E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
Pinotman said:Hi Guys.... not meaning to hijack the forum on this one... but appreciate some help from your experience..
So the attached pic shows that I 'cooked' my Stealth Fighter (#81) with its original Crystalyte motor today. I need some advice.
cooked 2.JPG
I am running a 18650 72 volt+ battery Kelly KLS7218 controller setup with amps set at around 55amps. This setup had some nice pull BTW 10-40Mph and would top out at around 50Ph... I obviously need a new motor now that can cope with the increased amps and Volts from the stock set up.
I am running original Fighter MTB rims and Duro 24x3 type tyres. I ride predominantly off road on steep and rocky hard terrain. I ride this bike and all my bikes very hard..... WOT is normal for me... and i ride the Fighters i have... like Moto bikes when i can..
My two questions are:
1. Its been suggested to me professionally by my local Ebike motor expert that I simply purchase a QS205 and lace that into my existing MTB rim. Now i know that motor is very solid and I think very heavy ( too heavy) as an option and while im sure it will handle the heat that my 72V+ system puts out I think the weight is heaps more than the original Fighter motor ( maybe double?) and I'm not sure it would be good for the unsprung mass on the back wheel of the bike for the off road riding that i do... im also not sure that lacing that motor into the original MTB type rim rather than a Moto type rim would last or be that smart? I'm already around 6.2 foot and 95kgs in weight. Is this bad advice I'm getting to consider this... or I'm being paranoid here? im sure the QS205 has benefits but better suited on road im sure..
2. If you guys had my setup on this early model Fighter and the option to fit best motor ( with an open cheque book) for best low torque and high power off road riding.. what MOTOR would you choose/advise? I want to ride at max 45mph top speed (occasionally as but low down torque and maneuverability off road is more important than top end to me...
I have read a lot of this forum and all the Stealth Owners posts and attempted to disseminate the info .. .. but for for newbie like me on E-bikes with a predominant Moto background i would really appreciate your thoughts/advice here.. im not sure a QS 205 is the best option... I know some of you have stuck with Stealth Factory option.. others have gone sideways.... im sure other options like a more recent Crystalyte, Leaf, MXUS, or even Mac geared motors may work better.. what can you suggest in your experience?
thanks Nic.
Wow, the original H3540, surprised it lasted as long as it did. The answer you seek is easy, you want a Crystalyte H4080 with a 162mm axle. I lost my connection with US Crystalyte so I am unable to order motors at the moment. I would even recommend the new H55100, but with the amount of current you are flowing, its complete overkill. Get the newH4080, I think Stealth may be able to sell you one. Here is the link to the motors. http://crystalyte.com/
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:
I have it all wrong, the streamers are what get the chicks, its got to be the streamers.
Rix, thanks for the heads up here. I have contacted Stealth to ask if they will indeed sell me a H4080 with 162mm Front axle drop outs. I see that i can get hold of Crown TC80 motor with the right 162mm axle but the H4080 will do a better job you think?
Cheers Nic
Cheers Nic
Rix
100 TW
Pinotman said:
The TC80 and TC4080 crown motors were better than the H4080....up until about 18-24 months ago. What gave the TC series the edge was the aluminum stater armature. Now that the H40 series also has an aluminum armature, I suspect they are really close to the same when it comes to performance. Its possible the TC40 series has a bit more copper than the H40, but I am not sure any more. Back when the H series motors came with a stamped steel stater armature, the TC series had way more copper fill and was better then. Without having the newest generation of the H40 series, I am only guessing here. Either way, I don't think you can go wrong with the H40, I loved the older H40 motor and the new one is improved on that.
Pinotman said:Hi Guys.... not meaning to hijack the forum on this one... but appreciate some help from your experience..
So the attached pic shows that I 'cooked' my Stealth Fighter (#81) with its original Crystalyte motor today. I need some advice.
cooked 2.JPG
I am running a 18650 72 volt+ battery Kelly KLS7218 controller setup with amps set at around 55amps. This setup had some nice pull BTW 10-40Mph and would top out at around 50Ph... I obviously need a new motor now that can cope with the increased amps and Volts from the stock set up.
I am running original Fighter MTB rims and Duro 24x3 type tyres. I ride predominantly off road on steep and rocky hard terrain. I ride this bike and all my bikes very hard..... WOT is normal for me... and i ride the Fighters i have... like Moto bikes when i can..
My two questions are:
1. Its been suggested to me professionally by my local Ebike motor expert that I simply purchase a QS205 and lace that into my existing MTB rim. Now i know that motor is very solid and I think very heavy ( too heavy) as an option and while im sure it will handle the heat that my 72V+ system puts out I think the weight is heaps more than the original Fighter motor ( maybe double?) and I'm not sure it would be good for the unsprung mass on the back wheel of the bike for the off road riding that i do... im also not sure that lacing that motor into the original MTB type rim rather than a Moto type rim would last or be that smart? I'm already around 6.2 foot and 95kgs in weight. Is this bad advice I'm getting to consider this... or I'm being paranoid here? im sure the QS205 has benefits but better suited on road im sure..
