Light dirt bike, QS 120 70h motor, custom steel frame

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first test went well
 
Nice build I'll be doing the dnm mod I'll be following from a distance.
 
Overclocker said:
trazor said:
Congatulations! after all those years, finally, a complete LEV! :thumb:
Keep practicing and post a video!


haha thanks! this project took way too long :lol: might take another year to get it painted :lol:

[youtube]sgkiock4p9M[/youtube]

Looks good!. The only thing I don't like are the footrests that are common bike pedals. If you plan to ride hard you will crash sooner or later and those will bend. Motorcycle footrests with spring are the solution. I use these for my bikes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWVT96I/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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haha i was looking at the same thing! but blue

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i actually don't mind bending those cheapo pedals. but they might deform the frame during a crash. so yes i'll be switching to pegs soon. will add a bolt-on mounting plate here

also the 17" rear tire seems small. there's clearance for 18" but that'll add more weight and reduce the torque...

lastly, my cheapo 42A controller is weak :lol: motor never gets more than 43 degrees C. need a stronger one ASAP. was thinking of getting a Kelly KLS6022H (variable regen capable)
 
Overclocker said:
vyME3vg.jpg


haha i was looking at the same thing! but blue

O6fWxf6.jpg


i actually don't mind bending those cheapo pedals. but they might deform the frame during a crash. so yes i'll be switching to pegs soon. will add a bolt-on mounting plate here

also the 17" rear tire seems small. there's clearance for 18" but that'll add more weight and reduce the torque...

lastly, my cheapo 42A controller is weak :lol: motor never gets more than 43 degrees C. need a stronger one ASAP. was thinking of getting a Kelly KLS6022H (variable regen capable)

I'm very happy with the Kelly KBS line. Maybe I'm not right... if I remember correctly skeetab user tried a KLS controller on BHT/BigBlock and those have problems with hall sensor signals. Maybe I'm recalling this wrong, but do your research.
 
The BHT runs nice on the KLS or KBS series

but the LRHDD does not run on the KLS series, had to buy a KBS controller for that bike tried every solution I saw on this forum to resolve the distorted hall signal and failed

excellent progress btw! great job on the build. My Kuberg bike didn't feel right when I had a small 17" rear wheel from the voloci on it either, it handled fine and ripped but just seemed off, went with 18" from Eastgem and seems better overall, you can always change a sprocket for ratio to be same
 
skeetab5780 said:
The BHT runs nice on the KLS or KBS series

but the LRHDD does not run on the KLS series, had to buy a KBS controller for that bike tried every solution I saw on this forum to resolve the distorted hall signal and failed

excellent progress btw! great job on the build. My Kuberg bike didn't feel right when I had a small 17" rear wheel from the voloci on it either, it handled fine and ripped but just seemed off, went with 18" from Eastgem and seems better overall, you can always change a sprocket for ratio to be same


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thanks! btw i taped a temp sensor to the outside case of the motor. i'm hitting 53 deg C when bogged down in the sand...

i know you've fried quite a few motors like that denzel :lol: how far do you think can we push this little BHT? a Kelly KLS6022H is probably just right, you think?
 
Are you monitoring temps inside the motor? By the time the heat soaks through to the case it could be way too late for the windings.

Great job on the bike build by the way!
 
Nice build!

perhaps you can mode your controller shunt it is described there very good

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71128

I get around 100 Amp out

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=96858

but i dont now waht your battery does
 
DanGT86 said:
Are you monitoring temps inside the motor? By the time the heat soaks through to the case it could be way too late for the windings.

Great job on the bike build by the way!

I agree with that. I've fixed the temperature sensor (the same as the picture, with the remote display) inside the motor, on the windings with JB weld like epoxy. These motors can raise and lower temperatures very quickly, not like you see on hubs. I don't think that the sensor on the case will have enough feedback for you to pull back if the motor is at overheat temperature.

The mod is easy, you make a hole in the rubber that is kind of gasket in the cable when entering the motor, about 3mm and pass the wire of the sensor through (you have to cut it and re-solder after)
 
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will do the shunt mod ASAP and also the temp probe on the windings. if power is still inadequate and there's still some thermal headroom i'll probably get the kelly controller

speaking of thermal headroom. what's the safe max temp of the windings?

BTW that's a yuyangking cheapo controller
 
Overclocker said:
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will do the shunt mod ASAP and also the temp probe on the windings. if power is still inadequate and there's still some thermal headroom i'll probably get the kelly controller

speaking of thermal headroom. what's the safe max temp of the windings?

BTW that's a yuyangking cheapo controller

My temperature meter shows "Hi" above 115 Celsius. I try to stop before that, not more than 100 C, but is easy to pass that, a matter of seconds. The Denzel kit D4500 comes with a temperature sensor and a Kelly controller with a cut off of 120C. I think that is the maximum temperature common windings/enamel/magnets can take safely.
 
[youtube]Qgx0rt-1LCw[/youtube]

i should not have procrastinated w/ the sensor install. i would've seen that the yellow phase wire was rubbing against the rotor. eventually the insulation and copper wire wore off and started acting like brushes, hence the scorch marks

quality on this BHT motor is really crap :lol:
 
Overclocker said:
[youtube]Qgx0rt-1LCw[/youtube]

i should not have procrastinated w/ the sensor install. i would've seen that the yellow phase wire was rubbing against the rotor. eventually the insulation and copper wire wore off and started acting like brushes, hence the scorch marks

quality on this BHT motor is really crap :lol:

Bummer :(
The BHT motors are being sold again (after a long time of unavailability). https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLDC-MID-MOTOR-BRUSHLESS-48-72V-500-3000W-QUAD-CAR-TRICYCLE/192649924278

For the price I think the Denzel 4500 has more copper, but will require other mount design.
The next time open the motor and take a view and install the temp sensor asap. On my LR BB and D4500 nothing was out of place, but you can feel how these aren't quality checked to high standards.
 
Superb build. I am motivated now. Love your swing arm. Consider it stolen. Soon you please find it on my build :D
 
Did you paint the frame or is it powdercoat? Looks nice :thumb:
 
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still need to tidy up the wiring. then add yellow and red graphics to the battery box to match the color scheme of the fork. etc

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then i found this lightweight 17" rim. so together w/ 12-gauge spokes should reduce weight as well as be a better match for the flange thickness of my hub (btw the sur-ron uses 12g spokes). unfortunately the rim drilled for 10g spokes so i'll have to use conical washers
 
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