New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

feketehegyi said:

casainho said:

What is your plan??

Click to expand...

My Arduino and SPI TFT setup is a proof of concept only. A mobile phone connected to TSDZ2 via bluetooth is the best display imho.
If someone has not seen my bluetooth module:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiTuFZmhYbA
Or a live demo with my VOAMCA firmware:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRNlK_30TOA

Click to expand...

Seems the market is going to LCD with Bluetooth.

How do you use tour mobile phone? Do you prefer to use it as a LCD or you just keep it at your pocket while you pedal?

fyi, a graph created by data sent from my VOAMCA firmware. This firmware is actually the same as factory default, I just enabled to send voltage, ampere and cadence values to display and a firm assist level set possibility.
It contains data from a 40Km route.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wptm/voamca/master/40km_volt_ampere_speed.png

casainho said:

How do you use tour mobile phone? Do you prefer to use it as a LCD or you just keep it at your pocket while you pedal?

Click to expand...

I use it as an LCD on the handlebar. It works in the background with switched off screen as well, so you can put in pocket too.

There is a whole host of reasons to use a simple blue tooth module connection between the motor and a suitable mobile phone. The two main ones for me is that I already have waterproof covers and mounts for my Iphone, as I already use it for mapping and route finding. And the other just one display will be needed.

The phone route is a pretty good way to go as they are quite powerful computing wise with lots of memory and some pretty fancy graphics cards on board. We really just need a bluetooth interface board that your average phone can link into.

Waynemarlow said:

There is a whole host of reasons to use a simple blue tooth module connection between the motor and a suitable mobile phone. The two main ones for me is that I already have waterproof covers and mounts for my Iphone, as I already use it for mapping and route finding. And the other just one display will be needed.

The phone route is a pretty good way to go as they are quite powerful computing wise with lots of memory and some pretty fancy graphics cards on board. We really just need a bluetooth interface board that your average phone can link into.

Click to expand...

1. I agree that mobile phones will always be more powerful than ebikes LCDs.

2. I also sometimes need to use phone for route mapping, but not everyday, maybe just 1 time every 2 or 3 months when I travel far from my city. And when I need the route mapping, yes, phone is the king!! But on that situation, I still prefer to have the ebike LCD because my phone is showing me the map and not other things, and I do not want to keep switching apps (yes, I can use 2 apps/dived the screen on the phone screen, but I prefer to not do it).

If we keep out of the equation route mapping and GPS, as far I can remember, the LCDs can give us all the information an app can give. A standalone LCD has the advantage that is always ready, be it on the ebike of my son (that still has not yet a personal phone) or my girlfriend ebike (that she would not want to use his phone for that).
Also when I travel, phone is very important to me and I prefer to have it safe and always working for my security reasons, so I prefer to keep it on pocket and use the ebike LCD.

Also, what happens if your ebike depends of the phone to work and for some reason you lost it/forgot it for some hours?

If we want to merge both worlds, I think LCD + Bluetooth are in the middle. Maybe not a so big LCD on this case.

I'm sorry, my English is bad.
Hello everyone,
is it possible to purely theoretically use the rear hub motor Q128H and the "Bare controller for replace" from pswpower.com and this firmware? In the future, I also want to use the BB torque sensor.

igino said:

I'm sorry, my English is bad.
Hello everyone,
is it possible to purely theoretically use the rear hub motor Q128H and the "Bare controller for replace" from pswpower.com and this firmware? In the future, I also want to use the BB torque sensor.

Click to expand...

Before passing did TSDZ2 work he did open source firmware for KT controllers.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87870
This should work with Q128 and pswpower controller such as KT36/48SVPR-20A or BMS 20A Case-09 or S12S. BMS also sells a torque sensor.

tomtom50 said:

Before passing did TSDZ2 work he did open source firmware for KT controllers.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87870
This should work with Q128 and pswpower controller such as KT36/48SVPR-20A or BMS 20A Case-09 or S12S. BMS also sells a torque sensor.

Click to expand...

Thanks, the S12S controller is too large for my project, I'm trying to modify the S06S. Will it be enough to replace the MOSFET? I will use 36V.

igino said:

tomtom50 said:

Before passing did TSDZ2 work he did open source firmware for KT controllers.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87870
This should work with Q128 and pswpower controller such as KT36/48SVPR-20A or BMS 20A Case-09 or S12S. BMS also sells a torque sensor.

Click to expand...

Thanks, the S12S controller is too large for my project, I'm trying to modify the S06S. Will it be enough to replace the MOSFET? I will use 36V.

Click to expand...