2. If you guys had my setup on this early model Fighter and the option to fit best motor ( with an open cheque book) for best low torque and high power off road riding.. what MOTOR would you choose/advise? I want to ride at max 45mph top speed (occasionally as but low down torque and maneuverability off road is more important than top end to me...
I have read a lot of this forum and all the Stealth Owners posts and attempted to disseminate the info .. .. but for for newbie like me on E-bikes with a predominant Moto background i would really appreciate your thoughts/advice here.. im not sure a QS 205 is the best option... I know some of you have stuck with Stealth Factory option.. others have gone sideways.... im sure other options like a more recent Crystalyte, Leaf, MXUS, or even Mac geared motors may work better.. what can you suggest in your experience?
thanks Nic.
Hi Nic
My girlfriends Fighter is super quick , and has been ridden daily for nearly 12 months specs are
- 96v 23s 16 ah lipo powered multistar
- Powervelocity 24 fet sinwave 150A controller with bluetooth dash
- stock motor , which doesnt even get warm after thrashing it
-White brothers 200mm forks
-
Attachments
Rix, thanks for advice. i spoke with Stealth today as they didn't have any H80 series in stock to sell me and only H65's, i bought the new Bomber UFO motor which they will lace straight into a wheel for me and sell me the new harness for the controller needed with this motor so should be plug and play. I'm excited about this new motor ( although its 2 k'gs heavier than the new H80 motor- so it weighs 10kgs) I think it should mean with running Ferro Fluid and Hub Sinks ( that i do run) - im no chance to smoke this one. I guess my lowly 55Amps can come up a bit and the bikes low down torque off road and the moderate top end speed i want ( say 85kph) should both be achievable i hope with this motor.. ( rather than having to pick a wind speed with the H motors) does anyone else you know have one of these UFO motors running in a fighter? I'd like to know if they do?? . Im running a Kelly controller that will run up to 220Amps i believe , but im not heading anywhere near than high just yet... may try around 75 Amps to start and see how the bike feels.
Trelos, sounds like a nice quick Fighter your Girlfriend has there on 96v Lipo.. I had one of the original H3540 motors on Fighter #81.. not sure when you stay 'the stock motor does not get warm' if you are talking about a later model Fighter ( hard to tell from the pics but that bike has a nice clean look in grey) with a newer H4080 motor. I have another Fighter a Grey Camo colored bike that is the same early model #105 ( as Fighter #81 that cooked motor) that currently runs on original 48volt battery that is lagging and getting tired... I will be looking to do something with the setup but I would like to keep the weight down as my 9 year old son rides it a bit.. . ( CDs ( Blake's) leaf setup looks pretty grouse for the weight of that motor and I may follow his motor setup etc on this bike - G'day to CD if you read this ) Hey I'm not sure if anyone has younger kids who ride Stealth bikes ( not too many 9 year olds i guess?) but my son is pretty proficient at riding it and comes on some rides in the bush with me ( his 15 old year brother for some reason hates motor bikes and powered bicycles so he wont ride it which is strange for a teenager - I know if I had been that age and had the opportunity... it would have let me at it!! The stand over height of the Fighter bike is a little too tall for my 9 year old at present but he sits up on the metal frame flange on top of the back spring on a home made sponge wrapped around the frame and starts and stops that way using the throttle most of the time to ride .. he loves it and the 48volt speed is getting almost too pedestrian for him now..
Trelos, sounds like a nice quick Fighter your Girlfriend has there on 96v Lipo.. I had one of the original H3540 motors on Fighter #81.. not sure when you stay 'the stock motor does not get warm' if you are talking about a later model Fighter ( hard to tell from the pics but that bike has a nice clean look in grey) with a newer H4080 motor. I have another Fighter a Grey Camo colored bike that is the same early model #105 ( as Fighter #81 that cooked motor) that currently runs on original 48volt battery that is lagging and getting tired... I will be looking to do something with the setup but I would like to keep the weight down as my 9 year old son rides it a bit.. . ( CDs ( Blake's) leaf setup looks pretty grouse for the weight of that motor and I may follow his motor setup etc on this bike - G'day to CD if you read this ) Hey I'm not sure if anyone has younger kids who ride Stealth bikes ( not too many 9 year olds i guess?) but my son is pretty proficient at riding it and comes on some rides in the bush with me ( his 15 old year brother for some reason hates motor bikes and powered bicycles so he wont ride it which is strange for a teenager - I know if I had been that age and had the opportunity... it would have let me at it!! The stand over height of the Fighter bike is a little too tall for my 9 year old at present but he sits up on the metal frame flange on top of the back spring on a home made sponge wrapped around the frame and starts and stops that way using the throttle most of the time to ride .. he loves it and the 48volt speed is getting almost too pedestrian for him now..
Rix
100 TW
Pinotman said:
Yah, you wont need to run any FF or hubsinks on that motor with the current you are pushing. But if you do, it wont hurt. Post up a pic or vid if you can, would like to see your Fighter in action.
