$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Who told you that you can run two Controllers in Parallel?

Sorry to burst your bubble, but that's not gonna go well.

I got myself the 12 Fet Controller and it does 35A, with a Shunt mod It'll do 3Kw for short bursts.
 
RageNR said:
- Or go with 2 identical 12fet controllers and run them in parallel.
Unless you have two sets of windings on the motor (or separate the strands of the existing windings to make two parallel sets), that may not work--timing differences between the controllers (even if they run off the same set of halls) could cause problems, up to and including fried controllers.

Might work if you use just one MCU to drive both sets of gate drivers/FETs. I'm not sure how often it's been tried or what the results are--you could poke around the forum for parallel controller posts/threads.

This search
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=parallel*+controller*&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sr=topics&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search
shows some relevant threads, but there's no test results in any that I've found.


AFAICR, John in CR uses two controllers on one motor, but the motor is a six-phase motor, two independent sets of windings, so one controller is on one, and one on the other, so they are not actually in parallel. You'd have to poke around his threads for details on that. I recall one thread (might be in the list above) that discusses splitting up the phase wire bundles on a 3-phase motor to make a parallelable setup, but I don't think it ever got to testing stage.


This thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40428
discusses the latter method, and has minimal testing.

This one
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=22091#p321635
showed problems even with that method.
 
I am with you guys on thinking that 2 controllers in parallel would never work. I thought it would fail catastrophically, either with the phases not being in sync, or one controller backfeeding into the weaker one.

But some time ago, I read someone claiming that they were using 2 controllers in parallel with no issues. (or so was the claim)
Actually, I believe a few different people claimed to be doing so.
Trying to dig up those posts, if I can remember where they were. This was probably well over a year ago.
 
I do not know what happens with other controllers, but for the last 5 months one of my hall sensors came loose inside the motor.
The only symptom was at very very low speed it would stutter, and more often then not would even give a reverse jolt. But once I got up to a certain speed, it would go fine. The hall sensor that was affected was the middle one.

I had fixed it prior to that, and had a separate incident prior to that.
One hall sensor wire got cut, the other looked like it was barely together, but majority was cut so can only assume it was not continuity. Having the +5V for each ganged together inside the motor, and the gnd too. Then having the Signal for each coming out the shaft. There was a slightly different symptom where it would go but would proceed on, just stutter. There was no backwards juice to the motor, unlike the most recent. The fixt was simple, just solder the broken connection back.

What was common for my motor is the halls would be figgity to insert, and sometimes would easily come out. I did use I believe liquid electrical tape, and not epoxy as I did not have any handy.

Just food for thought.
 
It seems that you can order the model with cruise or electronic brake e-abs.

but not the controller with the two functions included.

ask the seller and tell me that it is not available

Did someone buy the driver with the cruise and electronic brake e-abs functions recently?
 
RageNR said:
Prices on these seen to have gone up. I am trying to find a suitable replacement for my Cyclone 3000w.

I am considering 2 options here, but not sure which way to go.
- Get the 15fet version (18fet would be physically too large), and try to beef it up.
- Or go with 2 identical 12fet controllers and run them in parallel.

The single 15fet controller would not be my first pick, due to them being more expensive.
Honestly, I like the idea of running 2 controllers in parallel. You could run one at a time, or both. That also gives you a 50/100% power range, as well as redundancy if one should fail while out riding. Plus the lower end 12fet units are pretty cheap.

I will be running 24s, so that will top out at 99.6v (charging cells to 4.15v). Also would like to push the amps to 60, vs the 40a my Cyclone came with. On avg, running 24s @ 60a will be around 5000w. Obviously not for continuous loads, just to be available if needed.

So which Sunwin should I go for? Should I just get one of the cheaper 72v 500w units and change the caps to higher voltage?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-800W-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Speed-Motor-Controller-For-E-bike-Scooter/392072712255?hash=item5b495ad03f:g:JfYAAOSwQz1bHfPv

My concern is that these have been changed since people started buying them, and they are using much inferior mosfets. I need to be able to run up to 100v at the least, so going with a lower end model might get me lower rated fets.
Does anyone have recent experience with buying from Sunwin this year, that can attest to the 12fet units and what mosfets they are using?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-800W-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Speed-Motor-Controller-For-E-bike-Scooter/392072712255?hash=item5b495ad03f:g:JfYAAOSwQz1bHfPv

I can not open the links.

if it serves up to 90v you can buy the 72v or 84v model.

if you need 100v you will have to change mosfet and capacitors, it might be better to buy another 100v controller. The controller might not work well.
 