KT controllers are really nice!! They are much more easy to mod and with the OpenSource firmware you have a lot of flexibility. I suggest you to go to the their thread were you will get help from the other users and developers.

When I used KT, I used S06S with torque sensor -- torque sensor is really better for the ones that like to keep bicycle experience.

aja said:

Can someone please help me; I've tried connecting the ST Link to the Speed sensor on the TSDZ2 to flash the firmware to the motor but whatever I do, I get the same Swim comms error; started with cables inc connectors at 9cm and cut them down to 5cm...still doesn't work; spent the whole weekend creating cables then soldering and re-soldering t different lengths; nothings worked. I do have a speed sensor cable but don't want to cut it up if I get the same result as I've followed JB's and Casainho and indeed Eco ebikes instructions but to no avail.
I've flashed the 0.14 hex file to the LCD3 without a problem.

Click to expand...

I managed to finally read the motor firmware.... It was a nightmare!
I do not know for sure but I think the wires on the motor are longer than others or they have some bigger electrical resistance.
Botom line is that I only managed to read the firmware with 10 cm cables(in total!!!) directly soldered into the controler.

Steps:
- Connected wires to swim, reset and ground and connected the pins directly in STlink.
- I have the LCD connected and battery connected
- I power the LCD ON and now I attempt to read the firmware (Thank you casainho!)

=> it works fine

Thank you to those who have suggested ways around my motor controller programming issue; I haven't yet had a chance to go through the ones posted over the last week as doing so on my bike is more time consuming (enclosed recumbent) and I've been busy this week with work and other commitments having lost over 4 days to trying to program it before!
Will have a look later today or tomorrow.
Regarding 'maximusdm' - It would be really helpful if the people who have programmed their motor to work without issue, to post the length of the speed sensor cable coming out of the motor casing; I don't want to cut that cable shorter if it isn't likely to make a difference as that's quite a drastic solution but pleased to hear that it worked for them.

aja said:

Thank you to those who have suggested ways around my motor controller programming issue; I haven't yet had a chance to go through the ones posted over the last week as doing so on my bike is more time consuming (enclosed recumbent) and I've been busy this week with work and other commitments having lost over 4 days to trying to program it before!
Will have a look later today or tomorrow.
Regarding 'maximusdm' - It would be really helpful if the people who have programmed their motor to work without issue, to post the length of the speed sensor cable coming out of the motor casing; I don't want to cut that cable shorter if it isn't likely to make a difference as that's quite a drastic solution but pleased to hear that it worked for them.

Click to expand...

For me is really strange this thing of needing very short cables, as for me work the regular TSDZ2 cables + USB cable extension and I think they did the programming cables like that because they use it on the production programming of the motor controllers, so they should work. Maybe the issue are the computers hardware USBs and/or operation system.

I already programmed 5 different TSDZ2 and 5 different KT-LDC3.

For programing cable I used the LCD cable (motor side connector so it fits).
I was 25 cm long. => error
I made it 10 cm => error
I realy did not want to ruin it (. I checked cable connection and is 100% valid.
Regarding laptop, I run a decent I7/12GB with windows 10. Maybe my STLINK is the problem?

It actually does feel like a motor is working against the rider or rider against the motor, so it seems like it goes slower than it would normally do. That might be the reason for being so exhausted afterwards. Takes the edge of the hills a bit while in turbo mode and first gear though, on the other hand the motor could spin faster, otherwise the whole thing is losing momentum and wasting a lot of energy. This means that it isn't using the full potential of the gears.

Hello! I have 48V 750W TSDZ2 motor with xh18 for normal brake, but now I want to mount it on a bicycle with a Shimano Nexus 8 with foot brake function. How my motor can be reworked to become with coaster brake function. Mechanical or software? Is this posible at all?

Picnic said:

Hello! I have 48V 750W TSDZ2 motor with xh18 for normal brake, but now I want to mount it on a bicycle with a Shimano Nexus 8 with foot brake function. How my motor can be reworked to become with coaster brake function. Mechanical or software? Is this posible at all?

Click to expand...

Hi, if no one replies here, i would suggest you ask the guys at reycles-ebike.com i found them to be knowledgeable and helpful.

Ver 0.14 what settings?

Hi guys,I am completely lost..I am new here ver.0.14 is my first shot.
Where do I have to put in what values in order to get increasing support from the assist levels? In my case it seems not to matter: I am getting the same support even at level 0..although I thought 0 means no support? So, the whole thing could make sense, it is not that it is not working...but what ever level I select, I feel no change..
What is my mistake?
I tried e.g. 200 in 1 up to 800 in 4, 2000 in 5..all the same.
Wattage setting is 750...
I am lost..

