TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

Rafe said:
I've been running the TSDZ2 52 v version for a year now over some of the steepest terrain and and have never found overheating to be a problem ... There is already a relatively large surface area of metal to metal contact where the motor inserts into the motor housing to transfer heat away. The major problem with this drive is the noise it makes and the blue gear which can fail without warning

As the (metal) motor shaft is the driving gear to the blue gear, I have wondered if
high motor temperature >> high gear temperature >> blue gear stripping

jbalat said:
Spiked, would be great if we could conduct some heat between the motor and motor casing ? Any ideas ?
Fan is likely easiest *if* it moves enough air. I will be trying this on the bench when a 35mm fan arrives from CN. I have a high current supply that can heat up the motor with DC, so I can accurately measure thermal resistance on the bench with various scenarios:
Factory standard
Motor+fan
Black inside of cover to improve radiation transfer
Black motor to improve radiation
thermal grease/tape between front motor flange and case
 
The stripping of the blue gear is little to do with temperature and all to do with sudden heavy loading. The metal gear attached to the motor shaft is akin to the blades of a grass cylinder mower and slices up the plastic gear if an excessive loading is suddenly applied such as starting from rest on a high assist level or throttle on a steep slope. It's just a poor mechanical design error.
 
Bartman said:
marinbiker said:
I wonder if anyone can help with my little problem

i bought the TSDZ2 approx. 2 months ago, Installed it but couldn't get the screen to power up. After some dialogue with elifebike2010 (ebay) They sent a new screen.

I have power, I then adjusted the speed sensor so I got a reading
This is where the issues started
The screen responds and records the speed and when slowing down to approx. 8-10mph I get random spedd figures 64mph, 37mph which immediately cuts the assistance. So when approaching a hill the motor cuts, just when you really need it.
The motor worked fine when the the speed sensor wasn't fully adjusted, last weekend it rode it up the Old Kilpatrick Hill. Very steep long climb, and it assisted me all the way up at differing speeds.
elifebike have accepted my ebay return but i'm sad to have to send it back

Can anyone help
Your magnet is too close the the speed sensor. Try moving it it further away. Strange how it’s always 64mph. Mine did that too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, that made all the difference. Thanks for responding so quickly. I won't need to pack it up now and send to Germany
 
Rafe said:
The stripping of the blue gear is little to do with temperature and all to do with sudden heavy loading. The metal gear attached to the motor shaft is akin to the blades of a grass cylinder mower and slices up the plastic gear if an excessive loading is suddenly applied such as starting from rest on a high assist level or throttle on a steep slope. It's just a poor mechanical design error.
I agree. Scenario 2 is how I broke mine. But I really can hardly - if at all - tell a difference between blue and brass...and so far I do not need a hearing aid yet.. :D
 
Just a Little question for the developers: what is the main open source file to look at the code?
I see there are a few .h and .c files in the repository.. I would like to look into to see if I understand some of the logic behind this great firmware.

Any suggestion or tip is welcome, many thanks!
 
thineight said:
I would like to look into to see if I understand some of the logic behind this great firmware.

The motor commutation is done in the motor.c

The ebike specific things (processing of PAS-, throttle-, torque-signals, display communication etc...) are done in the ebike-app.c

regards
stancecoke
 
I finally got to ride the bike today under 0.16.0, and am pretty pleased with the performance vs. stock firmware. Kudos to the development team!

I do have a few questions.

- is there any tracking of total distance, over all rides? The odometer seems to zero/reset when I power off, and I can't seem to find any way to display total accumulated kilometers.

- there appears to be no way to set the odometer to miles?

- Some functions of the display don't seem to match up with the descriptions in the documentation. Do the docs need updating?
 
stancecoke said:
The motor commutation is done in the motor.c

The ebike specific things (processing of PAS-, throttle-, torque-signals, display communication etc...) are done in the ebike-app.c

regards
stancecoke

Thanks a lot.. but I'm afraid the learning curve to get into an effective level is definitely to steep for me :(
I understand you are a bit into the programming stuff, did you see my suggestion on how to possibly tackle the backward motor resistance issue?

