new eZip motor

The lady has been sick. Was in the hospital for phenomena in the beginning of this month and is still far from 100%

I have been doing a lot of drinking. Last night was the first night I did not drink this month I think.

Yes I still would like to move. No heat again here. I got an electric heater in the bedroom for Mary (The lady)

I still want to move to where rent is cheaper. I probably won't have any friends if I move to Erie PA. or Cleveland OH but at least I will only be paying 400 to 450 a month rent instead of 650.

I will probably be finishing the push trailer project soon hopefully. The little 500 watt motor and trailer I threw together with scrap wood is an experiment to see how it will ride. I never had a push trailer.

If it works out well I will eventually be building a good one for the 1,800 watt 48V brushless motor and then building a 16S 60 volt 8P pack for 40+ mph. Thanks.

LC out.

I wish you would get away from that chain drive, it's not as efficient as a hub drive or a belt. A belt is still a lot of work to get them lined up and tensioned as needed.
As I said before I ran #35 chain and went to cog belt and saw a difference in performance and reliability. It cost more but when your racing money is the last thing on your mind.
Before you go and get that 1800 motor look at a good hub motor or at least a cheap DD hub motor, like Sunder sent you. A rear one not a front as they are scarry if you put and power to them.

Dan

Before you go and get that 1800 motor look at a good hub motor or at least a cheap DD hub motor, like Sunder sent you. A rear one not a front as they are scarry if you put and power to them.

Click to expand...

In the past year to 18 months I have posted quite a few times on the geared hub motor and Easy street. I wish I got that e bike-ling motor in a 26 inch wheel. Those motors were 134 bucks with free shipping but went up to 174. I got much respect for the power and efficiency of a geared motor vs a direct drive for daily commute.

However and unfortunately The skinny 700cc hybrid wheel suffered 2 flat tires in a month and was de commissioned and sits in a storage unit . I will need very high quality tires which are difficult to penetrate. Also really good tubes. With snow soon coming it seems like a waste of 150 bucks to get the tires and tubes I need. I need 26" mountain bike tires.

The thing I don't like about hub motors is if the wheel gets bent it requires a machine to fix like the direct drive motor Sunder sent. There is no bike shop in NY that I know of which will fix it. Also direct drive are typically double the weight of geared hub motors.

I have two or three 26" mountain bikes I would love to put two 500 watt e bikeling geared hub motors on for all wheel drive commuters. They have plastic gears and planetary gear reduction. Hills will wear the gears out quickly but two motors and pedal assist will dramatically reduce wear and tear on the gears.

Some people actually put a metal gear but only one replacing one of the plastic gears. It creates more noise and is questionable if it really helps in my opinion. I feel it is a foolish decision and a waste of time. My solution cost twice as much as a single motor but makes much more sense.

Two e bikeling 500 watt motors weigh in at about 8 pounds total. The 1,000 direct drive at least 12 pounds I think. It is a lot of drag pedaling with direct drive vs Geared hub motors.

https://www.ebay.com/i/312058788232?rt=nc&var=610800250060&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3De55eec07263c4cd4946b0d9570c86d6c%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D312058788232%26itm%3D610800250060

I wish the price did not go up. Should be able to use a single thumb throttle. Dual motors are not a new concept to me as I already built two of them.

The dual motor 20" Turbo bike sports a 20" 800 watt hub motor on the front and a 1,000 watt 48V Unite chain drive on the back. Both motors have their own 36V Chinese controller. The brakes rub and squeak but surprisingly work but will need upgrades. New pads being the most important.

The Currie direct drive is a chain drive and has proven to be my most reliable build and has been the most rode e bike I own and is on it's third motor. I weigh about 240 pounds and It climbed crane st. hill at 40 volts. 10S - 6P Samsung packs. I got a good 23 mph start and pedaled hard but made it.

As I said before I ran #35 chain and went to cog belt and saw a difference in performance and reliability. It cost more but when your racing money is the last thing on your mind.

Click to expand...

I would love to have the links for the motor pulley and the belt for a rear sheave.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-sheave-fits-whizzer-cruzzer-and-others/302570261852?hash=item467297cd5c:gQUAAOSwFb5aOG8Y:rk:1f:1&frcectupt=true

Please send a link. I called Staton parts at least 5 times and always got a recording.

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/

If I get the parts I can build a belt drive and would love to give it a shot.