@Trellos, very nice Fighter amigo. Looks to be the goods.
OHHH BOY.... someone got a new toy......
mmm no frothy fluids for me anymore!!.... were talkin Americano not Cappuccino!!!...... Olympic pool not 1960's ski cabin hot-tub!!!!.. I digress.
Anyway this is the Avalanche kit for the 888 Marzochi.
A Brief History...
I bought the 888's knowing that eventually I was going to get this kit. So I got the CR which is the least expensive 888 because the internals get yanked anyway. When I 1st bought it I wound up sending it back due to a crazy amount stiction which wound up being a manufacturing issue with the lower crown unit covered under warranty. I also added the 6.5 weight (HD) spring to it which allowed me to properly set sag. I have taken the fork apart a few times to change fluid, seals etc. and was not impressed to say the least. Here is a pic from Avalanche website of the stock internals..
I have never been impressed by MTB suspension usually the internals are cheap and wear out quiclky much like an Iphone
... but at least this was better than the DNM forks that came with the bike. They handled the square edge high speed stuff better than the DNM. but still It was no where near dialed in dirtbike suspension which is where my point of reference is.
In comes Avalanche....
I spoke with Craig for a bit and a few weeks later a box arrived at my door with goodies in it.
So out with the stock guts and in with the avalanche. What this kit does is convert the fork to an open bath setup with high quality custom metal components that are re-buildable and can be easily re-valved. Don't let the open bath throw you off the range is pretty damn epic. Also you can add a "Floating Valving Assisted Threshold/High Speed Blow-off System" that allows a firmer feel while still being plush on high speed square edge trails if you like a firmer feel. He provides a setup chart and if you so choose specs for different shim stacks depending on riding style or preference.
Quick ride report / Result:
When I first assembled the unit and bled the unit before the movement was very smooth. Avalanche includes a specific screwdriver (a small flat head with a dull tip) to adjust the clickers. I double checked where the clickers were at and also wanted to see the difference between full in and out was. The range was very specific and subtle, Craig told me that this was the case when I purchased it. In garage testing just pushing the fork down by hand the fork didn't feel that much different than the stock which initially concerned me and got me to thinking.. what have I done????..what was I thinking???..ARGH!!.. And then I took it out for a ride....
GOOD:
Um yea if you ride offroad this is the set up. I highly doubt that any oem MTB fork is going to match this. It truly brings it into the world of set up moto forks. I was railing down a trail filled with ruts and rocks about the size of my fist or larger and a boat load of worn in holes in the ground that hikers used to create steps. On my stock 888's the front end was harsh and would bounce around and deflect and transfer all that harshness to my arms. With the Avalanche set up I didn't realize how fast I was going until I got to the bottom because I didn't have to think about my suspension. It just worked.
The deflection and nervousness is gone. My wrists and forearms worked less because the forks didn't transfer as much of the harshness of the terrain to the bars. The next day I did a steep downhill that had 2-3 ft ramps built into it and the landings were smooth and easy. Flat hardpack dry turns the forks again stepped up where the stock 888's left off. To sum it up extremely confidence inspiring.
On the stock 888's I played with the clickers and was never happy with how the forks performed. With the Avalanche kit It came out of the box set up for me.
BAD?
-He doesn't tell you that the forks are so damn good that you are now very aware how much of a compromised turd the rear shock is, and that's after I had the shock custom re-valved for me and re sprung for my weight. (Avalanche does make custom shocks don't ya know)
-I wouldn't really call it bad but they aren't cheap but with the price of the forks and the kit its actually a bargain compared to $1,000 diamond or ohlins systems that aren't even set up for your specific riding style.
-good or bad your call....Your dealing with a small company and speaking directly with the guy making the kit. He's pretty specific.
Now the last thing to do is chuck on a set of SKF seals......blammo....
P.P.S im not any rep of Avalanche or getting anything from them.. I just dig the kit! They also make kits for other forks.
mmm no frothy fluids for me anymore!!.... were talkin Americano not Cappuccino!!!...... Olympic pool not 1960's ski cabin hot-tub!!!!.. I digress.
Anyway this is the Avalanche kit for the 888 Marzochi.
A Brief History...
I bought the 888's knowing that eventually I was going to get this kit. So I got the CR which is the least expensive 888 because the internals get yanked anyway. When I 1st bought it I wound up sending it back due to a crazy amount stiction which wound up being a manufacturing issue with the lower crown unit covered under warranty. I also added the 6.5 weight (HD) spring to it which allowed me to properly set sag. I have taken the fork apart a few times to change fluid, seals etc. and was not impressed to say the least. Here is a pic from Avalanche website of the stock internals..
I have never been impressed by MTB suspension usually the internals are cheap and wear out quiclky much like an Iphone
... but at least this was better than the DNM forks that came with the bike. They handled the square edge high speed stuff better than the DNM. but still It was no where near dialed in dirtbike suspension which is where my point of reference is.In comes Avalanche....