I would like to fix the major bugs and to complete the base functions before moving to additional features coding.

In my opinion the main points to be addressed, in order to have at least the stock functions, are:
- backwards resistance (bug)
- trip km to be maintained (reset by user and not by switching off)
- walk assist
- main ODO should be set by user if needed (just to keep the total km in case of reflash.. maybe can this be set somehow in data field during the flashing?)

Please correct me if some points above are sorted already, I have not tested the firmware yet but from the discussion I recall these points are still open.
 
spiked said:
I finally got to ride the bike today under 0.16.0, and am pretty pleased with the performance vs. stock firmware. Kudos to the development team!

I do have a few questions.

- is there any tracking of total distance, over all rides? The odometer seems to zero/reset when I power off, and I can't seem to find any way to display total accumulated kilometers.

- there appears to be no way to set the odometer to miles?

- Some functions of the display don't seem to match up with the descriptions in the documentation. Do the docs need updating?

to 1: yes, there is. there is a submenu that can be reached by pushing briefly the up button and IMMEDIATELY thereafter again, but long. when you do this while the trip distance is being displayed (the one that resets to zero when off) this will bring up the ODO field with total km. but it will not stay visible once you exit this field. it is not a selection toggle. there are other values that can be shown in this manner when pushed while other info is shown. jbalat has mentioned which ones some posts ago in probably this thread.

to 2: i don't think so

to 3: yes...
 
Rafe said:
The stripping of the blue gear is little to do with temperature and all to do with sudden heavy loading. The metal gear attached to the motor shaft is akin to the blades of a grass cylinder mower and slices up the plastic gear if an excessive loading is suddenly applied such as starting from rest on a high assist level or throttle on a steep slope. It's just a poor mechanical design error.

This actually implies a potential electrical / software fault.

As (I assume) the motor is current limited, the maximum torque at zero or at mid cadence should be the same: set by the current limit. There should be no difference in the condition of applying max torque from stop, or applying max torque when moving (well below max cadence).

Thus (in theory) the blue gear will strip any time under heavy load - startup is not a special condition.

If indeed it does happen specifically at start, this suggests that there is something wrong with the current limiting allowing excess current -> excess torque at this time.
 
You are forgetting about mass and inertia, at standstill there is max torque with no ability to transfer that into motion momentarily, once rolling some of that torque is immediately transferred into forward motion which limits the amount of torque on the gears.

Also consider that max torque is at or around zero engine rpm, once rolling the rpm is up and you won't be getting any where near max torque.
 
I was doing a review of an article someone is writing for a famous DIY bicycle website. I had to wrote a lot of things about our OpenSource firmwares and I decided to share here because it has some good details, because there are so much details that I think is difficult for some users to understand. Here are my notes:

---

"There are only a few companies that will sell a TS kit (Lingbei, Xofo, etc), and the TSDZ2 is not only the most available, it is also the most popular." AND THE MOST CHEAP!!!

Like KT motor controllers, that are very cheap, like 20 euros for the cheapest controller, TSDZ2 motor is the most cheap motor, INCLUDING the all parts!! See that for instance a TSDZ2 motor controller costs only 30 euro while Bafang motor controller costs like 150 euro!!!

For me as a developer and as an user philosophy, I want parts cheap and easy to repair products, that is a question about being green/good for environment.

Temperature sensor is OpenSource firmware only
When you talk about the temperature sensor, you must first talk about the OpenSource firmware because we did develop it on our firmware as the original firmware does not support any motor temperature sensor!!

I believe that what cuts off the motor power on the original firmware, are the hall sensors because they get to hot first, since they are very near the motor coils (and the part that get's hot faster as seen on the burned motor picture). The issue is that I think the hall sensors cut at like 125 degrees and the motor will get demagnetized slowly and the motor looses torque forever but user can't see that happening....... so user will get a damaged motor without knowing why it is getting weak.