I have never built a push trailer. I don't know if it is capable of climbing hills that good. Not sure but bet it will haul some ass on the flat. Maybe I should build a push trailer with the FX 75-5 motor. Thanks.

LC out.

In all my years tweaking every last milliwatt of power out of the Cute Q100 series of motors, I never damaged or even wore the nylon gears.

I wore clutches and burned windings, but unless you got airborne with a geared hubmotor, I don't believe you will have any trouble with the nylon gears.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnGABQ0dBqo

I watched that video and saw in the video that after a few years of usage the plastic gears were in remarkable good condition so yes I will agree to that. It is why I do not see why people waste their time putting noisy metal gears in a super quiet motor like that.

I do however feel that it will be less strain on small geared motors to run dual motors and controllers with a single thumb throttle if possible. I am looking to definitely order two more motors like the one I have on my 700c hybrid but for a 26" mountain bike.

If I had the extra money I would definitely order a MAC motor.

As far as the direct drive which has a bent wheel, no bike shop anywhere near me will touch the wheel because it has a motor on it. However if anyone knows of any bike shop which will fix the bent rim I would be willing to ship it there and have it fixed if the price is not too steep.

It should not cost more than 20 bucks to put it on a machine as it is not that bent. I just don't want to ride it and make it worse. 40 bucks total to ship there and back and 20 to fix so between 60 and 70 bucks it would definatlly be worth doing if anyone knows where.

Also I need good tires and tubes that do not go flat like the garbage tubes I bought twice at Wall-Mart. I want to fix up my 700c hybrid bike with the 500 watt e bikeling motor. I miss riding that.

I am looking for tires and tubes which will last a long time without having to pay 50 bucks or more a tire and 20 each for good tubes. I would like to get two tires and tubes for under 100 bucks. Please let me know. Thanks.


LC out.

In most cases a flat tire is that the air pressure is low and hitting a pothole/curb causes a "pinch Flat". Low tire pressure also causes more drag which uses more energy. Also with added weight a low tire is more likely to pinch. I hit a curb the other day and I had sworn I had a flat coming or at least a bent rim. If I was running lower tire pressure I would of had one.
https://www.amazon.com/Continental-...0c+tires,aps,198&sr=8-7&ref=sr_1_7&th=1&psc=1 Not too bad a tire with puncture resistance. https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-910...92&sprefix=700c+tub,aps,382&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5 self-sealing, (maybe). So there are a lot of choices if you look. That is a short search for my wife's bike which is close to yours. I don't know the vavle type you have but I have drilled out the Presta valve rims to the common Schrader valve type.

I thought the Sunder wheel just had a broken spoke. Not a bent wheel. there are many UT videos how to replace them. It does take a little time and work to do it. I have done it on the bike but easier to take the wheel off, tire off replace the spoke, tighten it then put back on the bike to tru it. Knowing that you are stubborn, I'm sure you can fix it if you want.

Dan

I thought the Sunder wheel just had a broken spoke. Not a bent wheel.

Click to expand...

I replaced the spoke. The bag of spokes you sent were the right size.

The rim is bent in a way that tightening up the spokes with a spoke wrench can't fix it.

When spinning the wheel it is not bent from left to right. There seems to be a high spot in the rim so is bent vertically. Not horizontally. There is some shake to the bike when riding it.

Not sure if it would be possible to fix even at a bike shop. I am hoping that Easy street with the skinnier rim is not bent that way also but won't know until I fix the flat and ride it.

Thanks.

LC out.

As the hub motor turns and the Lipo Fire turns


Winter is here.

Got put on my back. horizontal on road in front of Burger King at 5:45 Am.

Currie e zip trails with about 15 beers in me trying to get breakfast.

Lots of thumbs up from me when I got help standing up. About an inch of snow and made it back home about 1.3 miles up a couple little hills after I ate.

I really know what you all said was true about front wheel motors.

Would never made it with one of those. The Currie e zip Trails has the rear chain drive gear reduction motor and got me home .

Slip sliding away was a song which was what was in my head on the way. I will never run a front drive in the winter. Mabye not run anything in the snow period. It is a health hazard. Thanks.

LC out.

A health hazard? What does 15 beers do? they are the hazard. Snow and beers will kill you walking or riding. Slow down on the beer and think about what just happened.

To ruin your day, I road 43 miles yesterday in 82 temps and NO SNAOW :lol: I will not drink and ride since, it's much harder to balance 2 wheels than riding in a 4 wheel. I know you won't stop drinking but we can still talk about it.

