wturber
1 MW
Well, any steel that is 3/16" or thicker. I run about half the power you run and used 1/4" steel (though my dropouts are aluminum alloy, not steel). A little over-engineering in this area is probably not a bad thing.
Loving the ebike life but wishing for a full suspension bike...
- Thread starter Philaphlous
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Philaphlous
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Anyone else's rear derailleur run against the hub motor in the highest gear? Mine barely runs but you can definitely hear it and it's already created a tiny groove in the casing of the hub motor.. I think I'm going to grind down the bolt that's causing it to hit the motor...that should fix it..just surprising it would do that with a 7 speed cassette....
I ordered some equipment to change out my cable housings. The front housings are way too long and the cables are all over the place so I definitely need to fix that. It's so bad it's holding back shifting down so it doesn't always go into the gear which is a bother...
I ordered some equipment to change out my cable housings. The front housings are way too long and the cables are all over the place so I definitely need to fix that. It's so bad it's holding back shifting down so it doesn't always go into the gear which is a bother...
Do you mean _lowest_ gear (largest cog?) Usually the highest gear is the farthest from the hub motor.Philaphlous said:
On my first ebike I had that problem, but I just ignored it until they sort of wore each other away. (I wasn't using low gear much anyway.)
MadRhino
100 GW
Just put a spacer ring before the freewheel.
Chalo
100 TW
Philaphlous said:
As MadRhino says, put a spacer behind the freewheel to move it outward a little bit. Also, use the limit screws correctly so the derailleur doesn't do that. Finally, verify that the derailleur hanger is straight and parallel to the plane of the wheel. Bike shops have a tool for this.
If you allowed your derailleur to push into a normal spoked wheel, you could already have been in the market for a new derailleur, wheel, and frame.
Philaphlous
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Fixed it. I just needed to file down the bolt that is connected through the tension sprocket on the derailleur. Once I did that no more rubbing on the hub motor. I can cleanly shift down to the lowest gear no problem.
I had no idea shortening the cable housings was that easy. I thought the caps on the ends were crimped and I was going to have to order new ones...well I did order new ones then discovered I didn't need them. Shifting and braking feels like butter now. So simple. I think I cut off 8" from both brake housings and like 4" from the shifter housing... Ive got a real stem spacer coming so I'll be able to use that instead of the ones I have now and cut the stem down to match the height of the bars now. I'd say this next mod is mostly astetics but it'll make a big difference.
I had no idea shortening the cable housings was that easy. I thought the caps on the ends were crimped and I was going to have to order new ones...well I did order new ones then discovered I didn't need them. Shifting and braking feels like butter now. So simple. I think I cut off 8" from both brake housings and like 4" from the shifter housing... Ive got a real stem spacer coming so I'll be able to use that instead of the ones I have now and cut the stem down to match the height of the bars now. I'd say this next mod is mostly astetics but it'll make a big difference.
markz
100 TW
8) Who really pedals anyhow :lol:
8) What are these derailleur's and shifters you speak of :lol:
On a serious note, I really do need to get on with installing those hardly seen items. I sometimes do run outta juice so pedalling would help out.
Indeed I am
Which reminds me of what Chalo stated in another thread, that part is easily solved but when I read that, I thought: Yes its easy to move to a sunny climate but the catch is can we do it with the same job security and the same pay rate. I doubt that for the HQ's of the oil & gas biz, locales in Florida or California, even British Columbia or Van Isle are just not going to happen. Other jobs sure, you can live anywhere. Offshore drilling workers for example get a long time off duty.
8) What are these derailleur's and shifters you speak of :lol:
On a serious note, I really do need to get on with installing those hardly seen items. I sometimes do run outta juice so pedalling would help out.
Indeed I am
but am dreading cold and snow.
