Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

inedible said:

Alright, so that's indeed the case. There are two versions of the password-protected firmware out there. One with PAS and no throttle, and one with both.

After spending far too long trying to track down this mythical throttle-and-password firmware, I realized in this zip file, "PSW protected profiles Firmware.zip", there's a folder called "unknown version". I've always been too afraid to try flashing this version, but curiosity finally got the best of me. Sure enough, this is the one where throttle works.

I tried looking through this thread and the other big adaptto thread on here, but I honestly have no idea where I found this. So, in case anyone needs it, here's a copy: https://u.teknik.io/8UDgU.zip It seems like both versions in here are RC9G4

Click to expand...

Finally, thx for testing out, here is the original link and I will update the folder name
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=1371947&hilit=firmware#p1371947

Hello,

Got a Max-E I'm get "protect" on screen when using eco, normal and boost. Any ideas. I'm completely lost. Thanks in advance

BerkshireEbiker said:

Hello,

Got a Max-E I'm get "protect" on screen when using eco, normal and boost. Any ideas. I'm completely lost. Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

It can be caused by a voltage spike on switching on ,, for example if your throttle signal is higher than it should be. I had this in the past and a simple switch off and on would sometimes sort it, or lift the motor wheel off the ground and pull the throttle a little and see if that sorts it. Other than that, i have no idea.

BerkshireEbiker said:

Hello,

Got a Max-E I'm get "protect" on screen when using eco, normal and boost. Any ideas. I'm completely lost. Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

Good morning start by disconnecting motor's cables from the controller and then the rest of them except the power to see where the problem is. If you still have the same protection error message it means the controller is damaged and has to go to Russia for service.

When ever I turn my bike upside down to work on it, I'm always not liking the way it rests on the Adaptto display. I don't want to have to remove the display every time I work on my bike, so instead I made these 3D printed clip on supports that lift the handlebars enough to clear the screen and still provide a stable support.
View attachment 5View attachment 1

Feel free to download a copy to print yourself and modify to suit.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3156217

Cheers

I always have the display semi tight so you can easily turn it by hand or so it can turn during a smash - this way you are less likely to damage the clamps on it. The I just turn it down by hand before lifting over the bike.

Allex said:

I always have the display semi tight so you can easily turn it by hand or so it can turn during a smash - this way you are less likely to damage the clamps on it. The I just turn it down by hand before lifting over the bike.

Click to expand...

Yeah, fair point.
This is only possible if you have a headset that allows it and there is room for the screen to rotate in the front. I don't tighten my clamps hard (I've overdone it and broken them before), so I wouldn't have a problem in a crash.
These clamps are also useful for other screens and handlebars with raised up devices attached. I use them on my recumbent bike which has a solar panel/display sticking up above the bars also.

Cheers

Hello everyone,

do I ask you how do I completely reset the adappto controller?

I need to delete miles and battery cycles.


Thanks

KoZi_man said:

Hello everyone,

do I ask you how do I completely reset the adappto controller?

I need to delete miles and battery cycles.


Thanks

Click to expand...

There's a master reset under the controller configuration -> advanced configuration menu, but I don't think that resets stats, just configuration.

Go to the stats screen and press down, and it'll ask you if you want to clear it.

If you disconnect the main battery wires to the Max-E. Would the BMS still drain the battery?

Would you need to unplug both the BMS and main battery wires to stop any draw on the battery for storing the ebike long term?

Thanks.

Offroader said:

If you disconnect the main battery wires to the Max-E. Would the BMS still drain the battery?

Would you need to unplug both the BMS and main battery wires to stop any draw on the battery for storing the ebike long term?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

You should always disconnect the BMS balance plugs before unplugging the battery cables and connect the BMS once you have the battery connected again this to avoid issue and consequently trip to Mosca of the controller.

What I do to remove the battery is:
1-Open the breaker on the positive main battery cable.
2-Disconnect all the balance plugs from BMS
3-Disconnect battery positive and negative plugs from the controller

To reinstall the battery this is what I do:
1-Connect positive and negative battery cables with the breaker open
2-Connect all the balance wires to BMS
3-Turn the key on and then switch on the breaker

The controller that I have is one of the oldest with the red wire from controller to the display wired to the key and I guess with newer ones there could be some difference on the last point.