Any news on the move?

Dan

Thank you Dan. i was wondering about the studded snow tires that DA runs. Doug said use a front hub motor.

I said Hell no. That would be a horrible idea in the snow. I am just wondering if I bought a couple boxes of machine screws and try to make my own set of snow tires how it will ride if there is no snow ?

Around here in NY state the roads can be totally dry and an hour later two inches of snow so if I were to go downtown how would the bike ride with all those screws sticking out of the tire ? I am curious about that.

As far as moving is concerned I guess it won't be until sometime after Christmas. My room mates are still living here and everyone is getting along a lot better than earlier on in the summer.

Doug's girl friend works a full time job and offered to hand me 500 bucks when her taxes come back if we (Mary and I ) let them stay until February so that the kids can have a Christmas.

Since the original reason for them to stay was to keep a roof over a 5 year old boys head so he don't get put in a group home due to the fathers homelessness I guess it sounds like a good idea.

Also Mary and I can maybe afford a Christmas present for us on Black Friday or Cyber Monday when 55" TVs go down to around 200 bucks and 65" sets around 300 bucks.

I am looking for active HDR though (High dynamic range) Basically I would like DAs or anyone else's opinion on today's TV specs. and standards. From what I have read 4K means about nothing and can't even tell the difference unless you are sitting about 2 feet away from the screen.

However a set with good WORKING Active HDR will make a very big difference as ant film where is is shot with not a lot of light or in the dark or at night you can see a huge difference in the textures and is much more defined and clearer.

I do not think that there is any HD TVs with that feature. I believe that HDR is only an option on some of the 4K TVs but not all models or name brands. I really do not want to spend much over 300 bucks for a set so would rather have a good 55" with ACTIVE HDR than a 65" TV WITHOUT it.

Also I would like to know the difference between HDR and Active HDR. I bought a set for 249 bucks on Wall-Mart .com about three years ago that was advertised to have HDR. Not only did the HDR NOT work but the screen was blurry and pixels / distorted in dark scenes.

I called the manufacturer about 3 times and was told it was a software update and they could send the software to my e mail and I could fix it with a flash drive. It never happened. With Tax and a four year warranty I paid over 300 bucks and sold it this summer for 80 bucks. I am watching a 32" screen now and Mary has a 40" in her bedroom.

I want a bigger TV for the living room so any expert advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

LC out.

I don't know about what you are talking about. All I know I have a 75" Samsung NOT 4k and all I get is WOW what a picture. Buddy back north bought 4k set and says mine is still better. Buy cheap and you get what you pay for. Knowing that money is tight, you buy what you think will please you.
As for studded tires is that they are not to ride much on dry roads or they will push the screws back into the tire if they don't wear off the screws. DA has a whole thread about them. Search studded snow tires. It's more like sheet metal screws not machine screws. I had thought about it up north but no need any more. 93 today and I went 54 miles but had some problems. It's a real bitch pedaling a 80lb bike in that heat. Mostly flat roads but still a few hills. I'm sure glade I don't drink, it would of been a real bummer.

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

As for studded tires is that they are not to ride much on dry roads or they will push the screws back into the tire if they don't wear off the screws. DA has a whole thread about them. Search studded snow tires.

Click to expand...

That is exactly why I do not understand how these studded tires work and did not read the entire thread.

It makes no sense as you would need to keep changing the tires from dry roads to snowy or icy roads.

Like I said the roads here in NY can be bone dry and covered with snow in 1/2 hour. No way I am changing tires that many times especially with a motor hooked up to a chain drive.

However with a Hub motor it could work but would probably not want to run a derailleur or pedal chain and would need two hub motors for back wheels. That would be double the money for the build and would need to haul two wheels around with you where ever you go.

Anyway This could be my next build. I am thinking about a cheap direct drive on the back as those geared hub motors are about 30 bucks more but not sure yet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1000W-Electric-Bicycle-Cycle-E-Bike-26-Rear-Wheel-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Motor/112689873572?epid=7005510572&hash=item1a3cd702a4:g:Y58AAOSwgQdbxY1X:rk:2f:0

http://prntscr.com/liidvv

Believe it or not I would rather have another 500 watt GEARED hub motor like the one on easy street but for a wider 26" wheel than a 1,000 watt direct drive because of the weight difference and drag of the direct drive larger motor however they are all sold out and is questionable if the company will be making more and especially for that price. That really sucks.

