New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

casainho said:
Your opinion for color LCD screens/design

As I can implement everything, I would like to decide a path. Here are screenshots of different main screens of different original firmwares of Bafang 850C display.

What design do you guys prefer for the main screen??

1.


2.


3.


4.


As for configurations, I should go like this and seems all versions of original firmwares does like this. It is a clear improvement over configurations on KT-LCD3:

Great work Casainho! :D

I think the 3rd option is good. This design has more info however is easier to read than the others.

As for configurations. Your idea Will make it easy and straight forward to manage the settings :thumb:
 
mctubster said:
Bartman said:
what also makes a difference is Lekki Buzz bar offset peddles. I bought a 160mm pair as I couldnt get a 170 black pair in the uk. I fitted them and didn't like them for a start. But after using them for a couple of rides I really like them. The 160mm cranks seem to smooth out the motor even more.

Thanks for the tip re these pedals. I just had a look and it looks like the left pedal has an offset away from the frame? As in it spaces you legs even further apart? I want to bring the right pedal in closer to the frame like the Bafang cranks do. Could you please confirm your experience?

Cheers


The left pedal has a 18mm offset, but the right has no offset due to the TSDZ2 being offset to the right. The result is that your left foot and right foot are evenly spaced. I'd like to bring the right pedal in by 5mm, but havent found a solution yet.
 
casainho said:
Your opinion for color LCD screens/design

As I can implement everything, I would like to decide a path. Here are screenshots of different main screens of different original firmwares of Bafang 850C display.

What design do you guys prefer for the main screen??

1.


2.


3.


4.


As for configurations, I should go like this and seems all versions of original firmwares does like this. It is a clear improvement over configurations on KT-LCD3:

Brilliant. Option 1 or2 for me, as I don't like the red colour in option 3. Now if option three had green instead of red ......
 
casainho said:
Your opinion for color LCD screens/design

What design do you guys prefer for the main screen??

I like 3. 1 looks cool but the assist level and other numbers are too small.
 
Option 4. I have used then all except Luna. When viewed at home on a computer screen 4 looks the worst but on a moving bike it is the one that is easiest to see and quickly digest the information. That model comes with both a digital which is the mode shown or an analogue graphical display (same as option1) selection option anyway.


It would be a nice touch to be able to programme in our own Logos too.
 
850 C:

Is my understanding correct, that original FW allows switching between modes 1 and 4? (see attachment)

So in this case I would opt for keeping these options if possible. I think they are good alternatives between a bit more design centered and a bit more information centered displays so that everyone should find himself represented. I personally tend to option 1 e.g.
 

Attachments

  • 850C Specifications.PDF
    767.2 KB · Views: 60
andyme said:
850 C:

Is my understanding correct, that original FW allows switching between modes 1 and 4? (see attachment)

So in this case I would opt for keeping these options if possible. I think they are good alternatives between a bit more design centered and a bit more information centered displays so that everyone should find himself represented. I personally tend to option 1 e.g.
I tested 2 different original firmwares, just one had both analog and digital modes implemented, other one says on manual that will be a future implementation. Maybe I will start with analog because I need something quick to implement but later we should go also for an analog we like. I wish we could get the help from a designer...
 
casainho said:
Your opinion for color LCD screens/design

As I can implement everything, I would like to decide a path. Here are screenshots of different main screens of different original firmwares of Bafang 850C display.

I have had a 850c on a Bafang for 9 months and used display 1 and 4. I prefer the style of display 1 because it feels cleaner although I question the circular graphic, it adds to to design but doesn't do anything meaningful.

I would like to table the Garmin style display too, on their larger cycling computers they give you layout options, eg 5 items with 1 large and 4 small or 6 small items or 8 smaller items for example. The great thing about this is that you choose each data point that is displayed, they are almost all numeric (imho almost all graphical displays require a higher cognitive load then reading a number)

I will mock something up this weekend as an example
 
Some more feedback on the opensource firmware.