I spoke with Craig for a bit and a few weeks later a box arrived at my door with goodies in it.
So out with the stock guts and in with the avalanche. What this kit does is convert the fork to an open bath setup with high quality custom metal components that are re-buildable and can be easily re-valved. Don't let the open bath throw you off the range is pretty damn epic. Also you can add a "Floating Valving Assisted Threshold/High Speed Blow-off System" that allows a firmer feel while still being plush on high speed square edge trails if you like a firmer feel. He provides a setup chart and if you so choose specs for different shim stacks depending on riding style or preference.
Quick ride report / Result:
When I first assembled the unit and bled the unit before the movement was very smooth. Avalanche includes a specific screwdriver (a small flat head with a dull tip) to adjust the clickers. I double checked where the clickers were at and also wanted to see the difference between full in and out was. The range was very specific and subtle, Craig told me that this was the case when I purchased it. In garage testing just pushing the fork down by hand the fork didn't feel that much different than the stock which initially concerned me and got me to thinking.. what have I done????..what was I thinking???..ARGH!!.. And then I took it out for a ride....
GOOD:
Um yea if you ride offroad this is the set up. I highly doubt that any oem MTB fork is going to match this. It truly brings it into the world of set up moto forks. I was railing down a trail filled with ruts and rocks about the size of my fist or larger and a boat load of worn in holes in the ground that hikers used to create steps. On my stock 888's the front end was harsh and would bounce around and deflect and transfer all that harshness to my arms. With the Avalanche set up I didn't realize how fast I was going until I got to the bottom because I didn't have to think about my suspension. It just worked.
The deflection and nervousness is gone. My wrists and forearms worked less because the forks didn't transfer as much of the harshness of the terrain to the bars. The next day I did a steep downhill that had 2-3 ft ramps built into it and the landings were smooth and easy. Flat hardpack dry turns the forks again stepped up where the stock 888's left off. To sum it up extremely confidence inspiring.
On the stock 888's I played with the clickers and was never happy with how the forks performed. With the Avalanche kit It came out of the box set up for me.
BAD?
-He doesn't tell you that the forks are so damn good that you are now very aware how much of a compromised turd the rear shock is, and that's after I had the shock custom re-valved for me and re sprung for my weight. (Avalanche does make custom shocks don't ya know)
-I wouldn't really call it bad but they aren't cheap but with the price of the forks and the kit its actually a bargain compared to $1,000 diamond or ohlins systems that aren't even set up for your specific riding style.
-good or bad your call....Your dealing with a small company and speaking directly with the guy making the kit. He's pretty specific.
Now the last thing to do is chuck on a set of SKF seals......blammo....
P.P.S im not any rep of Avalanche or getting anything from them.. I just dig the kit! They also make kits for other forks.
Rix
100 TW
Nicely done, so looking at the kit, it appears to be a separate function fork (SSF) set up. Is that the case?1abv said:OHHH BOY.... someone got a new toy......
mmm no frothy fluids for me anymore!!.... were talkin Americano not Cappuccino!!!...... Olympic pool not 1960's ski cabin hot-tub!!!!.. I digress.
Anyway this is the Avalanche kit for the 888 Marzochi.
A Brief History...
I bought the 888's knowing that eventually I was going to get this kit. So I got the CR which is the least expensive 888 because the internals get yanked anyway. When I 1st bought it I wound up sending it back due to a crazy amount stiction which wound up being a manufacturing issue with the lower crown unit covered under warranty. I also added the 6.5 weight (HD) spring to it which allowed me to properly set sag. I have taken the fork apart a few times to change fluid, seals etc. and was not impressed to say the least. Here is a pic from Avalanche website of the stock internals..
I have never been impressed by MTB suspension usually the internals are cheap and wear out quiclky much like an Iphone
In comes Avalanche....
I spoke with Craig for a bit and a few weeks later a box arrived at my door with goodies in it.
So out with the stock guts and in with the avalanche. What this kit does is convert the fork to an open bath setup with high quality custom metal components that are re-buildable and can be easily re-valved. Don't let the open bath throw you off the range is pretty damn epic. Also you can add a "Floating Valving Assisted Threshold/High Speed Blow-off System" that allows a firmer feel while still being plush on high speed square edge trails if you like a firmer feel. He provides a setup chart and if you so choose specs for different shim stacks depending on riding style or preference.
Quick ride report / Result:
When I first assembled the unit and bled the unit before the movement was very smooth. Avalanche includes a specific screwdriver (a small flat head with a dull tip) to adjust the clickers. I double checked where the clickers were at and also wanted to see the difference between full in and out was. The range was very specific and subtle, Craig told me that this was the case when I purchased it. In garage testing just pushing the fork down by hand the fork didn't feel that much different than the stock which initially concerned me and got me to thinking.. what have I done????..what was I thinking???..ARGH!!.. And then I took it out for a ride....
