The blue ring slides along the stantion and is used for setting "sag" and seeing how much of the travel you use on any ride. Many systems specify that you tune the fork by using 20-25% of the total travel ("sag") when the bike is stationary and you're sitting on it. Of course, individual preference rules.
Noob EEB Enduro Build
- Thread starter Gstegman
- Start date
Gstegman
10 W
2old said:
Ah, very helpful. Thank you!
Gstegman
10 W
So I decided to start contemplating the wiring and found something I didn't like. The wiring from the QS205 already had plugs much to my surprise. 6 wires from the motor with a plug that matches the Sabvoton 72150 I received however the matching plug on the controller only has 5 wires! The missing wire is silver which my neophyte brain understands to mean I won't be able to monitor temperature?
Am I correct in assuming the extra plug is secondary hall sensors not required at this time? Any help is appreciated because I am either bummed or confused, both of which suck.
View attachment 1
Am I correct in assuming the extra plug is secondary hall sensors not required at this time? Any help is appreciated because I am either bummed or confused, both of which suck.
View attachment 1
2WheelsMovesTheSoul
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2017
- Messages
- 197
Yes, the QS 205 comes with dual hall sensors on two plugs. This is normal, the 6th wire is for the thermo-resistor.
According to some Sabvoton manuals the controller should have a yellow-white wire that you connect to the clear 6th wire on the QS.
According to some Sabvoton manuals the controller should have a yellow-white wire that you connect to the clear 6th wire on the QS.
Gstegman
10 W
Thanks but upon more review the plot thickens. The other plug from QS looks like a 2nd thermo-resistor and some other stuff:
Orange
Grey
Brown
Thermo
Light purple
White
After some poking around does it translate to:
Orange-E-lock (switched to battery +)
Grey- Throttle
Brown - Antitheft
Thermo - Thermo
Light purple - High Brake
White - Reverse Signal
Out of the controller I have a DIN or round multi-pin connector for Throttle, Display, and Brakes.
If am am following the correctly, for the two connectors from the motor, I will plug one in directly (but not have temp sensing) then use the orange wire from the other plug and ignore the rest. Since the only thing out of the 72150 is a USB, the din plug, the three wire connector you disconnect for programming, and the first connector missing the 6th wire.
This means I don't see how regen or temp is supported by the flavor of controller I received?
Orange
Grey
Brown
Thermo
Light purple
White
After some poking around does it translate to:
Orange-E-lock (switched to battery +)
Grey- Throttle
Brown - Antitheft
Thermo - Thermo
Light purple - High Brake
White - Reverse Signal
Out of the controller I have a DIN or round multi-pin connector for Throttle, Display, and Brakes.
If am am following the correctly, for the two connectors from the motor, I will plug one in directly (but not have temp sensing) then use the orange wire from the other plug and ignore the rest. Since the only thing out of the 72150 is a USB, the din plug, the three wire connector you disconnect for programming, and the first connector missing the 6th wire.
This means I don't see how regen or temp is supported by the flavor of controller I received?
2WheelsMovesTheSoul
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2017
- Messages
- 197
Gstegman said:Thanks but upon more review the plot thickens. The other plug from QS looks like a 2nd thermo-resistor and some other stuff: Nope, it' not.
After some poking around does it translate to:
Orange-E-lock (switched to battery +) NO!
Grey- Throttle NO!
Brown - Antitheft NO!
Thermo - Thermo Yes
Light purple - High Brake NO!
White - Reverse Signal NO!
I'm trying to tell you... the second plug from the QS is just the 2nd set of Hall sensors.
If am am following the correctly, for the two connectors from the motor, I will plug one in directly (but not have temp sensing) YES
then use the orange wire from the other plug and ignore the rest.NO! it is the 5v positive wire for the second set of halls. If you wire like this: Orange-E-lock (switched to battery +) the 2nd set of halls will be ruined.
This means I don't see how temp is supported by the flavor of controller I received? Most likely. Regen support can be found here: https://laebike.com/blogs/information/76664133-sabvoton-sinewave-controller
Gstegman
10 W
LMAO, Thanks. I really appreciated the .jpg!
Thanks again, got it!
Thanks again, got it!
2WheelsMovesTheSoul
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2017
- Messages
- 197
Gstegman
10 W
More wiring fun. I mentioned that I received a thumb throttle which I do not care for. I purchased a full twist throttle (Not a fan of the red anodized either but oh well).