Have completed 80KM of commuting on the open source firmware. Wow! - at 33V (ie battery has 20% energy left) the motor is still able to provide 400W of assistance at 60RPM and even 300W at 80RPM!! On my Bafang at 33V no meaningful power at over 50RPM and even the original TSDZ2 at lower voltages was woeful.

Also at higher battery voltages I can spin up to 90-95RPM and still get good power when the battery is above 36V.

Finally the firmware responds how I would expect ... eg I am riding at a steady state pulling stay 200W, if I accelerate hard and take the RPM from 70RPM to 90RPM the motor gives me more power as I accelerate - what you would expect, but not what the original firmware did.

Congrats again for such an improvement over the original firmware
 
@casainho re. KT-LCD8H

I had ordered one before you started investigating publicly on color LCDs...it now arrived...it is not possible to adapt the code from LCD 3 to LCD 8H in a very simple manner? they are probably very similar, arent they?
just asking...
 
matte2k said:
my engine start to behave very strange, sometimes, like every 10th second or so, the engine work for a second even if I do not put force on the pedals, I just coasting and it behave like I put force...

sometimes also when I park the bike and just move the wheel some centimeters it could start. scary when the bike is driving by itself....
any idea? should I change the cable and the magnet on the back wheel? everything looks fine when I am checking the cables.
The very same problem happened to me. The bike would lurch forward unexpectedly, when parking for example...
Sadly I had to send it back (to David, but I bought mine straight from China) for repair. The problem was the torque sensor and I don't know there's anything you can do other than change it. The problem happened to me after just a couple months of using the motor.

Incidentally, the new torque sensor broke on me (different symptoms though, assist completely disappeared) after another couple months of light use. This could be bad luck but I doubt it...
Jean
 
aja said:
Can someone please help me; I've tried connecting the ST Link to the Speed sensor on the TSDZ2 to flash the firmware to the motor but whatever I do, I get the same Swim comms error; started with cables inc connectors at 9cm and cut them down to 5cm...still doesn't work; spent the whole weekend creating cables then soldering and re-soldering t different lengths; nothings worked. I do have a speed sensor cable but don't want to cut it up if I get the same result as I've followed JB's and Casainho and indeed Eco ebikes instructions but to no avail. :(
I've flashed the 0.14 hex file to the LCD3 without a problem.

Today I manged to use cable. The problem was the STLNK clone. I bought a new one and works even with USB extender. Hope it helps you.
I really wish I knew this 1 month ago since it would have saved me a lot of problems!
 
andyme said:
@casainho re. KT-LCD8H

I had ordered one before you started investigating publicly on color LCDs...it now arrived...it is not possible to adapt the code from LCD 3 to LCD 8H in a very simple manner? they are probably very similar, arent they?
just asking...
They are very different. I prefer Bafang 850C over LCD8 because it has a clock to show time and has a USB charger.
 
Daylight savings = lighting question. What are you guys doing for lights? I'd like decently bright lights, but would also like to utilize the simplicity of the build in VLCD5 light button/output wire (it's on our cargo bike which is mainly ridden by my wife). Would love to get input on some thoughts...

1. Are there 6v ebike lights that give decent "see me" brightness? I have a bright battery powered headlight on can throw on in a pinch...don't need a $100 motorcycle quality beam on this bike. This would be the simplest approach.
2. If not #1, could I wire brighter lights direct into the 52v battery (or utilize a DC-DC converter, not scared of some DIY) and use the 6v output in the setup as a light switch? Could even add an arduino to the setup if needed. I would imagine this is possible someway.

TIY!
Gabe
 
gaber said:
Daylight savings = lighting question. What are you guys doing for lights? I'd like decently bright lights, but would also like to utilize the simplicity of the build in VLCD5 light button/output wire (it's on our cargo bike which is mainly ridden by my wife). Would love to get input on some thoughts...