GOOD:
Um yea if you ride offroad this is the set up. I highly doubt that any oem MTB fork is going to match this. It truly brings it into the world of set up moto forks. I was railing down a trail filled with ruts and rocks about the size of my fist or larger and a boat load of worn in holes in the ground that hikers used to create steps. On my stock 888's the front end was harsh and would bounce around and deflect and transfer all that harshness to my arms. With the Avalanche set up I didn't realize how fast I was going until I got to the bottom because I didn't have to think about my suspension. It just worked.
The deflection and nervousness is gone. My wrists and forearms worked less because the forks didn't transfer as much of the harshness of the terrain to the bars. The next day I did a steep downhill that had 2-3 ft ramps built into it and the landings were smooth and easy. Flat hardpack dry turns the forks again stepped up where the stock 888's left off. To sum it up extremely confidence inspiring.
On the stock 888's I played with the clickers and was never happy with how the forks performed. With the Avalanche kit It came out of the box set up for me.
BAD?
-He doesn't tell you that the forks are so damn good that you are now very aware how much of a compromised turd the rear shock is, and that's after I had the shock custom re-valved for me and re sprung for my weight. (Avalanche does make custom shocks don't ya know)
-I wouldn't really call it bad but they aren't cheap but with the price of the forks and the kit its actually a bargain compared to $1,000 diamond or ohlins systems that aren't even set up for your specific riding style.
-good or bad your call....Your dealing with a small company and speaking directly with the guy making the kit. He's pretty specific.
Now the last thing to do is chuck on a set of SKF seals......blammo....
P.P.S im not any rep of Avalanche or getting anything from them.. I just dig the kit! They also make kits for other forks.
That is correct. The fork has the damping on the R side and the spring on the L (when sitting on the bike) so only 1 unit is needed. When the kit is installed you remove all of the R side internals and replace everything including the caps and adjusters with the Avalanche unit.
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
Nice, yah, the only improvement you can make is the SKF Seals.
Hey fellas what do you think about this battery pack?
72v 24ah
this is EMP out of Las vegas
charging $2000 USD for the pack...
We use the New 21700 cells for this big battery system as most stealth bikes can output up to around 60 amp continues discharge so a strong more powerful cell will help get the best performance form your battery systems.
You must order a charge also if you would like to order this battery as these cells are LI-poly. The chem is different on these battery cells please click this link here to see the charger Click Here
End-off voltage(V): 65
Charging cut-off voltage（V): 84
Rated charging current Amperage of BMS (A): 15
Maximum Instantaneous discharging current Amperage of BMS (A): 160
Maximum continuous discharging current Amperage of BMS(A）: 80
Battery Cell: 21700 RPE Cell
5C discharge for RPE Cell
Max charging Current Amperage (A): 15
Cycle Life - 500
Charging Type（CC-CV）: CC/CV
Cut-off charging voltage（V）: 84
Charge temperature range ssd: 0-50℃
Discharge temperature range: -20–50℃
Dims
13-5/8 inches Length | 346 mm
6 inches Wide | 155 mm
4-3/8 inches Height | 111 mm
72v 24ah
this is EMP out of Las vegas
charging $2000 USD for the pack...
We use the New 21700 cells for this big battery system as most stealth bikes can output up to around 60 amp continues discharge so a strong more powerful cell will help get the best performance form your battery systems.
You must order a charge also if you would like to order this battery as these cells are LI-poly. The chem is different on these battery cells please click this link here to see the charger Click Here
End-off voltage(V): 65
Charging cut-off voltage（V): 84
Rated charging current Amperage of BMS (A): 15
Maximum Instantaneous discharging current Amperage of BMS (A): 160
Maximum continuous discharging current Amperage of BMS(A）: 80
Battery Cell: 21700 RPE Cell
5C discharge for RPE Cell
Max charging Current Amperage (A): 15
Cycle Life - 500
Charging Type（CC-CV）: CC/CV
Cut-off charging voltage（V）: 84
Charge temperature range ssd: 0-50℃
Discharge temperature range: -20–50℃
Dims
13-5/8 inches Length | 346 mm
6 inches Wide | 155 mm
4-3/8 inches Height | 111 mm
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
It looks to be a replacement option, but I don't think anyone has tried one yet. I am curious as well and would like to see someone buy it before I do. My Bomber is hurting a for a new battery now.
Hi to All,
Seems i cant take a trick last few weeks; first the water in Fighter #105 caused a stuck on throttle and daughter #2 went through a steel fence with 14 stitches the result. she tells me she is never riding 'Stealths' again.. Then I cooked the motor on Fighter #81 2 weeks ago and today I split the frame just where the back shock eyelet is factory welded onto the frame under triangle seat.. on Fighter #81 after the UFO Bomber motor upgrade was installed and had its first real off-road test.
Couple of pics attached of this debacles... and one of my home garage at the moment with an eclectic collection of E-bikes ( Lash Ebikes FUTR White Beta sitting in the corner there as well) and one of my 9 and 15 year old Boys riding their Fighters around stopping for lake jetty pic at Belmont NSW recently .. ... has anyone had a similar frame crack happen on a stealth .. was true that I came across and was chasing a WR450 around some jumps in a new spot that I found to ride today and his air was around 8 feet mine was more like 8 inches.. I'm not sure i was NOT pushing it that much for the frame weld to give in ? :?