Our OpenSource firmware adds A LOT of value to this motor, I will use a list to point some features of our firmware:

FOC: I implemented FOC on our firmware (is what the implementation possible on the very resources limited STM8 chip). The result is that users do report that motor has higher torque and heir batteries has higher trip range!! -- I guess the original firmware does no implement FOC.

Feedback from experienced users:
- the TSDZ2 now feels more like the Bosch motor
- the motor is more efficient, stronger, it's feel like I have a new motor
- the bike feels very responsive and is very fast and agile whenever you need it to
- this is GOLD. I still have a smile on my face

Much better LCDs: KT-LCD3 and Bafang Color LCD
The original firmware and LCD are very limited, like they don't show to user the battery volts, motor power!! There are no way to know battery volts using original firmware which is really sad!!

As you know and think you really need to talk on the article, OpenSource firmware as also developed to KT-LCD3 and Bafang Color LCD (although this is on early development stage but I use it already on my bicycle). On this LCDs we show to user all the system information variables like battery voltage AND EVEN users can setup things like BATTERY number of cells/voltage, battery low voltage cut-off (original firmware seems to have a fixed high value so users were reporting batteries were not being fully discharged/getting max range), max current, etc.

You see, you can configure in real time the system, on the field, without any PC or such. You can simple switch batteries while riding on long trip and exchange differing batteries packs voltages, etc. I do this myself!!

Video of Bafang Color LCD, running our OpenSource firmware and TSDZ2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eZXLgWD96o

24V up to 52V battery (7S up to 14S)
Original firmware does not support 24V batteries and users are locked to use only 36, 48 or 52 volts and if they want to upgrade their batteries, they need to buy a different TSDZ2 configured to that battery.

With our firmware, users can choose to use a battery from 7 cells up to 14 cells, it can be any number on that interval!! And they can choose on the LCD, very fast and in real time.

There is at least one user using a 24V battery, because want to use very small battery and have small and light bicycle to go ride to work.

No limit to speed and higher cadence
There is no speed limit with our firmware while on original firmware is 45km/h. But yes, users can setup a speed limit, I use it for my young kid bicycle because of safety reasons.

We also implemented "off road mode", so users can remove the power and speed limits when going to trails while keep using legal limits on the street.

There is an experimental option that increases the motor cadence, as users reported that is max out at near 90 RPM. I think it can go up to about 110 RPM.

Max current and max power control on LCD
Unlike on original firmware, on our firmware users can configure the max current on LCD.

Also, we implemented max power control (yes, original firmware do not has such feature) so as battery voltage goes low, the user keeps getting the same amount of power assist from the motor! I use this a lot on trails!! instead of change assist level, I quick change to max power control mode where LCD up/down buttons increase/decrease the max power.... when I am on the trails, I do prefer to setup the amount of power motor assist me and I do it very quickly the way we implemented, as fixed predefined assist levels are no good.

Current ramp
We implemented a current ramp and the ramp step can be configured (not on LCD yet) and users can change the ramp step and I believe this can help to improve the life of the plastic gears, etc. Users can decide to have a very fast torque response from the motor or a lower one to improve the life of the motor parts, or maybe the battery current ramp, or for safety reasons having low torque, etc.

Battery SOC current counter
We implemented a battery SOC based on current sum. It resets automatically everytime the system starts up and the battery is charged (yes, you can setup this reset voltage value on LCD, so users can opt to charge their batteries to 4.1V as you suggest on the article!!).
Users can setup on LCD the amount of watts hour of the battery pack, meaning it is easy to swap to different batteries while for instance on a long trip.

About battery SOC, we also show the SOC based on battery voltage and user can configure the battery pack resistance on LCD, so SOC is much more stable and correct when voltage drops while riding.

Assist levels as humam power factor
We show on LCD the amount of human power the rider is doing on the pedals (in Watts, calculated using pedal torque sensor value and cadence) and it is really nice to see in real time the motor power and the rider power, so user can compare itself over time.
We also show the amount of force in Nm user does on pedals.

And also user can change to use from 1 to 9 assist levels and configure each assist level factor, all on LCD. You see, original firmware has fixed values that no one can configure...

