new eZip motor

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Why? You can but Why?
Where did you get the 26" frt wheel with disc?

700c. Not 26 inch. The direct drive motor Sunder sent was 26 inch but no disk.

This is NOT my first e bikeling 500 watt motor. This is my first REAR geared e bikeling motor. Easy street is my first e bikling motor.
Both motors are exactly the same but the 700c front hub motor rim on Easy Street is much narrower compared to the 26 inch rear motor rim on this current build.

They do not make a 27.5 e bikeling 500 watt motor so took the 27.5 inch wheels off this current kent bike and put the 26 inch e bikeling motor on the rear and a 26 inch with disk on the front.

I want to take the skinny 700c wheels off easy street and put the wider 27.5 wheels on it if they will fit. Doug says they might. However I would like the e bikeling motor on the front 700c wheel on the wider 27.5 inch wheel.

Then there is the Clear Creek Schwinn with the 1,000 watt direct drive front hub motor. The rim has a high spot on it. It either needs a new rim or a machine to fix it. The spoke wrench I ordered did not do the trick. Thanks.

LC out.
 
I guess I should just invest in higher quality tires and tubes for Easy Street. One reason why I did not do that yet and built the new bike was it is winter time and those skinny tires will be useless in the snow.

Just like the Currie has been rebuilt many times on this post, Easy street will have it's day and will be back on the road again. It will need to be moved and will need to remove the front hub motor from it to protect it from damage.

Perhaps after Christmas or on the third of January I shall order tires and tubes of higher quality than the cheap slime tubes at Wall-Mart which failed twice in one month. Unfortunately all Wall-Mart has for 700c tubes is the slime and I hate those. I argued with the jerks or clerks there to order the good thicker Goodyear tubes but was told that only corporate management could do that.

I took material science technology back in 2006 at the community college. I am surprised that there is not bullet proof tires for bicycles out there by now. At least a tire that could run over a 20 foot trail of thumb tacks or crushed glass without a puncture.

I will need to invest about 100 bucks for the tires and order the thick Goodyear tubes which are 8 times thicker that standard bell tubes. Wall-Mart don't even carry bell tubes for 700c wheels here. They should not even sell 700c bikes if they can't supply a decent tire and tube.

As for the 1,000 watt direct drive hub motor with the bent rim. I will need to call around and see if any bike shop will put it on a machine. I doubt it as no bike shop will work on an electric bike in NY state due to the e bike laws stating they are illegal. However when I get to Cleveland Ohio the chances are I will get it fixed there.

Basically before I do another e bike build I will be taking the time to repair and upgrade each e bike build that I have done to make them as close as possible to the perfect build which was my most recent. Upgrades will include better brakes , rear reflectors and lights. Better pedal gear options , tire upgrades and new paint.

What I have established is even my chain drive bikes are much more efficient and geared better than when I started. For example the Currie now has the 750 watt gear reduction motor which climbs small to moderate hills easily as I used a 20 tooth freewheel with the 480 rpm motor and not the 16 tooth that came with the rear wheel.

Gearing is about 20 mph at 750 watts and NOT 25 mph so it is a decent hill climber and efficient. At least I think so. I will need to check it but think I went with the 20 tooth on that build. I will need to try and count the teeth with the chain on it or go back in this post and look. I know the video I did it reached 28 mph but that was with Dan's old LiPo packs run at 12S and fully charged to > 48 volts.

Then there is the original dual motor beast. It has a 800 watt 36 volt Unite motor on the front and a 24 volt 500 watt Unite motor on the rear. The front has a 56 tooth spoke sprocket and 11 tooth motor sprocket and the rear runs #25 chain with a 80 tooth motor and 11 tooth wheel sprocket. gearing is 20.5 for one motor and 21.5 for the other.

Not sure which is which but basically if the bike was running just one of those motors it would be slightly over-geared however with dual motors working together it is a hill climbing beast and went up Congress st. hill which is one of the steepest hills here in Schenectady. I shot and posted a video on that also.

