more weight for their supplies/cooling, and the weight savings is down to less than 1/8 of the total.

So it'd help, but not that much. Not enough to be worth a completely new build just to save weight. :)


For personal body safety I would take a lesson from / I am looking at what the F 1 and Nascar drivers have , Make a budget version of their seats by using fiberglass instead of carbon fiber . Use discarded foam and glue and shape it , find a person experienced at fiberglass lay up and vacuum bagging , and make a copy of that kind of seat.

I would not want a hard unyielding seat--the suspended mesh seats I use are much lighter, and much much more comfortable, especially on poor to bad roads. ;)

Honestly, there's no way I can imagine besides a (durable stiff springy unbendable uncrushable) enclosing spaceframe cage to make a light vehicle survivable in a collision with a much larger (SUV sized) common vehicle, in traffic. Just the difference in mass means it would probably either crush and run over the whole thing, or throw it off in the direction of travel of the larger vehicle, based on my observations of such collisions between SUVs/etc and bikes, motorcycles, and so on. Being strapped into the thing in a "safe seat" just means being unable to throw yourself clear before a collision, or freeing yourself from the twisted mangled mess afterward.





A trailer can also be made light weight, and still haul a S.B. and Food
It is the wheels and axle that really dictate the amount of weight it can can carry.
( Aircraft Junkyard parts for that as well )
The trailer is light enough for what it does.

The cargo is many times the weight of the trailer, so taking a few pounds off the trailer wouldn't make a significant difference to how much power it takes to quickly accelerate it. Let's be skeptical and call it 50lbs for the trailer as it presently is, and say I have both the dogs on it; that's 270lbs (at least) of just dog. So more than 5 times as much dog weight as trailer weight. Doesn't include the heavy (40-50lbs) of cooling gel mats and ice packs and water and stuff, or the same or more weight of air conditioner/battery/inverter that will be on the new trailer version, to keep them cool in the heat for those rare times I *have* to take them somewhere when it's hot.

The piano I hauled (possibly the heaviest item so far) is several hundred pounds, at least. Way more than the trailer weight.

Even last year's dog food haul was around 400lbs on the trailer itself (rest on the trike), which is about 8 times the trailer weight.
 
wturber said:
If I were in your position, I'd just proceed "as if". Keep your speed at 20 mph and below and see what happens.

That's the present plan...except that I probably will come up with a nameplate for the trike, jjust in case. :)
 
amberwolf said:
wturber said:
If I were in your position, I'd just proceed "as if". Keep your speed at 20 mph and below and see what happens.

That's the present plan...except that I probably will come up with a nameplate for the trike, jjust in case. :)

If you mean something that shows specs wattage etc., I wouldn't put anything on it that you couldn't make a good argument to support. In other words, don't put anything on there that is demonstrably untrue or that you wouldn't be willing to stand by in court. For instance, I'm going to label my motor 702 watts. My justification is that the controller is a nominal 13 amp controller and I'm running 54 volts through it. I could also say its 624 watts given that 54 volts represents the fully charged state of a nominally 48 volt system. I could discount all of these by not rating according to input power, but by output power. Assuming 80% loss, that would put me at 562 watts and 499 watts respectively. The court may very well disagree and want to go by the maximum controller amps (26A in this case), the actual batter draw (around 1000 watts) or something else. And if that means I lose an argument in court, fine. What I haven't done is set myself up to be accused of lying to the court or police. We simply disagree on how to interpret a vague law.

There are other possible approaches such as acting ignorant of the recent law changes. Maybe the LEO you are dealing with has no clue that there's been a change. You don't have to tell him that you know. "Well officer, when I checked a month ago, this was a legal e-bike. Look here. Here's the statute that I printed up two weeks ago." :^)

But if you do that, you'll want a plan B in case the LEO is up on the recent changes. "Oh I heard that there was a change proposed and that it would establish classes like they have in California. I'm pretty sure that under that system I'd be Class 1 (or whatever). But I built this myself, so there's no labeling. I definitely never go over 20 mph though. That's for sure."

I've ridden my bike quite illegally for over a year now and was never hassled and suspect I might never be stopped by a LEO regarding my ebike. But your trike is more unusual than my bike and it attracts more attention.

I've found a comment by an electrical engineer who claims that DC motor power rating is the power of the motor at its maximum efficiency - though I haven't found much support elsewhere for that.

Anyway, there's a fair bit of ambiguity about how to rate the power of an electric motor. I say, "Interpret to your advantage."
 
