XLD Brainpower motor controller XunLiDa

pacha0564 said:
It is possible to use the XLD controler with only the :

2 wires for battery
5 wires for Hall
3 wires for phase line motor

+ 3 throttle wires
+ 2 reverse wires

and not plug the rest of wires, could it work ?
Click to expand...

Absolutely! I went to the trouble of removing a lot of the extra wiring that I don't use, but the ones you highlight are the only ones you need to make it work. You can pretty much connect the phase and hall wires up in any order (except for making sure +5V and ground are correct on the hall connector), and it will learn how to fire them by simply connecting the green wires together temporarily (with the driven wheels off the ground, obviously, or it will take off).
 
Hello.

I would like to ask about Current limit: 13A at this controller.
The thing is this limit is seen on both 250w and 350w versions (tried to hide images under the spoiler but it didnt work):

file.php
(from this topic)

HTB1CwKfjiCYBuNkHFCcq6AHtVXa5.jpg


HTB18ChhrTlYBeNjSszcq6zwhFXaK.jpg


So having different voltage and power all have 13A current.

I've checked other manufacturers and they have the next specs:

24v/250w = 13A
24v/350w = 15A
24v-36v/350w = 16A-18A
36v-48v/350w = 16A-18A

I want to buy the one from the last image and wondering how could it be 13A?
I know P = UxI = 24x13 = 312 so its more like 300w? Plus, like I shown 250w version also has the same 13A limit.
So maybe this limit is set to meet some regulation and could actually be unlocked?
What do you think?

Thanks
 
Could also simply be marketing. Make the same product and stick labels on it for 250w for sale in areas where that's the max limit, stick a 350w label on one that goes to a different area. Etc.

Happens all the time with various kinds of products, including ebike motors and controllers.
 
That's what I also thought. But which figure is real 350w or 13A?
One case is that it is the same 250w product and they sell it as 350w. But another is that they show lesser current to meet some regulations and the full current can be unlocked.

Someone here owns a 350w / 13A version. So I hoped they would tell if it's real 350 or 250w in fact.
 
philf said:
OK - and one final one...

Using a variable power supply to figure out where the "real" LVC kicks in, it looks like the "auto-detecting" feature that this controller is alleged to have (auto-sensing 36 vs 48 volt operation) doesn't have any smarts behind it at all. No matter whether you feed the controller 36 or 48V, the LVC trips at 33V - and doesn't release until voltage gets back to 35V. Not really useful if you were genuinely running this thing at 36V. Does anybody really DO that?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the LVC tips....they are great for increasing LVC, but not applicable for DECREASING LVC to 30V.
I'm Running my XLD 1000W controller at 36V with a Q128C motor. Works great. However as you have discovered the battery cutoff is low at 33V though. I'm leaving about 3-to-5% battery capacity on the table because of this. I will be modding (with another resistor placed in parralell) one of the voltage-splitter resistors (next to the four voltage selection jumpers?) to bring LVC down to 3.0v.
PS: Controller can be had for $14 now. That is a screaming deal IMO given it's performance/construction I have observed.
PSS: It is NOT sign wave....its a kind of stepped waveform similar to trapazoid that adds additional voltage step-downs/ups to smoothout waveform. Motor is VERY quiet with this controller and I am quite happy.....my trike-build has met my goal for stealthiness using this controller.
sine wave.jpg
 
I bought 3 xld brainpower motor controllers. I hooked up all to test
Them out. 2 checked out . The
Third one would not run. There was no ground associated with the
5v on the hall or throttle. Checked
The board l saw no visual problem. Does anyone have any
Ideas.
Ccm
 
If there's no ground wire then you just have to add one. All of the ground points in the controller on that corner of the board are probably the same, so you should be able to run a wire from any of them to the ground on the throttle.

Similarly, if the wire is present but simply broken, you can just replace it the same way.
 
pullin-gs said:
I'm Running my XLD 1000W controller at 36V with a Q128C motor. Works great. However the battery cutoff is high at 33.5V though. I'm leaving about 3-to-5% battery capacity on the table because of this. I will be modding one of the voltage-splitter resistors (next to the four voltage selection jumpers?) to bring LVC down to 30v.
PS: Controller can be had for $14 now. That is a screaming deal IMO given it's performance/construction I have observed.
PSS: It is NOT sign wave....its a kind of stepped waveform similar to trapazoid that adds additional voltage step-downs/ups to smoothout waveform. Motor is VERY quiet with this controller and I am quite happy.....my trike-build has met my goal for stealthiness using this controller.
sine wave.jpg
Click to expand...