Color LCD: Kunteng KT LCD8H VS Bafang 850C

I got the Kunteng KT LCD8H color LCD and here are a picture of the main board:


And a picture of ¨Bafang 850C¨ (http://www.aptdevelop.com) color LCD main board:


The KT LCD is cheaper but also lacks some piece of hardware that is relevant to me: 1. RTC real time clock (although seems the board was development for it, components were not assembled); 2. USB charger. Also, Bafang LCD has 512kb flash memory while Kunteng LCD has half, 256kb.





I can´t understand how a so powerful microcontroller 32 bits 72MHz with 256kb flash memory has a so poor interface, it just replicate LCD3 interface :-( -- seems this companies are just putting fast undeveloped products to market, in this case color LCDs just because seems popular to have a color LCD!!

As for development, the programming/flash/debug header is available the the microcontroller is the same as on Bafang 850C LCD. This are very popular microcontrollers!! very good for development. The big issue is equal to both LCDs, no documentation for which LCD driver is used so until we find out what version is, firmware can simple be developed.

If I had to choose, I would go with Bafang 850C because it has RTC. Also with double of memory, we would be able to implement advanced features for sure.

More pictures and info:
- Bafang 850C: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-850C
- Kunteng KT-LCD8H: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Kunteng-KT-LCD8H

Re: temperature sensors - I've seen some mentions of getting faulty sensors. I did a search and couldn't find the post recommending a good source - are chinese resellers on ebay not to be trusted? Also, is the TMP36 is the same as the LM35DZ? See this amazon listing.

Maybe we should just write an email to bafang, if we are lucky we get some info about the used display/driver.

casainho maybe we can find possible drivers if we have the resolution and size of the display?
can you make a high res picture so we can check the resolution (count pixels).

then search alibaba
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3-2-inch-display-ILI9341-lcd_60740625986.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.71.1c2f55ecnTk93J
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/240-400-TFT-LCD-module-3_60723362281.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.11.46f85546YPUixB

45pin lcd drivers i found:
ILI9488
ILI9481
ILI9327
ST7793
R61529

https://de.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=45pin+lcd

vscope said:

casainho maybe we can find possible drivers if we have the resolution and size of the display?
can you make a high res picture so we can check the resolution (count pixels).

then search alibaba
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3-2-inch-display-ILI9341-lcd_60740625986.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.71.1c2f55ecnTk93J
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/240-400-TFT-LCD-module-3_60723362281.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.11.46f85546YPUixB

45pin lcd drivers i found:
ILI9488
ILI9481
ILI9327
ST7793
R61529

https://de.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=45pin+lcd

Click to expand...

Thanks. I will take that pictures.

For Bafang 850C, I tried to read reg 0 as if is some ILI but I always get a response of 16. If I send read reg 1 I get 17, reg 2 I get 18 and so on. I guess it is not an ILI... I will look at the others datasheet from your list. Thanks.

Just today I saw about Android Auto, a specific version to use on cars with maps navigation, etc.
Why don't we build our own LCD with Raspberry PI Zero W (includes WiFi amd Bluetooth) and run Android Auto??

There is at least someone using Android Auto for his motorcycle...

https://freetime.mikeconnelly.com/archives/40

We could start using Android Auto for ebikes!!

With Raspberry Pi we should easily add/connect custom hardware...

Picnic said:

Hello! I have 48V 750W TSDZ2 motor with xh18 for normal brake, but now I want to mount it on a bicycle with a Shimano Nexus 8 with foot brake function. How my motor can be reworked to become with coaster brake function. Mechanical or software? Is this posible at all?

Click to expand...

The coaster brake version is different controller firmware and is also mechanically different. There is 0 motor lag after you stop pedaling and it does not freewheel at the cranks.

aja said:

Thank you to those who have suggested ways around my motor controller programming issue; I haven't yet had a chance to go through the ones posted over the last week as doing so on my bike is more time consuming (enclosed recumbent) and I've been busy this week with work and other commitments having lost over 4 days to trying to program it before!
Will have a look later today or tomorrow.
Regarding 'maximusdm' - It would be really helpful if the people who have programmed their motor to work without issue, to post the length of the speed sensor cable coming out of the motor casing; I don't want to cut that cable shorter if it isn't likely to make a difference as that's quite a drastic solution but pleased to hear that it worked for them.

Click to expand...

Mine worked first time with 30cm controller cable and 18cm STLINK cable - 48cm total.