Which reminds me of what Chalo stated in another thread, that part is easily solved but when I read that, I thought: Yes its easy to move to a sunny climate but the catch is can we do it with the same job security and the same pay rate. I doubt that for the HQ's of the oil & gas biz, locales in Florida or California, even British Columbia or Van Isle are just not going to happen. Other jobs sure, you can live anywhere. Offshore drilling workers for example get a long time off duty.
Philaphlous
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Good grief! 3rd flat. This time I couldn't have avoided it. Got about a 1-1/2" rusty nail right in the center of my rear tire. I have a patch kit and heavy duty inner tube which I think will give me a slightly better ride since it's on the rear tire now. Used my patch kit and some Duct tape on the actual tire to patch the hole and ensure it stays closed and doesn't develop a bubble. I think it's time for me to start shopping for some winter tires.... No matter what tire I would have had on my bike it probably wouldn't have protected me from that nail.
Took forever to get the tire off because the hub motor and wires... Ive got so much Duct tape and zip ties that it's so secure in the frame. But!!! One good thing that came out of this is I was able to closely inspect my dropouts and I'm happy to report that there's no wear whatsoever on them! I picked up a steel bar lastnight to create a torque arm but that'll be in the works.
I almost wonder if I should experiment with tubeless tires...
Took forever to get the tire off because the hub motor and wires... Ive got so much Duct tape and zip ties that it's so secure in the frame. But!!! One good thing that came out of this is I was able to closely inspect my dropouts and I'm happy to report that there's no wear whatsoever on them! I picked up a steel bar lastnight to create a torque arm but that'll be in the works.
I almost wonder if I should experiment with tubeless tires...
wturber
1 MW
As seems to generally be the case, back tires get more punctures than front ones. Presumably because the front kicks up debris like nails that would generally have their pointy bits pointed sideways or down. But once tumbled by the front tire, the odds increase that the debris might encounter the rear tire with their pointy bits pointing upward or near upward.
When changing a flat, I typically flip my bike upside down so it rests on the seat and handlebars as a tripod base. For years, I've just reached over the top tube, grabbed the downtube and and a seat or chainstay, and flipped the bike. But with my 65 lb, rear end heavy e-bike, that is very awkward. I now turn the bike upside down by simply pulling up on the front handle bars and walking the bike backwards as though I've popped a wheelie and have flipped entirely backwards. This is much easier to control.
When changing a flat, I typically flip my bike upside down so it rests on the seat and handlebars as a tripod base. For years, I've just reached over the top tube, grabbed the downtube and and a seat or chainstay, and flipped the bike. But with my 65 lb, rear end heavy e-bike, that is very awkward. I now turn the bike upside down by simply pulling up on the front handle bars and walking the bike backwards as though I've popped a wheelie and have flipped entirely backwards. This is much easier to control.
Chalo
100 TW
Philaphlous said:
Tubeless tires have to come off every couple of months because their sealant turns into poutine over time. Think of it as having to deal with the tires just as often as if you were getting a lot of flats, but you get to pick the time and place more often. Tubeless is also much messier than using tubes, even if the tubes have sealant/poutine in them.
Philaphlous
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Yea. I do the wheelie method for flipping my bike over. It's still difficult with all the zip ties and Duct tape on the wires to pull the motor off. My future upgrades with make that easier. Tire is holding up great now!
I got the new spacers for the handlebars. Much better! Now I just need to cut off the excess steerer tube at the top to make it flush with the stem.
I ended up switching to a 1/4" stainless steel bolt for my seatpost instead of the easy stealable quick release. That saved me from having to keep a cable lock on the frame to the seat so that saved some weight.
I've got a new waterproof 5 pin signal cable coming for the hall sensor wires and a mt60 connector for the phase wires. My goal is to waterproof as best I can all the connections to get my bike ready for the fall/winter/spring season. I've got a antirust chain so that'll hopefully help!
I got the new spacers for the handlebars. Much better! Now I just need to cut off the excess steerer tube at the top to make it flush with the stem.
I ended up switching to a 1/4" stainless steel bolt for my seatpost instead of the easy stealable quick release. That saved me from having to keep a cable lock on the frame to the seat so that saved some weight.