Success!!
I replaced the 2.0K resistor (see end of tweezers) with a 2.2K resistor. That lowered LVC to 31v.
Since I'm running this controller at only half it's rated capacity, I went ahead and removed it from the huge aluminu heat-sink case and made a much tighter fitting aluminum enlosure. Much smaller now. I'll shrink it and the battery together as a single unit that can be removed from trike for riding without e-power or safely storing the LIPO pack.

Lower LVC to 30v.jpg
 
Hello,
Saw all replys. Can i use it on bldc motor with no hall sensor? will connecting green wires(intel learning) help?
 
Yes, the controller will work without connecting to hall sensors. When I ran may motor without connecting sensors, it runs pretty rough when starting up from a stop though.
 
Improve take-off from start, just pedal hard. :)
Once you get moving you will be fine for acceleration and climbs.
 
philf said:
The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal.

The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Short black to white and you get full speed.

The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.
Click to expand...

Hi there everyone !

I just received a brainpower motor controller from China, kind of an exact replica similar to the one decribed here by philf, except it is 500W 24vdc.

For your info: I am using the controller to run a 400W 24vdc brushless motor, rotating a 50:1 gear box, which drives a sprocket and chain assembly, ultimatly driving 4 acme screws (1½" dia. ) lifting a 20' long pop top on our special self-designed and built 4x4 RV truck cell.

So, my basic needs are: forward/reverse and full speed. I plugged it following philf instructions and it works fine, except for the "full speed" of the 3-speed control. It does work with "reduced speed" when I short black and grey wires (as described in the quote above), but there is no difference whether I short the black and white or not.

For the record: I opened the controller and check continuity of the wires to k1 and k2, and both wires are properly connected. Also, since I didn't need any throttle action, I use its red and white wires on a swich as the starting action of the motor.

If anyone can help me, i would be very happy to have full speed on the motor. Any ideas ?

Thanks,

Davy
 
I also observed no difference in speed when I bridged high-speed wire vs leaving connection open. Both my 1000W controllers behave this way.
 
pullin-gs said:
I also observed no difference in speed when I bridged high-speed wire vs leaving connection open. Both my 1000W controllers behave this way.
Click to expand...

Thanks pullin-gs for this quick answer. I'll wait to see if philpf observed a real difference with his own controller or not. If not, will consider the controller has 2 speeds instead of 3 :roll:
 
Has anyone used the "Brainpower " brand in sensorless? Trying to get a backup for the existing 36/48v 350w controller that is driving my PL350 BionX motor that I salvaged from when I worked there.

Also, I saw someone saying that the controller was going cheap? Not sure if links are allowed but maybe point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance

Tom
 
tomboalogo said:
Has anyone used the "Brainpower " brand in sensorless? Trying to get a backup for the existing 36/48v 350w controller that is driving my PL350 BionX motor that I salvaged from when I worked there.

Also, I saw someone saying that the controller was going cheap? Not sure if links are allowed but maybe point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance

Tom
Click to expand...

Controller was as cheap as $14. Now best price is about $25.
You can run sensorless if you like. When I ran my sensored motor (with sensors disconnected) it learned/worked OK, but startups were a little rough though.
 
Ok thanks. I'm assuming you mean rough from zero just using throttle. My existing controller is fine with PAS sensor to startup. I don't have any halls and I find that these motors run quieter sensorless.

It has a LCD output but I can't find from the vendor what LCD is compatible. There's a serial data out but no information otherwise. Seems to be 300 baud but other than that I have no more info.

It's still $16.77 CAD (350w 36/48v eBay )

Looking for something that gives me some adjustments. When I barely pedal I get 42km/h which doesn't help my fitness.

Again thanks for the verification.

Tom
 
lesboubous said:
pullin-gs said:
I also observed no difference in speed when I bridged high-speed wire vs leaving connection open. Both my 1000W controllers behave this way.
Click to expand...