View attachment 2
Im going to attempt a weld on it tomorrow as this is the bike my 9 year old son ( currently on school hols) rides and loves and I need it back on the go by Friday for an 'off the beat' track ride into a secluded beach in Lake Macquarie area we have been eyeing off for a while..
FYI My son rides this bike ( carefully) on reduced power which is still around 2 times the std fighter factory set up.On full power at the moment Fighter #81 is running 84v hot off the charger - 100Amps - Kelly controller set up and is ridiculously quick from about 10-70Ks.. it does not fly off the mark but the G force it pulls on full power once the throttle is rolled on is bordering on 'silly'... I had it up to 96kph today on the road for a burst or two... its very quick & is all front wheel in the air if you are not careful even on twisting juts a quarter throttle turn up any steep hill and not even on WOT.
We had to disable the heat sensor on the UFO motor as the Kelly controller reading conflicts with the sensor and immobilized the bike a couple of times even when set to 160 degrees . .. so not sure if anyone has a fix for that? Seems the Crystalite and Kelly match may not be ideal, i am going to upgrade Fighter #105 soon so looking for some ideas on what Controller upgrade i should go with and Motor combo, currently I have a 72v factory Crystalite Controller . ..... But with this huge beast of a motor on Fighter #81 with Ferro in ( i note Stealth Factory mix their Ferro with some type of cooking oil when they put it in the UFO Motor and it gave off that burnt smell initially ) and the 'Sketch' Coleman Hub sinks installed I'm not sure i can cook this one??
Final question im still running the std factory old RST one forks and DNM shocks on both bikes .. im sure they are overdue for an upgrade. i have not come across any recent posts on Stealth Owners forum on ES for ideas on suspension upgrades for Fighter.. i know the popular choices for Bomber are Fox 40, Zochs etc, but the only recommendation i can remember for Fighter was the Fox Vans(36) that Jim Kirk and some others put on. Anyone know the best options for front Forks ( maybe i will start there) i did look at and have some great experience with Ohlins ( from my Moto background with bikes) im not sure anyone is running an Ohlins setup on a Fighter ?
I have some videos of recent ride footage.. I will post soon as i find time to edit.
cheers Nic
Seems i cant take a trick last few weeks; first the water in Fighter #105 caused a stuck on throttle and daughter #2 went through a steel fence with 14 stitches the result. she tells me she is never riding 'Stealths' again..
Then I cooked the motor on Fighter #81 2 weeks ago and today I split the frame just where the back shock eyelet is factory welded onto the frame under triangle seat.. on Fighter #81 after the UFO Bomber motor upgrade was installed and had its first real off-road test. Couple of pics attached of this debacles... and one of my home garage at the moment with an eclectic collection of E-bikes ( Lash Ebikes FUTR White Beta sitting in the corner there as well) and one of my 9 and 15 year old Boys riding their Fighters around stopping for lake jetty pic at Belmont NSW recently .. ... has anyone had a similar frame crack happen on a stealth .. was true that I came across and was chasing a WR450 around some jumps in a new spot that I found to ride today and his air was around 8 feet mine was more like 8 inches.. I'm not sure i was NOT pushing it that much for the frame weld to give in ? :?
View attachment 2
Im going to attempt a weld on it tomorrow as this is the bike my 9 year old son ( currently on school hols) rides and loves and I need it back on the go by Friday for an 'off the beat' track ride into a secluded beach in Lake Macquarie area we have been eyeing off for a while..
FYI My son rides this bike ( carefully) on reduced power which is still around 2 times the std fighter factory set up.On full power at the moment Fighter #81 is running 84v hot off the charger - 100Amps - Kelly controller set up and is ridiculously quick from about 10-70Ks.. it does not fly off the mark but the G force it pulls on full power once the throttle is rolled on is bordering on 'silly'... I had it up to 96kph today on the road for a burst or two... its very quick & is all front wheel in the air if you are not careful even on twisting juts a quarter throttle turn up any steep hill and not even on WOT.
We had to disable the heat sensor on the UFO motor as the Kelly controller reading conflicts with the sensor and immobilized the bike a couple of times even when set to 160 degrees . .. so not sure if anyone has a fix for that? Seems the Crystalite and Kelly match may not be ideal, i am going to upgrade Fighter #105 soon so looking for some ideas on what Controller upgrade i should go with and Motor combo, currently I have a 72v factory Crystalite Controller . ..... But with this huge beast of a motor on Fighter #81 with Ferro in ( i note Stealth Factory mix their Ferro with some type of cooking oil when they put it in the UFO Motor and it gave off that burnt smell initially ) and the 'Sketch' Coleman Hub sinks installed I'm not sure i can cook this one??