View attachment 1
The issue with the new throttle is that it came with the wrong gender connector. I thought not biggie, I will just repurpose the connecter from the thumb throttle. Then I started looking closer at the colors relative to their pin position:
Now it seems that neither color or position are standard. Anyone know on these thumb throttles which is signal and which is positive between purple or grey? I did a search on how to supply 5V positive in and run a meter to ground and signal wire and look for .8 to 4.8 out of the throttle but not sure if I will let the smoke out if I supply power to the signal wire as I guess.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
View attachment 1
The issue with the new throttle is that it came with the wrong gender connector. I thought not biggie, I will just repurpose the connecter from the thumb throttle. Then I started looking closer at the colors relative to their pin position:
Now it seems that neither color or position are standard. Anyone know on these thumb throttles which is signal and which is positive between purple or grey? I did a search on how to supply 5V positive in and run a meter to ground and signal wire and look for .8 to 4.8 out of the throttle but not sure if I will let the smoke out if I supply power to the signal wire as I guess.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Gstegman
10 W
I may have solved this...
I took the old throttle apart and looked at the hall sensor and found a SX49E 812. I could not find info on that exect sensor but SS49E and every other has pin one as CCV, then ground.
If thats true purple is positive and I just need to rotate everything counter clockwise 120 degrees.
Anyone disagree with that?
I took the old throttle apart and looked at the hall sensor and found a SX49E 812. I could not find info on that exect sensor but SS49E and every other has pin one as CCV, then ground.
If thats true purple is positive and I just need to rotate everything counter clockwise 120 degrees.
Anyone disagree with that?
Gstegman
10 W
A few updates:
1. I found my meter and validated my theory on the throttle wiring.
2. Anyone considering a Sabvoton 72150 with color screen and "waterproof" connectors please understand it has limited features. It is plug and play to the QS205 but without temp, variable regeneration or an ignition key wire. If this is know to all my apologies, I learned the hard way.
3. Battery from EM3EV is scheduled to be here Thursday!
1. I found my meter and validated my theory on the throttle wiring.
2. Anyone considering a Sabvoton 72150 with color screen and "waterproof" connectors please understand it has limited features. It is plug and play to the QS205 but without temp, variable regeneration or an ignition key wire. If this is know to all my apologies, I learned the hard way.
3. Battery from EM3EV is scheduled to be here Thursday!
shortcircuit911
1 kW
I'm literally learning the same things as you the same way you did.
I dont have a white temp sensor wire (bundled with the halls) on my sabvoton either. Definitely no connections for variable regen, but you can adjust regen current in the MQCON app so it is adjustable in that sense. What also sucks about the screen is that it's only good for displaying power up to 10Kw, then it will read something like 600w until you roll off the throttle.
I had plans to go to a Cycle analyst, but you bring up a good point about no ignition. I wonder if the sabvoton can be hacked or modified so that these features can be enabled.
Glad you get your battery soon.
I dont have a white temp sensor wire (bundled with the halls) on my sabvoton either. Definitely no connections for variable regen, but you can adjust regen current in the MQCON app so it is adjustable in that sense. What also sucks about the screen is that it's only good for displaying power up to 10Kw, then it will read something like 600w until you roll off the throttle.
I had plans to go to a Cycle analyst, but you bring up a good point about no ignition. I wonder if the sabvoton can be hacked or modified so that these features can be enabled.
Glad you get your battery soon.
Gstegman
10 W
Made a little progress, hit another roadblock. Started fitting some brake bits and all went well in the front:
View attachment 1
Got to the back and ran into "the wires rub on rotor bolts/swingarm" issue:
The wires currently run parallel to the swingarm, is it possible to reindex so the wires come out the facing the ground? I really don't want to re-temper the rotor trying to counter sink.
View attachment 1
Got to the back and ran into "the wires rub on rotor bolts/swingarm" issue:
The wires currently run parallel to the swingarm, is it possible to reindex so the wires come out the facing the ground? I really don't want to re-temper the rotor trying to counter sink.
Gstegman
10 W
I am considering reworking the dropouts and would welcome any feedback. I am considering cutting the tabs off so the axle slots are horizontal. Since I have a single speed freewheel this would allow me move wheel back and forth to adjust chain tension. I think having the phase wires exit out the back would allow more room as I would use the slot behind the axle to route wires under swingarm.
I don’t understand why the frame came with verticle dropouts so I must be missing something?
Bad ideal?
I don’t understand why the frame came with verticle dropouts so I must be missing something?
Bad ideal?