1. Are there 6v ebike lights that give decent "see me" brightness? I have a bright battery powered headlight on can throw on in a pinch...don't need a $100 motorcycle quality beam on this bike. This would be the simplest approach.
2. If not #1, could I wire brighter lights direct into the 52v battery (or utilize a DC-DC converter, not scared of some DIY) and use the 6v output in the setup as a light switch? Could even add an arduino to the setup if needed. I would imagine this is possible someway.

TIY!
Gabe
Hi Gabe,

1. I'm using a very good headlight which was originally designed by Philips. I'm also using lights from Busch&Muller and Supernova. All fantastic lights with a nice cutoff and optics to prevent blinding others.
2. Yes you can and I would advise you to look into this first before going the 6V route. The 6V solution has several drawbacks:
- The TSDZ2 can't deliver enough current for a serious bike light. I have 3W and 4W lights which aren't floodlights of course but they still activate the thermal protection of the TSDZ2 light output driver. In my opinion, the light output of the TSDZ2 is useless.
- You need a DC-DC converter if you want to power 6V headlights from your battery and use the TSDZ2 light output as switch. I'm doing this because I had the 6V lights already.

See my previous posts about this topic:
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
...
I've now also ordered this power control board because it is very small, can switch my battery voltage and should handle the load well. Although it's a logic level MOSFET, 6V control voltage shouldn't be a problem I think.

Should receive it very soon, will let you guys know!

The MOSFET is also really cheap on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-NEW-RFP30N06LE-P30N06LE-30A-60V-TO-220/32835135967.html
My lights are working with the MOSFET above and this DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html

The lights turn on perfect and the motor keeps assisting while the lights are on. Nothing runs hot or even warm. But, the lights don't turn off until I switch off battery power. I must have some phantom power somewhere or the TSDZ2 light output has a buffer (capacitor) and the MOSFET wasn't drawing enough current to empty the buffer during my test. Should be able to fix this soon, will review the firmware as well. I'll post some pictures and a guide soon!

The issue with the light not turning off isn't resolved yet. Maybe the resistor needs a lower value than the current 10k ohm. I don't have a disassembled TSDZ2 controller here so I can't check the light output circuit. Does anyone have more information?

I have quickly drawn a schematic without the DC-DC converter:

HLEecF7.png


Make sure to protect your battery by adding a fuse, I forgot this in the schematic :wink:

And some pictures while assembling the Sparkfun kit:
HLEglg2.png


HLEgwuL.png


Because it's so small I can easily mount it into my battery cradle, to give you an idea (No mosfet in this picture. The blue part is a solid state relay which I was experimenting with, didn't work at all) :

HLEgUxu.png


This is the best light switch option in my opinion. It doesn't run warm at all, wide voltage range, is able to drive enough current, low cost, very small and uses almost no power.
 
EndlessCadence said:
gaber said:
Daylight savings = lighting question. What are you guys doing for lights? I'd like decently bright lights, but would also like to utilize the simplicity of the build in VLCD5 light button/output wire (it's on our cargo bike which is mainly ridden by my wife). Would love to get input on some thoughts...

1. Are there 6v ebike lights that give decent "see me" brightness? I have a bright battery powered headlight on can throw on in a pinch...don't need a $100 motorcycle quality beam on this bike. This would be the simplest approach.
2. If not #1, could I wire brighter lights direct into the 52v battery (or utilize a DC-DC converter, not scared of some DIY) and use the 6v output in the setup as a light switch? Could even add an arduino to the setup if needed. I would imagine this is possible someway.

TIY!
Gabe
Hi Gabe,

1. I'm using a very good headlight which was originally designed by Philips. I'm also using lights from Busch&Muller and Supernova. All fantastic lights with a nice cutoff and optics to prevent blinding others.
2. Yes you can and I would advise you to look into this first before going the 6V route. The 6V solution has several drawbacks:
- The TSDZ2 can't deliver enough current for a serious bike light. I have 3W and 4W lights which aren't floodlights of course but they still activate the thermal protection of the TSDZ2 light output driver. In my opinion, the light output of the TSDZ2 is useless.
- You need a DC-DC converter if you want to power 6V headlights from your battery and use the TSDZ2 light output as switch. I'm doing this because I had the 6V lights already.