Final question im still running the std factory old RST one forks and DNM shocks on both bikes .. im sure they are overdue for an upgrade. i have not come across any recent posts on Stealth Owners forum on ES for ideas on suspension upgrades for Fighter.. i know the popular choices for Bomber are Fox 40, Zochs etc, but the only recommendation i can remember for Fighter was the Fox Vans(36) that Jim Kirk and some others put on. Anyone know the best options for front Forks ( maybe i will start there) i did look at and have some great experience with Ohlins ( from my Moto background with bikes) im not sure anyone is running an Ohlins setup on a Fighter ?
I have some videos of recent ride footage.. I will post soon as i find time to edit.
cheers Nic
Hey Nic,
That frame crack looks just like what happened to my original Fighter #66 way back in 2012. That turned out to be because Stealth forgot to weld in some extra ribs on the inside in their rush to make it for delivery to me just before Christmas 2011.
View attachment 4
You should check with Stealth before attempting a self repair as all these frames were meant to have lifetime warranty. Mine was completely replaced after this incident. At the very least though if you do end up welding it up yourself, add in the reinforcement behind the shock mount if it's missing.
As far as forks go for the Fighter, I tried to DNM USD 8 for a while, but found it to be too heavy and I didn't like the turning angle restriction caused by the triple clamps, so I swapped over to some 180mm RockShox Domain RC and I'm loving them. I would prefer 190 or 200mm, but once I tuned it correctly with the rear DNM set to a higher position I found I did not have any pedal strike issues and small bump compliance it way better than those crappy stock RST forks.
I can't believe I put up with those RST's for as long as I did! They really are so rubbish, and mine ended up completely collapsing before I finally replaced them.
In some unrelated news, I had yet another Duro tyre that was ready for retirement and this time I decided to let it go with some style.
View attachment 2
I was actually somewhat surprised when I managed to burst it doing this burnout...I was just expecting it to fall to bits. :lol:
Next time I'll try and get a video of it in progress.
Cheers
That frame crack looks just like what happened to my original Fighter #66 way back in 2012. That turned out to be because Stealth forgot to weld in some extra ribs on the inside in their rush to make it for delivery to me just before Christmas 2011.
View attachment 4
You should check with Stealth before attempting a self repair as all these frames were meant to have lifetime warranty. Mine was completely replaced after this incident. At the very least though if you do end up welding it up yourself, add in the reinforcement behind the shock mount if it's missing.
As far as forks go for the Fighter, I tried to DNM USD 8 for a while, but found it to be too heavy and I didn't like the turning angle restriction caused by the triple clamps, so I swapped over to some 180mm RockShox Domain RC and I'm loving them. I would prefer 190 or 200mm, but once I tuned it correctly with the rear DNM set to a higher position I found I did not have any pedal strike issues and small bump compliance it way better than those crappy stock RST forks.
I can't believe I put up with those RST's for as long as I did! They really are so rubbish, and mine ended up completely collapsing before I finally replaced them.
In some unrelated news, I had yet another Duro tyre that was ready for retirement and this time I decided to let it go with some style.
View attachment 2
I was actually somewhat surprised when I managed to burst it doing this burnout...I was just expecting it to fall to bits. :lol:
Next time I'll try and get a video of it in progress.
Cheers
Tolkano
100 W
Lol so many people have snapped the rear shock mount on the fighter and those futr frames.
Hi CD, thanks for the advice on the weld and fork suggestions.
I will contact Stealth to discuss..,but not sure I want to wait to fix the frame via them...
With the forks you have and any Fighter replacer forks Need to be 1 1/8 straight not tapered to be able to. fit. I know nothing about bike forks really ...so I assume that with the different front fork axle sizing I need to match the Fighters size or use an adaptor? Do I want the 15mm or 20mm ?
The RST's are 180mm I assume 190mm or200mm if I could get them will still fit on the fighter without creating any fitting or other issues other than slightly changing the geometry of the bike...but would be a better ride for rough stuff..
I'll look at the RCs for one of the fighters for sure on your recommendation and good exlertwith them CD..
Excuse my ignorance here on the right Fork sizing.
Cheers nic.
I will contact Stealth to discuss..,but not sure I want to wait to fix the frame via them...
With the forks you have and any Fighter replacer forks Need to be 1 1/8 straight not tapered to be able to. fit. I know nothing about bike forks really ...so I assume that with the different front fork axle sizing I need to match the Fighters size or use an adaptor? Do I want the 15mm or 20mm ?
The RST's are 180mm I assume 190mm or200mm if I could get them will still fit on the fighter without creating any fitting or other issues other than slightly changing the geometry of the bike...but would be a better ride for rough stuff..
I'll look at the RCs for one of the fighters for sure on your recommendation and good exlertwith them CD..
Excuse my ignorance here on the right Fork sizing.
Cheers nic.
Hey Nic,
Yeah, you won't find any single crown forks over 180mm. I searched high and low and the only one's that exist are older rare examples that would cost a fortune and use older tech. Prior to installing mine, I did not know much about forks either, but I did some research, bought a few tools and gave it a crack. I also changed the headset and so far no issues.