Chain tensioning is only reason I would change my dropouts. Or you just do it like everyone else and put phasewires towards the front of the bike/swingarm and use enough zipties at the motor axel and swingarm to make it fit. I have same motor and frame but I plan not to use mechanical rear brake so my wires fit easier. One option is to put washer in the axel to make more clearance. Washer(s) may be needed to modify on one side to make more room for phasewires.Gstegman said:
shortcircuit911
1 kW
Well that's weird about your dropout slots being vertical man. There are a couple options ossivit's solution or a more intrusive route. In our chat you mentioned hacking off the dropouts, and that's probably the way I'd go. This mod will be so much easier of you know someone with a bandsaw, mill, and welder (I'd off to make them for you, but I'm about to go out on paternity leave) . I'd cut the dropouts off, scribe the shape onto a new piece of metal and add the horizontal slots. Cut the profile out on the bandsaw and mill the slot. You already have the axle covers that have a vertical slot so you can reuse those. This is a lot of work that requires lots of tools, if you have them I say go for it, then again I'm a fabricator.
Based off what I can see in your pic above; could you just rotate the wheel 180 so the wire points towards the battery box, then zip tie it away from the bolts at the swingwarm? Where the wires drop down on mine is pretty close to my wires as well, so I added a zip tie to create/maintain a small gap. Maybe countersink the rotor a bit or get under cut machine screws for the rotor. All these little tweaks could add up. Keep us posted.
Based off what I can see in your pic above; could you just rotate the wheel 180 so the wire points towards the battery box, then zip tie it away from the bolts at the swingwarm? Where the wires drop down on mine is pretty close to my wires as well, so I added a zip tie to create/maintain a small gap. Maybe countersink the rotor a bit or get under cut machine screws for the rotor. All these little tweaks could add up. Keep us posted.
HolgiB
10 W
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2018
- Messages
- 70
@Gstegman: Nice ride ! Although I am not so much into those Stealth / Enduro frames I am following your work in progress.
As for the cable problem: This is pretty common with many direct drive hub motors that have a cable output through the axle.
I solved this for my Nine Continent RH205 by cutting out a small segment of a washer to clear out some room for the cable.
But things will get worse when you plan using a disc brake in the rear.
Personally I think you are better off designing & building new horizontal dropouts which leave enough room for the phase cables to exit through the dropout opening itself.
As for the cable problem: This is pretty common with many direct drive hub motors that have a cable output through the axle.
I solved this for my Nine Continent RH205 by cutting out a small segment of a washer to clear out some room for the cable.
But things will get worse when you plan using a disc brake in the rear.
Personally I think you are better off designing & building new horizontal dropouts which leave enough room for the phase cables to exit through the dropout opening itself.
Gstegman
10 W
Thanks for the input. Wish I would have done a test fit prior to ordering my brakes. I have Shimano Deore stuff in hand. I think I am going to give it a whirl without the rear rotor and at least try to get my controller programmed and get a test ride in.
Em3ev battery due here Thurs so I am getting close!
Em3ev battery due here Thurs so I am getting close!
HolgiB
10 W
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2018
- Messages
- 70
I hope that things work out nicely with your rear disc brakes.
While other Enduro type frames often have horizontal dropouts I think that you can run into issues with cable routing and brake discs also.
But they are still way better than trying to fit one of those DD monsters into an average MTB frame.
While other Enduro type frames often have horizontal dropouts I think that you can run into issues with cable routing and brake discs also.
But they are still way better than trying to fit one of those DD monsters into an average MTB frame.
Gstegman
10 W
Thank you EM3EV, Packaging and battery look top notch! I hope to tackle some controller programming this weekend and see if I spin the back tire in a controlled fashion! Thanks for all the help!!!
Gstegman
10 W
Made some progress, ran into some issues. Powered everything up and got the following error:
View attachment 1
It passed the hall test, wheel spins with throttle input. The icon with the error got me thinking about temperature. The app thinks the motor temp is 400C:
I have read a little about using a resistor to spoof the motor temp but my limited number of controller wires are all in use. As always, any help is appreciated because as of now I am stumped.
Thanks!
View attachment 1
It passed the hall test, wheel spins with throttle input. The icon with the error got me thinking about temperature. The app thinks the motor temp is 400C:
I have read a little about using a resistor to spoof the motor temp but my limited number of controller wires are all in use. As always, any help is appreciated because as of now I am stumped.