See my previous posts about this topic:
EndlessCadence said:
EndlessCadence said:
...
I've now also ordered this power control board because it is very small, can switch my battery voltage and should handle the load well. Although it's a logic level MOSFET, 6V control voltage shouldn't be a problem I think.

Should receive it very soon, will let you guys know!

The MOSFET is also really cheap on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-NEW-RFP30N06LE-P30N06LE-30A-60V-TO-220/32835135967.html
My lights are working with the MOSFET above and this DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html

The lights turn on perfect and the motor keeps assisting while the lights are on. Nothing runs hot or even warm. But, the lights don't turn off until I switch off battery power. I must have some phantom power somewhere or the TSDZ2 light output has a buffer (capacitor) and the MOSFET wasn't drawing enough current to empty the buffer during my test. Should be able to fix this soon, will review the firmware as well. I'll post some pictures and a guide soon!

The issue with the light not turning off isn't resolved yet. Maybe the resistor needs a lower value than the current 10k ohm. I don't have a disassembled TSDZ2 controller here so I can't check the light output circuit. Does anyone have more information?

I have quickly drawn a schematic without the DC-DC converter:

HLEecF7.png


Make sure to protect your battery by adding a fuse, I forgot this in the schematic :wink:

And some pictures while assembling the Sparkfun kit:
HLEglg2.png


HLEgwuL.png


Because it's so small I can easily mount it into my battery cradle, to give you an idea (No mosfet in this picture. The blue part is a solid state relay which I was experimenting with, didn't work at all) :

HLEgUxu.png


This is the best light switch option in my opinion. It doesn't run warm at all, wide voltage range, is able to drive enough current, low cost, very small and uses almost no power.
Please share on wiki!!
 
EndlessCadence said:
I have quickly drawn a schematic without the DC-DC converter:

HLEecF7.png


Because it's so small I can easily mount it into my battery cradle, to give you an idea (No mosfet in this picture. The blue part is a solid state relay which I was experimenting with, didn't work at all) :

HLEgUxu.png

Great post EC! I have been experimenting with this with mixed results too. Am also working on getting everything into the Hailong I battery case as well. I have ordered in a bunch of dc-dc step-down converters that will fit inside and will test them as they come in. As you know the one you are using will not. Haven't tried the mosfet approach so I will be watching. I had bad experiences with solid state relays stuck closed as well but was thinking I may have had the load on the wrong side. Have had better luck with mechanical relays but good ones are pricey. You would think this would be a piece of cake.
 
Rafe said:
Option 4. I have used then all except Luna. When viewed at home on a computer screen 4 looks the worst but on a moving bike it is the one that is easiest to see and quickly digest the information. That model comes with both a digital which is the mode shown or an analogue graphical display (same as option1) selection option anyway.

I agree completely. Anyone that rides without their glasses or has vision problems will prefer 4. I like 3 because it looks good and the assist level is much bigger font than 1.

Rafe said:
It would be a nice touch to be able to programme in our own Logos too.

Yes!!! I do this on the 850C already. It is a nice touch to be able to personalize or brand the display.
 

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    20181105_181138~01.jpg
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jeanl said:
elem said:
https://elementaire01.blogspot.com/2018/10/projet-vae-en-cours.html
some frame modifications for integration ...

Sorry for bragging a bit... :lol:

Was a hell of a job and i cannot recommend to do it. But I am happy I did...

Well, I have alignment envy now!!! My chain isn't close to being aligned the way it should be...

just to confort you: what i did has zero impact on alignment of the chain....it is purely symmetry for the pedals, that's all, but i hated to have these 3-4 cm difference, and it was not only an optical issue.
re. chain line, i did nothing, but i am fine with the way it is, i must say.
 
Hi,

Does anyone know what kind of cable i need for the battery, so i can plug it directly in the motor?

PS.: For a TSDZ2 48V with throttle.

Thank you!
 
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