Then there is the bike which has the Heavy hauler motor as DA called it. The 20 inch 800 watt 48 volt hub motor on the front and the original 48 volt 1,000 watt Unite motor (original Currie upgrade) which is on the back of the last build before the new one. The 20 inch BMX Turbo.

Each bike will be upgraded like I stated above to be the best that they can be. I will be shooting new videos when this happens. Most if not all will take place in Cleveland Ohio after I move.

The big question is am I selling any of these bikes in the future. The answer is HELL NO. I am riding them all and plan on building the Haro with an 1,800 watt motor pushed to 60 volts and 40+ mph and also The Giant Boulder with a 8 or 10T MAC motor also at 60 volts and 40+ mph. They will probably share the same 60 volt pack as those bikes will definitely NOT be daily commuters.

Then after all those builds , upgrades and re-builds are accomplished I will be building an East cost version of the Death Bike. Also somewhere in between all that I will finish the push trailer project I started as well as a friction drive with a small but powerful RC motor and a belt drive as well.

Thank you all very much and stay tuned for the next episode of As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

LC out.
 


Thank you DA.

Good to hear from you. I wall take that as a Christmas present.

Merry Christmas and happy Holidays to you and yours.

They must be very popular as all three items are out of stock. Quality products at a very competitive price usually do go out of stock just like the e bikling 500 watt kit did but then were re-stocked.

I left my e mail for all three items and will order them as soon as they comes. If Easy Street could talk I am sure he would thank you also. The narrow tires do have their advantage on smooth dry roads vs the wider tires as less rolling resistance. That plus the 700c wheel should be good for at least 2 or 3 mph over the 26 inch wheels. Thanks.

LC out.
 
Checked a couple weeks ago also, couldn't get them either.
Must have been a site crash?
Always loved them, great prices and selection w/free shipping @ $150 purchase (used to be $100).
Live within 50 miles so any shipping is reasonable.
 
LC you know to run those skinny tires pretty high PSI.

Yes. That is what Doug said also. I remember the first flat with those. It was a slow leak and one of my friends was pumping it up. Cheap tube. When it poped it scared the s h i t out of me and Mary. Sounded like a gun went off.

I think Doug said 100 pounds but 80 will work. Lucky if I had 45 in there. No more Wall-Mart s h i t t y slime tubes or cheap tires for Easy street. I will wait until I can get those DA posted when they come in.

Going on my maiden voyage downtown in a few minutes with the new build. Wish me luck.

Thanks.

LC out.
 
DrkAngel said:
Checked a couple weeks ago also, couldn't get them either.
Must have been a site crash?
Always loved them, great prices and selection w/free shipping @ $150 purchase (used to be $100).
Live within 50 miles so any shipping is reasonable.
https://www.niagaracycle.com successful transitioned to https://www.the-bikeshop.com.
The lack of notification or forwarding of web address is puzzling (blame IT contractor?).
Same location, same inventory new web address.
 
DrkAngel said:
DrkAngel said:
Checked a couple weeks ago also, couldn't get them either.
Must have been a site crash?
Always loved them, great prices and selection w/free shipping @ $150 purchase (used to be $100).
Live within 50 miles so any shipping is reasonable.
https://www.niagaracycle.com successful transitioned to https://www.the-bikeshop.com.
The lack of notification or forwarding of web address is puzzling (blame IT contractor?).
Same location, same inventory new web address.

Buyers beware!
They have many bad reviews of shady dealings.
Listing stuff they don't actually stock, etc ....
 
jcool3 said:
Buyers beware!
They have many bad reviews of shady dealings.
Listing stuff they don't actually stock, etc ....

A dozen orders here without a hitch. Maybe you misread reviews?
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns


Not sure if both 500 watt e bikeling motors are the same. Easy street is a 500 watt front on a 700c wheel. The new build is a 500 watt rear on a 26 inch rim.