Thanks!
shortcircuit911
1 kW
So I've been thinking about this for a while, and knew I've seen that error before, then it hit me. I was able to replicate the error you're seeing on your TFT screen. When I program my bike via bluetooth I plug in the usb stick and unplug the 3 wire connector in the picture below. Doing this allows me to see real time voltage of the pack and what not, if its plugged in, I can't see that. Anyway, when I unplug the 3 pin connector in the picture, the tft screen displays that same error. Not sure if this solves your problem, but just wanted to present what I found.
Also, my app says 400 for the motor temp and that doesn't affect motor performance or how much power the controller gives the motor. Ask me how I know that lol.
How's the build going?
Also, my app says 400 for the motor temp and that doesn't affect motor performance or how much power the controller gives the motor. Ask me how I know that lol.
How's the build going?
Attachments
Gstegman
10 W
Yes you are spot on. I was laying in bed right after I posted that and it hit me. I also noticed I don’t have a red light on the controller but nor do I have a green (but USB DONGLE was plugged in).
I got swamped with work but managed to remove the tabs on the controller and am now trying to figure out how I want to stuff the battery and controller inside. I am thinking I might TIG something up to keep the battery weight as low as possible yet clear the bump outs of the sidecovers.
I officially have a roller just need some more understanding on the fine art of Sabvoton programming. Hall test is good, throttle works but havent set anything else.
Thanks for checking in, getting real close!!!
I got swamped with work but managed to remove the tabs on the controller and am now trying to figure out how I want to stuff the battery and controller inside. I am thinking I might TIG something up to keep the battery weight as low as possible yet clear the bump outs of the sidecovers.
I officially have a roller just need some more understanding on the fine art of Sabvoton programming. Hall test is good, throttle works but havent set anything else.
Thanks for checking in, getting real close!!!
@ Gstegman Your build is coming along nicely, I have been following yours and Shortcircuits.
My build is becoming a nightmare... I remember you saying you purchased your wheels/motor from the same aliexpress seller as myself. welllll.. he initially stated he shipped my items on the 8th of October. And if you recall I was worried about a bogus tracking number. almost a week passed and no info on that number , so I write him with my concearns. 2 days pass, and he says sorry, here is a new fedex ie tracking number. Ok I think , as number is now good, and starts moving along ,although it was not shipped on the 8th but now the 16th . ok again , so I think... Today the 18th I get a call from FEDEX themselves. The have a few questions about my purchase from HK. They wanted to know what I bought and more details. As the seller stated on the commercial invoice that 50 (samples of front wheel) and 70 (samples of motor) we shipped and were being declared at a value of $7400.00 USD !!! WTH ?? FedEx said they needed to know what motors, all the details etc and I may be imposed a import fee of 2 grand or something ! FedEx then emailed me copies of the actual photo of the labels and 4 forms to be filled out..including something to do with importing motor vehicles. I emailed FedEx back with all my actual order info with photos and specs from the sellers site. Good grief, this is why I wanted to purchase from somewhere here in the US. There is no way I will pay those fees, and Im waiting to hear from both the seller and FEDEX. If my order actually gets here without execessive fees it will be a miracle, and IF it does not, ill have the nightmare of trying to get my money back from ALIexpress. Which by the way has a time limit.
My build is becoming a nightmare... I remember you saying you purchased your wheels/motor from the same aliexpress seller as myself. welllll.. he initially stated he shipped my items on the 8th of October. And if you recall I was worried about a bogus tracking number. almost a week passed and no info on that number , so I write him with my concearns. 2 days pass, and he says sorry, here is a new fedex ie tracking number. Ok I think , as number is now good, and starts moving along ,although it was not shipped on the 8th but now the 16th . ok again , so I think... Today the 18th I get a call from FEDEX themselves. The have a few questions about my purchase from HK. They wanted to know what I bought and more details. As the seller stated on the commercial invoice that 50 (samples of front wheel) and 70 (samples of motor) we shipped and were being declared at a value of $7400.00 USD !!! WTH ?? FedEx said they needed to know what motors, all the details etc and I may be imposed a import fee of 2 grand or something ! FedEx then emailed me copies of the actual photo of the labels and 4 forms to be filled out..including something to do with importing motor vehicles. I emailed FedEx back with all my actual order info with photos and specs from the sellers site. Good grief, this is why I wanted to purchase from somewhere here in the US. There is no way I will pay those fees, and Im waiting to hear from both the seller and FEDEX. If my order actually gets here without execessive fees it will be a miracle, and IF it does not, ill have the nightmare of trying to get my money back from ALIexpress. Which by the way has a time limit.
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