Expect the escoot and ebike rental companies to raise visibility to get more ebike regs.
Dallas just banned ALL MOTORIZED vehicles from parks and trails.
Poorly worded law, as is the fashion.
mobility scooters were not excluded, not intentionally.
Personal injury lawyers are also waking up, and as homeowners insurance often excludes motorized vehicles
their searches are going to further push this issue, increasing legislation and the personal liability for injury and theft.
 
wturber said:
If you mean something that shows specs wattage etc., I wouldn't put anything on it that you couldn't make a good argument to support. In other words, don't put anything on there that is demonstrably untrue or that you wouldn't be willing to stand by in court. For instance, I'm going to label my motor 702 watts. My justification is that the controller is a nominal 13 amp controller and I'm running 54 volts through it. I could also say its 624 watts given that 54 volts represents the fully charged state of a nominally 48 volt system. I could discount all of these by not rating according to input power, but by output power. Assuming 80% loss, that would put me at 562 watts and 499 watts respectively. The court may very well disagree and want to go by the maximum controller amps (26A in this case), the actual batter draw (around 1000 watts) or something else. And if that means I lose an argument in court, fine. What I haven't done is set myself up to be accused of lying to the court or police. We simply disagree on how to interpret a vague law.
FYI, Optibike has claimed that that number is mechanical output power at a given speed - and apparently (at least in CO) got agreement from the state government to label them that way, which in their case is often 750 watts. Electrical power is, of course, much higher.

If an ebiker has access to a dyno (do they even make bike dynos?) that would seem to be both a useful and defensible way to measure power.
 
billvon said:
wturber said:
If you mean something that shows specs wattage etc., I wouldn't put anything on it that you couldn't make a good argument to support. In other words, don't put anything on there that is demonstrably untrue or that you wouldn't be willing to stand by in court. For instance, I'm going to label my motor 702 watts. My justification is that the controller is a nominal 13 amp controller and I'm running 54 volts through it. I could also say its 624 watts given that 54 volts represents the fully charged state of a nominally 48 volt system. I could discount all of these by not rating according to input power, but by output power. Assuming 80% loss, that would put me at 562 watts and 499 watts respectively. The court may very well disagree and want to go by the maximum controller amps (26A in this case), the actual batter draw (around 1000 watts) or something else. And if that means I lose an argument in court, fine. What I haven't done is set myself up to be accused of lying to the court or police. We simply disagree on how to interpret a vague law.
FYI, Optibike has claimed that that number is mechanical output power at a given speed - and apparently (at least in CO) got agreement from the state government to label them that way, which in their case is often 750 watts. Electrical power is, of course, much higher.

If an ebiker has access to a dyno (do they even make bike dynos?) that would seem to be both a useful and defensible way to measure power.

Thats a reasonable approach and interpretation and good business for Optibike to get a sign-off on their interpretation. But it doesn't necessarily reflect what legislation says.

C.R.S. § 42-4- 1412
(28.5) “Electrical assisted bicycle” means a vehicle having two or three wheels,
fully operable pedals, and an electric motor not exceeding seven hundred
fifty watts of power. "


750 watts of what? Peak output? Continuous output rating? Consumption?

Peak output is, I guess, a nice, safe, "in between" interpretation. That's probably where I'm heading for the sticker I'll make for my home-built. Such a sticker isn't required by law, but I think it may simplify things if it ever comes up with a LEO.
 
I am tempted here to link to the YT video of Grin Tech's owner Justin interview with Electric Bike Review at about the 12:00 mark.

Its interesting to me how the automobile laws do not confine a countries vehicles horse power. However in the ebike world, its a great legal defense angle, and any authority on the street, really wouldn't have a clue or the technical anything to do anything other then write you a ticket to fatten the government coffers just so they can waste the money away. It boils down to how much is one's time worth, whether they are "sticking out" by speeding, doing wheelies, blowing stop signs or red lights, no headlight or rear light night time riding etc etc etc.....

or by not doing those things and blending in, not pissing your fellow pedestrians or their pets off.

How much effort has an "E-Bike Law Researchers" gone through to look up the legal standing of vehicle traffic laws when it comes to a "country stop" aka not stopping completely for a stop sign or red light, tail gating or the distance that is considered tail gating, unsafe lane changes (meaning lane changes that are done anywhere in an intersection, or cross walk, or school/playground zone), passing a bus with its flashing lights on, or the buses stop sign flipped out, not waiting for pedestrian to safely cross, not giving cyclists enough room, distracted driving (any and all cell phone use, smoking, eating, dog/cat on the drivers lap or passenger lap), broken windshield impairing drivers view of the entire road, speeding (yes even 1mph over is considered speeding, but the accuracy rate of the Fuzz's detectors is probably 5%). The list goes on and on but even the forum "E-Bike Law Researchers" commit some/most or all those crimes on a regular basis or even daily basis when they drive their vehicle, yet dont do nothing about it, or they dont care until they get pinched by the Fuzz.