The first difference I noticed was the throttle. This rear motor does nothing until the throttle is pressed about 1/4 the way, then the motor engages. With Easy Street and the front motor I need to press the throttle gently so the wheel don't spin out.

I like the fact that I don't have to press the throttle gently as it is easier to control acceleration but top speed on this rear motor is about 7 mph slower. I figured two or three as this new wheel is 26 inch and not 700c.

I do not really mind as it is not a race bike but hill climbing capability is now questionable. I fell asleep drinking downtown last night and went and had breakfast before returning home. I did not go up Union st. hill which is a moderate size hill. I went the other way up a hill just as steep but shorter distance and then up a gradual incline.

I will need to try a longer hill to see if the motor is just geared lower or is NOT 500 watts but only 350 watts and advertised as 500 watts. Also it has no where near the acceleration as the front motor on Easy Street.

I remember when hooking up the wires on Easy Street that I was told to NOT hook up the wires which run the Power mode which was two or three speed settings if I wanted it to be Full speed at default. The seller actually told me that.

I did not hook those wires up this time either but am wondering if I need to. I pushed the buttons for low , medium and high but was no difference in power. I am wondering if I hook up those wires if I will get more power as the default is set to a lower power level instead of the maximum level like on Easy Street. Thanks.

LC out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns


Not sure if both 500 watt e bikeling motors are the same. Easy street is a 500 watt front on a 700c wheel. The new build is a 500 watt rear on a 26 inch rim.

The first difference I noticed was the throttle. This rear motor does nothing until the throttle is pressed about 1/4 the way, then the motor engages. With Easy Street and the front motor I need to press the throttle gently so the wheel don't spin out.

I like the fact that I don't have to press the throttle gently as it is easier to control acceleration but top speed on this rear motor is at least 7 mph slower. I figured two or three as this new wheel is 26 inch and not 700c.

I do not really mind as it is not a race bike but hill climbing capability is now questionable. I fell asleep drinking downtown last night and went and had breakfast before returning home. I did not go up Union st. hill which is a moderate size hill. I went the other way up a hill just as steep but shorter distance and then up a gradual incline.

I will need to try a longer hill to see if the motor is just geared lower or is NOT 500 watts but only 350 watts and advertised as 500 watts. Also it has no where near the acceleration as the front motor on Easy Street.

I remember when hooking up the wires on Easy Street that I was told to NOT hook up the wires which run the Power mode which was two or three speed settings if I wanted it to be Full speed at default. The seller actually told me that.

I did not hook those wires up this time either but am wondering if I need to. I pushed the buttons for low , medium and high but was no difference in power. I am wondering if I hook up those wires if I will get more power as the default is set to a lower power level instead of the maximum level like on Easy Street. Thanks.

LC out.
 
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I still have not hooked up the speed control wires to see if it makes any difference but think not as according to the installation hooking those up only slows it down.

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According to that review the controller will work off of 12S LiPo. I think I will charge up the old LiPo packs Dan sent and give it a try. Also I think that I should consider building a 12S pack from 18650 cells with a BMS. A 13S pack would be even better but not sure what the CAP limit is on that controller. I will need to contact the company.

If it does run off the old LiPo packs then I may consider ordering two 10.0 - 6S Multistars. Not sure which way I want to go with this.
I also need to hook up a speedo. as I would like to know how fast it can go. My guess is about 15 mph on the flat and Easy Street at least 23 mph on the flat both using my 6P - 36 volt 10S Samsung pack.

I understand that there will be a difference in top speed due to the fact Easy Street is a 700c wheel with the same motor however 8 to 10 mph difference just seems like a lot. The extra 8 volts I will get using 12S LiPo vs 10S - 18650 packs should close the gap and get me close to or 20 mph with this new build.

Let me know what you all think about it. Thanks.

LC out.
 
"LiPo Fire Burns"

It's so much easier managing 18650 packs. I have nowhere safe to charge Lipo in winter. :bigthumb:
 
I have nowhere safe to charge Lipo in winter.