Thanks, would you or anyone else happen to have a recommendation on the best type of connector to use to disconnect the BMS at the very bottom of the bike?

The BMS will be permanently mounted deep inside my battery case and I will need to plug/unplug it outside of the frame.

Thanks

I would not bother. It does not drain my power. Have a 18s6p and dont use the bike during winter season. Besides its good to turn it on once a month to check on the cells.

I find that keeping the battery as low as voltage as possible, around 3.2-3.3 volts per cell will keep the battery from losing capacity.

At that low voltage it doesn't take much for the voltage to drop from a parasitic load. I find that my 20s battery will fall from 66 volts to 64 volts after a month or so with the controller connected. The other scary thing is that I had the max-e turn on or possibly not turn off once and that really drained the battery quickly. I believe it just turned on spontaneously so that is another reason why when not using the bike for months it may be safer to disconnect everything.

If I am home I can check it every month or so during the winter but if I take a 6 month trip then I'll worry.

The other issue is it is such a pain to open up the frame of my bike to get to my battery or connectors. I just wanted to be able to disconnect everything from outside the bike, and wanted to run the connectors outside of the frame so I can get to them when necessary.

Hi Guys,
Seems my Hall Sensor cable was accidently cut and discarded along with both connectors during a harness change. I have some 6 pin Higo I can use to replace the connector if someone knows the color wire conversion.
This is the wire from my Max-E I need to convert to R,B,G,BLU,Y,W
Thanks Guys

Accidentally left my Adaptto Mini-E powered Fighter turned on during my Christmas holidays for about 10 days.
Came back to find the battery down to 22%...just as well I have a monster 2.5Kwhr pack or it would have been toast.

That equates to about 185Wh per day of idle consumption. Is that normal?
I have suspend mode enabled, but it doesn't seem to do anything.

Cheers

Cowardlyduck said:

Accidentally left my Adaptto Mini-E powered Fighter turned on during my Christmas holidays for about 10 days.
Came back to find the battery down to 22%...just as well I have a monster 2.5Kwhr pack or it would have been toast.

That equates to about 185Wh per day of idle consumption. Is that normal?
I have suspend mode enabled, but it doesn't seem to do anything.

Click to expand...

Sounds way to high for the display and controller alone, so i would check the BMS balancing v. maybe it balanced all the time.

Regarding supend mode i had a similar issue, it "fell asleep" but after a few seconds it woke up without doing anything. Again and again..
Adaptto mentioned that it is a bug and i should disable it and solder the on/off switch. Very goood support *ironic off*

Thanks Madin.
I don't have a BMS and the only other thing I have plugged in to the battery is a small DC-DC converter, but that was off via a separate switch.

Has anyone else done this? What rate have others seen the idle state consume?

Cheers

I had the same thing happen to me and I actually made a post about it in this thread in 2016.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=3900#p1231821

I never put the switch to manually turn off the max-e. What I do in periods of non-use is I set my suspend to 20 seconds, make sure the screen turns off, and I check at least every week to make sure it didn't turn on and the voltages are stable as I store my bike at low voltage. I never had an issue again with this.

What I recommend is that you just check your max-e every few days if you are not using the bike and have the controller powered.

My MAX-E controller failed a week ago.

It made noise when i started it with my keylock switch.
It gives the error "Protect" and has locked firmware, never been over 140 battery Amps.
Can i send it for a warranty repair, does anyone know how start the warranty claim?

bigbore said:

Offroader said:

If you disconnect the main battery wires to the Max-E. Would the BMS still drain the battery?

Would you need to unplug both the BMS and main battery wires to stop any draw on the battery for storing the ebike long term?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

You should always disconnect the BMS balance plugs before unplugging the battery cables and connect the BMS once you have the battery connected again this to avoid issue and consequently trip to Mosca of the controller.

