New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
cresny said:
EndlessCadence said:
I have an annoying "click" with every pedal rotation, it's not very loud. I'm not sure if it relates to cadence or how hard I press on the pedals.

How worn are your chain and chaining? I noticed this sort of sound when my chainring was worn to sharp points. My guess is the regular tick on revolution is when the tip of a chainring tooth happens to meet the rod center of a chain pin, which then snaps down into the space in between teeth.
Thanks for your help! Today I found out that the motor mount had moved and it has crushed my display cable. I think this caused the clicking sound as well. Cable is repaired but I didn't test if the noise is gone now.

I hope someone can help me with my lights circuit:
Because of the low maximum current of the TSDZ2's light output I wired an external solid state relay and DC-DC converter to power my lights. This works but it is inverted! I didn't know that NC (normally connected) solid state relays even existed and only saw them at high prices. But it looks like my relay is NC??
The lights turn on when I apply battery power, they turn off when I power on the lights using the LCD3 display. Confusing isn't it?

These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
Make LCD3 invert the state, with a configuration for that. I guess other users may have thesame need. Even good if you coild document ypmour build with pictures on wiki.
Thanks! I thought about that too. But I'm afraid that the lights will toggle during startup? Maybe not noticable. And can I trust this relay? It's behaviour is unexpected and incorrect according to the datasheet if I understood it correctly. Most SSRs are NO.

I'll take pictures, great idea!
 
GFK seems to be "to weak" for 500+ Watts :)
small_IMG_20181008_082002_014.jpg
Trying it cutting from aluminium or steel now...
 
I improved the wiki page about how to install magnetic brake sensors and also I created a wiki page for How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle. Both this pages are linked from the FAQ page: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
 
casainho said:
I improved the wiki page about how to install magnetic brake sensors and also I created a wiki page for How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle. Both this pages are linked from the FAQ page: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
Nice! I'm particularly interested in the magnetic brake sensors.
 
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
I improved the wiki page about how to install magnetic brake sensors and also I created a wiki page for How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle. Both this pages are linked from the FAQ page: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ
Nice! I'm particularly interested in the magnetic brake sensors.

Me too. It is clear the schematic, but due to the lack of external ports for brakes on the KT-LCD3 (the VLCD5 have those ports) I did not understand the best place to connect the wires from the brake sensor:
- inside the display (soldering)
- outside the display (Higo connector before the extension cable)
- at the end of the extension cable where we need to wire and assemble the connector to the TSDZ2

Thanks
 
feketehegyi said:
fyi, I could update the factory default firmware with changing only 7 bytes to send to display the battery voltage, current and pedal cadence. With my Android app these values are visible. Here's my demo video:
[youtube]K6m0NgTeFAM[/youtube]

Good Work feketehegyi,

I would like to see (someday, in a near future, after finished some basic developments ) the new open source firmware connected via Bluetooth to a smartphone. Manly for motor configuration (power levels, etc).

Anyway congratulations.

Regards
Azur
 
EndlessCadence said:
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...
 
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...
Why don't you use a cheap popular Arduino relay board module that needs 5V and is cheap as 4 euros on Ebay (shipping from Europe)??
 
casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...
Why don't you use a cheap popular Arduino relay board module that needs 5V and is cheap as 4 euros on Ebay (shipping from Europe)??
Yes that's also an option but I don't know if it's small enough to fit in my battery mount like the solid state relay does now. And does it handle 6V input instead of 5V? Otherwise I also have to add a voltage divider...
 
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...
Why don't you use a cheap popular Arduino relay board module that needs 5V and is cheap as 4 euros on Ebay (shipping from Europe)??
Yes that's also an option but I don't know if it's small enough to fit in my battery mount like the solid state relay does now. And does it handle 6V input instead of 5V? Otherwise I also have to add a voltage divider...
There are versions of solid state Arduino:

Performance parameters:

Power supply: 3-32VDC (wide voltage power supply)
Trigger: high level trigger, 3-32VDC relay switches on (ON), 0-0.5V relay is switched off (OFF) 0.5-2.5 volts unknown state
Load current: 5-220VDC 5A (DC only)
Wiring Port Description:

DC +: positive power supply (3-32VDC)
DC-: negative
CH1: trigger terminal (3-32VDC high level trigger active)
 
casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...
Why don't you use a cheap popular Arduino relay board module that needs 5V and is cheap as 4 euros on Ebay (shipping from Europe)??
Yes that's also an option but I don't know if it's small enough to fit in my battery mount like the solid state relay does now. And does it handle 6V input instead of 5V? Otherwise I also have to add a voltage divider...
There are versions of solid state Arduino:

Performance parameters:

Power supply: 3-32VDC (wide voltage power supply)
Trigger: high level trigger, 3-32VDC relay switches on (ON), 0-0.5V relay is switched off (OFF) 0.5-2.5 volts unknown state
Load current: 5-220VDC 5A (DC only)
Wiring Port Description:

DC +: positive power supply (3-32VDC)
DC-: negative
CH1: trigger terminal (3-32VDC high level trigger active)
Do you have a link?
But maybe a solid state relay isn't suitable for switching a DC-DC converter?
 