I got my LiPo packs inside LiPo bags which are inside a sentry cash box made out of metal so fire is not an issue just smoke which is very hazardous indoors but I do have an enclosed front porch with a window and fan blowing air out so I can charge them there as there are two doors separating the front porch from the main living area.

Those Turnergy packs have lasted quite awhile and still have some life I think. I have always wanted two 10S Multistars though. I switched to 18650 packs and have a 6P - 10S , and two 4P - 10S packs and all do run well however none will match the performance of 12S LiPo. I also have two 6S - LiPo chargers so am not ready to give up on them yet.

Awhile ago I bought two pair of cheap brand name 6S packs. two 10.0 and two 8.0s. I should have listened to the advice I got against that decision. My friend downstairs attempted to take apart a couple of those old defective puffed up unstable Lipo packs which I put outside in the garage. He gave up after one started sparking really bad but there still was no fire. Therefore I think it is safe to say that the old ones I have as well as brand new Multistars will be safe to run and charge. Turnegy or Multistars are the only LiPo brands I would order though. Thanks.

LC out.

12/21/18

No LiPo Shoot :cry:

I was talking to my downstairs neighbor about the old defective LiPo packs I asked him to take apart awhile back. The deal was a beer for each one he got separated. I was going to try and make two 5S packs from two 6S packs by finding the bad cells.

It was hilarious listening to him tell the story last night when drinking a bottle of gin. :lol: He said the first two came apart no problem and then it was like the forth of July. Sparks everywhere. It scared the shit out of him. :lol:

That was the exact reason I did not want to do it. I asked "What did you end up doing with them" His reply was "I got a Hazmat suite and a lawn rake and a garbage can and threw them in the garbage" :lol: :lol: :lol:

The only LiPo packs I have left are the old ones Dan sent me which are in storage. Unfortunately one of the balance plugs came disconnected. :roll: They are still combined as two 10.0 Ah packs but two of the 5.0 Ah packs need the balance plugs re-connected and it is something I have been procrastinating with, It will be a huge spark and probably a burnt plug. I know that there was a big spark before and when I asked for advice on how to prevent that I never got an answer. Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC out.

12/23/18

I got the old LiPo packs from storage. I am cleaning out the front porch today and getting rid of a lot of junk and will then charge each of the four 5.0 LiPo packs separate. DA told me to combine them into two 10.0 packs but I am done with sparking balance plugs because a couple of cells are .01 to .04 volts off.

Also when dealing with older packs which have sat around about a year or so they need to be balance charged separate in my opinion as combining them could hide a bad cell if a good cell is charged in parallel with a defective cell. However I would be surprised if I found a bad cell in these packs as the packs are of superior quality to all other LiPo brands except maybe Multistar.

I would definitely buy these or Multistar in the future and do indeed plan on doing so. I am no longer scared of LiPo. I was when I first started but now days am only afraid of taking them apart. Hooking the power wires in parallel or in series I use a pre hook up cable with two resisters. I just do not like hooking up the Y balance plugs.

I could go to the trouble of creating a pre- hook up balance cable using six resisters but that would be a waste of time as I do not run these packs often and when I replace them will be ordering two 6S - 10.0 or 12.0 Multi-stars so will not need to combine balance wires.

I will be BALANCE charging and combining all four 6S - 5.0 packs in parallel series for 12S at 10.0 Ah tonight. I will be running them with the new build I just did and then the 20" BMX Turbo with the dual motors for the video climbing Crane st. hill from a dead stop at the bottom. Thanks.

LC out.

12/23/18

Another trip downtown with the new build.

Pedal assist up the hills but that was what the build was intended for. I pedal assisted with Easy Street also. Those motors are both small so not intended for steep hills. A little exercise wont hurt me.

I still have not charged up the old LiPo but am looking forwards to accomplishing that tonight. I just want to see the difference in power with the 12S Lipo compared to the 18650 packs.