What I do to remove the battery is:
1-Open the breaker on the positive main battery cable.
2-Disconnect all the balance plugs from BMS
3-Disconnect battery positive and negative plugs from the controller

To reinstall the battery this is what I do:
1-Connect positive and negative battery cables with the breaker open
2-Connect all the balance wires to BMS
3-Turn the key on and then switch on the breaker

The controller that I have is one of the oldest with the red wire from controller to the display wired to the key and I guess with newer ones there could be some difference on the last point.

Click to expand...

Could anyone comment on if this is true, that you should disconnect the BMS before disconnecting the postive and negative wires from the controller?

I plan on soldering the BMS directly to the battery because of space restrictions and not use the 4s JST/XH connectors. I know it was done before.

Will you really kill your BMS or your controller if you don't plug / unplug the BMS in the correct order like stated above? What exactly will get damaged the BMS or the controller?

What if you disconnect the 4 prong weather proof connector that connects the BMS and the controller, shouldn't that suffice as disconnecting the BMS even though you left on the wires connected to your battery?

Does anyone have an idea bout this?

Has anyone disconnected their battery wire from the controller with the BMS connected and didn't have any issues?

I just don't get how disconnected the battery wires will damage anything if the BMS is connected. Even that guy wrote he "opened" the breaker to the positive wire before disconnecting the BMS, this is basically disconnecting the battery from the controller.

The BMS I believe only has signal wires and low voltage wires to the controller, this is the 4 pin connector, how could not disconnecting this damage anything? How could disconnecting the BMS balance lead wires also damage anything if the controller is on? It makes no sense.

If this was the case then adaptto would have warned us or many people on this forum would have a damaged controller / BMS for simply not disconnecting things in the correct order. This thread would be full of posts about how their BMS caused their controller to break, I can't find a single post about the BMS damaging the controller. Adaptto also was so serious about not getting warranty returns that they would not allow something like this or at least not warn us. I can find no information about how to disconnect the BMS and controller properly.

So many people have circuit breakers on their bikes and always basically disconnect the battery power to the controller when they swtich the breaker on and off, while most likely leaving the BMS connected.

I have no choice now and will have to go ahead and finish installing my BMS and take a chance that nothing will break. I'm half way through soldering my wires and then I remembered the post about how to disconnect the BMS correctly, which I can't do if I solder my wires directly to the BMS

If someone knows anything please let me know.

If someone has disconnected their battery without disconnected the BMS and didn't damage anything please let me know also.

So far so good. I hooked up the BMS, connected it and everything worked.

I then pulled out the battery wires while the BMS was still connected, then disconnected the 4 prong connector to the BMS, then hooked everything back up and it worked.

Nothing shorted, exploded, or got broken in the process.

What I didn't test was connecting the battery wires and turning on the max-e, then connecting the BMS 4 prong connector. I figured that may cause issues but there is no reason to ever do that.

I do not think there is any issue with unplugging the battery wires, then unplugging the BMS or leaving the BMS balance leads permanently connected to the battery. If there was an issue with doing this then we would have many posts here about people breaking their BMS or Controller, and as you can see it works without causing any problems.

I don't know if that post was a joke just to mess with me .

Here is a picture of how I soldered directly to the BMS so I do not have the luxury of disconnecting the balance leads.

One thing I noticed is that it seems that the BMS drains the 1st cell in each group. I guess it does this as that is what powers the BMS. I know someone had a post before about how his 1st cell in each group was always draining compared to the rest.

Kind of just wishing I never installed the BMS, my cells stayed perfectly balanced for 2 years without a BMS. I really should have just extended the wires to outside the case and just checked the cells manually every so often with a cell logger.

A very well built 18650 battery should not ever need balancing and that is the case with my 280 cell pack. Even with not a single cell in parallel, I only ran the cells in series, all the cells were still perfectly balanced.

I wasted lots of time on this project and wishing i never installed it because of it constantly draining the pack. I guess I can always remove the BMS and reroute the wires outside and put on JST/XH connectors.

Yup...in my 8 years of E-Biking, I have not had a good experience with a BMS yet, and seen more than one pack destroyed because of the BMS when the cells were perfectly fine.

They are great for noobs where they cannot be taught, but for everyone else, it's better to just learn a bit and monitor balance yourself periodically.

Cheers