And also very important, the assist levels are factor of rider pedal human power!! This mean you can for instance setup a factor of 1.0 and see on LCD that you are getting assistance of the motor in the same amount you are doing on the pedals.
You see, this is very flexible when we need to use TSDZ2 on an ebike for say kids, disable people or the average riders.

Power boost
Because at startup cadence is zero, calculated human power is zero. Also it is good to have a boost at startup (some users do not like it so they simple disable this feature on LCD).

We implemented a power boost for startup (everytime user starts pedaling or just when ebike starts - wheel speed is 0). You can configure a specific factor of assist level during power boost (uses torque sensor signal only, meaning users still have control with the pedals. You also configure the time duration of the power boost. At the end of power boost, the power fades out linearly to the regular power/assist level and user can also configure the time duration of the fade out transition.

As you can see, we did develop advanced features that are usually present on expensive motor and big brands only. Also this features configurations are locked, only the manufacture can change them but we are users so we developed in a way we can change them, so we can take out the most possible value of this motors!!

Our OpenSource firmware is not just about the firmware itself, is also about learning and sharing knowledge about the motor and battery technology as it is strategic, for me, so we get a better world (less pollution, less cars) and more health and fit people.
 
And what about the idea of havin the 4-keys pad of the LCD 5 on the Bafang Display? Nobody else hoping for the advantage of one more key?
 
Cool Casainho! You get a good visibility of your hard work!
Bravo!
:bigthumb:
 
Eremit said:
And what about the idea of havin the 4-keys pad of the LCD 5 on the Bafang Display? Nobody else hoping for the advantage of one more key?

haha...interesting timing and wording....

i personally would love to have 4 buttons. I do not have an LCD 5.....I personally would maybe even be willing to spend the money for a spare LCD5..but that's me...and I am donating USD 50 .- to casainho...so i know that i am not typical.

casainho will definitely not do anything that he feels he can do without it unless the implementation is very simple. so, if you can come up with a plan how this can be implemented in a simple manner and a way of getting the key pad for a couple of dollars...

actually: i just found it inicidentally: http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-an-j1ke ...just 5 dollars + shipping. so that would not be a problem...if casainho thinks that the 4th button is worth the extra effort...who knows.
 
Just think about a short press for light und a short press for walk assist.
There are more possible 2-Button Combinations. Offroad mode could be even a little stealthier. And a good way to overcome your 200 Clicks "change the battery"-setup (One Key as digit modifier during the setup).
This would be a rather simple change in the present interaction model, but we talk about the 850c Display, where you could have menu-driven settings. Not necessary, but nice, and in can be done later *if* there are enough guys here to see the advantage und wich go that way. Wich of course, requieres some basic support in the early stages.

This looks like a 5keys-pad, btw.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Bafang-Color-Display-Electric-Sensor/dp/B07G2YSR8T
 
Eremit said:
Just think about a short press for light und a short press for walk assist.
There are more possible 2-Button Combinations. Offroad mode could be even a little stealthier. And a good way to overcome your 200 Clicks "change the battery"-setup (One Key as digit modifier during the setup).
This would be a rather simple change in the present interaction model, but we talk about the 850c Display, where you could have menu-driven settings. Not necessary, but nice, and in can be done later *if* there are enough guys here to see the advantage und wich go that way. Wich of course, requieres some basic support in the early stages.

This looks like a 5keys-pad, btw.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Bafang-Color-Display-Electric-Sensor/dp/B07G2YSR8T

ok...i am afraid the situation is like this:

850 C is also called DPC 14

and the one you are pointing at is DPC 18. it is also a bit more expensive than the other one. So i assume it is the newer model (?)

Maybe casainho wants to have a look at this.....would be a pity not to start out with the best option anything else being comparable. I cannot judge about that of course. If casainho wants to order a DPC 18 for testing, i am willing to donate it, would be my privilege and pleasure. i can only contribute what i have...:)
 
Waynemarlow said:
You are forgetting about mass and inertia, at standstill there is max torque with no ability to transfer that into motion momentarily, once rolling some of that torque is immediately transferred into forward motion which limits the amount of torque on the gears.

