TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)
- Thread starter casainho
- Start date
jbalat
10 kW
Hey guys I've just been involved in testing and helping with suggestions. Appreciate your offer for but I'm getting just as much out of this as you guys, all kudos to the programmers casainho and endless cadence 
So the lights do work but if they are pulling any kind of current the controller freaks out. The recommendation back a few pages was to hook them up with a relay.
the drag in reverse is there because motor is always energised.
Stancecoke posted how to turn this on and off but the programmers are concerned if the field is turned off while the motor is still spinning it could cause damage to the controller.. I don't think its a big issue because you should be able to do a quick check of motor speed ERPS before turning off the field. The question is when to turn it off ? Is it once the wheel speed goes to zero ??
So the lights do work but if they are pulling any kind of current the controller freaks out. The recommendation back a few pages was to hook them up with a relay.
the drag in reverse is there because motor is always energised.
Stancecoke posted how to turn this on and off but the programmers are concerned if the field is turned off while the motor is still spinning it could cause damage to the controller.. I don't think its a big issue because you should be able to do a quick check of motor speed ERPS before turning off the field. The question is when to turn it off ? Is it once the wheel speed goes to zero ??
jbalat said:Hey guys I've just been involved in testing and helping with suggestions. Appreciate your offer for but I'm getting just as much out of this as you guys, all kudos to the programmers casainho and endless cadence
let's be honest...those who actually create it are getting just the same out of it (the use) and more (the satisfaction) so that is absolutely no argument in your favor :lol: I understand it is difficult to differentiate at some point in time because at the end of the day a question can also be a contribution.
but nonetheless: i think it is absolutely normal to donate to programmers and leading contributors, so whoever has an idea on how to show our gratitude to you 3 guys: i am in.
spiked said:
Lights wiring is fine. There is no voltage on the lighting wire at the plug coming out of the controller, so it appears the 6v converter circuit on the controller board has failed. No big deal - I've got a buck converter I can use to run the lights directly off the battery.
Still haven't ridden the bike yet with the open firmware/LCD3, as it's been too cold here for my old bones...
BrisneyLand
100 µW
Well my ride to work and home today was awesome. A lot better than the stock firmware. I adjusted the levels as per jbalat's recommendations and if anything they still seemed too strong. I was easily able to push 30km/h in L1 on the flat and effortlessly power up hills in L5, so I might drop it as follows:
L1 0.2
L2 0.4
L3 0.7
L4 1.0
L5 1.5
I did enable battery state of charge and set it to display from 100-1, but the reading stays at 100 and does not drop. Any know issues with this?
L1 0.2
L2 0.4
L3 0.7
L4 1.0
L5 1.5
I did enable battery state of charge and set it to display from 100-1, but the reading stays at 100 and does not drop. Any know issues with this?
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
My paypal account for donations casainhoATgmail.com. I plan to use donations to keep buying hardware that is needed for development.
I also found that my pedals rotate backward and that will make pedal cadence value > 0 and also torque sensor value > 0, and this will start to energize the motor... the solution may be to detect backwards pedal rotation and then keep motor off on this situation.jbalat said:
casainho said:
Casainho, could you please list the sensors "triggered by the cyclist" present in the motor? I understand from the discussion that there is:
- torque sensor
- speed sensor
- cadence sensor
Anything else?
This may help anyone without deep knowledge in programming or electronic (but with common sense) to spot a possible solution to the issue.
Just my 2 cents on the backward drag.
I anticipate that I am still on stock firmware as i I am waiting for the brake sensors to finish off the wirings. I realize from the stock firmware that there is a kind of "low cut/min value" in the torque input. In fact, when I am not moving, if I just rest my foot on the pedal I do not feel any assist, but if I press a little more the motor starts.
I assume that the torque input from the sensor while moving backwards is much less than a foot on the pedal, and that's why the motor does not contribute (in the stock firmware which is OK when the bike is pushed backwards).
What if we implement in the open source firmware the following checks (pseudo code).
Given the raw input from the torque sensor (say 0-100), we set a set_min_torque variable (e.g. 5) to be used like this:
If (speed < 6 km/h) and (actual_torque < set_min_torque) then
// Bike is almost stopped and Torque is minimal which can be backwards movement or foot resting on the pedal //
MOTOR_DISABLED
end if
The set_min_torque could be fixed in the code or user variable from the LCD3 setup.
Looks quite easy to me (I'm not an electronic engineer.. I'm civil with some coding experience) so I presume it is much more complicated than this.. what is your thoughts on it?
Thanks
Thineight
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
We have a new option for LCD to control TSDZ2!!