2 controller 2 motor's, 1 controller 1 motor,

Spin a motor and view it on a silly scope and see the voltage highs and lows then do it with an identicle motor and overlay the graphs, If you have high enough resolution you will see they will differ ever so slightly even with identical everything nothing is equal, Same for the heating of the motors under use its just a crazy plan thats only considered for high power on the cheap but it defeats the purpose when it's a misfiring vibrating mess.

Timing overlap is the issue by here the motors would need to be insane quality control and manufacturing tolerances to be equal enough to spoof a controller and the shafts would have to be locked perfectly aligned not to the degree but to the nano degree lol.

I've seen a video on YouTube two hoverboard motors one controller, It's a fail and it's there to watch for all.
 
I think that is a different scenario to what we are discussing here.

Idea is to use 2 identical controllers to run a single motor.
Both controllers hooked up to the same 3 phases and set of halls.
Single throttle Y'd and providing input to both units simultaneously.
 
You need a motor with 6 phase wires (two sets of 3 phase wires)
Or have both controllers run off one processing (the term escapes me ATM, but its been explained already)
 
markz said:
420b said:
They usually have 2 modes of e-brake.

As apposed to E-ABS?

Do I install a Normally Open switch, then when its pressed the braking action takes over?
Yes, usually short the 2 pins (e.g. using a switch, or a wire) to activate. Please let me know how it goes, that controller looks very intriguing.
 
Hi, I want to run 60v or 72v into a similar 84v controller, bc the stock motor is 500w 48v. I was told the motor can handle 72v if I keep it cool, maybe vent the covers. But will I fry the motor at 84v? My LiFePo4 battery pack can be adjusted to different voltage. Right now I have 24s. 20ah 43184 Headways.
 
You can run any voltage you want for the speed you require, you just need the right controller for your voltage with the right capacitors inside. You will be fine doing 60 or 72V on a 84V controller it will have 100V+ capacitors inside.

The motor can handle any voltage as well, its just for how long can it handle very high amps. If your motor is 500W then at 72V you could probably do 25-30A for bursts of power up a short hill because 72V x 25A = 1800W but the sellers for the motors usually will state it is a 500W motor to please the people who want to follow the letter of the law, if that law states 500W for Britains then the seller has got a bonus point. But that same seller is selling that same motor to the 1000W people say in the USA where the letter of the law states 1000W. But you could run it 1500W all day long without the temperature of the motor getting out of hand.

Pay close attention at 11:15 time mark
https://youtu.be/IxB2j-egWcQ?t=639

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html

You pick the voltage you want for the speed you require for the terrain you are riding the majority of the time. You choose a corresponding controller for that voltage, because you want a low voltage cutoff to save your battery pack. Then you choose the motor with the wire winding that suits your needs.

www.ebikes.ca
Tools
Trip Simulator BETA
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/trip-simulator.html
Chart Options is at the very bottom on the left hand side.
Input Type - Choose Google Maps and chart your route.
Second Graph - Leave it be.

Then you start selecting the other parameters, like the motor you have, controller etc.

nickatnoon61 said:
Hi, I want to run 60v or 72v into a similar 84v controller, bc the stock motor is 500w 48v. I was told the motor can handle 72v if I keep it cool, maybe vent the covers. But will I fry the motor at 84v? My LiFePo4 battery pack can be adjusted to different voltage. Right now I have 24s. 20ah 43184 Headways.
 
OK, thanx Mark! So, should I configure my pack to a lower voltage,(maybe around 60v) and have less risk of motor damage, or go with the full 78.8v-88.8v LiFePo4 (depending on SOC) at 24s to match up closer to my 84v controller? What would you do Mark? BTW, I am running a 200 lb Motorino e-motorcycle, and I weigh 180 lb. Are you the guy with the fedora hat on the video in Vancouver? That is where I am from.
 
No I am not the guy with the hat on.

Its a matter of how much power the motor can handle, which means: Voltage x Amps = Watts
So you can have 100V x 10A = 1000W or 50V x 20A = 1000W or 25V x 40A = 1000W or 10V x 100A = 1000W
100V can be lethal while 100A is un-practicle for consumers.