I was going to sell the bike for 100 or 150 bucks but Doug says that that is the best and strongest frame I own and would be strong enough for a 1,000 watt MAC motor and would work up to 2,000 watts. Obviously a rear motor kit NOT front. Not sure if MAC makes front but I agree that anything over 500 watts geared or 1,000 watts direct drive is NOT suitable for the front.

I would like to get opinions here on ES about whether this bike frame is good enough for running a MAC at 2 kilowatts next summer . I will post the specs. on the bike.

I do not see a lot of information on it but Doug says the back end is pretty beefy and much stronger than the Haro V3 I have. He said about 750 watts is the most he would put on the back of that and said the front is stronger on the Haro then the back and said a 500 watt geared hub motor like is on Easy street that they no longer make is what he would do for the Haro V3.

That is why I want to know about the Giant boulder se. Is it a 40 mph bike with a 2,000 watt hub motor or not ? Please let me know and all posts and opinions are appreciated as I do not want to do anything really stupid and other than a few wipe outs at low speeds I have not yet been seriously hurt.

I already know that most of you will say that 40 mph is NOT recommended. However if there were a zombie apocalypse and your life depended on it which bike would you all choose for a 2,000 watt MAC. The Haro V3 , The clear creek Schwinn, A 27.5" mongoose , A 26" Schwinn Ranger , or

the Giant Boulder SE. 2008 - 2009

double wishbone lower

tail bone upper

double butted 7005 aluminum double crown tig welded

Tetris plate drop out.

specs. courtesy of my friend Doug. Computer and bicycle expert.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire burns.

I have been saving money to move. I did not get a black Friday TV. I will have the money after the first of the year to accomplish it. I got 600 bucks put away now. I would love to blow it all on a MAC and 60 volt battery pack but will have to wait until after I get my new apartment.

I have been running the Currie two to three times a week downtown and also to Wall-Mart and Hannaford. for groceries.

The battery packs including the one I built have been working great also. I still have to tighten up the chain about once a month but takes less than 10 minutes. I simply use two 9/16 wrench and a small hammer and loosen the bolts and tap on the wood a little until the chain is tight and then tighten the bolts down.

I miss building e bikes and battery packs but simply do not have the extra money until after I do this move. Ohio is still my destination. E bikes are legal but need to register them from what I read. The difference from NY state is there you are allowed to register them but in NY you are not. Thanks.

LC out.

PS. Just got back from Price chopper with the Currie. I got three pounds of fish fried and french fries for 20 bucks and change. It has been years I think since I had fresh fish. It was pouring down rain and put a small plastic bag over the motor and a large one over the front to keep the batteries , controller and wiring dry. The currie is basically waterproof.

I hope everyone had a happy Thanksgiving. Ours was not that bad. We had good food and no arguments. :lol: Thanks.

LC out.

Glad you're still posting. I haven't been on in about 3 weeks, so good to see you're still around.

I haven't touched my big LTO batteries in the last 6 weeks either. Lost the passion for anything except unwinding when I get home. Work level has dropped off, but energy hasn't recovered. I'm paid well, but they take their pound of flesh.

I've got 5 weeks off over Christmas. We get something here called "Long Service Leave". Once you've been at the same work place for 10 years, you get a once off 10 week holiday on top of your normal holiday pay. I'm taking 5 now, and 5 next year. I got 3.5 weeks going up the coast, and 1.5 at home. During that week, I'm going to try to get a fully managed 60S LTO battery in the proper containers. If I am still not in the mood for it, I might just sell the battery to the highest bidder, I might get half back.

I bought myself a new PC using a bit of a bonus. 8086k, 16gb of 3200Mhz RAM, 1080Ti, Gaming motherboard, and commercial water cooling system. Yes, it's one generation old, but both Intel and Nvidia released items with tiny improvements, but big price hits. Still goes like the clappers. Puts me in the top 1% of computer builds according to benchmarks (at least it does when I overclock it).

Glad your thanks giving went well. We don't celebrate it here, but it's a good concept.

Did you see the Giant on my last post.

I was wondering if I should put a MAC motor and 60 volt controller for 40 mph.

I was told it is a really sturdy frame.

Wont be able to afford it until summertime but just curios.

Please let me know when you can. Thanks.