I've got a new waterproof 5 pin signal cable coming for the hall sensor wires and a mt60 connector for the phase wires. My goal is to waterproof as best I can all the connections to get my bike ready for the fall/winter/spring season. I've got a antirust chain so that'll hopefully help!
t_tberg
100 W
I cut the cables and connect them on the inside of the controller, just cut the wires and pull them into the controller then solder up new long multiconductor wires inside the controller for whatever connections you were using. Poke the new wires through the silicon gasket and run them to length. The only connections outside the controller are for power and the motor, so it can be easily removed. I replace the phase connectors with bullet connectors, I also stagger the bullets to reduce the chance of a short. Finally I cover the gasket with silicon sealant and then cover the wires with computer cable expandable sleeves. I also open up the throttle and switches to glob some dielectric grease in there. Ultimately, you end up with a highly water resistant set up without the "rats nest". You won't be able to replace components as easily but the components won't fail at the connectors if there aren't any exposed connectors. And it looks discreet and professional (at least I think so)
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novaraptor
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So, now you have the speed solution. I notice that you have the original seat. Generally, they can be a real pain in the ass..(intended). Might try a low cost Cloud 9, or if you can, try a few from other riders. Also, check out some of the other seat stem suspension systems. Things always change, and everything is a compromise, but it's possible to find a better rear suspension solution..
Shiny side up,
Novaraptor
Shiny side up,
Novaraptor
Philaphlous
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Thanks for the advice on the seat. It is kinda annoying as its quite easy to slide back and forth I my dress pants...that just sounds weird... Anyway.
I need new pedals and fenders...im thinking the fenders need to come first. The pedals are awful and actually squishy so I know they need replaced. Plus one is partly broken off from my fall last year..
So I'm looking for decent fenders that'll accommodate my wide tires. I think they're around 2.2" total width even though you buy them and they're speced at 1.95". I've been looking on amazon and they all seem to be around $35-45.
Got a decent video of my commute in this am. Will post it tonight.
I need new pedals and fenders...im thinking the fenders need to come first. The pedals are awful and actually squishy so I know they need replaced. Plus one is partly broken off from my fall last year..
So I'm looking for decent fenders that'll accommodate my wide tires. I think they're around 2.2" total width even though you buy them and they're speced at 1.95". I've been looking on amazon and they all seem to be around $35-45.
Got a decent video of my commute in this am. Will post it tonight.
markz
100 TW
I wouldnt want to experiment with tubeless. I will read how wonderful they are then be intrigued, then read Chalo's comments and be fine with tubes. Even though I have been going through cases and cases of tubes. I have purchased some "Thorn Proof" tubes that I will try out, they are much much heavier & bulkier then the normal mtb tubes I am used to. I got a good deal on some old new stock, but I also purchased brand new ones on Amazon, DiamondBack ones.
The ultimate would be
Thorn Proof Tubes
Schwalbe Marathon Plus
Tire Liners - Or an old tire or tube layed in properly.
The ultimate would be
Thorn Proof Tubes
Schwalbe Marathon Plus
Tire Liners - Or an old tire or tube layed in properly.
Chalo said:
Ianhill
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I wouldn't go tubeless unless the rim is designed to without sealant, there should be a raised lip on the outer of the rim like a cars alloy cross section, the tyre bead should make a poping noise when aired up on to the rim, if the rim is not suitable use a tube the cowboy hacks are pointless specially with a high power ebike the tyre will not hold to the rim and spin on the rim and deflate if your lucky to get it to hold air at all granted a tubed tyre can move and brake a valve too but its easyier to prep the tube and tyre so theres no grease vs a gunked up tubeless.
My scooter rims are tubeless and the balancing is better and theres a few grams init at most, my daily driver ebike and peddle bike both use tubes for reliability and i have no issue with moving tubes or tyres but im not really at crazy power levels either 36v 40amp battery really barely gets the mxus awake speed wise but on the torque side it still climbs like an a2b metro beast with the 20 inch wheel.