Risk of motor damage is burning up the windings or tearing apart the gears. 200lb motorcycle + 180lb rider is 400lbs which requires a ton of power no pun intended. So if I were you, I would find out if your motor is direct drive or geared, find out what TurnCount the motor is, then if your motorcycle wheels are 21" then go to a smaller wheel, say a 17" motorcycle rim.
Then do 72V because you need the speed to overcome the smaller wheel which reduces your speed. Then if the motor lasts, and you are happy then that is good. If the motor gets fried, or the power level and speed is not good then you need a more powerful hub motor, like the MXUS 3000w or MXUS 5000W motors or the QS motors.

What exactly do you have when you say a motorcycle?
Pictures?



nickatnoon61 said:
OK, thanx Mark! So, should I configure my pack to a lower voltage,(maybe around 60v) and have less risk of motor damage, or go with the full 78.8v-88.8v LiFePo4 (depending on SOC) at 24s to match up closer to my 84v controller? What would you do Mark? BTW, I am running a 200 lb Motorino e-motorcycle, and I weigh 180 lb. Are you the guy with the fedora hat on the video in Vancouver? That is where I am from.
 
I bought that Controller for a friend. It runs on a 14S 15Ah Lg Chem Battery.

My E-bike is at 72V@80A currently, hopefully soon I'll have 88V@150A for my motorcycle project.
 
Jeremy talks about using a resistor on the KU controller to increase the amperage in a safe manner to keep safeguards in place, rather then soldering the shunts.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44784#p652301

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44784#p652651
The real problem, and one that won't show unless there is a fault, is that reducing the value of the shunt with solder stops the fault protection circuit (which is completely separate from the current limit circuit) from working properly. This means you run a bigger risk of doing damage to the controller, wiring, or even motor or battery, if you get a fault, as the controller may well not shutdown. It's not just the cost of the controller that matters here, although quite why it's OK to risk even a £10 controller for the sake of a £0.05 resistor is a bit beyond me.
 
vicens said:
Buy the 72V 500W model at auction.

Buy the 72V model. in case I ever put a 72V battery.

The driver is for my scooter. Of 1500W 60V.

The controller board is the same as always. The cpu is different. Model GPM8F3116A-QL014. The mosfets are different. Model EZ10N16 K703.

I can not find the technical sheet of the mosfet and the cpu.

QUmfQ5f.jpg

hTrFEp5.jpg

Pvq5uj2.jpg

VDtCeAq.jpg

PiU04iy.jpg

Here you go:
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Generalplus-GPM8F3116A_C193858.pdf

Can someone tell me why there are 3 contacts for EBS? And what is the other EBS plug purple wire soldered to?
 
PeterEnis said:
I've contacted Sunwin on Ebay and they told me it doesn't have regen. So it's really just an electrical brake. What's interesting that it doesn't use power to brake, my wattmeter always shows 0W when I brake. I guess it just shorts the phase wires at a high frequency for braking. It's a really strong brake and it works until 5 kph. Also my motor (9C clone) gets super hot when I brake at 70 kph on a steep hill, so I won't use it.

I also have a controller that has an EBS jumper and another contact labeled EBS1 and I'm pretty sure mine does regen. I noticed in the Sunwin controller pics, they have an EBS jumper and a contact labeled EBS, on which a purple wire is soldered. I don't know where the other purple wire on the plug is soldered. I tested mine by climbing a large hill and waiting for my battery voltage to stabilize. Then, I went down the hill with EBS on and I had 0.5v more at the bottom. Mine didn't have an EBS plug like yours but the circuit board had those 3 contacts so I shorted the jumper with the bike upside down and the EBS kicked in. I wasn't sure about the EBS1 but it looks like it connects to the top of the EBS jumper via PCB etching so I connected a wire to EBS1 and one to the bottom of the EBS jumper and ran it to a switch. Maybe there's a small chance that the regen EBS is due to this wiring vs however yours is wired? Or is it just ground and it's a programming thing?


LLifQgE.jpg

vBl63lZ.jpg
 
You would need to confirm a gain, otherwise that 0.5V might just be a margin of error because of a cheap measurement device.
A current measurement on the battery would suffice, showing a current one way, and when you think its regen'ing the current should show opposite polarity.
 
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