I am not sure which 18650 packs are the strongest but I do know which are the weakest. That would be the SONA packs 4P. Those were my first 18650 packs and have been ran the longest.

I have been running the 6P Samsung packs for easy street and this new build but believe it or not the LG cells which I built with those cheap plastic caps which were two 6S in parallel and then after melting the caps I rebuilt them with a BMS for 10S @ 4P.
Basically the 4S LG pack runs neck and neck with the 6P Samsung pack. Capacity wise and power wise.

The new motor definitely runs about 6 to 8 mph slower than the front 700c motor. Also I have ruled out lower gearing as the reason as Easy street can climb hills better also and is a front motor compared to rear. Same size motor both rated at 500 watts.

My solution is 12S LiPo if the 36 volt controller can work with it. I would NOT hook up 12S Lipo to Easy street as I believe Easy Street to be a 27 mph bike with 10S Lion on the flat compared to a 19 mph bike which is my new build. LiPo should get it real close to Easy Street in top speed and hill climbing ability. Thanks.

LC out.

12/27/18

I got a brand new tube and tire for Easy Street. I picked up a nice Dimondback for 10 bucks the other night. The guy promised me it was not stolen. It was Christmas eve. He says he wants to sell me a Ross Mountain bike and a Shwinn BMX for 10 bucks Friday. I am also building a Specialized 26" mountain bike for my friend downtown.

I want to order two REAR 1,000 watt direct drive motors. One for the Clear Creek Schwinn and another for my Schwinn Ranger. The Clear creek has the 1,000 watt front motor Sunder sent me. When I get to Ohio I am going to get the wheel fixed and am putting it on the Haro V3. The Clear Creek will go to John. Marys son. He has wanted it for awhile but did not want to part with the motor Sunder sent. The Haro V3 is one of my favorite bikes so that will be perfect for the motor Sunder sent if I can get the rim fixed.

The old LiPo packs are charging now. My latest build will be getting 12S LiPo to the rear geared hub motor soon. I should get a lot better performance out of it. I will get a speedo. for that and Easy Street. Thanks.

Also looking at a PC upgrade. An I5 4670K haswell and an 1150 motherboard. That processor is the best bang for the buck. I was looking at a FX 8350 eight core but when I looked up the benchmark vs the I5 I changed my mind quick. The I5 is much better for the same price.

https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-4670K-vs-AMD-FX-8350/1538vs1489

The 4690k is not as good as the 4670k. Haswell is better architecture than the haswell refresh in the 4690k devils canyon and 84 watts vs 88 for the Devils canyon. The 4670k is a more stable CPU to overclock also. It runs cooler and beats a lot of I7 processors.

https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-4670K/2432vs1538


https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-4790-vs-Intel-Core-i5-4670K/2293vs1538

I would like DAs and Sunders and Dans opinion on that I5 processor. It has Intel burn technology. It is what Doug is running in his machine and overclocked it to 5.6 gig without blue screen running custom liquid cooling. It is 3.4 gig and will turbo to 3.8 out of the box. I might run liquid cooling but 4.2 gig should be enough to overclock. Anything more than that would be abusing the CPU I think. Thanks.



12/27/18. 5:46 AM

Easy street is back on the road. I bought a new tire and a bell tube. I could not use the tube as it has a presta valve and the rim takes a schrader tube so I used the tube from the 700c Dimond Back and I put the 27.5 inch wheels from the new build on the 700c DimondBack. They were originally on the new build but the e bikeling kit was 26 inch so I found a home for the 27.5 inch wheels. I just need disk brakes now.

Also I am almost finished balance charging the fourth 5.0 Turnegy LiPo pack. The old packs Dan sent. I was 100% correct in charging them separate as one of the balance plug extensions had a wire unhooked. The two balance extensions both were plunged into a Y balance wire. the balancer and charger could have missed that as it would have been in parallel with a cell from the other pack.