Rant over

HOWEVER

Knowing what the law states, gives any cyclists a hugely immense advantage.

The point, yeah everyone breaks the law. Do you want to drastically stick out or be courteous and polite yet have enough power to get up that steep hill with your 500lbs of groceries on your mobility device called an electric bicycle.

Fuckit I am going to rant on a bit more. Gotta loosen up my fingers to type up a report.

More to the point directly above on "The point, yeah" you could have an obvious ebike with wires sticking out, batteries duct taped and be courteous, polite, safe rider and never have an issue, there is a chance the brown-nosed pig that is short on his ticket writing quota may write you up. If your Karma is positive and you are nice there is a good chance he will let you slide on major infractions if your license is under suspension and are banned from operating any motor vehicle on public land which includes ebikes, riding lawn mowers, boats, trains, planes, heli's anything. Same scenerio as above, but hidden motor, hidden battery, hidden controller, same shit applies, you are a gentleman rider, safe, courteous, sure you may slow down look everywhere and be cool 99% of the time until its night time and your light burns out. Warning, maybe. Short on quota means ticket. Fight it? depends!

Be an a-hole, loser, uncourteous prick, doing wheelies, speeding past children and their dog, giving everyone the stink eye and a middle finger or two, have full with the book being thrown at chooo.
 
One of the issues here is Amberwolf's situation with the recent law change. His e-bike draws attention. Big tricycles that can carry St. Bernard dogs and move pianos tend to do that. If I were Amberwolf, I might carry around a copy of the old law and act like that was the law I understood if I was ever hassled. That might be a good scheme once or twice.

But yes, the generally safe advice is to blend in and look like a bicycle. But for some people that want to ride at 30+ mph most of the time, that just isn't a great option.
 
markz said:
I am tempted here to link to the YT video of Grin Tech's owner Justin interview with Electric Bike Review at about the 12:00 mark.

Or folks can read this ...

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html
 
billvon said:
(do they even make bike dynos?)
Put a card in the spokes and then use a sound editing program to map distance/time. Plug weight into the equation and there's your dyno.
 
onemorejoltwarden said:
Dallas just banned ALL MOTORIZED vehicles from parks and trails.

Good thing bicycles are usually specifically defined as NOT vehicles. ;)
 
LEO not really the problem , as I mentioned
Civil law takes over / leads the way when this kind of thing happens
See how your insurance company and the PI lawyers harass you if there is a loss or injury

Coverage for theft , in policies I have been offered here in Texas are considering them either motorized or recreational vehicles and excluding them from basic homeowners policy for liability, theft and damage.
If Some nit steps in front of me , or more frequently a dog runs in front of me and it could be a real problem.

Multiple bikes at 300$ a year (essentially Motor cycle rate) makes this something almost no one will have

The PI attorneys are in a lather about this issue which has been stimulated by the e-scooters with increasing injuries and deaths,
could be painful
 
Yes, we have to be considering personal injury insurance. I just became aware of E-Bike insurance for theft, accident, personal injury, etc. see ; https://velosurance.com/
 
onemorejoltwarden said:
Expect the escoot and ebike rental companies to raise visibility to get more ebike regs.
Dallas just banned ALL MOTORIZED vehicles from parks and trails.
Poorly worded law, as is the fashion.
mobility scooters were not excluded, not intentionally.

Glad I moved from McKinney to AZ a few years ago. Riding White Rock Lake, it was crystal clear the most hazardous electronic aids are the earbuds worn by the pedestrians. Then again, I didn't need a boost in the flatlands like I do in the mountains.
 
amberwolf said:
The only real way to lower the trike weight would be a complete rebuild from scratch. Piece by piece wouldn't be worth the effort.

Not even close to cost effective to design and build a one-off e-trike, and the market isn't there for volume production just yet.

Off & on between design contracts I've been working through various e-stealth tadpole designs in SolidWorks over the last 3 years, but its highly unlikely I'll actually build any. When I sold my business a few years ago, that included the fab equipment needed. (For that matter the only reason I do contract work is because I really enjoy product design).

The new AZ laws haven't been an issue for us so far, but we don't ride in ways that draw attention, other than climbing hills at speeds strong roadies are capable of.
 
Back
Top