The reason I went with the Domain RC is cause they are one of the strongest single crown options available for a good price.
https://www.bikeradar.com/au/mtb/ge...duct/review-rockshox-domain-rc-fork-12-46109/
Looking around though I can't see any available for sale anymore....so maybe they don't make them any more. From memory, you will want 1 1/8 straight and I think the existing wheel is 20mm through axle. Confirm all this of course. I think Stealth may have also stopped using the RST now, so you might wanna get them to switch the fork out while they fix the frame. Would make it heaps easier that's for sure.
Cheers
Yeah, you won't find any single crown forks over 180mm. I searched high and low and the only one's that exist are older rare examples that would cost a fortune and use older tech. Prior to installing mine, I did not know much about forks either, but I did some research, bought a few tools and gave it a crack. I also changed the headset and so far no issues.
The reason I went with the Domain RC is cause they are one of the strongest single crown options available for a good price.
https://www.bikeradar.com/au/mtb/ge...duct/review-rockshox-domain-rc-fork-12-46109/
Looking around though I can't see any available for sale anymore....so maybe they don't make them any more. From memory, you will want 1 1/8 straight and I think the existing wheel is 20mm through axle. Confirm all this of course. I think Stealth may have also stopped using the RST now, so you might wanna get them to switch the fork out while they fix the frame. Would make it heaps easier that's for sure.
Cheers
Hi CD,
You are right re Domain RC not being made any more.
I did find some discounted Boxer Forks ( superior and lighter than Domain)
https://www.pushys.com.au/rockshox-boxxer-rc-26inch-coil-200mm-maxle-dh-20x110-fork-black.html
do you think these will fit ok?
I spoke with Stealth and confirmed those measurements.
My back shock is busted as well i have now worked out and may have contributed to the frame crack. its was a RCL8 DNM air type but i have a PB RCP Coil 650pound Spring shock on Fighter #105 – I believe both these shocks were factory fitted as standard from new to these bikes? So did Stealth change from Air to Coil btw making the fighters back in 2011/12/13?
Talking to Stealth about purchasing their current DNM replacement shock but finding out those specs before i commit to purchase.. i do prefer Coil to air in the back with heavier spring for my riding. Im also looking at some other Fox and Roxshock back shock options. Do you think 220mm back shock length is the furthest i should push it?
cheers Nic.
You are right re Domain RC not being made any more.
I did find some discounted Boxer Forks ( superior and lighter than Domain)
https://www.pushys.com.au/rockshox-boxxer-rc-26inch-coil-200mm-maxle-dh-20x110-fork-black.html
do you think these will fit ok?
I spoke with Stealth and confirmed those measurements.
My back shock is busted as well i have now worked out and may have contributed to the frame crack. its was a RCL8 DNM air type but i have a PB RCP Coil 650pound Spring shock on Fighter #105 – I believe both these shocks were factory fitted as standard from new to these bikes? So did Stealth change from Air to Coil btw making the fighters back in 2011/12/13?
Talking to Stealth about purchasing their current DNM replacement shock but finding out those specs before i commit to purchase.. i do prefer Coil to air in the back with heavier spring for my riding. Im also looking at some other Fox and Roxshock back shock options. Do you think 220mm back shock length is the furthest i should push it?
cheers Nic.
I would highly suggest before buying a fork go to avalanche racing's website and check out their internal kits for whatever fork you buy. Esp if you like how properly set up moto forks work. The avalanche kit is head a shoulders above mountain bike fork internals and is re-valveable and serviceable as well. I have no affiliation with them at all but they do make damn good stuff!!
thanks 1abv, now you have got me thinking...
Looks like a better option to me than Ohlins - but gee their products are top end price... I see they sell forks and shocks straight out as well. the MTN-3 sounds unreal but it has at min a 3inch stroke will that be adoptable to my fighter?
It maybe easier just to pick one of their Forks and have them add the upgrades and post to me and get it done the right the first time..
I read your comments earlier about what a positive difference the Avalanche kit had made to your zochs..
Do you think they will ship to Aust? Anyone in Aust here on the forum tried to order and get Forks or Shocks from these guys?
cheers Nic.
Looks like a better option to me than Ohlins - but gee their products are top end price... I see they sell forks and shocks straight out as well. the MTN-3 sounds unreal but it has at min a 3inch stroke will that be adoptable to my fighter?
It maybe easier just to pick one of their Forks and have them add the upgrades and post to me and get it done the right the first time..
I read your comments earlier about what a positive difference the Avalanche kit had made to your zochs..
Do you think they will ship to Aust? Anyone in Aust here on the forum tried to order and get Forks or Shocks from these guys?
cheers Nic.
Rix
100 TW
tolkaNo said:
I only know of 2 FUTR failures. With the Fighter failures, the beauty of constructing the frames out of aircraft chromolly sheets is when something fails and lets go, it goes slowly. Anyway Stealth has stood behind every failure, I hope Pinotman sends Stealth his frame, it will either be repaired or a new one sent back.