I am about to hook the power wires in parallel for two 6S - 10.0 packs and then hook them in series for 12S LiPo. I wont be hooking the balance wires in parallel ever again. These packs are old and maybe have a few more good runs left in them. I can deal with charging each pack separate. That way if I do get a bad cell it will not go unnoticed. They will be replaced with 10.0 or 12.0 Multistars. Maybe even 16.0 or 20.0 if there is a big sale and I run into some $$$$$ in Ohio.
I will be hooking the LiPo packs up to the new build soon. thanks.

12/27/18

I am heading down now to hook up the LiPos to the new build. I will have Doug shoot a video. (see bottom pic) Then am heading down to the 24 hour beer store with the Currie and the 6P - 10S - 18650 pack as the Currie has a basket. I am sick of carrying 20 beers in a back pack. Thanks.

LC out.
 

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As the hub motor turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. new controller.

I finally took the new build with the 500 watt e bikeling motor for a ride with the old LiPo batteries I charged a week or so ago and there was absolutely no difference in power.

I tried hooking the blue wire up and pressed the button on the control module for slow medium and fast and nothing happened.

Today I called e bikeling and gave them my information and they said they are sending me a new controller and throttle. I am not sure about the module. I asked but the guy did not know, He said is most likley the amp output on the controller is limiting the motor output.

If this new controller wont fix the problem would a different brushless controller work better ? I still have a 500 watt unit Dan sent but do not know the amp rating on it. 750 watt / 36 = 20.8 amps. 900 / 36 = 25 amps so I would be looking for a 28 amp controller just to make sure the motor can run at it's full potential.

What I really don't understand is why I get the same power output from 36 volts with 48V fully charged LiPos. Even if the amps are limited to 15 10S Lion - 40V * 15 - 600 watts. 48 * 15 = 720 watts. Since the motor is rated at 500 watts a 15 amp controller should get the bike to go at least 23 mph. That thing is lucky if it hits 18 mph on a stretch. Easy street did at least 25 mph. maybe 27 mph on a stretch. The larger wheel should not make that much difference. maybe 3 or 4 mph. 5 mph at the most.

I suspect that the controller I have is a 250 or 350 watt controller. NOT a 500 or 750 watt unit. I looked on e bay just now and saw a lot of 350 watt controllers and a few 250 watt units. However they have this one which should solve all my problems.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-1500W-Brushless-Motor-Controller-For-E-bike-Scooter-Electric-Bicycle/232876646971?hash=item363887a23b:g:EhgAAOSw6sdbaCPS:rk:8:pf:0

My big question is would it burn out my motor ? I know better than to take the bike up any really steep hills. Other than that under normal operation up to 26 or 27 nph on flat pavement would the motor suffer damage with this controller. It is a last resort as they said they are sending me a different controller.

Also I was thinking about in the future ordering a second motor for the front of the bike for better hill climbing ability and hooking both motors in parallel to a single controller for one throttle. Would that 1500 watt controller be a good choice then.

Please let me know. Thanks.

LC out.
 
Hey LC, Happy New year!
Yes it will damage that motor. I had one and switched my power switch from low to medium and it damaged the clutch in the motor. It ran but if I gave it too much throttle too soon, the clutch slipped.

You cannot use two motors on one controller. It might work it might not. All the posts I have read about dual motors with a Brushless motor says you need two controllers but can use one throttle, as long as you are using one battery pack.

How is the weather up there? Really cold today, only hit maybe 60. Been in the 70s lately. Been out riding a lot. A common ride is 35+ miles now. I get an average of 2.3 miles per amp hour and have seen 3 per AH when it's calm and warm. Longest ride was 58 miles. Best mileage out of my 16 AH Multistars is 43 and that is hitting the LVC which is 41 volts or 3.4 per cell. They settle at 3.5 or better as long as I don't run them till the controller shuts off. Yesterday I ran both packs in parallel so I had 32 ah 12s pack. I got better performance when the packs drained down further down than with a single pack.