Thanks pullin-gs for this quick answer. I'll wait to see if philpf observed a real difference with his own controller or not. If not, will consider the controller has 2 speeds instead of 3 :roll:
Click to expand...

No word yet on this? I have the KSEKL53 1500w and no difference when black and white get shorted. I’m hoping I haven’t seen top speed yet with this controller.
 
Hi,
I bought recently à xld brainpower motor controller 48V 1000W.

And as i connect the electric Lock cable to the + battery , the voltage drops rapidly to 0V. I repeted the operation with no succes...what could be the reason??
Thanks
Mike
 
Hi, I have a Brainpower model KSLZ05 been working fine till one day I connected the power around the wrong way and BANG!! disappointed I pulled it out of the case to find a looped piece of metal lose inside So replaced this with a of wire loop and when back together I found I had a tone more power this bike I built was now pulling the front wheel of the ground lots of acceleration power I was having a TON of fun with it able to scramble it around in grass fields and off road for around 3 weeks then one day it just died when I switched it on, :confused: have since found out 2 mosfet's have burnt out :( . So not wanting to go back to the slow slack power it had before I ordered a much more powerfull controller 450watt 22A (Brainpower) way bigger unit this one is good but still caint do what the prev one was doing :( (about the bike it has 12" rear wheel with 24v 350watt hub motor
file.php

I really want to get this fun power back any Idea on what I can do?
 

Attachments

  • brainpower.jpg
    brainpower.jpg
    221 KB · Views: 14,363
mazdadrags said:
I pulled it out of the case to find a looped piece of metal lose inside So replaced this with a of wire loop and when back together
Click to expand...
THat was your current-sensing shunt.

If you replace it with just a wire, the controller can no longer detect how much current is flowing, so it cannot limit current and protect itself, your motor, and your battery from abuse they cant' handle.

It's possble you were drawing dozens to hundreds of amps, depending on the load and your battery's limitations before it shuts itself off (if it has a BMS--if it doesn't, then it'll try to provide whatever you ask of it, as it's voltage sags and it's cells heat up more and more, creating the potential for a fire).

So to get the same kind of "fun power" you may need a much larger controller, and probably a bigger motor and battery, so they will survive the power it's allowing.
 
Mikeblaf said:
And as i connect the electric Lock cable to the + battery , the voltage drops rapidly to 0V. I repeted the operation with no succes...what could be the reason??
Click to expand...
THe battery is either unable to handle the current draw, or has cells too low (not charged enough, unbalanced) to allow safe battery operation, so the BMS is shutting down.

First thing to try is leaving your battery on the charger for hours, days, or even weeks, so it will rebalance, if that's what's wrong.

ALternately you can open it up and measure all the cell voltages. THere are a lot of battery troubleshooting threads, and bike problems threads, with first posts that start pretty much like yours, that show details of this kind of testing and variuos kinds of fixes.
 
Interesting thanks for your info,. Its just cheap fun bike so cain't afford to go Lithium battery's yet Im just using sealed AGM batts. I have upgraded the controller to this Larger Brainpower unit It does give a good kick but cant pull the front wheel off the ground :( , Other issue with this large controller is that it maxes out at 24km/h and this wheel is capable of getting to 28~30km/h so that is bit frustrating has some kind of top speed limiter built in.
 
Hi, I've just purchase and install the xld 48v/1000w controller and need some assistance. Everything wire up, tested and working however when I do full throttle within a few second the controller shut off completely. The only way to power it on is to unplug the battery and plugging it in again. Does anyone know what the issue is or where I can troubleshoot?

1. I have a controller that came with the brushless kit that did not do this with the same battery pack
2. I've notice that the volt meter goes from 3 bar down to 2 bar before it shuts off..this is on a full battery pack
3. Battery pack is 13s at 10Ah

I need this controller because of the low/high brake line since I am using it on a handcycle that I cannot retrofit a disc brake system due to limited space...

Any help would be really appreciated, thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
XLD brainpower motor controller repair
Replies
13
Views
1,603
ransome
R
F
XLD Brainpower motor controller XunLiDa
Replies
0
Views
788
Florin
F
E-HP
    • Like
DIY Newb FAQ?
Replies
20
Views
2,355
neptronix
neptronix
M
ZKC3615KA Brushed DC Hub Motor Controller
Replies
0
Views
1,020
Mad Professor
M
Back
Top