I finish the development of a working version of OpenSource firmware for Bafang 850C color LCD. This is the very first time I got it controlling the TSDZ2 motor. Both the LCD and the TSDZ2 are running our OpenSource firmwares!!
I have an special ride on Saturday, and I decide to take the risk and use this fresh firmware that may have bugs and be a problem while I will be on the mountains...
The firmware is on github. I wrote on wiki the wirings for this new LCD, they way to install the firmware and wire to TSDZ2 is very similar: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-KT-LCD3-to-TSDZ2
[youtube]-eZXLgWD96o[/youtube]
I finish the development of a working version of OpenSource firmware for Bafang 850C color LCD. This is the very first time I got it controlling the TSDZ2 motor. Both the LCD and the TSDZ2 are running our OpenSource firmwares!!
I have an special ride on Saturday, and I decide to take the risk and use this fresh firmware that may have bugs and be a problem while I will be on the mountains...
The firmware is on github. I wrote on wiki the wirings for this new LCD, they way to install the firmware and wire to TSDZ2 is very similar: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-KT-LCD3-to-TSDZ2
[youtube]-eZXLgWD96o[/youtube]
andyme said:
I guess it is just matter of shorting the BRAKE and GND cables along the wire to the controller. The firmware itself already handles the cut-off.. maybe the display does not show the brake symbol yet (also the VLCD5 does not show the symbol but it works anyway)
Any idea about the backward resistance possible solution I wrote 2 posts ago?
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
Yes, brakes connections to TSDZ2 is just the same installation as for KT-LCD3.thineight said:
And LCD shows the word "brake" when I push the brakes.
Firmware is here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/tree/master/Bafang_LCD_850C/Bafang_LCD_850C_firmware
Wiki with technical documentation is here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-850C
For backward resistance, I would implement detection of pedals rotating backwards.
very cute..it is smaller than i expected it to becasainho said:
So are the available sensors capable to detect backwards movement of pedals?
With my suggestion above I assumed that it was not possible to detect the direction of pedaling..
And by the way.. any news from EC? Hope he's enjoying his bike somewhere around...
marinbiker
1 µW
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2018
- Messages
- 2
I wonder if anyone can help with my little problem
i bought the TSDZ2 approx. 2 months ago, Installed it but couldn't get the screen to power up. After some dialogue with elifebike2010 (ebay) They sent a new screen.
I have power, I then adjusted the speed sensor so I got a reading
This is where the issues started
The screen responds and records the speed and when slowing down to approx. 8-10mph I get random spedd figures 64mph, 37mph which immediately cuts the assistance. So when approaching a hill the motor cuts, just when you really need it.
The motor worked fine when the the speed sensor wasn't fully adjusted, last weekend it rode it up the Old Kilpatrick Hill. Very steep long climb, and it assisted me all the way up at differing speeds.
elifebike have accepted my ebay return but i'm sad to have to send it back
Can anyone help
i bought the TSDZ2 approx. 2 months ago, Installed it but couldn't get the screen to power up. After some dialogue with elifebike2010 (ebay) They sent a new screen.
I have power, I then adjusted the speed sensor so I got a reading
This is where the issues started
The screen responds and records the speed and when slowing down to approx. 8-10mph I get random spedd figures 64mph, 37mph which immediately cuts the assistance. So when approaching a hill the motor cuts, just when you really need it.
The motor worked fine when the the speed sensor wasn't fully adjusted, last weekend it rode it up the Old Kilpatrick Hill. Very steep long climb, and it assisted me all the way up at differing speeds.
elifebike have accepted my ebay return but i'm sad to have to send it back
Can anyone help
vreppeto
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2018
- Messages
- 35
jbalat said:
Submersibles fill these brushless motors with mineral oil to compensate for high pressure. For us this would make cooling much more efficient. Encoders might need to be replaced with something more tolerant of oil such as this https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/AMT312Q-V/102-3366-ND/4864246. The video shows a bldc being submerged in oil and the loss of rpm is minimal.
vreppeto said:
Cheapest way to have your mid drive run cool, silent, with strong gearing, walk assist that works, proper throttle control, easy to program and no need to re-program the display is to fit a BBS HD.
I've been running the TSDZ2 52 v version for a year now over some of the steepest terrain and and have never found overheating to be a problem and it's even cooler with Casainho's brilliant FOC firmware. There is already a relatively large surface area of metal to metal contact where the motor inserts into the motor housing to transfer heat away. The major problem with this drive is the noise it makes and the blue gear which can fail without warning, fitting the metal gear ensures you are going to complete the journey without gear failure but it's at least twice as noisy. Now if someone could source a decent hard wearing plastic gear that will last as in the bafang that would be the biggest improvement after Casainho's firmware for this drive possible.
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