LC out.

lmost every bike can handle that motor with proper torque arms. It is still aluminum and without GOOD TA's can fail if you put too much power to it. A 8turn MAC with 60v will do 40mph with little problem. The concern is the rider! Will you be able to hang on when you hit a small bump? No rear suspension at 40mph is a real hard ride and even worse when you hit a can, bottle or even worse a pothole. 40 is fun for a while, like 10 or 20 seconds, then you realize you aren't riding a motorcycle but a flimsy bicycle!

Yes it can do it but don't waste you money. A MAC is a great motor but why not a cheap DD at 60v? They will kill you just a s easy for less money :lol: :lol: :lol:
I can still do that but not as much fun as it was the first few times. Roads here are like glass compared to Chicago but still have bumps and branches that are real bad at that speed.

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.


https://electricbike-blog.com/2016/03/26/ivars-the-destroyer-sondors-diy-2600w-awd-12t-mac-1871-74lbs-with-12-5-ah-25r-battery/

I am no longer obsessed with chain drive motors for e bikes. I have learned the difference and find that build very impressive these days.

Yes. I could and probably will get another 500 watt e bikling motor. I think they restocked them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ebikeling-36V-500W-Geared-Rear-Front-26-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion-Kit/312058788232?hash=item48a8273988:m:m9eaXq76NS3UR6bzZVYpsNA:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!12303!US!-1:rk:2f:0

I have a mongoose 27.5" bike which has disk brakes front and rear. I think it is a Mongoose. Not sure.

the pedal gears also work and the bike is pretty much brand new but not a high quality bike like the Giant.

The giant will see 40+ mph with a 1500 watt MAC motor pushed to 2,000 watts and 60 volts. However that will be this summer with the giant.

I feel like building the 27.5 inch bike which according to Doug works with 26" wheels because the brakes are disk front and rear.

Smaller and about 1/2 the weight for the same wattage direct drive and at least 30% more torqe per watt impresses me as well as the freewheel zero drag deal. Also the low profile look due to the smaller motor makes it stealth for places where e bikes are not legal. thanks guys for posting and teaching me this. this forum is awesome.

LC out.

I ordered it.

Basically I will be renting an apartment sometime in January in Cleveland Ohio. I do not know the neighborhoods there or how the police operate. I know any electric bike is supposed to be registered there.

i am not wanting to run the currie there as the motor is obvious and if the chain does come loose and fall off in a bad neighborhood while apartment searching that could put my life in jeopardy.

i will be traveling light and only room for one bike and do not want to take either of the 20" chain drives as those are obvious that they are electric.

The bike I am putting the motor on has disk brakes that totally hide the motor. I will put lights and reflectors on it as well as a rear view mirror. This will be the last build here in NY state and for at least 6 months until I am settled in there and learn the area and the way the police operate. Thanks.

LC out.

12/4 2018


Two days left until delivery.

I am wondering how many steep hills there are. The population is greater than 3 times that of Albany NY with over 380,000 people. Albany is only 98,000.

I ordered a rear hub motor. I wrote the seller and also told the seller I need it disk brake compatible. I am pretty sure I checked for a rear motor but asked the seller to be sure.

I am thinking that if there is a lot of steep hills I should order a front motor also for better hill climbing. First though I want to check out the city and find out if the police are enforcing the e bike law there for Ohio which states each bike must be registered.

If there are a lot of home made chain drives rolling around then I will know that I can ride any of my bikes there and wont need a second motor on my new build. Also if there are gas powered motor bikes rolling around with no plates on the back I will know i can run any of my builds.

I know for a fact that gas powered bikes around here in the capitol district only last a few days or maybe a week and they disappear. I have witnessed that many times. basically the loud noise and lack of pedaling is a dead giveaway.

I pedal and my motors are not loud so have not really been harassed here. One time in over 5 years when I was downtown the cop made me get off and walk. I was also on the sidewalk which was a no no. Thanks.

LC out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Another e bike. 8)

Package delivered.

Yea.

My first rear hub motor kit. Same motor as Easy Street but for the back.

I am really glad I could help out the company. Was 40 more than the one on Easy Street but still the best bang for the buck in geared hub motors in my book.

Most geared Hub motors are only 350 watts and they want about 200 more than what I paid for this. As long as they keep their price under 200 bucks I will always highly recommend to anyone wanting an electric bike to buy one of these 500 watt kits.

I constantly get people asking me if I can build them an electric bike when i ride around with my custom chain drives.

I always give the same reply. Order a geared hub motor. Unless you are mechanically inclined and like to do things the hard way. I say that you can install it yourself in about an hour.