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
Why don't you use a cheap popular Arduino relay board module that needs 5V and is cheap as 4 euros on Ebay (shipping from Europe)??
Yes that's also an option but I don't know if it's small enough to fit in my battery mount like the solid state relay does now. And does it handle 6V input instead of 5V? Otherwise I also have to add a voltage divider...
There are versions of solid state Arduino:

Performance parameters:

Power supply: 3-32VDC (wide voltage power supply)
Trigger: high level trigger, 3-32VDC relay switches on (ON), 0-0.5V relay is switched off (OFF) 0.5-2.5 volts unknown state
Load current: 5-220VDC 5A (DC only)
Wiring Port Description:

DC +: positive power supply (3-32VDC)
DC-: negative
CH1: trigger terminal (3-32VDC high level trigger active)
Do you have a link?
But maybe a solid state relay isn't suitable for switching a DC-DC converter?
Send me the link of your DC-Dc and I Will send you the full connections.
 
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...

Check this one maybe it helps:
https://youtu.be/t8oPIJ263YQ
 
Bash1303 said:
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
I've been busy all night to get the lights working but they won't, very frustating. I've bought two of these relays. The first one works inverted as described previously and the second won't turn off, this worked only the first time. I've added a suppressing diode because the DC-DC converter can act as a inductive load, doesn't fix the issue. Did the aliexpress seller sell me fake stuff or am I doing something wrong here? I don't trust the relays at all.

Anybody else switched a DC-DC (48V -> 6V) converter with a solid state relay?

It's a pity my bike isn't in a rideable condition right now because I've messed with the cables. This means I also can't test my firmware improvements tonight...

Check this one maybe it helps:
https://youtu.be/t8oPIJ263YQ
Thanks, I've already wired the solid state relay in the same way.
 
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
Send me the link of your DC-Dc and I Will send you the full connections.
Thanks!

These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the...340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-...315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5

I've also tried a 1N5402 Schottky diode parallel to the DC-DC converter as adviced for inductive loads, didn't fix anything.

Solid state relay, 3 euros: https://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Channel-SSR-Solid-State-Relay-High-low-Trigger-5A-3-32V-For-Arduino-Uno-R3-/272562844588

2253955975.jpg


And this is the way I would wire (not tested) and maybe others can comment:

 
Being a 65 year old and in good nick for my age I bought 2 x tsdz2 500w mated with Samsung 30a 15ah batteries in August 2018. The other for my wife also from Ali Express from Ebird for vld5 displays with all the bits including throttle (which we have not used) ebrakes front light with split line to lights from speed sensor.
This torque sensing unit is so worth it.

Now I am totally indebted to this tsdz2 thread and your awesome updates and guidance which enabled me to nut out what we needed.😀

I found and set speed to 45k on my large framed 2016 Giant Hybrid roam that worked out really well.
As others on forum I could not keep derailleur cable running under bottom bracket.
Fitted a cable along top bar and down to a new unit.
Now my chainline is pretty wild but even though I kept my 36 and 48tooth by buying the spider to fit from ebird it workes fine without problem.
They threw in a free spare blue cog for me with the 2 kits.
It's handy having a 36 for those steep hills. Most of the time I have no need to switch over.
As I use my bike for commuting, trails etc I retain my original rear cluster 11-36t 10 speed. I run with 38c Schwalbes and just love this setup. It's great to take away on the caravan to.
I usually ride with assist 2 and hang easily between 35 to 39ks on the flat and if the weather here in sunny queensland Australia is good I do a 30k run early most mornings. Motor is barely warm with this on setting 2with me having a workout.
its much easier to hold around 40ks on setting 3 but It's not really worth sitting on level 4 or 5 just to pull 45k because the wind resistance really hits and for a long stint motor gets pretty warm so I keep this to short bursts and help save my blue cog.
Have done 700k so far.

Question:
As I have 5 assist settings would each level be 100w increments?
My gauge on vlcd5 is really inaccurate.
Shows full and when the icons drop only 1 down it takes 3.5 hours to charge back to 100% with 2amp charger. So 3.5 × 2 = 7ah used from my max of 15.
So I am assuming using 2=200w usage if using continuously.

I found that when waiting in a low gear to take off I noticed that my foot actuated the motor so I pulled the supplied ebrake sensors apart and sucessfully fitted them to my hydraulic brakes so its not an issue now.

Wife runs setting 3 most of the time on her 26" and loves the intuitive feedback feel.
She wants to go riding now! Yea!
 

