18650 spot welding -how to- ULTIMATE REPOSITORY

flippy said:
luminuty said:
flippy said:
dude, this is the third identical post with this advertisement crap.

This is not an ad.
I'm just trying to get the info out on this new battery weld tab material that is superior to nickle.

you posted 3 messages, all perfectly identical without any prior history. without seeing other postings actually interacting with other people i would take your postings as a bot spamming ads.

and "just trying to get the information out" looks just like an ad to me. you even went to the effort of putting the "tm" in the proper subscript.

am i wrong in assuming you have a stake in selling this stuff?

The only stake that i have is that i have a minimal amount of samples to give out to serious battery builders and i thought this would be the right place to post the information that i cut and pasted from the manufacturers website (hence the TM) for information purposes.
This would also clear up any skepticism on the performance of this material compaired to what was out in 2014.

I am new to posting to this site (or any for that matter) and could use some help in getting the information out to the appropriate area.

Where do i go with this stuff?
 
luminuty said:
The only stake that i have is that i have a minimal amount of samples to give out to serious battery builders and i thought this would be the right place to post the information that i cut and pasted from the manufacturers website (hence the TM) for information purposes.
This would also clear up any skepticism on the performance of this material compaired to what was out in 2014.
I am new to posting to this site (or any for that matter) and could use some help in getting the information out to the appropriate area.
Where do i go with this stuff?

for starters: you should START with posting an explanation who you are and what gains you might get for peddeling goods on a forum.
this is not rocket science. no forum accepts blank marketing copypastings you did 3 times already. if i were an admin you would have had your account blocked the first time.

and yes, i am extremely sceptical. your advertisement message is explicitly crafted to say exactly nothing. there is no links to how the testing was done and under what conditions. its clearly written by someone that has a marketing background or education.

so far i only see lots of cost and no benefits. the corrosion test is meaningless as only the copper is sensitive to corrosion, there is also no mention of what kind of corrosion test was used or how. and on that subject, what is it? little or no corrosion? cant be both.

and if it is done in strips then the sides are open so the copper will oxidize in time and delaminate as there is no nickel or stainless steel to protect it. having 3 different metals is also very hard to weld.

what is the cost of this stuff per kg and what actual performance boost does it provide compared to the same size nickel?

if serious battery builders (like me) are the target audience then i need actual data that the company already has, not this marketing wank.
i am not going to do the work that the engineer of that company already has done or should have done. it's a waste of my time without clear lab level data from their engineering department. i already have spent thousands in battery testing equipment. i am not going to spend any money or time in doing the work of the engineer of that company. if they want my money then they need to let the data talk for the product. if it's any good it should not be any problem to show the actual testing data and methods as the product sells itself at that point and you dont need any maketing wank to sell a solid product.


fun fact: i got 3 pans for my induction coocktop that also have a sigmaclad logo on it and i dont see any benefit as i still cant cook to save my life, how will this stuff save my battery building company because it aint doing nothing for my cooking skills...
 
Hi Guys:)
Hello to everybody because this is my first post!:)
I'm reading this forum for a while and today I deceided to register because I was't able to find answer for my problem. I bought recently a spot welder from China with pneumatic head. Not very expensive, but better than Sunnico. The device seems to be ok, and it has enough pulse power to weld nickel. The range of spot pulse is up to 999, and usually I weld on 400. But one thing is problematic for me. The electrodes stick to nickel. Don't know which parameter should I change to prevent it? More pulse power, less time? Pressure? Head speed?
Can you help me?

This is the spotter

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cr8MtqdS
 
Just as a note: The average Amperage/mm² =
4,459A/mm² pure nickel @ "optimal Temperature"[/b]
6,619A/mm² pure nickel @ "acceptable Temperature"[/b]
8,918/mm² pure nickel @ "poor/hot Temperature"[/b]

Here the download link of my excel tabel to calculate what nickel profile you need for any current:
PureNickelwhatDiameterforwhatCurrentTabelElias.xlsx


file.php
 
mistercrash said:
Big post with 8 pics. I have been thinking of making large 1S modules with 18650 cells for a long time. I wanted to make them with things that can easily be found on the net and simple tools and a good spot welder. In this case, the pics show a 1S24P module. To demonstrate I used old tool pack Sony Konions, cardboard instead of Copper sheets and paper for Nickel strips and GPO-3 sheets. :D This would not be for a bicycle but for something bigger. Motorcycle, car, power station. The principle is the same for any parallel combination. Some will find this similar to the Tesla Model S modules, that's because it is.

Thanks
Ray

MC did you ever put this in to practice on a final build using copper sheet with the welded and soldered Ni tabs ?
 
No I didn't but I don't see why it would not work. I went for the cheaper and a bit bulkier Leaf module route. If I had some disposable income to get a lot of quality 18650 or 20700 cells, I would be clicking the ''Order now'' button in a heartbeat.
 
There seem to be 3, maybe 4 models of battery powered welders.
Anyone able to make comparisons?
 
Allex said:
Great, where do you get that heat shrink?