Good luck with your move. Hope you don't wish you didn't move, when you get there. I am still missing Chicago, but not the weather.

Dan
 
If the new controller they send don't do the trick then I will try the 36 volt 500 watt controller you sent me.

I suspect that the controller I am dealing with now is only 250 watt or 350 watt.

However Easy street might have a legit 500 watt unit.

If that is the case then the controller you sent will make the new build run as good as easy street.

Time will tell as if I don't get the new controller or it don't make a difference I will hook up the one you sent.

Thanks.

LC out.
 
As far as moving goes it is NOT going smoothly.

I am looking at homelessness in March sometime.

We will be living on the street or some cheap bug infested motel room social services puts people in if we can't escape the high living costs in NY.

Neither of us can get power turned on in our name and 95% of 1 bedrooms here are closer to 1,000 dollars than 600.

:cry: :cry: :cry:
 
I like that the Multistars work so well with you.

I just hope when I get situated I can order the 10.0s or 12.0s - 6S packs.

I would love 16.0 or 20.0s also if the price was right.

Not many brushless 750 watt or 800 watt units exist for a decent price. Scarce as hens teeth.

1,000 watts maybe but you got me thinking about that damaged motor of yours so my guess is a 750 watt brushless controller or 600 watt is more suitable for that 500 watt motor I got.

What you mean you damaged a geared hub motor ?????

Was it an e bikeling like the two I got each rated at 500 watts or a different animal. Please let me know. Thanks.

LC out.
 
It was a ebikeling, 500 watt but I ran it to hard. I forgot that the smaller motors are more fragile than the MACs are,
I have damaged clutches in a a MAC too. The brushed motors and controllers are cheap in comparison. There are many 750 watt controllers on Ebay. Not cheap like the brushed ones.

I met the guy from E bikeling. Lived near me up north. was very helpful. Didn't have the motor I was looking for at the time. If you want power you need a DD or a big geared hub. The little motor was fun and it helped my workout some.

Hope he sends you the correct controller so you don't buy one.
Problem with most generic controllers is the connectors. Most don't match up or are different color matches. Knowing that you aren't the most patient person. I would wait for the replacement. Keep posting if you need help.

Dan
 
As the hub motor turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

I am glad you know the exact motor I am dealing with. You sent me a 36 volt brushless controller which is 500 watts awhile ago.

I will compare the wires to the e bikeling controller and see if they are the same.

I don't see anything in my e mail about a new controller sent. I might have been lied to. Not sure.

I guess I can run the bike as is. I can pedal assist on small hills. However will still be looking.

I don't take it up any steep hills. Without a speedo. I can only guess what speed it is going on the level. somewhere between 15 and 18 mph. Easy street with the same motor on a 700c wheel 24 to 27 mph.

I am only looking for a 25 to 35% increase in output power and not looking to damage the motor. It is safe to say that at the same power level as Easy street that it will naturally have better hill climbing ability as it is a 26" wheel compared to 700c.

If the 700c wheel goes 26 mph on the flat then the 26" wheel should do about 22 mph. I will see. Right now however is not the best of times as I came close to doing a life bid again due to my temper and am almost at the deadline for this move I have been talking about. The end of January is my deadline to find an apartment for a February 3rd move in where I sign a lease and get my new keys.

Thanks Dan.

LC out.
 
The plugs might be the same but the color matches might not be in the motor. Just because the colors match doesn't mean the motor will run, correctly. The most important match is the positive and negative.

Call them again and see what's up. Be nice, don't scream at them. Tell them that you are promoting them on ES. I think the guy I met was Ulan, sounded like Russian or something like that.

Dan
 
View attachment 1Untitled11.png

The colors match.

However for the LCD display there are not enough wires. ( figure 3)

I need 5 wires and the controller you sent only has three and probably not for the LCD display.

Not sure if it will work but think you said it is 500 watts.

Thanks.

LC out.
 
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