Also I say unless you do a lot of uphill one of these 500 watt e bikeling motors is perfect. If a lot of up hills I say a 1,000 watt direct drive is better or order two of these e bikeling motors for front and rear. I might still do that if I find I need to travel up hills every day when I move.

I will post more pictures when I finish the install later. Thanks and I hope someone will read this post and order an e bikeling kit.

LC out.

12/6/18

11:40 PM

It is a thing of beauty. motor is completely hid by the cassette and disk brake. i won't have to worry about registering it as long as I pedal assist all the time. I am going to get the bike out of storage. It should be done tonight.


12/7/18

Notice the yellow arrow in the bottom picture.The cash-box was the small one Wall-Mart sells for 11 bucks. the rear rack about 15 bucks I think. The rack comes with inserts for different size seat posts.

The insert I did not need I used to protect the wires from the rough edges. I simply cut two slits about an inch and a half down and about one inch apart with a hack saw and bent the metal down against the inside for an almost pertest square when the lid is down and locked.

That also presses the plastic insert down so it will not move. I am not even close to being done as a front rack and basket needs to be installed for the battery bag and two locks. One chain and a second horseshoe lock I need to buy. The weight in the front should even out the weight distribution.

This will NOT be a cargo bike. I have the Currie for that as well as two dual motor 20" BMX bikes both not only all wheel drive but > 1,000 watts and geared for about 20 mph.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONSP-hqqA88&feature=youtu.be

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire burns. The perfect e bike build

I am not bragging that it is the most expensive or fastest here. I am simply stating that when you take into consideration the average cost of a factory e bike fully assembled with a 500 watt motor and capable of at least 20 mph this bike is perfect. All the gears work and both disk brakes will stop the bike down about any hill.

The only obvious upgrade would be a second motor for 1,000 watts if your daily commute has steeper hills. I would not push this up a really steep hill. It does have the pedal gears for pedal assist though so small to medium grade hills are no problem.

The motor on my easy street build is the exact same motor only on a 700c wheel. This wheel is a 26 inch so if gearing is the same then it might be better up hills but 2 to 3 mph slower. I can live with that. I know the 700c wheel went at least 24 mph so this one will do 20+ easily without pedal assist.

It is also bugler proof as the controller is mounted in a cash box with a lock and the battery pack can be unhooked and put in a back pack when the bike is locked up outside for any period of time. Obviously not a good idea to leave out all night in a terrible neighborhood as any lock can be compromised but for shopping or in any public place with cameras such as a public library it is theft proof.

Thanks.

LC out.

latecurtis said:

average.pngAs the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire burns. The perfect e bike build

I am not bragging that it is the most expensive or fastest here. I am simply stating that when you take into consideration the average cost of a factory e bike fully assembled with a 500 watt motor and capable of at least 20 mph this bike is perfect. All the gears work and both disk brakes will stop the bike down about any hill.

The only obvious upgrade would be a second motor for 1,000 watts if your daily commute has steeper hills. I would not push this up a really steep hill. It does have the pedal gears for pedal assist though so small to medium grade hills are no problem.

The motor on my easy street build is the exact same motor only on a 700c wheel. This wheel is a 26 inch so if gearing is the same then it might be better up hills but 2 to 3 mph slower. I can live with that. I know the 700c wheel went at least 24 mph so this one will do 20+ easily without pedal assist.

It is also bugler proof as the controller is mounted in a cash box with a lock and the battery pack can be unhooked and put in a back pack when the bike is locked up outside for any period of time. Obviously not a good idea to leave out all night in a terrible neighborhood as any lock can be compromised but for shopping or in any public place with cameras such as a public library it is theft proof.

Thanks.

LC out.

Click to expand...

Is that thing done and who did it? :lol: haven't ridden it yet, why not? Too cold and snowy? It rained this morning and refilled my pool so I don't need to fill it as needed.

you think it's a Mongoose? Looks nice, can't see the hub and the rear rack and box is also done nice. If it's ready to ride, I have to say WELL DONE. Beat job you have done ever.

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. No where near ready to stop building e bikes.

Thank you Dan.

It is a Kent. Doug said. He looked it up. Easy street is a better brand. Giant Cypress hybrid but had a lot of problems with tubes and tires. Those skinny tires I do not like. three flats in two months so retired the bike. cheap Wall- Mart slime tubes. It needs better.

