24F Silent Controller 20kw 100-150v iOS/Android- $299>

Powervelocity.com said:
Actually, please connect only the signal wire to the module as the common ground is already there on the module. That pin is also reserved for something else in the future.

So for the use case of eBrake as a switch only (no lighting) the following diagram is correct?

M
 
Powervelocity.com said:
The brake signal is for signaling only. It's 5v max and very low amps.

I'm confused. I thought the eBrake is merely a "short" between the white/blue wire and the black wire. No intrinsic voltage involved at all. Just continuity. To wit:

01_InAndOutInterfaceRqmts3.png

Please set me straight.

M
 
Correct!

MJSfoto1956 said:
Powervelocity.com said:
Actually, please connect only the signal wire to the module as the common ground is already there on the module. That pin is also reserved for something else in the future.

So for the use case of eBrake as a switch only (no lighting) the following diagram is correct?

M
 
Well, voltages are present in anything electrically powered. In this case, we are talking about digital signals.
"Open" translates to 5v at the brake signal wire when the brakes are disengaged.
"Closed/shorted" means 0v at the brake wire when brakes are engaged.

This is how processors in the controller or BT module differentiate between two states, electrically speaking.

MJSfoto1956 said:
Powervelocity.com said:
The brake signal is for signaling only. It's 5v max and very low amps.

I'm confused. I thought the eBrake is merely a "short" between the white/blue wire and the black wire. No intrinsic voltage involved at all. Just continuity. To wit:

01_InAndOutInterfaceRqmts3.png

Please set me straight.

M
 
Powervelocity.com said:
Well, voltages are present in anything electrically powered. In this case, we are talking about digital signals.
"Open" translates to 5v at the brake signal wire when the brakes are disengaged.
"Closed/shorted" means 0v at the brake wire when brakes are engaged.

This is how processors in the controller or BT module differentiate between two states, electrically speaking.

Fair enough. But the behavior you describe is merely "boolean". And unless you have some other inside information to reveal, I would be willing to bet that the original Chinese engineers were simply testing for 5v or "something else" -- the MCU then makes decisions based on this EITHER/OR situation. Guess I get to play around to see if I'm right or not.

M
 
Powervelocity.com said:
EBS+ is similar to EBS- in function which means it also communicates brake signal. The difference is that it expects positive input (instead of ground like with EBS-). The positive input makes sense when you want the stop signal to light up when you press the brakes. So, you would parallel the EBS+ with the stop signal light wire and feed 12v to the brake lever switch input, so that when you engage the brakes, both EBS+ and your stop signal light get 12v. That would communicate the brake event to the controller and light up the brake light at the same time.

Just to be complete, please confirm that this is how one would wire up eBrakes to the sole EBS+ connector, ignoring the two EBS- connectors.

M
 
Yep, a relay would work. As long as it's isolated, so you don't feed 12v to EBS-.
EBS+ however, can take 12v.

MJSfoto1956 said:
And finally, a version that uses an SPST relay to close the controller's ESB- brake circuit when the brake light goes on.

This seems to be the way to go for any eBike/eScooter/eMotorcycle where having a brake light is a must.

M
MJSfoto1956 said:
Powervelocity.com said:
EBS+ is similar to EBS- in function which means it also communicates brake signal. The difference is that it expects positive input (instead of ground like with EBS-). The positive input makes sense when you want the stop signal to light up when you press the brakes. So, you would parallel the EBS+ with the stop signal light wire and feed 12v to the brake lever switch input, so that when you engage the brakes, both EBS+ and your stop signal light get 12v. That would communicate the brake event to the controller and light up the brake light at the same time.

Just to be complete, please confirm that this is how one would wire up eBrakes to the sole EBS+ connector, ignoring the two EBS- connectors.

M
 
Not all. There are non-isolated relays or circuits simulating relay functionality.
The definition of a relay doesn't make any implications about its isolation properties.

MJSfoto1956 said:
Powervelocity.com said:
Yep, a relay would work. As long as it's isolated, so you don't feed 12v to EBS-.

So, aren't most (if not all) relays by definition "isolated"?
Or do I have that wrong?

M
 
Thanks Hopefully i can finally get my Controller working soon
 
I noticed on the website that the controller has a built-in on/off switch. Does it have its own internal precharge circuit?
 

Attachments

  • 24f-15kw-sinewavesilent-controller-android-ios-bluetooth-programmable.jpg
    24f-15kw-sinewavesilent-controller-android-ios-bluetooth-programmable.jpg
    29.1 KB · Views: 2,315
The schematics is simply a typical connection diagram. There is no built-in switch. I would recommend connecting a properly rated breaker on the positive end and have a BMS on the negative end. Connectors with built-in pre-charge resistors, such as XT90, work well handling sparks.

TorgueRPM said:
I noticed on the website that the controller has a built-in on/off switch. Does it have its own internal precharge circuit?
 
Depending on how much current you are planning to run, there may be a few options.
I would normally connect the DC/DC ground to the battery negative or somewhere on the PCB and splice into the orange ignition wire. That allows to control the power to the controller with the ignition switch. But I don' t run any heavy loads, just lights and maybe a phone via 12->5v converter, so that works well.

Ebuilt said:
If I wanted to wire in an external dc converter to my powervelocity controller, how would I do that?
 
Hi Guys

Instead of emailing PW with all stupid questions thought i would ask here, Has anyone used the Throttle wire rather then Bluetooth side, just wanted to see what the difference is.

Cheers.
 
Thanks PW

Yes i had ride other day and it came off the BT so i wanted to see better way i can lock it in, and thought maybe connect director to the connector so it will clip in.

Cheers
Peter
 
A 3 pin JST connector has a notch that will lock it in the connector on the Bluetooth end. It's not perfect but it should withstand vibrations.

Have you tried those?


2019-03-07_15-02-31.jpg



cheeko said:
Thanks PW

Yes i had ride other day and it came off the BT so i wanted to see better way i can lock it in, and thought maybe connect director to the connector so it will clip in.

Cheers
Peter
 
I actually cut them off because it has the plastic tab on the bottom doesn't fit on correctly.

I will Try some hot glue tonight if it keeps failing i guess ill direct solider i dont plan on removing it ever unless a error i i guess it doesn't matter if i i need to unsolder it
 
Hi PW

Where does controller get temp from is it attached to BT module? After update dont know if i lost it or need to check wire on BT but no controller temp. No biggy ill never get it hot lol
 
I'm replacing the motor controller on a Chinese electric motorcycle with a qs260 hub motor. the Halls are connected but the motor acts as if it's being driven by a sensorless controller, with lots of cogging from takeoff. Has anyone else had any issues like this?
 
TorgueRPM said:
I'm replacing the motor controller on a Chinese electric motorcycle with a qs260 hub motor. the Halls are connected but the motor acts as if it's being driven by a sensorless controller, with lots of cogging from takeoff. Has anyone else had any issues like this?

By cogging I mean a lot of noise and juddering
 
It should be taking off quiet and smooth.
I would check that all hall sensors are operational and make sure the hall and phase combos are correct.

TorgueRPM said:
TorgueRPM said:
I'm replacing the motor controller on a Chinese electric motorcycle with a qs260 hub motor. the Halls are connected but the motor acts as if it's being driven by a sensorless controller, with lots of cogging from takeoff. Has anyone else had any issues like this?

By cogging I mean a lot of noise and juddering
 
Back
Top