Also consider that max torque is at or around zero engine rpm, once rolling the rpm is up and you won't be getting any where near max torque.

While intuitively that might seem correct, the mass and inertia are exactly the same at all speeds.

If the motor has X torque, then the shear force on the plastic teeth is the same when the gear is stationary or when it is moving, and whether it is accelerating or not accelerating.

It is however possible (electrically) to have 10x motor current at low rpm, with 1x battery current.

One thing that does change when the motor is stationary, is that a small group of teeth on the plastic gear can heat up to the temperature of the motor shaft. They probably won't when moving, as the contact area is a small part of the circumference, so the temperature gets averaged out. So restarting a hot motor which has been idle would apply max torque to softened plastic teeth.

Interestingly the strength of nylon seems to fall rapidly from 20deg to 50degree, but more slowly from 80 to 110C (so nylon seems to soften more at the low end of the temperature range than the high end)

https://www.toray.jp/plastics/en/amilan/technical/tec_021.html Fig1/2
 
andyme said:
Eremit said:
Just think about a short press for light und a short press for walk assist.
There are more possible 2-Button Combinations. Offroad mode could be even a little stealthier. And a good way to overcome your 200 Clicks "change the battery"-setup (One Key as digit modifier during the setup).
This would be a rather simple change in the present interaction model, but we talk about the 850c Display, where you could have menu-driven settings. Not necessary, but nice, and in can be done later *if* there are enough guys here to see the advantage und wich go that way. Wich of course, requieres some basic support in the early stages.

This looks like a 5keys-pad, btw.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Bafang-Color-Display-Electric-Sensor/dp/B07G2YSR8T

ok...i am afraid the situation is like this:

850 C is also called DPC 14

and the one you are pointing at is DPC 18. it is also a bit more expensive than the other one. So i assume it is the newer model (?)

Maybe casainho wants to have a look at this.....would be a pity not to start out with the best option anything else being comparable. I cannot judge about that of course. If casainho wants to order a DPC 18 for testing, i am willing to donate it, would be my privilege and pleasure. i can only contribute what i have...:)

The 850C (DPC-14) is manufactured by a different company than the DPC-18. The 850C is made by APT. The DPC model numbers are from Bafang. They don't make the displays. I believe the DPC-18 is a special version of the KD718 made by Key-Disp Technologies.

Regarding needing more buttons. I have used both and find 3 buttons is fine. You can do everything just as easily with 3 buttons using long and short presses of the 3. Long press on + is headlight and night mode. Long press on - is walk-assist. Short press on power is info toggle.
 
Rydon said:
andyme said:
Eremit said:
Just think about a short press for light und a short press for walk assist.
There are more possible 2-Button Combinations. Offroad mode could be even a little stealthier. And a good way to overcome your 200 Clicks "change the battery"-setup (One Key as digit modifier during the setup).
This would be a rather simple change in the present interaction model, but we talk about the 850c Display, where you could have menu-driven settings. Not necessary, but nice, and in can be done later *if* there are enough guys here to see the advantage und wich go that way. Wich of course, requieres some basic support in the early stages.

This looks like a 5keys-pad, btw.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Bafang-Color-Display-Electric-Sensor/dp/B07G2YSR8T

ok...i am afraid the situation is like this:

850 C is also called DPC 14

and the one you are pointing at is DPC 18. it is also a bit more expensive than the other one. So i assume it is the newer model (?)

Maybe casainho wants to have a look at this.....would be a pity not to start out with the best option anything else being comparable. I cannot judge about that of course. If casainho wants to order a DPC 18 for testing, i am willing to donate it, would be my privilege and pleasure. i can only contribute what i have...:)

The 850C (DPC-14) is manufactured by a different company than the DPC-18. The 850C is made by APT. The DPC model numbers are from Bafang. They don't make the displays. I believe the DPC-18 is a special version of the KD718 made by Key-Disp Technologies.