Have had it for some time - thought I bought it from Batteryspace.com but just checking their website I don't know if they are still selling it. I do remember that it cost a LOT... and then shipping from the USA doubled the price. Have got some from an English supplier previously and again very expensive, but there must be a good cheap source from Asia somewhere... but I have not yet found it.
 
Allex said:
Great, where do you get that heat shrink?

search "polyolefin heat shrink"

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/heat-shrink-cold-shrink-sleeves/8087872/

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/heat-shrink-cold-shrink-sleeves/8087831/
 
Welder with $17 PCB? Anyone tried?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OOTDTY-Double-pulse-Spot-welding-machine-encoder-Time-Digit-Module-Control-Panel-Plate-adjustable-current-Controller/32959231709.html?
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2019-01-01 at 2.17.46 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2019-01-01 at 2.17.46 PM.png
    81.9 KB · Views: 3,363
seems to be a growing market, there are a few more on aliexpress and at least 3 here on ES.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2019-01-02 at 4.01.27 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2019-01-02 at 4.01.27 PM.png
    147.4 KB · Views: 3,336
tomjasz said:
Welder with $17 PCB? Anyone tried?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OOTDTY-Double-pulse-Spot-welding-machine-encoder-Time-Digit-Module-Control-Panel-Plate-adjustable-current-Controller/32959231709.html?

I have spot welder made with this controller and works 100%.
700VA transformer, 35mm (2AWG) wire , 2 turns. I guess i have about 250 amps in spot welder.
time set to 2 units (40ms)
current set to 65% - 150-170A ???

welds are ok 0.1 to 0.2 nickel.

Of course most difficult is to find pure nickel strip.
 
tomjasz said:
seems to be a growing market, there are a few more on aliexpress and at least 3 here on ES.

I built my own, but bought the pcb from arvweb and the components from mouser.
https://avdweb.nl/popular/spotwelder/diy-spot-welder

I just put mine back together for the 25R build. If you go out behind thrift stores, they have piles of microwaves because they dont sell them due to safety risks. The only hard part I had was finding the blue relay/transformer or whatever it is.

It is a very good rig, I would suggest you buy from avdweb rather then alie/alibaba/ebay.
 
markz said:
tomjasz said:
seems to be a growing market, there are a few more on aliexpress and at least 3 here on ES.

I built my own, but bought the pcb from arvweb and the components from mouser.
https://avdweb.nl/popular/spotwelder/diy-spot-welder

I just put mine back together for the 25R build. If you go out behind thrift stores, they have piles of microwaves because they dont sell them due to safety risks. The only hard part I had was finding the blue relay/transformer or whatever it is.

It is a very good rig, I would suggest you buy from avdweb rather then alie/alibaba/ebay.

Good lead!

Interesting video... https://youtu.be/nUR-giwn4z0
 
Here is my spot welder, I just did up a 10S4P in 25R they are 20A discharge rated, and LiMn chemistry. I had round copper bar but it took too much grinding so I just used 10 gauge solid copper wire, 8 gauge would have been a bit better. You can buy single conductor bulk wire by the meter at any Home Depot, Lowes, Rona, Canadian Tire, Princess Auto/Harbor Freight.

I bought everything related to the battery from ru.nkon.nl and fasttech for the holders, if you select e-packet shipping you get it much quicker.

The tabs are 5.80mm wide by 0.15mm thick, how much amps can that take?
If I do 4 series tabs per 2P, then my controller is 45-50A that would be 12.5A for each of the 4 tabs.
Should I even bother beefing it up after that?




 
Willow said:
Building a few small 36V packs at the moment, using 30Q cells - spotwelding 0.1mm copper with the DN10 welder and custom timing circuit. I used the cardboard insulators for the first time, and would highly recommend in the case of gluing a pack together.

20181130_132205.jpg

20181218_094405.jpg

20181218_094334.jpg

20181218_085926.jpg

20181218_090627.jpg

20181218_091603.jpg

I want to build my next battery pack with copper sheet instead of nickel strips.

What's the max current that 0.1mm piece can handle?

Thanks
 
DasDouble said:
Just as a note: The average Amperage/mm² =
4,459A/mm² pure nickel @ "optimal Temperature"[/b]
6,619A/mm² pure nickel @ "acceptable Temperature"[/b]
8,918/mm² pure nickel @ "poor/hot Temperature"[/b]

How/where could I get a similar data (amps/mm2) for pure copper?

Thanks
 
BenjAZ said:
DasDouble said:
Just as a note: The average Amperage/mm² =
4,459A/mm² pure nickel @ "optimal Temperature"[/b]
6,619A/mm² pure nickel @ "acceptable Temperature"[/b]
8,918/mm² pure nickel @ "poor/hot Temperature"[/b]

How/where could I get a similar data (amps/mm2) for pure copper?

Thanks
I don't know how to calculate those values but conductivity of copper is like 4times better than nickel so multiply by 4 and I think you are close enough. And thermal "properties" are also better in copper or at least it's used in cooling systems and nickel is just plated for the looks.
 
Has anyone here tried layering copper on top of nickel? I read that you can layer strips to increase the current capability. So why not increase it with copper?
 
Back
Top