My scooter rims are tubeless and the balancing is better and theres a few grams init at most, my daily driver ebike and peddle bike both use tubes for reliability and i have no issue with moving tubes or tyres but im not really at crazy power levels either 36v 40amp battery really barely gets the mxus awake speed wise but on the torque side it still climbs like an a2b metro beast with the 20 inch wheel.
markz
100 TW
Which mxus motor you rocking?
I am at 36V (10S) with mxus 3kw, its alright, but I am using more discharge current to get same wattage of a higher volted battery.
I will be converting to 15S for ease of converting, easily change my LVC to whatever I want.
20" wheels are the key to torque
I got a generic controller, have no clue what the amps are. I am going to pony up for a good controller, sinewave, adjustable lvc, high amps. Ideal is the Adaptto, but may go Kelly or the other one that the name escapes me at the moment, starts with an S.
I am at 36V (10S) with mxus 3kw, its alright, but I am using more discharge current to get same wattage of a higher volted battery.
I will be converting to 15S for ease of converting, easily change my LVC to whatever I want.
20" wheels are the key to torque
I got a generic controller, have no clue what the amps are. I am going to pony up for a good controller, sinewave, adjustable lvc, high amps. Ideal is the Adaptto, but may go Kelly or the other one that the name escapes me at the moment, starts with an S.
Ianhill said:
Philaphlous
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Still pulling 2200-2300w no issues! I go such short distances and throttle so quickly to accelerate the battery is barely getting warm. Controller is surviving our monsoon season. I got a new waterproof connector for the hall sensors since that is the most water prone connector. Looking forward to installing that and heat shrinking the hall sensors and phase wires together to 1 make the bike look better but also add some added safety to the wires.
Did my first ride in the dark this am. Dang! Love it! It's awesome having my convoy c8 that's so bright and all the city lights in early morning. Fewer cars out too so that makes my ride in easy.
I finallyyyyyy got some flat black spray paint! First up is the fork! Changing the ugly grey/tan color to flat black... Will eventually get to the rest of the bike..there's some rust building under the bottom or the tubes near the rear tire so I know I need to repaint it no matter what. Weekend projects!
Did my first ride in the dark this am. Dang! Love it! It's awesome having my convoy c8 that's so bright and all the city lights in early morning. Fewer cars out too so that makes my ride in easy.
I finallyyyyyy got some flat black spray paint! First up is the fork! Changing the ugly grey/tan color to flat black... Will eventually get to the rest of the bike..there's some rust building under the bottom or the tubes near the rear tire so I know I need to repaint it no matter what. Weekend projects!
Philaphlous
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Chinese clone.. I believe either 28mm or 30mm stator. Came with the 1000w hub kit. Has 12 awg phase wires. I'm running 2300w bursts out of it. Mostly riding around 600-1000w continuous. Motor runs great so far!
Philaphlous
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I'm pretty sure any gear drive would blow up at 2300w...especially ones that are high torque...and you'd probably flip your bike. It's a hub no gear motor. It's a little sluggish at the start but once you get Goin it's fasttttt.
hey im from the nova area man. good to see some locals up in here. I was in the same position you were about the full suspension frame I happen to come across a really good Rocky Mountain full suspension frame that fit my downtube battery pack perfectly as far as strength of an aluminum frame I am super hard on my bikes I used to ride freestyle BMX and I thrashed the heck out of my bikes now doing big drops jumping stuff smacking trees and my dropouts are all good bro no cracks or anything I do recommend a torque arm though. my downhill ebike setup is pushing around 2500watts on 26in wheel and my rear stays are carbon fiber and so far so good everything holds up really well. I will tell you that those Walmart bikes do not fit a hailong 3 very well I suggest shopping around on eBay like I did and get a great package deal. look me up on instagram. (bigwoodnick) is my sn maybe we can link up and shredd!!