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AZUR said:
Good Work feketehegyi,

I would like to see (someday, in a near future, after finished some basic developments ) the new open source firmware connected via Bluetooth to a smartphone. Manly for motor configuration (power levels, etc).

Anyway congratulations.

Regards
Azur

Thank you Azur!
fyi, I've updated it with one more feature. The assist level can be adjusted freely.
I've actually changed only 9 bytes in the factory default original firmware and so there're: battery voltage, current, cadence and free adjustable assist level. All the rest are the same, means default LCD displays can be still used without the new features of course. At least my XH-18 works with.
A live demo:
[youtube]MRNlK_30TOA[/youtube]

Yes, I think I will do an app edition for the open source firmware as well.
 
Hi. What's the best choice of remote. I would like something small ideally as I'm an aggressive rider that crashes a lot. I'm also a tinkerer so I'd like the option to do upgrades to the system. I'm not bothered about colour but I do like functionality.
Thanks for any advice
Daniel
 
feketehegyi said:
Thank you Azur!
fyi, I've updated it with one more feature. The assist level can be adjusted freely.
I've actually changed only 9 bytes in the factory default original firmware and so there're: battery voltage, current, cadence and free adjustable assist level. All the rest are the same, means default LCD displays can be still used without the new features of course. At least my XH-18 works with.
A live demo:
[youtube]MRNlK_30TOA[/youtube]

Yes, I think I will do an app edition for the open source firmware as well.

Cool! I assume you use some sort of Bluetooth device to transmit to the phone app? Is there any description somewhere of a suitable device, and how to hook it up?
 
Hi,
yesterday i installed the k lcd3 and flashed the open source firmware.

had some small issues. after first boot motor didnt work correctly. i had to reset the k lcd 3 eeprom seetings (
6: LCD display configuration -> LCD configurations reset to defaults ) to correct it.

today first 1 hour ride. i really like how the firmware works!
big thanks!!!!!!

4 things that could be improved:

1.)
2. Max battery power screen:
it would be nice to set the power in 10 or 25watt increments instead of 50 watts.

2.)
General: changing values by clicking one time per change is kind of boring ;)
would be nice when i am setting a value pressing constantly up or down "scrolls" up or down the value.
hope you understand what i mean.

3.)
Motor lags when: pedalling-> not pedalling-> pedalling again -> lag 1-2 sec -> motor kicks in

4.)
startup power boost:
motor starts in power boost -> stop pedalling before boost time ends -> motor still runs a tick longer.

thanks again!
 
vscope said:
Hi,
yesterday i installed the k lcd3 and flashed the open source firmware.

had some small issues. after first boot motor didnt work correct. i had to reset the k lcd eeprom seetings (
6: LCD display configuration -> LCD configurations reset to defaults ) to correct it.

today first 1 hour ride. i really like how the firmware works!
big thanks!!!!!!

4 things that could be improved:

1.)
2. Max battery power screen:
it would be nice to set the power in 10 or 25watt increments instead of 50 watts.

2.)
General: changing values by clicking one time per change is kind of boring ;)
would be nice when i am setting a value pressing constantly up or down "scrolls" up or down the value.
hope you understand what i mean.

3.)
Motor lags when: pedalling-> not pedalling-> pedalling again -> lag 1-2 sec -> motor kicks in

4.)
startup power boost:
motor starts in power boost -> stop pedalling before boost time ends -> motor still runs a tick longer.

thanks again!

Great feedback !
I agree with you. If you want the guys to follow up suggest you post them in the issues area.
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues
 
I started documenting Bafang 850C color display, the JTAG flash/debug pins are easy accessible just like on KT-LCD3 display:

Flash and debug
The JTAG SWD pins are available on the board, on the pads as seen on next picture, with the following JTAG pins (from left to right): GND; NRST; SWCLK; SWDIO.

Bafang_850C_board-JTAG.jpg


More information here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-850C
 
casainho said:
EndlessCadence said:
casainho said:
Send me the link of your DC-Dc and I Will send you the full connections.
Thanks!

These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the...340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-...315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5

I've also tried a 1N5402 Schottky diode parallel to the DC-DC converter as adviced for inductive loads, didn't fix anything.

Solid state relay, 3 euros: https://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Channel-SSR-Solid-State-Relay-High-low-Trigger-5A-3-32V-For-Arduino-Uno-R3-/272562844588

2253955975.jpg


And this is the way I would wire (not tested) and maybe others can comment:

Thanks for your effort Casainho! Much appreciated. Preferably I want to switch before the DC-DC converter, what do you think?
I've now also ordered this power control board because it is very small, can switch my battery voltage and should handle the load well. Although it's a logic level MOSFET, 6V control voltage shouldn't be a problem I think.

Should receive it very soon, will let you guys know!

The MOSFET is also really cheap on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-NEW-RFP30N06LE-P30N06LE-30A-60V-TO-220/32835135967.html
 
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