I had to take off the 27.5 inch wheels 650B to put the 26 inch wheels on this new build. (the kent) I really would like to put them on easy street but would need custom spokes and rebuild the wheel to put the e-bikeling hub motor from the 700c wheel to the wider 27.5" wheels.

Also I have a Schwinn Ranger and would like to remove the 1,000 watt direct drive Sunder sent from the Clear creek wheel if I can't fix it as it has a high spot on it and the spoke wrench did not help it. So would then need to rebuild that wheel also for another re-build.

The Haro V3 has the original Currie rack on it which was my first re-build on the first 10 to 20 pages on this post. That build lasted about two years of very hard riding and did not have problems with the Chain loosening up like I have with the motor on the Currie now. Only reason it is not still on the Currie is I got stupid and took it off to try and mount it to a 20" BMX bike.

The Haro V3 will get a Currie back Wheel for 120 bucks and a freewheel sprocket and 8 mm chain and 1,800 watt brush-less motor mounted almost exactly like I did the 1,000 watt Unite to the Currie on my first build.

I will then need a custom 60V battery pack and pair of 60V controllers. one for the Haro and a second for that Giant Boulder. That will be my first Mac motor also for 40+ mph. Thanks again.

LC out.

Very nice clean build. I like it.

I am going on holidays in 2 days time, but when I get back I hope to have a week to focus on my electric motorcycle conversion. As I get more time and energy, I am recovering the desire to work on it.

Thank you Sunder.

I hope it works out for you. As I said on my last post my next thing to accomplish is how to build a wheel. The motor you sent a few years ago still works but hit a bad spot on the road and broke a spoke. I replaced the spoke but bike still shakes when I ride it.

I used a spoke tool to try and fix it but won't work. There is actually a high spot on the rim. It does not wobble left or right. Maybe a machine can fix it. I will call a bike shop and see but probably won't happen in NY state.

I have another Schwinn. I am getting rid of the Clear creek and building a Schwinn Ranger if I can fix the rim. If not am rebuilding the wheel. I will need to lace the motor to a straight 26" rim.

Also Easy street; my 700c hybrid has the exact same motor as this new build only a front hub motor but the rim is too skinny. No luck keeping air in a tube. Also not enough traction. The current build was 27.5 inch wheels but could not get a 27.5 inch hub motor. Only 26 inch so I have a set of perfect 27.5 inch wheels. I would love to remove the hub motor from the front 700c rim and lace it into the front 27.5 inch rim.

My question is : Is it possible or do I need a professional shop to accomplish that. I would like to do that with both hub motors and build them as close as I can to this current clean build before ordering any other motors hub or chain drive. Thanks and please let me know.

LC out.

latecurtis said:

Thank you Sunder.

I hope it works out for you. As I said on my last post my next thing to accomplish is how to build a wheel. The motor you sent a few years ago still works but hit a bad spot on the road and broke a spoke. I replaced the spoke but bike still shakes when I ride it.

I used a spoke tool to try and fix it but won't work. There is actually a high spot on the rim. It does not wobble left or right. Maybe a machine can fix it. I will call a bike shop and see but probably won't happen in NY state.

I have another Schwinn. I am getting rid of the Clear creek and building a Schwinn Ranger if I can fix the rim. If not am rebuilding the wheel. I will need to lace the motor to a straight 26" rim.

Also Easy street; my 700c hybrid has the exact same motor as this new build only a front hub motor but the rim is too skinny. No luck keeping air in a tube. Also not enough traction. The current build was 27.5 inch wheels but could not get a 27.5 inch hub motor. Only 26 inch so I have a set of perfect 27.5 inch wheels. I would love to remove the hub motor from the front 700c rim and lace it into the front 27.5 inch rim.

My question is : Is it possible or do I need a professional shop to accomplish that. I would like to do that with both hub motors and build them as close as I can to this current clean build before ordering any other motors hub or chain drive. Thanks and please let me know.
LC out.

Click to expand...

Why? You can but Why?
Where did you get the 26" frt wheel with disc?
Learning to lace a wheel is a slow learning curve. You need the correct spokes for each different wheel since they are not all the same. You need the EDR of the rim and this helps but still. https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html and a few dozen YT on how to do it.
My Bike Shop up north charges way too much to lach a motor after buying the rim and spokes, So I learned how to do it. At least half ass, they work and I finally broke a spoke after like 3 years.

You have learned a lot more than you thought you could, It just takes time.

Dan