Regarding needing more buttons. I have used both and find 3 buttons is fine. You can do everything just as easily with 3 buttons using long and short presses of the 3. Long press on + is headlight and night mode. Long press on - is walk-assist. Short press on power is info toggle.
The LCD model research phase already ended for me -- I had in consideration opinion of others, like professionals that had being selling ebikes with Bafang motors.

Since unfortunately I am being almost alone in development, I guess we will stick with the 850C model. If there were other developers helping, then all this could be different.

I invested a lot of money and time already for researching the LCD model, I will not be back and do it again. I hope that I will do it again when start to be common on the market models with Bluetooth included.
 
casainho said:
Rydon said:
andyme said:
Eremit said:
Just think about a short press for light und a short press for walk assist.
There are more possible 2-Button Combinations. Offroad mode could be even a little stealthier. And a good way to overcome your 200 Clicks "change the battery"-setup (One Key as digit modifier during the setup).
This would be a rather simple change in the present interaction model, but we talk about the 850c Display, where you could have menu-driven settings. Not necessary, but nice, and in can be done later *if* there are enough guys here to see the advantage und wich go that way. Wich of course, requieres some basic support in the early stages.

This looks like a 5keys-pad, btw.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Bafang-Color-Display-Electric-Sensor/dp/B07G2YSR8T

ok...i am afraid the situation is like this:

850 C is also called DPC 14

and the one you are pointing at is DPC 18. it is also a bit more expensive than the other one. So i assume it is the newer model (?)

Maybe casainho wants to have a look at this.....would be a pity not to start out with the best option anything else being comparable. I cannot judge about that of course. If casainho wants to order a DPC 18 for testing, i am willing to donate it, would be my privilege and pleasure. i can only contribute what i have...:)

The 850C (DPC-14) is manufactured by a different company than the DPC-18. The 850C is made by APT. The DPC model numbers are from Bafang. They don't make the displays. I believe the DPC-18 is a special version of the KD718 made by Key-Disp Technologies.

Regarding needing more buttons. I have used both and find 3 buttons is fine. You can do everything just as easily with 3 buttons using long and short presses of the 3. Long press on + is headlight and night mode. Long press on - is walk-assist. Short press on power is info toggle.
The LCD model research phase already ended for me -- I had in consideration opinion of others, like professionals that had being selling ebikes with Bafang motors.

Since unfortunately I am being almost alone in development, I guess we will stick with the 850C model. If there were other developers helping, then all this could be different.

I invested a lot of money and time already for researching the LCD model, I will not be back and do it again. I hope that I will do it again when start to be common on the market models with Bluetooth included.

I thought so. fair enough! :thumb: i really regret that i cannot be of more actice help. i just have no clue of all this...
 
andyme said:
I thought so. fair enough! :thumb: i really regret that i cannot be of more actice help. i just have no clue of all this...
If anyone want to help about DPC-18, should start to buy 1 unit to open it and take detailed pictures of internal, then I can see how different it is from 850C model. Maybe it is just equal but with more buttons?? or maybe is totally and will be hard to develop for.

The idea is to get this type of pictures and information I did for 850C: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-850C
 
casainho said:
andyme said:
I thought so. fair enough! :thumb: i really regret that i cannot be of more actice help. i just have no clue of all this...
If anyone want to help about DPC-18, should start to buy 1 unit to open it and take detailed pictures of internal, then I can see how different it is from 850C model. Maybe it is just equal but with more buttons?? or maybe is totally and will be hard to develop for.

The idea is to get this type of pictures and information I did for 850C: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-850C

no problem. consider it done. i am very good at buying things.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
andyme said:
casainho said:
andyme said:
I thought so. fair enough! :thumb: i really regret that i cannot be of more actice help. i just have no clue of all this...
If anyone want to help about DPC-18, should start to buy 1 unit to open it and take detailed pictures of internal, then I can see how different it is from 850C model. Maybe it is just equal but with more buttons?? or maybe is totally and will be hard to develop for.

The idea is to get this type of pictures and information I did for 850C: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-850C

no problem. consider it done. i am very good at buying things.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
And here my notes also for color LCD KT-LCD8H: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Kunteng-KT-LCD8H
 
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